Gee
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Gee last won the day on March 2
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Wouldn't lowering it just give more clearance underneath?
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Gidday @DRREMN, the Cougar looks cool. The clearance around the exhaust is not going to be fixed by moving the ram as far as I can tell, it is an issue with hitting the headers or frame as it moves lock to lock. The way the power valve works is the issue. If I was to mod it I'd chuck in a Borgeson Pwr steer kit. I've not heard great things about the Flaming River racks and I don't want to change the geometry in case I mess things up. The belts were fitted in 1998 according to the label but there is no cert. I'm not sure if it is required as the mounting points are stock but someone might know the regs better. There are some good kits and the 67 and later Mustangs (and I assume Cougars) have mounts in the roof for the belts so are much safer than retro fitting to 66 or earlier cars. I used a business called Auckland Seatbelts and he seemed to know his stuff. I asked about the rears as they are not inertial reel but the reels look a bit ugly sitting on the parcel shelf. The belts are great though. They do kinda ruin the pillarless look but I like having an inertia reel as I can take the wife and the dog for a cruise and everyone is belted in safely.
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The seatbelt guy turned up today. I actually freed up the belt by moving it 5deg but I replaced it anyway. Fitted in 1998 incase anyone was interested. Put the car in on a jaunty angle to make it easier to work on... Didn't take any photos of the install but it turned out better than my butchery. He had proper spacers and set it at a proper 60deg angle so it works without locking when it shouldn't. Mucked around to ensure it didn't interfere with the windows and all sorted. Before refitting the seat I decided to rip out my failed rivnuts holding in the bottom of the seat back. They didn't line up and cross threaded. I fitted a bigger 13mm bolt with a nut holding it in place as per photo Before after Chucked the seat back in and wound the nut on to hold it. The sheet metal is so thin I can realign the bolt with my hands. Works a treat. Just need to work out why the seat base rocks now. Not clicking in place and seems to be held up on the trans tunnel.
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The spanner is a good idea. I'll try that if I can't get the extension on.
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I think I can get the socket in the hole just not on the plug. I tried to sand the crap off it but a bit hard to access. The access is easy enough although the windsor plug point down compared to a clevo which the side of the head are upright. Tiny engine though so that makes it a bit easier. I used anti seize which will make them much easier next time. And not waiting 15 years.
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I got some new plugs and have to give Repco a bit of a pass on the parts. My engine takes an NGK BP5FS but they have only listed an AP5FS which is a direct replacement for the Autolite 45 that is recommended online by some people. Some engines take the little one though and mine seems to be one. There will be some guys here who know more than me so feel free to comment but at least I have the correct parts now. I had a hell of a time getting them out. I thought it would be a 20min job but 2hrs later... These clearly have not been replaced for a long time. They were pretty tight and the hex face very corroded. No massive fouling so that was a good sign but I'm not a plug whisperer. The last one proved too hard to get out. You can see how badly corroded the nut is and the hole is a bit tight. The header is also a bit close but that is not the real problem. I can get the socket on but I can't get it far enough engaged to work. It also get too close to the header pipe to get an extension on properly. If engaged I'd be able to do it but it is close. I may have to pass on this one for now. The leads were a pain as well. I haven't gotten a new set yet but they need to go. It gives a lot more confidence of a good connection when the boots stay in their proper location and the contacts click on and off nicely. I also decided to whip out the RH rear window regulator. I didn't get any pics of the job but the regulator was buggered. This was a brand new regulator which failed due to poor alignment by me. You can see the bent arm. The curves are too complex to try ans straighten out so I have a replacement. I got it fitted ok but then the RH front seat belt tensioner locked. Bloody deja vous. I thought I had freed it up and got the panel back together in time to head off and pick up the wifey from a friends place. She wanted me to take their kids for a drive so they piled in and the first thing one did was try and wind down the window, nooooo! Luckily I stopped that and then the front seatbelt locked again and won't free up. Fuckit. I'll need to swap it out. If I free it up again I can't trust it to work in future and I don't fancy having passengers with no belts.
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Got some supplies: Puled a plug Not terrible but not good either. Been there a while I reckon. I would replace it with the new plug I got but... Went to pull a plug based on the size of the new ones and wondered why my plug socket wouldn't go on. Got my smallest and it fit perfectly. Small v8, small plugs. Makes sense, not a lot of real estate in there. Big ass plugs don't fit. Bloody Repco.
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Took the Mustang for a drive to Raglan with some mates, all went pretty smooth but was very fumey again. A mate in another car complained about it although his is a 2014 Challenger so maybe he is not used to the smell of a carby V8. I did think it was a bit excessive though. Might have to do a bit of a check of a few things Tune. Never checked so it could be a bit rich plugs and leads vacuum PCV Headers. I notice the shop said I had a header leak around 18 months ago but I forgot about it and it has passed a warrant. Worth a look though. Windows. Don't at all and the RH rear quarter need a new regulator as it slides down. boot seal. First noticed it at Americarna just after the paint so it might have been fitted incorrectly. other leaks around the boot and luggage divider tail pipe length. Ideally they would protrude beyond the bumper. Don't think this is the reason as I didn't notice it when we bought it. I also still have a slight shimmy so I might check the trans output bush for play as I've replaced the other main culprits. Will have a go at a few things this weekend maybe.
