ajg193

That engine looks like it is about ready to be a boat anchor. Are those jet valves supposed to look like they've been burnt out?

Then just paint it whatever colour you want, it's not like you're fixing it with genuine Toyota steel

None of my bikes have shrouds on chains and I still have all 12 toes

Did you open it up and check that it is actually an LSD and not a lincoln locker?

Two things to consider: 1. Bypass generates a lot of heat and also limits the amount of oil going through the bearings so could decrease oil life 2. Way too high pressure can supposedly erode bearings, but I guess that will be a self clearancing system

Mate, what are you doing? At that price I would be knocking down the doors of the nearest money lender and buying that fine specimen right away. There's no way you could get more car for your money and to top it off that is an appreciating classic. You couldn't possibly go wrong. Just imagine the pure joy you will get from the big V8 burbling away at traffic lights.

Cool project but, man, what a strange set of constraints you are setting yourself. Why not just get it certed for RWD and save yourself major ballache?

Holy shit, it's like 3 grand a bottle at repco https://www.repco.co.nz/parts-service/climate-control/consumables/r134a-refrigerant-gas-au20497-r134a/p/A1053654

I think it was r134a, all I remember is the bottle was eggshell blue coloured and internet indicates that is r134a. There are no signs anywhere in the engine bay to specify a gas.

I just got one of the AC guys to throw more gas in mine at work while they were installing heatpumps. Surprisingly slow and precise job for someone to do, I thought it would be quicker. He didn't even take any money for it and it has been blowing at like -2C ever since. In summary, get someone who knows what they are doing to do it

With Toyota "std" size bearings still have a set of tolerance bands that suit each block and rod individually. The number is stamped on each bearing cap and you're supposed to only use matching number bearings. Is it the same for Suzuki (or whatever brand you are fixing)? Essentially it makes aftermarket bearings worthless and you'd usually buy each journal set individually instead of a whole engine worth In the real world it probably makes little to no functional difference compared to just ramming bearings in though

The stuff is probably accurate. I'm betting something isn't round and that's why your readings are off. Sometimes just cleaning the crank is enough to make your oil pressure drop below allowances after a rebuild

For the temperature gauge not reading right that is usually down to a bad earth. Maybe the sensor or other bolt between the sensor and block has built up enough resistance to give issues. Took us ages to figure out that one on my dad's Massey Ferguson when we couldn't get enough cranking amps into the starter. It turned out to be the big bolts holding the gearbox to the engine block

Just make sure not to keep any receipts for the rebuild

It won't be sold but it sure will be scrapped if you dick around with it. Just use it as is