Goat

@dmulally To register, You will need proof of ownership (this can just be a stat dec signed by JP) and proof of previous registration. The latter can be the hard part if it was de-reg before digitization of records in the 90s. If you have old ownership papers or something, that should be enough. If not, you'll need to plead your case and apply for "Alternative documents form" (CA03), Basically you send all the info you have to NZTA and they kinda give you the yay or neigh as to if it can be registered. If they say yes, then you just go into a compliance center and quote the number you get from NZTA and its all hunkey dory. (They basically give permission for the entry cert inspector to enter the vehicle details in landata database)> From then on its and expensive wof check. Need to complete brake declaration too (basically saying the brakes are mint, inspec, and safe) And pay for plates. But yeah, proving previous NZ registration can be a pain. Might be even more involved for heavy vehicles. All details here outlying what will pass for proof of ownership (entitlement to register), and proof of NZ registration: https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/entry-certification/i-and-c/required-documentation-and-registration/re-registering-a-vehicle#tab2 Unfortunately this can only be done at a compliance center. I don't think Masterton does compliance anymore? Porirua VTNZ still does. But yeah, can be hard, as even the compliance people often don't know the rules and its hard (impossible) to get a list of what they actually need to see out of them!!

If you are not welding to the actual cast hub, but are just welding on a spring perch and shortening the strut body to take a different insert then you can get a non destructive test (ndt) crack test. This is just a powder they put over the welds and shine a light on it. Only cost me 30 or 40 bux (over 10 years ago!) and got a piece of paper saying they were all good. If you need to weld to cast, thats a no go. (here in NZ anyway) A lot of kits get you to weld to cast, so as long as its not one of them, you are likely good to go. Also, should move this thread to the Cert questions thread.

I can collect and ferry around if youd like

Shit yes. Good score and good save. Can't wait to see this go back together!

https://www.police.govt.nz/can-you-help-us/stolen-vehicles

Will swap for ironhead. haha

Finally got this finished. All legal. Taken it for a few rips. Super fun. So small and light. Oh so narrow: For sale now. As I enjoy the journey more than the destination. Already neck deep in another build.

Only got big bikes that go at the moment. hah. Need to build my f5/yb100 pest bike up. These multi day missions greatly appeal to me. Will put my name down for next year. Gives me 50 weeks to do nothing, then 2 weeks to build a bike and commit to a ride with zero testing. perfect.

Epic. Thanks dude! Will plan a mish up to collect in the next month and a half!

@Vintage Grumble Woops, had forgotten about that. @anglia4 Its a gs550 engine. That would be awesome if you could hold onto it. I can do a trip up to collect over the chrismas hols if that's not too far away. Otherwise i can figure something out sooner.

Remove the arm and custom pour some poly bushings? I'd say any different arms would need cert (unless its factory off another non AU marina or something and would look stock (would probably need a cert anyway but nobody would notice except Bryan. haha))

Just pulled the trigger on a xcel arc viper 185 from supercheap's 20% off sale. Will report back with a review once i've pumped out some bird poop.

Shit yes! Series 7 is the prettiest of them all! Fingers crossed its an easy fix to get it running sweet.

What/how do people prep cavities when doing patch panels. I.e. say i wanted to do a repair on a sill, and cut out a 100x200 patch. What/how do i treat the inner sill I can get to through the new hole, and what/how do i treat the back of the patch i'm about to weld in?

I've always used the vice for rough and ready folding of patches, though that leaves an average finish. Stretcher/shrinker will be great for recreating slightly curved boot lips etc. Where i've just michael moused that before and welded along the right angle (which makes for a bit of an average repair)