Tech Spam thread - because 1/4" BSP gets 5 hand spans to the jiggawatt

[h4nd]

Which kind? https://www.allcables4u.com/collections/internal-cd-dvd-audio-cables

@tortron

[tortron]

i managed to get one with free 2 speed cdrom. would you like a 2 speed cdrom

[h4nd]

Ah, I get it now.

Mentally, I was planning to make the ugliest jst/ molex adapter with the worst wire selection you'd ever seen, just for the LoLs.

Errr, no thanks. I need a CDROM of MS Encarta like I need....

Wait a minute, a body of knowledge from before the slop-AI-holic plague, you say?

[tortron]

15 minutes ago, h4nd said:

CDROM of MS Encarta like I need....

 

il pop it in the box for you!

[fletch]

Found a box of this type of shit at work. Still in the wrapper. 

Probably a couple of tips for ya @tortron

[tortron]

HIGHLY collectable tbh

[Nominal]

Does @sr2 still visit?

Rear brakes on the woodie have just started making some slight rubbing(?) noise when driving. Touching the brake pedal stops the noise.

Brakes seem to work fine when needed.

Had a look behind the wheels today and don't entirely like what I see on the disc wear pattern, but I'm not sure what it is caused by?

 

Both sides are similar.

The rear end is from a Falcon. According to some googling the calipers are XE/XF Fairmont and are particularly shitty to work on, and looking at the mounting, not that easy to swap for something different (+cert issues of course).

For now I'm just going to put the wheels back on, and maybe see if I can get some new discs somewhere.

 

[Mof]

Can you dti the disc? Make sure the disc/axle isn't bent or warped. Also I'd be checking the caliper slide pins are moving freely. 

Is there a wear mark on the disc on the opposite side from the not contacting part of the disc?

[cletus]

Looks like it's been sitting, and the discs have got rusty but only on half the disc?

Once they get pitting in the surface they never work right again 

[Nominal]

Just now, cletus said:

Looks like it's been sitting, and the discs have got rusty but only on half the disc?

Once they get pitting in the surface they never work right again 

It did sit for a few months in storage when I was doing the woodwork.

I'll dig out a dti and see what's up.

[Nominal]

8 hours ago, Mof said:

Can you dti the disc? Make sure the disc/axle isn't bent or warped. Also I'd be checking the caliper slide pins are moving freely. 

Is there a wear mark on the disc on the opposite side from the not contacting part of the disc?

About .004-.005", I think that should be OK?

The drivers side has a rusty patch on the inside but not quite in the same area as the outside.
 

I've pulled the sliders out from one side and they seem OK, will have a look at the other side tomorrow night.

 

 

 

 

[Beaver]

Had similar on modern car (dragging/squeal when rolling but goes away when touch the brakes). Went away after giving everything a good clean and grease the sliders etc. 

[sr2]

On 27/07/2025 at 10:29, Nominal said:

Does @sr2 still visit?

Rear brakes on the woodie have just started making some slight rubbing(?) noise when driving. Touching the brake pedal stops the noise.

Brakes seem to work fine when needed.

Had a look behind the wheels today and don't entirely like what I see on the disc wear pattern, but I'm not sure what it is caused by?

 

Both sides are similar.

The rear end is from a Falcon. According to some googling the calipers are XE/XF Fairmont and are particularly shitty to work on, and looking at the mounting, not that easy to swap for something different (+cert issues of course).

For now I'm just going to put the wheels back on, and maybe see if I can get some new discs somewhere.

 

LOL, yeah I’m still lurking around. I think the other posters have done a great job answering your question, I agree with Cletus re: the corrosion.  I’d start with measuring the rotors and if within spec find someone with an on-car brake lathe to give it a small lick. On-car machining can compensate for small runout issues on older vehicles and a used rotor having been through numerous heat cycles can be (arguably) more stable than something off the shelf. Yes single pot/floating callipers are a manufacturing/cost compromise but if well setup I’ve never had an issue with them. Make sure the sliders a free, lubricated and importantly the pins are at right angle to the rotors.