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Got a bit of time to do a bit of wiring tidy up. I had left the alternator wiring a mess and ordered some fancy Painless Wiring split loom from Summit but I needed to get the light fixed for a warrant and ran out of time so I got the auto sparky to do it. they fixed an earth and another connector on the drivers side and i now have tow good lights. They also tidied up the loom without being asked. It looks ok but I'd prefer split loom to tape. When my gear turned up I didn't want to waste the good stuff for the 40cm to the solenoid so I just used some other junk I had lying around Put a boot on the alternator wire and a cover Probably should put a boot on the exposed +ve terminal on the solenoid as that pretty much runs the car. It does look a lot tidier. I also binned a random spade terminal and 3" wire off the coil. Not sure why that was there, I just removed it and put a ring terminal on the black wire. Not sure where it goes or why it follows a random route on the right hand side of the car. Maybe it broke years ago and was shortened. Took it for a test drive to Bombay and it ran mint. I'm not sure (of a lot of things apparently) what caused the fuminess when we drove to Americarna earlier in the year as we have done two big drives recently and had no issues. Runs mint and no abnormal smells, although that is relative in a 50 year old car.
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Thousand Dollar Supercar's 1988 Jaguar XJ-S 3.6
Gee replied to Thousand Dollar Supercar's topic in Project Discussion
Nice work on the diagnostics, not often old school guys dig out an O-scope. Cleaning up corrosion might not do much but dry joints or leaky capacitors might be a problem. There are a ton of discrete components on that board. Not sure what the component '21' is as I can't see the prefix but it looks like it has leaked so I'd replace that and probably D50 which is a diode. Since you know how to use an o-scope you probably know all this. Good luck. -
Warrant day and another fail, old car normal. The park brake is unbalanced which is common with these cars but I'm not sure if it is a cable or just brake drum imbalance. It also failed on the RH headlight. It works but is really dim. I got a new bulb but should have tested the voltage input first. Fitted the new bulb but no change. Turns out it is only getting 10Vdc where I assume the LHS is getting the full 12V. Must be a dodgy connection somewhere. I also got some side marker lights as the LH one was not working and actually had no wiring. I got both so they would look the same. Old vs new And good as with new lights fitted. So as usual, made some progress and didn't fix other things. Old school car tax.
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Strange how FiTechs can be either really good or a pain in the arse. I fitted one to my Fairmont as the Holley was giving me constant grief and the Fitech worked every time. I have heard about some quality issues though. Now I have a nice little Edelbrock carb with no choke that starts really easily and has nice throttle response (the Fairmont had neither) but I still have my FiTech system to fit. A Holley Sniper is probably a better system but spendy.
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How long does it take to change an alternator? I spent heaps of time waiting on parts and waiting on time to work on the car. Then it wouldn't start. I tested the solenoid on the bench and it didn't work so I ordered and fitted a new one, another thing to wait for. This is handy as it has better connections on each stud but it doesn't have a lot of room for extra connections and the Mustang uses the positive stud as the main power connector for the whole car. I had to move a few to the battery positive terminal which is a bit untidy. I still seemed to have odd power issues. The problem turned out to be a dead battery. Strange as it was new but does explain why I was having trouble with such a simple system. At least it is running but I have a bit of tidying up to do. Wire spaghetti always annoys me.
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Gee started following CXGPWR’s 1956 Ford F100 and Flash's 66 Mustang
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So slight change of plans. I don't have a warning light. I was right about the green and red wire but it goes to the ignition switch. sometimes this has a warning light in line but mine does not. The diagram below is from Motortrend for wiring a Ford 3G alternator but it is basically the same. It seems I can still wire it up without the bulb but I've got to work out how exactly. I may just 1 wire it and connect the rest later.
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Finally got a new alternator, an Aeroflow AF4273-1100 100A I'll be hooking this up '3-wire' which uses the warning light as an exciter and removing the stock external regulator. This gives me more ergs for upgrades later and the 3-wire hookup apparently makes it come on charge quicker. I may need to check the warning light later to see if it has a bypass resistor as without this the alternator will fail to come online if the bulb is blown. I was originally going to use the stock wiring but decided to bin it as it was untidy and would not carry enough current if I start to draw more than the stock power. The car also does not have alternator or battery fuses so I might add them later too but I want to work out a tidy install before I do that. I got it wired up on the bench and then looked at the car. First I took out the old regulator so I could work out what wires to remove They were buried in the main loom and used a wired molded plastic thingo you can just see in the last photo. Pain in the arse as I couldn't separate the wires without cutting this off. The loom was wire spaghetti so I also removed all of the wires from the started solenoid which is pretty much used as a positive terminal for everything. the wires I have are Black and yellow - power supply to fuse box Yellow - ammeter red - ammeter Red and blue - Starter switch Brown - odd extra wire to the solenoid that shorts it out. Was disconnected but can't quite work out what it does. Something to do with the coil and starting but not needed Black and red - ? Orange - regulator (removed) I could have thing wrong, the info online is a bit iffy and it changes with the year. I think the red/green wire from the regulator is the warning light but I can't confirm that. Might need a battery and a spare pair of eyes.