Jump to content

Adoom

Members
  • Content Count

    1,556
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

2,507 Excellent

About Adoom

  • Rank
    Committed
  • Birthday 21/07/1981

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

Converted

  • Local Area
    Wellington

Recent Profile Visitors

1,481 profile views
  1. Sprayed myself with sharp metal filings whittling the hole out with the die grinder. I also welded it on the back side of the head flange. But it was shit and bubbly... probably should have cleaned it. I'll have to grind it out and do it again.
  2. Managed to fit it all in. I had to put the v-band flanges in the lathe to make it shorter. Need to scribe around it, then cut those spot welds and whittle out a hole
  3. A some more. This shit takes fucking ages. It took me literally four hours of going from engine to bandsaw to sander to wire wheel to grinder to welder to sand blaster to wire wheel to engine to bandsaw to sander to welder over and over and over just to make this small bit.
  4. If the Atom has enough spare inputs/outputs, you can us that to control the water injection and you don't need a separate controller. Since the Atom already knows the inlet temp and the boost pressure from the map sensor, you probably just need one Digital Out to turn the water injection sprayer on.
  5. Yep, it needed a kink put in it. Even like this it just misses the corner of the chassis rail by 5mm. Not sure if I will need to relieve the chassis rail by taking the corner off it. I'll see if I can get the engine to rock enough to hit next time it's in. Hopefully it doesn't, the urethane engine mounts are pretty stiff. I've still got to fill in the blanks on this side.
  6. I experimented with water injection on my CA18ET. Ended up trying E85 in the water injection system. But the flow rate was inconsistent. Replaced it with an EFI pump and a small fuel injector. It worked really well. It only came on at higher boost levels, it allowed the 'normal' fuel to be reduced because of the added E85 and the timing increased. It dropped the intake temp by quite a bit. Went from 150kw to 170kw without changing anything else. It used fuck all E85. I think I worked out that if I was on boost 100% of the time, the 5L of E85 would last about as long as the 40L 'normal' fu
  7. I need to put the engine back in the hole to make sure this clears the chassis rail. I suspect I may need to kink it so it's closer to the block.
  8. Since you guys insisted I use mandrel bends for the short runners rather than straight pipe, here you go. The first one didn't quite fit but I covered it in masking tape to make a template that was more or less the correct shape. I've still got no tig gas, so used the mig to tack it together. I used some hitech spacers and mounting solution for the cross over pipe. The last runner is going to be a real bitch to fit because it needs to merge right in the middle of the larger bend. The downpipe will have a v-band somewhere. I should probably put it bac
  9. Got some motivation to continue with the exhaust manifold. I'm just gonna do a log on the passenger side because there's no steering shaft to try get around. Hopefully that doesn't make the exhaust sound weird. Did just a little bit of welding and realised Argon is on empty! Fuuuuck, I only just filled up the week before xmas. At 8L/m that's about 3.5 hours of solid welding.... have I really done that much?! Not sure if it's worth the effort of using mandrel bends for the two middle runners.... they will only be 15-20mm long... is it going to make any difference if I just use st
  10. There it is on the engine. I may need to replace those straight fittings with 90's... I'll see when the engine is back in the hole.
  11. Turns out they only needed to be angled a tiny bit. Trying to weld the bit in the middle is such a PITA, needs more tungsten stick out, but not enough gas coverage had to turn the amps up to 100 to get the puddle to start in the root of the gap. So shit was getting thermonuclear hot. There was some damage to the threads, but I cleaned them up with the tiny triangle file, and the sealing surface is still okay, so it will still seal. I had to mill some pockets for the nuts. And they both screw on. I did check that it still fits on the engine. Pain
  12. Good idea. I managed to sort it another way.
  13. The original oil filter housing wants to be in the same space as the steering rack. So I decided to modify it and make it remote. This was my first attempt at aluminium welding, so it's a bit lumpy. It turned out okay. But I messed up drilling the engine side to straighten up the holes and cut into the sealing surface. So I had to make a new one. but it has a funny shaped figure 8 o'ring. So I had to break out the rotary table and use it for the first time. It turned out quite well. The holes are actually too close togethe
  14. Posted in the discussion thread by mistake. Plasma cutter and carbide burr. Zip zap. It's in and diff is now self supporting. I still need to fill in the small square hole. And pull the diff out so I can finish welding the back.
×
×
  • Create New...