chasinthemirage

Have you still got this @Sunbeam?

Hmm just seems like a bit of a gamble based on what I've been reading eh. Really trying to avoid anything with isocyanates so enamel seems like a better compromise durability wise.

I've sold my Fairmont Ghia so have a small amount of money that I can put towards this thing. Been looking into painting it myself using an oil based enamel, I'm aware that this is an old method and less than ideal but I don't really want to mess around with 2k due to the fact I have a long beard and accordingly respirators in my price range won't seal. While poking around tonight I've found some more rust under the factory seam sealer. From what I can see the seam where the panels overlap is not swelling but I'm sure theres still corrosion there. I'm sure the proper fix for this is to drill out the spot welds and repair/replace the gutter but this is beyond my skillset. If I were to mechanically remove as must of the rust as I can physically access, spot weld and grind back the pinholes and then primer/seam seal/fill/topcoat, would this prolong the rust for any significant amount of time? Bearing in mind the car will be living in the garage and hopefully not getting rained on too often. I'm aware this is less than ideal but money is tight and I really would like to get this thing back on the road.

This is what I want to hear tbh. Always reassuring getting real world feedback. Is oil based enamel as nasty as 2k? What's required PPE wise? Looks a little easier to manage from my Google searches but want to make sure I'm not missing anything. Anything to be aware of compatibility wise as far as products like brunox rust converter or body fillers with enamel? Paint supplier I spoke to before stocks Pacer PE lightweight body filler but she wasn't sure on its compatibility with the enamel.

Ashamed to be asking this tbh but, brush/roller painting a car. Is this possible with something like enamel tractor paint? I'm aware it'd mean a tonne more sanding to get a reasonable finish but at the moment I'm able to make time available for the project a lot easier than money. How plausible/completely stupid is this idea?

Thanks gentlemen, I've learnt something today. Had no idea the eyes absorbed stuff so well. Think I'll swing down to the paint supplier and see what sort of deal they can do on paint and PPE.

@Nominal do you know what 1K is like longevity wise? Very mixed reviews on the internet but some of that may be based on 1K spray cans.

Can someone educate me on automotive paint types plz? Kinda keen to have a jam at painting a car myself but a little apprehensive about the PPE and equipment (mainly the PPE side of it) that's required when using 2k paint. From my Googling it seems that a lot of the smaller 3M type half respirators aren't suitable for 2k and I haven't got the budget for a supplied air system. What's the minimum requirement for safely spraying 2k? Had a wee encounter with a poorly sealed mask once upon a time and would like to avoid a repeat of this. Failing 2K being an option, are there any other paint types out there that would be a suitable alternative for spraying a car that's likely going to spend most of its life garaged when not being driven? My main concern is keeping it weatherproof and rust free for as long as practically possible rather than having a showcar finish. Happy to have a jam at it myself at the risk of the odd run etc if it means it can be usable again without having to fork out thousands.

Piiiiine. Good work man! How does it shoot?

Righto so I've decided to call time on this. Have it up on marketplace currently and will likely put on trademe next time there's free selling. Reg still on hold, motor rebuilt, oversized pistons, valves, cam reground etc. Gearbox has had new bearings put through it. Needs paint and upholstery, was running and driving before I stripped it so I think the important stuff should all be there. Will come with a few spares I've held onto over the years also, spare lights, dash bits etc. Flick me a pm if you're interested.

Had the rust in the rear guards of my wagon repaired 6 weeks ago. Noticed this in the paint this morning when I drove it to work. Bubbles are soft when you push on them with your finger nail, assuming this is moisture ingress from the back/inside of the panel? I'd imagine that a reaction with filler etc would have occoured faster? What are my options here? Going to contact the bloke that did the work but want to know what I can do the prevent this happening in the future. Image is of the worst of it but there's other spots all along where the repairs where done.

Just when you think you've seen it all OS pulls another one out of the bag. Looking forward to seeing how this turns out!

Thanks mate, nah just a sky blue from Bunnings that I thought looked good. Oh man awesome thank you, I'll watch some videos and get in touch at some point. What did you use PPE wise? I've got a long beard so looks like I'll probably need to buy/borrow a PAPR. Also what where the seams between the panels like on yours? Mine have a bit of rusty staining, the guy that did the panel work was talking about splitting the seams to clean them up which seems like an enormous amount of work. Sweet, thanks man. I haven't got much budget at the moment but I'll flick you a message if I decide it's too much to paint it myself.

Hey @yetchh not a lot really. I pushed it outside a few months ago and rattle canned a couple of panels to get an idea of what it'd look like but it's been sitting in the shed since then. Still needs paint but I don't know where to start with doing it myself. I did have it up for sale for awhile but I've been a bit too sentimental to let it go.

Sweet, thanks @CUL8R will flick him a message.