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About ajg193

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    Standard ride height pls
  • Birthday 28/04/1994

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  1. I changed some settings in the tune, I found that at 4 squirts per cycle I was hitting areas where the pulsewidth was just too low to accurately deliver fuel (like 2500 rpm with no load on the engine). I changed it to 2 squirts per cycle so that the pulsewidth is now essentially doubled. I think that this has helped with that problem, and doubling the PW at idle is probably also reasonable as well as at 1.5 ms before I reckon it wouldn't have been far from the nonlinear region. I took the car on a good thrash through the hills to retune the VE map and whatnot. Shown in Figure 1 from the datalogs. Figure 1, VE map Don't worry about it being greater than 100 (colourbar is the VE value), these numbers are essentially a nondimensional scaling factor, that coupled with the fact that I am running lower fuel pressure than the injectors are rated at (I'm running 3 bar above manifold pressure). You can see above 5000 rpm it really starts to drop off significantly, but it peaks around 3500 rpm (I'd as that this is around the max torque point) I also used the Duty cycle values from the injectors to calculate approximate engine power, assuming a 100% duty cycle flow rate of 210 cc per injector, an energy density of 34.2 MJ/litre of fuel and a thermal efficiency of 25% across the board (which is a huge assumption, but I'd say is fairly typical for a petrol engine). The results of this calculation are shown in Figure 2 Figure 2, power curve The colourbar is manifold pressure (in % of barometer). This would give a peak power of around about 58 kW (79 ps/hp), and the curve pretty much perfectly overlaps the one given in the JDM Starlet brochure for the 4K-E. I'd say that the power is probably over estimated by about 5-10% but isn't too far off. I've also found that the car can now get up Hackthorne Road in 4th gear quite happily where I would have needed to stay in 3rd gear with the carb setup. Figure 3 shows a map of the pulsewidth vs RPM. The colourbar is the manifold pressure value. The line of points along the RPM axis/0 PW is where fuel cuts were active on deceleration. Figure 3, Pulse width map Figure 4 shows the observed AFR of the engine, mapped to manifold pressure and RPM. I'm generally holding around the 13.0 mark at full throttle and cruising at around 16.5. My idle AFR is currently a little high at around 14.5, I'll probably drop this down to around 13 as that seems to minimize any effects of heat soak if the engine has been sitting for 10 minutes or so. I probably also need to adjust the VE values on the trace route back down to idle as occasionally it will miss the idle and stall after a hot start since I changed from 4 squirts to 2 squirts (used to be good with my old map). I'm currently not running any EGO correction, I may enable it at some point in the future once I am convinced that the O2 controller starts reliably (I've been having issues recently where it sometimes doesn't output anything to the ECU, but I seem to have gotten it to work reliably again). Figure 4, Observed AFR What is interesting to see from the VE map/PW map is the general operating range of the engine, where it's pretty much all used below 3000 rpm but above that I am generally either fully on the gas or fully off the gas. Then there are some areas which are never hit, such as low RPM/low manifold pressure, or just about anything below 1000 rpm in general.
  2. "I don't need an Imp!" ... "I don't need an Imp!" .... .... "I need an Imp. And another Imp. I need all the Imps. #yolo"
  3. Mate. You've got a serious Imp problem. I think you ought to check yourself into a mental facility before you have the nation's entire stock of imp shells. /jelly
  4. Cletus' '68 Plymouth post car

    Really needs taller springs, you're just adding unnecessary weight. But a start is a start.
  5. Indicator lens is imp/mk1 escort. Hinge looks impish, as does the shot of the side. But that wiper looks too close to the hinge for an imp?
  6. Romans COD piece

    Are you using vacuum (or pressure assisted) infusion with your CF bits? They're looking a bit dry. Also, could I convince you of the wonder that is glass fiber? Significantly cheaper than CF and you'll get the majority of the weight savings with it, unless you really optimize the structure to its limits (which costs more $$ and time than you'd ever save). Fiberglass is also an electrical insulator, whereas CF will end badly if you mix it with electricity. /I'm a bit of a glass barry. But yeah, fiberglass doesn't have the same cool factor as carbon..
  7. Gonna be a rustwagon again soon. Damn salty puddles.
  8. Tortron's 3.8 Mayte fair dinkum Mitsi Ute

    What is the ID of that intake pipe you have (long bit with the 90 degree bend)?
  9. Mattts 78 E21 bmw

    Is this the one from the barn in Tai Tapu?
  10. Tortron's 3.8 Mayte fair dinkum Mitsi Ute

    I've got a stupid old Castrol oil can in my garage. It goes ting or tong all through the day, especially when you are least expecting it and are focused on a task. Scares the shit out of me. Never knew that the springing was actually called oil canning though.
  11. ajg193's 1983 KP61 Sprint

    I may just be sick in the head, but I'm sure these cars look better when they are high if they have Sprint rims.
  12. Thanks guys for the suggestions. Tried oldscool but they reckoned they'd come from Chch anyway so I just bought a pair from Chamberlains down here. New springs are in. Look at that lush height! Before: After: New springs (bit of a bugger they don't come in black though): Old springs: Next to eachother: Now sitting nice and level again: The car seems more flat around the corners now, but I have only driven it like 1 km since I put the springs in. It was an easier job than I expected it to be, just undo the top nut on the shocks, jack the car up and pull the old springs out and put the new ones in. I marked the old ones left/right and top/bottom so I can get them back into their original spots if I ever need to. I can now crawl under my car without having to jack it up so that's a bonus.
  13. Anyone know where I can track down some brand new rear springs for the Starlet? One side is sitting about 20 mm lower than the other, I think it may be a result of hauling reasonably heavy loads in the car for long distances a couple of times. Looking for factory height and preferably factory stiffness or slightly stiffer. /justcompresstheothersideby20mmandyoullbefinemayte
  14. ajg193's 1983 KP61 Sprint

    Fuel consumption is now within 2% of calculated but my fpr is no good. The pressure changes after about an hour of running, so I'll need to order a new one at some point. Regulator uses manifold vacuum.
  15. I finally decided to tackle the rust hiding under the hatch glass seal. I was hoping for surface rust but found a few holes. My brother cut it out and welded in some new steel for me and we then repainted the whole door using epoxy primer and 2 pot paint. The colour is pretty much spot on and the surface is pretty good, there is a little orange peel but not much different to factory paint. I still need to put the sprint badge back on (I'll do this when I get back to Christchurch as I have a better one down there) and I need to repaint the TOYOTASTARLET badge on the boot. I'll probably do a white outline around the letters or something. Factory is silver in the STARLET part and surrounding the TOYOTA part, with the rest of the badge black. Also as a bonus: I've now well and truly more than doubled the km on the car. Oh and I put a brand new radiator in the other day as the old one was getting to a point where the fins were crumbling at the slightest touch / every time a bug hit it the engine would warm up a bit more.