Adoom

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About Adoom

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  • Birthday 21/07/1981

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  1. Aaaaaaand I wired up the switches for the big forward/reverse lever on the carriage. So now I can make it go forward/stop/reverse with that lever. I'll go to jaycar on Saturday and get a 10K potentiometer for the speed control and maybe a box to put it in.
  2. Can you get another case and stack them?
  3. Correct size belts arrived at lunch today! It's ALIIIIIIIIVE! It's got no problem with a 1 second acceleration time in all the gears. Okay I'm a little scared to crank straight to full speed in top gear. The speeds on the gearbox are for a 1400rpm motor and my motor is 2800. So the 760rpm top gear is actually 1510rpm. I had to increase the decelleration time to 6 seconds to stop it getting an over voltage error. If it goes over voltage it cuts the power and lets the motor freewheel to a stop. I'll try do some wiring of the remote switches on the weekend. But I really should be installing the garage insulation cause it's in the way of everything.
  4. Dang it! The new belts are way too long. I cannot lower the motor far enough to take out the slack. Lesson learned, now I know belt lengths are listed by inside diameter. The way I measured the length I needed got me the outside diameter which is 40-50mm different. Ordered more new belts, hopefully they send them today and I should get them tomorrow. WAAH!
  5. It fought me, but I managed to get it in there. It juuuuust fits. I had to chop the big studs down to move get the pulley in the right place. I found that the terminal box on the top of the motor could be reversed which gave me about 20mm extra clearance at the top. To get it through the door I have to wrestle it in on its side then lift it back up. It weighs about 40kg. I could not get the motor high enough to use the original belts so I have ordered some longer ones. Hopefully they should arrive tomorrow and it will be alive again. I still need to wire the big forward reverse switch lever to the VFD and get a potentiometer for speed control and stop switch.
  6. So I had a go at programming the VFD. Entering the motor specs and changing the acceleration and decceleration times. I changed the accel from 20 to 2 seconds. It had no problem with that. But it may be different with a load. I tried the deccel at 2 sec as well. Part way through it cut the power and showed a fault code. So I changed it to 4 sec which it was happy with. I'll have to look into how to use a braking resistor.
  7. Possablery.... It does have terminals for braking. I'll have to have a go at deciphering the engrish manual.
  8. So with Covid Level 2, work decided we would all work from home again since we were used to doing it from L4. So I multitasked and wired up the VFD. The 5.5Kw motor is just on the bench, so there is no mechanical load. It does appear to work as advertised. It ramps the frequency up from 0 to 50 Hz. It takes 20 seconds to go from stopped to what seems to be full speed. Maybe this is configurable? But possibly it cannot handle a faster ramp up/down? It appears to do the same when you press stop and ramps down. For braking? When you change direction, it ramps down, then up again the other way. At 50Hz, I measure 350v between the phases. I can adjust the speed from ~60rpm to full speed(2800, but I cannot test this). I suspect I have not wasted my money.
  9. Well, shit! It just turned up today!!! 50 days since "leaving" china airport. The last tracking update was June 23rd. Looks okay. I took the covers off and the circuit boards look well made. "senries" mmm hmm yep, defo china spec. I guess I will find out if I wasted my money when I try power up my 5.5kw motor. Hopefully I get around to that this weekend.
  10. " (i) ABS and Polycarbonate helmets shall not be painted, and (ii) Composite shell helmets may only be painted with a paint approved by the helmet manufacturer, and " https://manual.motorsport.org.nz/index.php/knowledgebase/36-2-01a-schedule-a-1/
  11. AFAIK, if it's for motorsports, a painted helmet will fail scrutineering. I could be wrong... but you did say "opinions".
  12. Meuser. "Mauser" is a... gun? That mystery white box is probably just full of big capacitors. An oldschool way to run a 3ph motor on 1ph. I believe there are downsides to doing it that way. But that is the same trademe seller I mentioned that has the VFDs too. This is what I ordered. The 7.5KW option. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000927690757.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.48194c4dFSZbhp Remember, I'm not an electrologist, this is just from the research I did before ordering my VFD.
  13. I reckon Drftnmaz just made an error. The Delta option will always be the lowest voltage the motor will run on. I am not clued up on how the speed control would work for your current setup. But I would imagine that if your motor was 380v delta and you wired a 380v 3PH supply to it in Star, it would run slower.... but I'm no electrologist. I've looked into VFDs to get my head around it for a big motor I am installing on my lathe. Most VSD/VFD will be 220v 1PH in and 220v 3ph out. If your motor plate has a 220v Delta(the triangle) option, you can use that kind of VSD/VFD. These are the reasonably inexpensive ones. If the Delta option on your motor plate says 380v, then the Star(upside down Y) will be ~600v, you cannot run it on the above type VFD. But you can get a VFD/VSD that does 220v 1PH in and 380v 3PH out, but they cost much more and they are not nearly as common. I have ordered a 7.5KW VFD from AliExpress, to run a 5.5KW 380v 3PH(Delta) Motor. The VFD was ~$600. It's on longtime shipping. I ordered it at the end of April... it's been "on a plane" since June 23rd. Still got another month left on the order guarantee thingo. Hopefully I have not wasted my money. If you don't want to wait a million years... There is a VFD guy on Trademe. I'm pretty sure he is just reselling the Aliexpress VFDs and he has a hefty markup. Last time I looked he did have some of the 220v 1PH to 380v 3PH VFD.
  14. EXTENDO BRACKET! The big motor does not fit with the rear stud in the original location. Fortunately there is another tapped hole for the stud further back. I assume there was a factory option with a longer motor that uses a different plate... This option seemed way easier/cheaper than making a completely new mounting plate. I still need to make an adapter plate because the bolt holes on the motor are just wider than the slots in the plate.
  15. AFAIK, the long skinny runners that go to the 4 ports shaped like an 8 are to increase the velocity of the air at low revs. To get more air in? For increased bottom end torque? As the revs increase the butterflies open allowing the air to go through the big short runners and feed all 8 inlet ports. The downside to this is if you use only low revs, 4 of the ports/valves are blocked most of the time and you get lots of carbon gunk built up behind those 4 valves. When I stripped that engine there was big piles of gunk stacked up behind those 4 valves. I did not move the ruler between photos. So the measurement is there... 299mm. Sad man. Oh yeh and the center gap.... is 183mm-149mm = 34mm