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About Adoom

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  • Birthday 21/07/1981

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  1. Yes. It was very effective. Especially after the tuner replaced the water with 100% E85. I think there might have been ~10 degree temp drops after the injector. But, the jets that came with the Aquamist system did not supply a consistent/repeatable amount of E85. So I replaced it with an inline fuel pump and additional injector and it was retuned. When the E85 injector was running, it reduced the 'normal' fuel at the primary injectors. It was reliable... for a few weeks/months until I took it to a track day and something failed with the E85 system. Since the ECU had no way to know there was no E85. the fuel mix went REALLY lean and shit melted. That's my story.
  2. Fiiiiiiiiiiiiine! So I linished the plates on the bench grinder to remove the slag so they would sit flush against each other. Then I lined up the teeth and clamped it together with the bolts. Then turned the tig down to 50 and ran it across the back a few times to glue them together. It bolted up okay. It's kinda works. Like it will stay up if I lift the arm. But it falls down as soon as I turn it on. It would probably help if I sharpen the little plates that engage on the teeth so they fit better.
  3. It's definitely still sitting in the small thingies drawer. I should probably finish it, over a year is probably long enough.
  4. So since the engine mounts were welded to the chassis rails. And the modified sump is back on the engine. I suppose I can put the engine back in and figure out how much I can lift the steering rack back up. Shouldn't take long.... the engine was already on the crane. So I put the engine in the hole, I put one bolt through the left engine mount because that one got there first. Just lower it a bit more and slide the right side bolt through...... huh. The hole doesn't line up. It's off by 3-4mm... Is it just the urethane? I'll try align it with a big screw driver... Nope that's didn't work. Have the chassis rails spread?! Offers up front cross member. Nope those bolt holes still line up. Did I put the engine mounts on the wrong sides after painting? Surely not. Swaps mounts around. Puts one bolt through. Other side still still doesn't line up. And engine now tilted nose down. So I suspect, that when I removed the engine, then cut the temporary tack welds to prep for fully welding the mounts, I pushed the mount plates much more snug against the chassis rails so they were further apart. Disappointed... Simplest solution I can think of is to try shim the mounts off the engine block with washers to get the holes to line up again. Then I'll weld those washers to the mount so it cannot be installed without them.
  5. Aeons ago, when I worked at Road and Track in lower hutt I got long wheel studs for my Starlet. "Nice" may have been the supplier, but afaik they came from a local stockist. Early 20's me though they were expensive at the time. Suspect it might have been ~$200 for 20. So R&T might be able to help.
  6. Fyi: howatt works from his house now, the workshop was closed when i went there last. His address is on his website. Down near waterloo.
  7. Sooo when I was chasing out all the threads I managed to put the wrong pitch M10 tap through one of the bellhousing mount holes. So had to invest in some thread repair kits. OUCH! My wallet. I got an M6 at the same time because there are some stripped threads on the gearbox. ...the gear lever retention plate thing is held down by four M6 bolts and all the holes are stripped.
  8. Finally got the sump back on. Remembered that I had another set of bolts when I bought the sump so I cleaned them up.
  9. Who needs a welder? Sorry, couldn't find it in English.
  10. WTF is an axle cross supposed to be? Do they mean the trailing arms??? They are more of an "L". How is it for rust... Battery fallen through the battery box and dangling? Rear subframe mounting points loose/broken? Broken exhaust mounts? Probably this one I reckon. Not much else under there that could make a knocking like that.
  11. So I found a local place that could anneal my sump which would allow me to pull it flat. Dymo Manufacturing in Wingate. They put it in their kiln with it bolted to the jig. It was heated up to.... hot, then allowed to cool down slowly over many hours. ~10 I think. $70. The heat seems to have baked out any oils and cooked the sealer that was still in the grooves on the mounting face. The sealer just crumbles and turns to powder when I scrape at it. Only down side was it caused some of the small M6 bolts to seize in the jig which I wasn't expecting, so I broke one and stripped at least two more. So I'll have to find some suitable bolts to bolt it back to the engine. Oops. But it's more or less flat already. So I am happy to bolt it back to the engine, the sealer will sort out any tiny gaps. Cast iron table saw top is the flattest thing I have. I did try move it around a bit, just in case the table saw top was bent. It's the same which ever way I put it. There is still a tiny gap at the front of the sump, but it's no bigger than 0.5mm and if I put some weight on it, it closes up. Yay.
  12. Adoom

    New garage toy/tool

    You got it. The top wheels are a little smaller that you have drawn. The bottom wheel is about right. I think the blade is 0.6mm