a.craw4d

FYI. The only difference between a 15A and a 10A plug is the size of the earth pin.

^ What alltorque said. I've installed a few towbars and all used crush tubes if bolting through a hollow section.

Cheers guys. Looks like I'll get my arse into gear and make a set to suit a low car, and not be smooth on the bottom so they don't slip out. There were a few reviews on the supercheap and repco ones saying they slip out. Thanks again.

Can anyone recommend me some car ramps? I'm sick of jacking up cars to do an oil change. I was going to build my own at some stage but energy and time haven't allowed for quite a while now. Supercheap has a set half price at the moment, anyone have experience with those ones? Cheers.

Thanks @RUNAMUCK I know I want to. But the misses is away on a conference that weekend and I'll be trying to juggle work and the school pick up/ drop off's for a couple days either side of it. I'm still plugging away at the motorbike and plan to make an oldschool meet sometime in the future on it.

Ling post but I've removed the transponder from a car key and just attached it to the ignition barrel, then get normal keys cut.

Really? I've got a S13 Silvia that I converted ca18de to the sr20det. The sr came from a factory s13 and the conversion uses all factory parts. I was still under the impression I'd need driveshaft hoops for cert. PS, haven't been for cert because project lyfe.

But we all secretly love them. I may as well try put the final nail in the coffin so I can be the one who ruined it for everyone. In all seriousness though it'll have suspension and all the required bits n pieces to be safe and legal so I don't actually see the problem. Plus a low car towing a high trailer just looks stupid. Nobody wants to be that.

Anyone got a link to the rules for building a trailer? Also, is this leaf spring setup legal here? Don't know if it would actually work very well but it ticks the low box I'm going for. Might go something along the lines of this but mounted higher to achieve more low. PS, I don't care if it drags on shit

Don't know about what's available near you but my work has a special lathe set up for machining the face of wheels. On something like those I'd get blasted, a coat of black paint down between the spokes ( don't worry about getting paint on the faces, it gets machined off), get the faces machined and then a good clear coat on top.

Have just ordered one of these also. Will update once I've given it a good work out.

That boc smootharc 185 is a nice little unit. Have one at work and is nice and simple to use. I bought a strada? 200amp acdc machine. Goes well and has heaps of adjustments that I hardly use. Down side is it's big and bulky. It's probably the same as machinery houses ezitig 200.

Yeah I'd be scared of a plug set up as the wheel nuts would be fully located on the plug. You'd be totally relying on the plug to wheel join holding the wheels on the car.

What would be the best plan of attack to repair this? Three piece wheels have had the steel inserts removed and the stud holes slotted. I want to repair to original so thinking of a couple of options. 1- Weld up the slots, machine the holes and fit new inserts (if I can get new inserts). 2- Use the shank style wheel nuts and machine up a washer/spacer that locates on the countersunk and flat area around the stud holes but leave the slotted part as is. Thoughts? PS, I can weld ali and machine parts at little or no cost.

I've just used autosol metal polish in a couple of places I probably shouldn't have with great results (so far, may yet end up in the disaster thread). -Clear yellowed plastic, looks like new now. Will see how it lasts. Unpolished headlight. This one looked clean and clear before I cleaned up the other side. Side polished with autosol. -Powder coated motorbike wheels, have done a small patch and looks really good. It has removed crap that carb cleaner and petrol wouldn't.