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About Adoom

  • Birthday 21/07/1981

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  1. Can't change my mind now... I also removed the spring mount and chassis rail as it gets in the way of one of suspension mounts. I'll be making a new chassis rail on the inside, that boxes in the corner between the floor and the wheel well which will wrap around to join to the sill. That will tie into the new box section between the towers and the new front subframe mounts. Those two panels either side of the spare wheel well will become chassis rails to tie the framing at the rear of the boot with the strut tower box section and have plates inside with captive nuts for towbar mounts.
  2. Liquid Nitrogen? I thought of that. I've never had the opportunity to get my hands on any. I wondered if it would work when poured onto something, does it just instantly sublimate away without doing much cooling? Every time I see something frozen with LN2 it gets submerged.
  3. Has anyone tried using dry ice to remove spray on underseal? I've used it on the sheet stuff with great success, but Triumph used a spray on product on the floor of my car. This is inside the car, not underneath.
  4. Just try reversing your 1973 mini estate with no reversing lights down an unlit winding driveway after delivering pizza to the address at night time. Is that bit of dark darker than the other dark? Yes, it's a post and you have just run into it. #oddlyspecific
  5. Made my jig rejigging jig. The big box section has two sets of holes for the studs, the original location and the narrower location. Once I bolted it to the studs, I welded some random bits of scrap to join the two jogs together. Then I could cut the mounting studs of the first jig, move them to the new position holes, weld them to the jig again, then cut the rejigging jig off. It not very exciting to look at... I got the subframe positioned in the car and bolted up to the repositioned front mounting studs. I need to think of a way to temporarily attach the strut towers and box section to the car. But it needs to be removable so I can put it in the other car and have it in exactly the same place. I'm going to guess that the position of most of the bolt holes is "close enough" and won't be the same between the two cars I'm definitely going to need a custom fuel tank.
  6. Yesterday.... Precariously balanced really heavy thing done become unbalanced and had an oopsie. I don't have a less precarious system for lifting it ~700mm into position. Scissor jacks are required for levelling. Sigheth. Well, I did need to get back in there to relocate the two front mounting studs. They need to be 50mm closer together. Fortunately, they are attached only to a bolt-in jig. I'm gonna make another jig, with holes for the old and new stud locations, that will align on the existing studs, then attached to the body, that will allow me to detach the studs from the bolt-in jig, move them to the new holes, then reattach them to a modified bolt-in jig. JIGS!
  7. Adoom


    The Fabricator youtube welder guy.... On one of his rollcage videos he did all the scraping, then used a small blowtorch to burn out all the little scraps left.
  8. Finally at the back again. Made cross member MK2. Used some 1.6mm steel for the sides, 2mm for the top. The vertical metal bandsaw is right up there in the favourite tool list, it makes cutting this stuff up a piece of cake. Zip zap welded it together. Blurry photos. I really hope I worked the heights out correctly. This should give me ~70mm bump and droop from ride height.
  9. Adoom


    I bought mine from these guys. https://panelstore.co.nz/products/408-epotec-primer-kit-4l-1l-white
  10. Made a fan shroud. Also made some clearance around the radiator cap, the radiator needed to move forward a little more.
  11. There should be a plastic cover over the lens that you replace. The std rectangle ones are only a few $ at Mitre10. I bought one of these Optrels two years ago, it may be an old model now. It was pretty expensive for me, $800. But the clarity in dark and not dark mode is fantastic, a massive improvement over my previous one! It also has a big viewing angle, not like the typical letterbox view. https://www.prolineindustrial.co.nz/product/optrel-panoramaxx-auto-darkening-welding-helmet-204544 I'd definitely recommend it if your budget can accommodate it. Note: My previous experience has been with a cheap non-auto darkening helmet. Then a ~$200 auto darkening helmet. Now with the expensive optrel.
  12. EDIT: In the discussion thread... I solved the leaky clamps by spraying silicone spray between the hose and clamp allowing it to be tightened without pinching the hose. I found the oil leak eventually. When I welded on the AN fittings to my remote filter adapter plate, I had to machine a relief into the weld for bolt clearance. Doing this had created a tiny little pin hole, I could barely see it but when I removed the bolt and ran the engine I could see a weep of oil coming out of apparently nowhere. So I bathed it in acetone, stripped off all the paint, spot blasted the weld area with the sand blaster then bathed it in acetone again. Then dried it with the heat gun. Luck seemed to be with me and I managed to get a puddle going without it turning to a pile of slag. The weld on the left didn't obviously leak, but it had a suspicious looking dot, so I remelted it just in case. Forgive the welding, I am still a tig novice. This fix is probably only the 3rd time I've welded aluminium. The engine bay part of the loom wrapping is basically done, I used that expanding sleeve stuff. I wouldn't say I'm ecstatic with the result, but I suppose it's acceptable. I also sorted out the wiring for the alternator so the charging circuit works now.
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