[Raizer]

I was sure there was a thread about air compressors on here, but I can't find it ha

So, anyone running a Tool Shed brand compressor?
If so, are they any good?
I haven't been able to find much in the way of reviews online on them, pretty sure they are Chinese made but the one I'm looking at seems to be pretty decently built, at least externally lol

 

Specifications
Motor Size - 4 HP (15 Amp Plug)
Cylinders - 3
Motor Speed - 2850 RPM
Pump Speed - 900 RPM
Tank Size - 70 Litres
Displacement - 15.9 CFM | 450 LPM
Free Air Delivery @ 100 PSI - 11.3 CFM | 320 LPM
Voltage - 230 Volts | 50 Hz
Net Weight - 81 kg
Rated Duty Cycle: 60/40 On/Off

 

 

Been using a decent Air Command with Italian pump on it for about 20 years now, but got a bit slack draining it thanks to the fiddly little drain port and yeah it's rusted and cracked the tank.

[RUNAMUCK]

I havent used one personally,

But tool shed branded stuff is usually good enough for trade. 

(Better than the Temu quality trash Topmaq peddle)

[Raizer]

Just realized it's listed as "professional" and has a full 3 year warranty, sure beats the 12 months you get with a lot of Chinese made compressors.
Free air delivery specs are slightly better from the Tool Shed one than what it'd be replacing, extra 20l tank + continuous mode should help it keep up with my sand blaster too.

It has a 14a rated motor on it, @chris r did a photo based inspection of my shed wiring and said to "fit a 15a socket then send it" so think I'm good there ha (Not that I've always ran a 13a rated compressor with a filed down earth or anything...)
 

[fletch]

1 hour ago, Raizer said:

, but got a bit slack draining it thanks to the fiddly little drain port and yeah it's rusted and cracked the tank.

Go down to your local hoseshop and buy a 3/8 ball valve and a couple of fittings to get rid of that drain port and a bit of tube to take it outside of your environment and give it a send every now and then to blow the water out.

Shouldn't cost more than $50 for the parts 

[tortron]

22 minutes ago, fletch said:

Go down to your local hoseshop and buy a 3/8 ball valve and a couple of fittings to get rid of that drain port and a bit of tube to take it outside of your environment and give it a send every now and then to blow the water out.

Shouldn't cost more than $50 for the parts 

This was my job for a bit, but they replaced them with automatic ones. Bluddy automation m8

 

 

[Raizer]

56 minutes ago, fletch said:

Go down to your local hoseshop and buy a 3/8 ball valve and a couple of fittings to get rid of that drain port and a bit of tube to take it outside of your environment and give it a send every now and then to blow the water out.

Shouldn't cost more than $50 for the parts 

Have actually got a ball valve and 90° fitting on another old tank* I've got here, will be fitting to whatever new compressor I end up with for sure! 

The air command had a small threaded outlet for the drain with a tiny little brass screw, so fiddly to use that I didn't drain it anywhere near as often as I should have 

 

*Old school tool shed 50l I've had sitting under the bench for years waiting to be linked to my compressor to double the storage, went to swap my pump etc over onto it the other day and it's got a LOT of flaky rust rattling around inside it so it's pretty fucked too.

[Sunbeam]

2 hours ago, Raizer said:

I was sure there was a thread about air compressors on here, but I can't find it ha

So, anyone running a Tool Shed brand compressor?
If so, are they any good?
I haven't been able to find much in the way of reviews online on them, pretty sure they are Chinese made but the one I'm looking at seems to be pretty decently built, at least externally lol

 

Specifications
Motor Size - 4 HP (15 Amp Plug)
Cylinders - 3
Motor Speed - 2850 RPM
Pump Speed - 900 RPM
Tank Size - 70 Litres
Displacement - 15.9 CFM | 450 LPM
Free Air Delivery @ 100 PSI - 11.3 CFM | 320 LPM
Voltage - 230 Volts | 50 Hz
Net Weight - 81 kg
Rated Duty Cycle: 60/40 On/Off

 

 

Been using a decent Air Command with Italian pump on it for about 20 years now, but got a bit slack draining it thanks to the fiddly little drain port and yeah it's rusted and cracked the tank.

I’ve got one in black. GHFWII. I’m very happy with it. There’s two versions (there were 7 years ago) I cheaped out and bought a standard one, but there was a continuous run model too, which I would buy if shopping again.