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About Adoom

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  • Birthday 21/07/1981

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  1. So since the engine mounts were welded to the chassis rails. And the modified sump is back on the engine. I suppose I can put the engine back in and figure out how much I can lift the steering rack back up. Shouldn't take long.... the engine was already on the crane. So I put the engine in the hole, I put one bolt through the left engine mount because that one got there first. Just lower it a bit more and slide the right side bolt through...... huh. The hole doesn't line up. It's off by 3-4mm... Is it just the urethane? I'll try align it with a big screw driver... Nope that's didn't work. Have the chassis rails spread?! Offers up front cross member. Nope those bolt holes still line up. Did I put the engine mounts on the wrong sides after painting? Surely not. Swaps mounts around. Puts one bolt through. Other side still still doesn't line up. And engine now tilted nose down. So I suspect, that when I removed the engine, then cut the temporary tack welds to prep for fully welding the mounts, I pushed the mount plates much more snug against the chassis rails so they were further apart. Disappointed... Simplest solution I can think of is to try shim the mounts off the engine block with washers to get the holes to line up again. Then I'll weld those washers to the mount so it cannot be installed without them.
  2. Aeons ago, when I worked at Road and Track in lower hutt I got long wheel studs for my Starlet. "Nice" may have been the supplier, but afaik they came from a local stockist. Early 20's me though they were expensive at the time. Suspect it might have been ~$200 for 20. So R&T might be able to help.
  3. Fyi: howatt works from his house now, the workshop was closed when i went there last. His address is on his website. Down near waterloo.
  4. Sooo when I was chasing out all the threads I managed to put the wrong pitch M10 tap through one of the bellhousing mount holes. So had to invest in some thread repair kits. OUCH! My wallet. I got an M6 at the same time because there are some stripped threads on the gearbox. ...the gear lever retention plate thing is held down by four M6 bolts and all the holes are stripped.
  5. Finally got the sump back on. Remembered that I had another set of bolts when I bought the sump so I cleaned them up.
  6. Who needs a welder? Sorry, couldn't find it in English.
  7. WTF is an axle cross supposed to be? Do they mean the trailing arms??? They are more of an "L". How is it for rust... Battery fallen through the battery box and dangling? Rear subframe mounting points loose/broken? Broken exhaust mounts? Probably this one I reckon. Not much else under there that could make a knocking like that.
  8. So I found a local place that could anneal my sump which would allow me to pull it flat. Dymo Manufacturing in Wingate. They put it in their kiln with it bolted to the jig. It was heated up to.... hot, then allowed to cool down slowly over many hours. ~10 I think. $70. The heat seems to have baked out any oils and cooked the sealer that was still in the grooves on the mounting face. The sealer just crumbles and turns to powder when I scrape at it. Only down side was it caused some of the small M6 bolts to seize in the jig which I wasn't expecting, so I broke one and stripped at least two more. So I'll have to find some suitable bolts to bolt it back to the engine. Oops. But it's more or less flat already. So I am happy to bolt it back to the engine, the sealer will sort out any tiny gaps. Cast iron table saw top is the flattest thing I have. I did try move it around a bit, just in case the table saw top was bent. It's the same which ever way I put it. There is still a tiny gap at the front of the sump, but it's no bigger than 0.5mm and if I put some weight on it, it closes up. Yay.
  9. Adoom

    New garage toy/tool

    You got it. The top wheels are a little smaller that you have drawn. The bottom wheel is about right. I think the blade is 0.6mm
  10. Adoom

    New garage toy/tool

    I gave the welder assembly a clean with compressed air. It had loads of metal 'dust' all over it. Which I assume was conductive! I should probably try make some kind of plastic dust cover for it. I traced the wires... Round thing at the top is the grinder motor. 2,3,6 are joined together, which looks original. As far as I can tell, the welder and annealer should have been working, it was only the grinder motor that was no longer connected. AFAIK, if I add in the wires I've drawn in thin lines, the motor should work. So next thing to do is pull out the multimeter and check the switches all work and there is continuity in the transformer coils.
  11. So I bought a metal cutting vertical bandsaw. It's single phase. I picked it up on the weekend. It belonged to a fabrication shop called Metalmorphic. They bought it new ~35 years ago(the plate on the motor says 1982) and stopped using it about 5 years ago because laser cutting exists. All I've had time to do is take the blade guides to bits and clean them. Looking at the photos I realised I put part of the top support in backwards, so the locking screws face the wrong way. I knew the blade welder wasn't working when I bought it, he said it had been "fixed" some years ago, but it's not working. Here is the photo from trademe, it's much cleaner now. Looking on google, it seems like many saw brands use "identical' blade welders. I'll probably never use the blade welder and just buy ready made blades. But I thought I'd take it apart and see if I could find what was wrong with it. "How complicated could it possibly be?". Someone has been in here before me... That switch with all the cut wires is to turn on the little grinder. I assume the red cable originally came here rather than the terminal block? And then yellow wires from here to the terminal block? The grinder motor also has a loose red wire with a spade connector on it that has nowhere to connect to. I assume the two wires coming from the saw are phase and neutral, and it earths through the casing? Does anyone else have a blade welder like this and can take some photos for me?
  12. Sorted out the bore size so it's the same as the disc bore. Then I made a mandrel to stack the disc and the sandwich plate and the old disc, so I could use the holes in the old disc as a drilling guide.