ajg193

Found your problem M9, you have no radiator in the cooling loop.. /totalLing

Front seatbelts are mounted to what appears to be factory roll hoop? (At the least the hoop was fitted by dealer)

You absolutely certain you are measuring the bulk temperature of the water and not just the localised temperature? I.e. there will be parts around the combustion chamber that will give you readings 10 degrees higher than if you take the temperature from the upper radiator hose

@cletus Roll cage in FJ40, any particular requirements for cert other than being outside of the A zone for front and rear seats?

Hard to believe how much stuff went through the K&N

I reckon it's good. It gets rid of all room to argue.

LPG conversion would most likely be a simple case of drop it off at certified lpg installer/certer, waiting a week and then paying them a couple grand when you pick it up. If in NZ, LPG makes a lot of sense (no idea about Aus, but probably good there too). Pretty much half the running cost of petrol, so you could justify daily driving it.

Cert booked for 17th. $590. That's 10 tanks of fuel. Or 10 wofs. Or a whole set of tyres. One and a half weeks of full time income for me. Oh vell. Gotta be legal-shmegal. Edit: Also, does anyone know what happened to the LVVTA standard for fuel systems? I can't find it anywhere anymore and would like to avoid paying the $11 for the chapter from the CCM if at all possible. Just want to make certain it is all done to spec.

Get fekked kent. /I'll book it in for a cert some time this week. Looks like I lost the game. Do you have a link to the changes? Would be good to get a full read, current VIRM page doesn't show the changes as far as I can see /edit, found change previews https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/__data/assets/pdf_file/0004/75289/In-service-VIRM-amendment-April-2020-WoF-only.pdf Also new: "Minor modifications do not include carburetor to injector"

@kws is the resident expert

I have some nicely worn out shocks on my hilux if you want to swap

I'm not saying it's not worth doing (I have mine set up to cut fuel). Definitely good regarding fumes. But the fact of the matter is that you can only get so much air past a closed throttle - it will use essentially the same amount of air as it would at idle. One minute of driving at 100 is about the same fuel consumption as 10 minutes of going down hills if you don't cut the fuel. The reduction in fuel consumption in your case was probably mainly attributable to changes in driving style and other changes you made to the tune on the trip. Did you go on the desert road both ways? I've always found my fuel consumption to be significantly higher on the desert road (higher altitude, so lower engine power and operating in less efficient revs/load) compared to driving closer to sea level.

Fuel use on deceleration is pretty minimal anyway. So fuel savings by enabling it won't really add up to much, but they do make you feel superior to people running carbs. Running stoich under engine braking will use less than 10 cc/min. Driving at 100 km/h will use 100 cc/min or more. Idling will use around 15-20 cc/min

Yeah, you could possibly get around that issue by advancing the timing a bit so it has more time to burn. But each engine is different at cruise settings. Do you know if your ecu lets you tune by just adjusting your desired AFR once you have your volumetric efficiency table dialed in? Eg on the megasquirt once it is fully tuned all I have to do is say "I want 18:1 at this cruise region" and it automatically changes to that without having to check what the actual afr is and adjust stuff. Also, my AFR values could be complete bullshit as I am running a chinese LSU 4.9. But I think they are pretty good from the way the ECU gets the predicted fuel for each AFR value pretty much right.

Does your link system have auto tune? Just aim for lambda = 1 for any cruise settings (40-70 kPa, 2000 - 3500 rpm). You can adjust it after you have everything else set. 0.85-0.90 above 90 kPa everywhere and maybe a bit leaner for high vac everywhere, but 1 should be fine Around idle region 0.90-0.95 is good