chasinthemirage

Where did he buy them from? Steering wheel controls can be a nuisance to sort. If he's got parts from Repco etc tell him to send them back and contact Formula. Formula.co.nz are distributors/importers for most of that stuff and are pretty clued up on what's required.

Probably not, fella is selling it because it doesn't get used. It's had the brakes redone at some point reasonably recently too so may still need to bed in a little I guess. Be interesting to see how they'd go with some more fettling.

Vehicle in question is an Austin A30 so very similar as I understand it? Yeah old guy reckons it'll cruise at 55mph but I can't see the brakes doing much at that speed. I certainly wasn't popping a vein but was definitely applying more pressure than I would ordinarily. Tbf I'd just hopped out of a 2012 Corolla and I haven't driven anything old in a long time. Seemed to pull up pretty straight which is about all you can probably ask for really.

Any of you jokers have cars with unboosted drum brakes? Just test drove a vehicle with hydraulic front drums and mechanical rears. Seemed to stop okay but needed a decent amount of pedal pressure to get it to do so. How normal is this? 1950s British vehicle so I assume shit brakes are probably normal/as good as it gets.

Alrighty dumb question time, been a very long time since I've bought a set of steel wheels for a vehicle so please forgive the dumb questions. What's the go with stud protrusion/thread engagement and where the rims contact the hub? The studs produde about 15mm through the rim but there's a reasonable amount of wheel nut not engaging with the stud, maybe slightly less than half of the nut? Studs are M12x1.5. Wheel nuts are open ended so maybe it looks worse than it is? There's probably tonnes of trucks getting about with the same thing going on. I'm also concerned about where the rim contacts the hub, looks like the outside of the rim mating surface is contacting the hub rather than the flat face around the studs. Is this correct? Hopefully I haven't just bought wheels that don't fit.

Boys at work still solder and heatshrink pretty much everything. I've heard mixed reviews of those heatshrink/solder thingies. Usually try to steer people away from them tbh. Tidy solder job and some fabric tape or braided sleeve is the go I reckon.

@cletus thank you that's good to know! Will make sure I'm very careful to check everything matches if I do end up buying it. Assume if it doesn't match then it's either put it back to as on the declaration or just get it certified? Probably easier to just get cert and be done with it tbh though. What's your opinion on the headlight placement? Would you have issues if a vehicle was bought to you having had the front clip swapped? As far as I'm aware it's all a straight swap with factory components. I potentially have a couple of leads on an early series 2 front end so shouldn't be too much drama to convert back to original if I buy it.

I've clearly not had my fill of suffering in my life because I'm looking at purchasing a 1965 Land Rover Series 2a. Been a long time since I've bought a modified vehicle so I have some q's: It's been fitted with a Holden 186 and is on paper declaration rather than cert. Are these still valid provided that the vehicle matches the paper? Curently has WOF and reg and is on original plates. 9Is there anything that I need to look out for with declarations? As far as I'm aware NZTA have copies of some of these but not all. At this stage I don't know if the paper is the original or a photocopy, unsure if this matters. Also, it's a 1965 model so I believe it would have had headlamps in the radiator panel from factory. It currently has headlamps in the wings per late 2a's/3's etc. I'd like to change it back to original spec, is this something that would require cert/should it be on the declaration paper?

Yeah seen heaps of people running significantly more offset but also seen a lot of others whinging about ball joints failing prematurely etc so hard to know. Worst case I guess I'll just buy something with less offset down the track if I have too many issues.

Looking at buying some wheels for my KZJ95 Prado, what are people's thoughts on offset? Stock wheels are 16x7 Et15, looking at going to a 16x8 Et0. How much extra load is this likely to place on wheel bearings, ball joints etc? Enough to be worth worrying about in practice? Inside of the rim will be pretty close to the same place but obviously the outside will be further out so I assume this will move the centre of pressure out a bit also? Didn't have too many issues with my KZN130 but that was so long ago that I can't remember what offset the wheels on that were.

Looks great on the black wheels I reckon! How's the house? Not too damaged I hope!

I was in full pine over Disco's too but settled on a KZJ95 instead. I have regrets tbh.

Ah right, I didn't realize that the heads were different. Yeah AJ16 makes more sense in that case then.

Is there anything in particular that makes the XK engines so inefficient? Would some head work and a basic EFI system net some economy gains? I know you're looking to avoid wiring which is fair tbh but maybe that would be less overall work than an engine swap?

Yes plz for Jag thread. Have a few of these on my watchlist currently