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About Adoom

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  • Birthday 21/07/1981

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  1. Adoom's 1972 Triumph 2000

    Also discovered that Silvia wheel stud thread pitch does not match any of the wheel nuts in my drawer of wheelnuts. Think they might be 12X1.25 or something. Anyone wrecking a 90's rwd/awd nissan something(afaik they are all the same) and can knock out the subframe mounting studs for me? They are pressed in like wheel studs. You need to cut a hole in the panel behind the stud so you can get it out.
  2. Adoom's 1972 Triumph 2000

    Snip snip snip. Moved the subframe back so the wheel hub is in the factory location. Still need to work out if the subframe is high enough. There is a clearance issue for the top rear arm which means there is only about 20mm of upwards travel from what seems like a good lower than std ride height. Making more clearance does not look too hard. I was thinking that the front mounts hang a bit low, so thought the subframe might need to be higher. But then I measured the std front mounts on the white triumph and they hang down just as far but are more outboard.... Still not decided yet. There is room at the front and above the top/front arms to raise it about 40mm without cutting. You can see the temporary bit of angle to show where the diff mount cross member needs to go. Lots of room for it. Even if the subframe is raised further.
  3. Adoom's 1972 Triumph 2000

    So I welded a temporary bit of metal for the front diff mount cross member, so I can trial fit and see how much space there is available for the cross member. I put some bits of wood on a wheeled dolly and 3 scissor jacks for raising and leveling the subframe under the car. As it is now, the subframe is wedged in there, and level, and I think the height is okay so I don't get crazy camber when the car is at ride height. But, it needs to move 90mm further back, which will give me lots of room at the front, I won't need the two holes I have already cut. But I will need to extend that existing box section further into the boot space. Fortunately, there doesn't appear to be anything stopping me from doing this. I may still even be able to fit the spare wheel! See I have marked where the wheel hub is on top of the arch, and where it needs to be. This isn't full suspension droop, one of the braces on my jig is in the way of a suspension arm moving any further. Aaaaaand with the subframe 90mm further back, the shock mount on the back of the hub is directly below the shock mount on the body. Hopefully I can find/make some coilovers that will fit in the available space. I'd like to avoid making the existing shock 'towers' larger because then I would have to also modify the fuel tank as it is a tight fit between the shock towers. The rear subframe mounts are hard up against the existing box section. I have already removed the original mounts/studs from the box section to get the subframe up this high. Once it moves 90mm further back, there will be plenty of clearance for that front/top arm mounts so the hole is not required. Not visible in the photo, but there will also be ample room for the diff mount cross member. Not sure how to make the mounting point for the front mount. Ideas so far are: strengthen the floor with plates and build a mount point down from the floor. Or make another box section/outrigger to support the subframe mounting point. Here's another picture of that existing box section. The red line is where the bottom of the existing box section is under the car. The blue box is where the 'new' rear part of the boot floor would be so the subframe can move 90mm further back. I need to think about how to best make 'whatever' that the subframe rear mounts will attach to.
  4. Adoom's 1972 Triumph 2000

    Filled in this gap. Still needs to be double skinned on the backside, as per original. And need to cut a hole for a large diameter tube for the rear mount.
  5. Adoom's 1972 Triumph 2000

    So on Friday I went to Pick a Part, on my break, to get a pile of $12 scissor jacks to use for positioning/levelling the subframe when it comes time to trial fit it to the car. I'll have to make a box or something to put under the jacks cause the yellow car(I'm using it for the trial fitting/cutting) is way up in the air. While at Pick a Part I found a Stagea, which has the same diff(wrong ratio) that I am using, but it has the driveshafts I need, specifically the inner CVs because they have the 6X1 bolt pattern for my 350Z diff. So I did a mission(and drove over the bloody 'takkas again) on Saturday morning to get them off. Could have done with a 32mm long series socket to get the.... hub nut off. But I managed to crack it with the breaker bar before I completely mangled the bit of the nut I could reach with the short socket. $64 EACH!! I'm surprised they didn't charge me separately for each bolt too. But new one's from Rock Auto would be ~$300 landed and then I still have to make custom shorter shafts. The CVs don't appear to be available separately.
  6. Adoom's 1972 Triumph 2000

