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About Adoom

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  • Birthday 21/07/1981

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  1. Adoom

    Adoom's 1972 Triumph 2000

    I made an Isosceles triangle. For making sure the subframe is central and straight. I'll make another much longer one from the two front mounts. Unfortunately those two mounts are torn, they are almost falling out, and I need to replace them first.
  2. Adoom

    Adoom's 1972 Triumph 2000

    The existing rear cross member needed lots of modifications so I could get the subframe high enough and have room for the top suspension arm. I realised it was going to be WAY less work if I cut the whole thing out and make a new one out of box section. Snip snip. Those straps tacked to the top are my alignment jig, the bolts use existing/factory holes in the body. I don't want to permanently mount this since I will transfer it over to the white car once I've worked out how it will fit. The box is 3mm thick, so should be stronger than the original. I will tie it into the existing chassis rails which start just forward of it. The strut tops will be built off the ends of those angled bits, which I have intentionally made too long so I can trim them to fit. The angled bits follow the sides of the fuel tank, so it will/should still fit.
  3. Adoom

    Adoom's 1972 Triumph 2000

    I made some round things with holes in them. I'm going to need to run 5mm wheel spacers(this is with 3mm washers).
  4. So I've got my spacer to put the rod end at the right height. I've got my "beefy washer" at the bottom to prevent pull through. I've got a Grade 8.8 bolt and the shank goes all the way through all the bits(the extra spacer at the top allows me to tighten the nut). But that beefy washer and bolt head are now REALLY close to the wheel. I had to space the wheel out with some 3mm washers. So now I have 3mm clearance. How much clearance is enough clearance? I can space the wheels out further...
  5. I get my belts from MyTools. They don't always have them available. But the green Zirconia belts are the only ones I've come across that hold together long enough to wear out before breaking. AFAIK, they are glued and taped. I use my power file mostly for cleaning up welds, and the sharp edges are pretty hard on the join. I tried the bunnings ones, but they fell apart so fast I may as well have put them straight in the bin. I've only ever seen the bosch belts in 60G, but I mostly use 40G for welds.
  6. Regarding taps. I've recently been buying German Volkel brand taps. From CarbideNZ. They are quite affordable for what I think are quality taps. Miles better/sharper at cutting threads than the absolute rubbish "Frost" brand set I have.
  7. Adoom

    Adoom's 1972 Triumph 2000

    Aaand the engine is now self supporting. It sank a couple mm. I wan't sure if it was resting on the rack, but no, I can slide a thick bit of card between them. I'll be notching the sump, eventually, to get some more clearance off the rack.
  8. Adoom

    Adoom's 1972 Triumph 2000

    And the other side. My auto welding helmet is naff. It gets waaaaay too dark and it's hard to see. Dunno if it was always like that.. But it's realy old now, so I've ordered a new/better/expensiver one. It was a billion degrees, so I'm leaving it to cool before seeing if it still fits.
  9. Adoom

    Adoom's 1972 Triumph 2000

    I've made the bracket for the driver side. I didn't want to make it too bulky and make it almost impossible to install the bolts. The welding warped the tube slightly, it's oval by about 0.5-0.75mm. Fortunately the bushes still fit okay. I tacked a bit of 2.5mm flat between the tube and the plate to locate them, then unbolted it and removed the bushes so I could make the bracket from 5mm plate on the bench. After letting it cool, I tested that the bushes still fit and the bracket was still the right shape to bolt back in. YAY, it still lines up with the holes! I'll tidy up the welds a bit with the die grinder... I've temporarily tacked the mount to the chassis rail so I know exactly where it needs to go for later. Because I need to remove the engine to get in there to clean it up for welding, then weld it.
  10. Adoom

    Adoom's 1972 Triumph 2000

    Fine then! I'll just use this broken chuck to weigh it down. I got a bit overzealous with the tacking and melted one of the bushes a little bit. But it's okay, it's just cosmetic. The engine mounting plates are now bolted down properly. I had to shorten the bolts in the lathe. They were a bit too long because the original mount was a really thick aluminium casting. A bit more room for exhaust manifold. I'm afraid it's probably going to have to be a log style, there probably isn't room for 4-1, or 4-2-1. This is as low as it will go. Any lower and it's too close to the steering intermediate shaft.
  11. Adoom

    Mechanical to electric speedo

    I've never had any problems with getting wofs. It's been like that for at least 4 years. You can buy speedos that take a pwm input and you get an odo. I think they are a few $100. I only used a tacho because I was looking for the cheapest possible solution, because racecar.
  12. Adoom

    Mechanical to electric speedo

    That's what I did. You just lose the odo.
  13. So much cutty weldy it's easier to start from scratch.
  14. The engine did come with some fancy headers, but they are much too wide.
  15. Adoom

    Adoom's 1972 Triumph 2000

    That bit is actually pretty strong, it's the bottom of the strut tower, so it's got another ribbed reinforcing panel on the back of it that extends up to the top of the tower.