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About Adoom

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  • Birthday 21/07/1981

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  1. AFAIK, the long skinny runners that go to the 4 ports shaped like an 8 are to increase the velocity of the air at low revs. To get more air in? For increased bottom end torque? As the revs increase the butterflies open allowing the air to go through the big short runners and feed all 8 inlet ports. The downside to this is if you use only low revs, 4 of the ports/valves are blocked most of the time and you get lots of carbon gunk built up behind those 4 valves. When I stripped that engine there was big piles of gunk stacked up behind those 4 valves. I did not move the ruler between photos. So the measurement is there... 299mm. Sad man. Oh yeh and the center gap.... is 183mm-149mm = 34mm
  2. Pics too huge... I also have the head. I was planning on using it. I had gone through the effort of hand cutting new gaskets. But then the tuner I was going to use was like "LOLWAT! Find a normal one".
  3. Here is my funny super early manifold
  4. I have one, but it's a really early version and has a cross over manifold with a TVIS like contraption on it. Is it worthwhile measuring that?
  5. Finally got around to wrestling with the gearbox at the start of lockdown. I needed to swap it out with a spare because the seat for the output shaft oil seal was damaged due to a too long propshaft and it would leak oil. 2nd gear started making noise. Put some essential oils in. Didn't look at invoice so no dicks were seen. @Dell'orto I pulled the old box apart and there was fuck all oil in it. 2nd gear looked physically okay, but was all black and burnt. Reverse had chipped corners from missing 4th a few too many times.
  6. You might want to use a bit of wood or aluminium to practice drilling the holes in the right place, then use the best one as a drilling template on the boot lid?
  7. Made a top plate to mock up the coil over top mount. I somehow managed to mess up drilling the stud holes, so I guess this is just for testing. This is pretty much where it will sit. Ride height will be in the middle of the stroke.
  8. I dropped a 2.5mm screw.
  9. One of the two areas where there is rust. In the boot/rear quarter. Got decent penetration. I made use of a copper backing plate(a squashed copper pipe) for the long butt welds.
  10. What's the fitting made of? Can you get some weld onto it? That should loosen it up.
  11. So the shifter housing is real fucking close to the cross member...chassis rail(not really sure what to call it) that goes through the tunnel. It makes it a real bastard to get the gearbox on the engine because you cannot slide it back. You have to drop the engine, and to do that you have to take the engine mounts off. I was going to leave it until much later when I could flip the car over and have easy access. But I decided to do it a different way. I borrowed a piece from the rusty yellow one. Then unstitched the welds to remove the offending side of the cross member Then chopped it up to make myself a puzzle. Then zapped it back together. I started off with the mig, but the welds were such a pain to grind smooth, so I had some more practice with the tig. I made about 30mm more room for the gearbox. I will make the angle bits to join the chassis rails back together when it's on the car. The width of the rails is not consistent, so making them fit this does not automatically make them fit the white one. I'm crossing my fingers that the floor panel pressings are the same.
  12. I got some from Steel and Tube seaview. They only do full sheets and don't have the facilities to cut it, so you need a trailer. It was inexpensive.
  13. Using my bumpsteer measuring thingamadoodah and fucking around with spacing the tie rod end and rack mounts I found that the tie rod end and the steering arm needed to exist in the same space. So I sacrificed a spare one to modify so I can continue mocking up. I made a jig to hold the end in the right place for welding. Here is the one from the other side to see how far it's moved up. . And totally legit welding. safe as. This is just for mocking up. Once I get the height right for minimal bump steer, I'll mill the final ones out of a block of mild steel and have tapered holes so I can use the factory tie-rod end and not fuck around with rose joints, bolts and spacers. I've been using the LVVTA bumpsteer pdf thing. My measuring thingamadoodah has the points 575mm apart, so each mm of toe is 0.1 degrees. With my hacked steering arm, the tie rod end is mounted below it. This is with a 3mm spacer, it's the best I've got it so far. If I remove the spacer and move the tie-rod end up, the line on the graph indicates the tie rod end is too high. If I have two 3mm spacers, the line says it's too low. I'll have to make some 1mm spacers to see if I can fine tune it further. To flatten out that curve I think the whole tie rod has to be longer, but then I'd need a shorter steering rack.
  14. Calipers are rebuilt. I had to use the original retaining spring ring things that hold the seals on as the replacement ones were too short and made the seal bunch up between the ends. I made 3 sets of spacer before I got the thickness right so the disc is in the middle of the calipers. The spacers still have to be tig'ed on and the brackets painted.
  15. Both calipers are cleaned and painted. I split them before painting to install the new o-rings between the halves. The pistons are good on the outside sealing surfaces, but the inside was a bit rusty, so I wrapped the outside in tape and sandblasted the inside, then painted them with caliper paint so they don't immediately rust again. I'll give them a few days for the paint to harden some more before I assemble them. I've made the caliper brackets for both sides. And all the spacers. I'm going to wait until both calipers are assembled then fit them so I know 100% that the spacers are the correct thickness before I weld them on, just in case. The spacers on the top of the bracket are for the strut, also so I don't need to get shorter bolts.