ajg193

How do you get it back together without the tool though?

Regarding dyno tuning ignition timing, I found a somewhat similar situation. I tuned each individual load/rpm cell for peak power/torque, was all good on the dyno But on the road it was a bit rough as the power map wasn't even remotely smooth. I ended up just blending the timings in most areas to get a more smooth map, it made a huge difference

I spent 4 hours cleaning the front seats today. They went from disgusting crusty greasy messes that I was on the verge of reupholstering to looking really good apart from a few worn patches I didn't take any pictures until I had already cleaned the dirtiest parts but this gives a bit of an indication Cleaned using wet and dry vacuum cleaner, a mix of washing machine powder and an old toothbrush

200 km a day in a tang? You mad? I'm quite impressed actually

I can give you brochure weights for all different forms and trim levels of Slant front KPs if you want? I think Sprint is 715 kg

I am actually saddened by this turn of events. I think your only option now is to stick a turbo on it and get some reliable power.

I've seen rope used in cylinder to hold valves up when air isn't available

Goodrides I had in the past weren't even round, so there's that aspect too I'd say the #1 most important thing is the behaviour of the tyres in moist/wet conditions. Nothing worse than not being able to steer or stop safely when you really need to

Able to sign up and pay cash on the day? I'll be driving up from Chch on the 10th, brother will also be keen on bringing his Capri

Oil pressure is better than before, crank ground undersize to 0.25, I reckon he got the clearances a little on the loose side though as it still wants slightly thicker than 15w-40, light comes on at about 550 rpm if super hot. He said the clearances were about 2.5 thou, would have been 4 if he just blindly went to book size. I'm guessing that over time there will get to be a little buildup on the bearing journals to increase the flow resistance and make higher pressure. Managed to get 35000 out of the old tyres, supposedly quite good going for a539s. It's my car of choice for driving so tends to rack up the kms

Not a whole lot to report here. Just been doing a tonne of driving since the engine rebuild. Put over 3000 km on it in the last month and a half. Rebuild included going to far more mild cam, just adds about 500 rpm onto power curve Replaced exhaust manifold with some rush headers as well, no more leaks. Fuel economy is as good as or better than ever Got some new Falken ze912 tyres today, thanks to Chris @CUL8R at Mag and Turbo - should be good for a few more years Here's an adventure picture to compensate you for your time

Talking about tyres, I'm gonna get a new set on the Starlet today. Out with the fantastic Yoko A539s and in with hopefully good Falken 912s

https://eapa.org/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/fuel_efficiency_report.pdf

Here is some data for a Volvo (brick): I feel like for something significantly more aerodynamic the fuel consumption numbers would be affected far more by surface roughness Max difference at each speed for that graph: 50 km/h : 3.6% 60 km/h : 7.2% 70 km/h : 7.6%

Anyone else notice up to 10% difference in fuel consumption between chipseal and asphalt road surface? Could be a good way to get a nice virtual Dyno boost @Roman