yetchh

Members
  • Content Count

    4,373
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

yetchh last won the day on August 27 2014

yetchh had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

6,027 Excellent

About yetchh

  • Rank
    Is Abrasive
  • Birthday 22/05/1976

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling

Converted

  • Local Area
    Christchurch

Recent Profile Visitors

2,714 profile views
  1. Oh... By the way, Finally had the abortion removed and replaced with clean timber... So fucken good.
  2. Last week I went and got some 300x25mm treated boxing to fill in between the uprights. Did this bit first to find the height roughly at where the multiple access gates will sit with three planks, there's also a little 100mm filler above the the planks. You can see here at the bottom where the found sticks out. All this will be stained dark along with the found so I don't think it'll be seen. This corner will have gates both sides as its the designated hut/dugout. This whole corner of the house will have an access gate every bay as its the "living" side. Around the other side and opposite ends they'll just be every second bay. Its all a bit of overkill, but when you walk around the neighbourhood and see that most people just have cement board, and it's generally inside the line of the cladding, it looks shit. I was gonna put stone around the bottom but the cbf factor took over. This should look a bit better than the norm.
  3. Used an offcut to mark what height to cut the uprights for the cap. Gave 2-3mm under the shadowclad for any water that somehow manages to get in there.
  4. Started on closing in the subfloor finally. Attached the uprights with joist cleats as I had a box left over from the house build, based the rest of the house on what I worked out here, as I got around the other side I discovered the foundation is out by about 20mm, not bothered tho as it'll be planted around that side. Made some frames up to go between the uprights. They get bolted through them and also down onto the concrete. Prob a bit over engineered.
  5. Case has checked and machined, good to go. Just been waiting on some things to arrive.. Which they did. Crank flywheel and pulley are in being balanced. Took the case back in so they could check the main bearings. Have to clearance the case for the stroker crank, cam comes clearanced out of the box but I'll check it all anyway. Also need to do a small amount of port work, mainly to the ssr as there's a small lip and polish the ex ports, port match also. Have to balance the conrods and pistons also. Bodywork is almost done on the kombi, replaced a fair bit of metal which is good just have to decide wether to go shabby or chic with paint. Bit of work to do in between trying to finish the house..
  6. Hey bro, what size are the throttles on the injection body?
  7. Great mini meat.. Good to catch up, been too long.
  8. Fucken ow.. Gave me four weeks at 87% but I'll be going back to work next week probs. On light duties.
  9. yetchh

    PAINT THREAD

    Yeah, they don't get too hot.. Have done blocks in enamel before and they seemed to hold up ok, my guess was epoxy trumps everything else..
  10. yetchh

    PAINT THREAD

    My guess is this has been queried somewhere along the line but searching just brings up engine bays. Looking to paint the magnesium engine case for the kombi. Vht eventually falls off, what would be a better option? Epoxy or is that overkill for a block..
  11. This is obviously how it would look sans silicone. I try to keep the popsicle stick on the same plane as the tiles that way it leaves a minimal bump in the silicone line when you run from one tile to the next. Then once I've done my first pass (respraying soapy water with every pass) I go over again with a tighter angle on the pop stick, smaller line is better. Looks like this... You only get one chance with this otherwise you make a mess cleaning it out now with meths or wait till it dries and cut it out. Saturate your finger with the soapy water and another spray on the bead and lightly run your finger along the entire length to smooth out any ridges and it should come out looking like this. 10% of the time it doesn't go as I planned or I fuck something up but you get about 5-8mins to play with it then it skins up. Sometimes you can still smooth it even though it's skinned. You end up with a pile of silicone grubs, bit of wastage but meh. That makes this bit done.
  12. Actually, this makes it done. Went with a black silicone to try and match the grout but it made the line to obvious being that it's twice the size of the tile gap So I cut it back out and went with a dark grey (anthracite) what follows is how I silicone tiles and /or most other things that need a silicone join. First I cut the nozzle so it's large enough to get a bead slightly bigger than the joint in trying to seal. Make sure that I overfill it so when I put water /soap on it everything I want to seal has clean contact with the silicone as once the water goes on it won't stick to anything. Then using a popsical stick (coz they're round, wood and a good excuse to get a popsical) that's been soaked in the soapy water, I run it along the bead far enough that I don't end up with an unmanageable blob of silicone on the stick (normally about 200mm) Circulars are a good for wiping excess silicone of onto.. In this case a lint chocolate bar wrapper.
  13. Glued on (yes, with silicone again. Makes good glue) the last of the trims Tape does a good job of holding most things wood orientated. This is a classic example of my wobbly walls, just on bench height it was about 7mm, here it's about 3 but as I'm 6'5 it's pretty much only me that can see it. It's good having my miter saw calibrated right after 13 years of ownership. And that makes that bit done. Still have to do some shelving around the fridge and the laundry. Need to change it up tho otherwise the cbf factor skyrockets.
  14. Stuck the mirror on, previously it just had three mounts on the back that corresponded with the screws on the wall, was removable. I didn't want to make permanent drill holes in the tiles so I glued the mirror to the tiles with mirror silicone (don't use anything else) The tape is used just to stop the mirror going anywhere while the glue dries, could probably just use the tape as it holds 16kg per something. It's fucken sticky anyway. Made 6mm timber packers painted with bathroom acrylic paint, tape and glue both don't stick to plastic packed very well. Then put glue on the original mounting points and strategically placed packers glued both sides. Sorry no pics so here's the glue.