    There is not much of that I think I could use. I was planning on cutting out a one-piece flange with the plasma cutter and getting some mandrels. Pass, but thanks anyway.
  7. Adoom's 1972 Triumph 2000

    Got a photo? Of the manifolds!
  8. Adoom's 1972 Triumph 2000

    Hack hack hack. Everything is now positioned where it needs to live . Still more cutting required at the back to make room for the diff mount. The way I thought of to do it is cut a big round hole, centred on the stud, and weld a bit of thick wall tubing in there to put the strength back in. I will fabricate a completely new cross member here for the front diff mounts. Modifying the original will end up so hacked about it will look shit.
  9. Adoom's 1972 Triumph 2000

    I've been keeping an eye out for a set of these in 15". Some appeared on Tardme last week and they were in driving distance to collect too. No one else bid.... so I probably paid too much. The centre needs to be gold. I wanted 15" so I can put bigger brakes on the front. I also made a start on the jig to narrow the rear subframe by 145mm. The subframe will be welded to the two inner lengths of angle. And the two outer bits of angle are parallel and welded to the bench. Once I think the subframe is sufficiently braced and welded. I will cut a section out of the middle of the two inner bits of angle. Then I will be able to chop bits out of the middle of the subframe and 'just' slide the two halves closer together while still keeping them aligned. But I ran out of mig wire. On a weekend.
  10. Adoom's 1972 Triumph 2000

    The engine is now as far back and as high as is practical, so... Hack hack hack. Don't worry, I have another. Now the cross member bolts on again and clears the sump. But the steering rack needs to be, much, lower to fit.
  11. Hurmeez' 1977 Mk2 Escort Estate

    POR15 sold the sole distribution/import rights(for AU and NZ I think) to apparently Bunnings, months ago, without telling the existing NZ distributor(PPC). AFAIK, he found out when he tried to do a stock order. I haven't seen any sign of it at Bunnings.
  12. Adoom's 1972 Triumph 2000

    So I offered the engine up. And it's tight. I have since removed the heat shield thing from the alternator and got myself a little more space. I might grind down the lug the shield bolts to too. The alternator mounts are not adjustable, it can't get closer to the block anyway. I'm going to have to make 'log' exhaust manifolds. The engine came with some shiny stainless extractors, but there's no way they will fit. I'll have to remote mount the oil filter and remove that filter housing, it's in the way of the steering rack. The major problem I have yet to solve is the front alloy part of the sump is entirely in the way of the rack. So, recently, when I have been going in the garage, I find that there are heaps of dead flies. I think they must be getting trapped and dying?
  13. Tristans 1973 Triumph 2500 PI Saloon

    What's it cost getting wheels from Japan? My thinking is that the freight alone would make for a really expensive set of wheels, so I've never looked into it....
  14. Mofs 1979 Escort Panel Van

    Why have you run a separate earth lead all the way from the back to the front of the car and not just earthed it on the body? Is it something to do with your 'hiding wiring and pipes in the engine bay'?
  15. Adoom's 1972 Triumph 2000

    This time I added the overalls and the beanie to the safety glasses, ear muffs and dust mask. So now I'm not entirely covered with tiny metal chips. So I did some more die grinding to remove the front of the white one. I left a wide strip of metal beside the seam because the donor panel is rusty there. The lighting is not the best for these photos... It took five minutes to fix the dent that was here, now that I can access the back of it. I have greatly improved the dent in the wing. Still needs work though. I used one of those abrasive pad things on the grinder to clean the paint off so the spot welds were easier to find. But I could not fit it in some places, so I used the cup brush of death. It caught the corner of a panel and pulled it self out of my hands. So I held on better.... And it caught on the same corner and ripped it self out of my hands and fell on the floor instantly eating a rag and the power lead for my heat gun then jamming before I could pull the plug out. Kinda my own fault for having a messy floor.