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So got a bit distracted with local rotary travel and a rotary storage workshop. First things first, I priced up materials for re-upholstery and bought some tools and foam before realising nobody would just do a stitch job basically wanted all or nothing. So we went to Stephen's old mate who offered a completely mind-boggling irresistible cash price job, so took him up on that offer. He even had the exact fabric. Got the rears back already and they needed completely re-doing due to the heat damage cracking the top piece and subsequently shrinking the fabric elsewhere. So meanwhile we've been busy fiddling around stripping it out completely of wiring, brake lines, and most of the underseal except that one spot over the tunnel that you leave until last and when last comes you go 'why on earth did I leave the worst bit til last' so you just never ever touch it again... someone want a job?? Mostly it's in great condition, although once we finally ground off the welds holding the guards to the body (first WTF moment) we found the RHS front had significant damage as bad as to completely crumple the crush tube and crease the engine bay. The damage is a bit of a financial set-back and obviously means a bigger job for compliance, so it did then require blasting and prep to be repaired. Bonus find this time round, a charming ring down in the door panel over the lock. As things go, I had it set up and masked off to blast myself, and then the compressor died. So after looking around I found C.A. Levien in Henderson to give the underneath, inner guards, engine bay, windscreen channels, and rear quarter rust patches a blast. Yes, everything except the great patina and heinous tagging. (my least favourite side, with BB gun dents and what appears to be acid damage). Even the sandblasters they thought it was hilarious to save the patina, but they made such a huge improvement on the car it actually looks purposeful now. Highly recommended, they even stored it away in it's own shed. The rear quarters were only 5% worse than expected, the underneath is absolutely fantastic, and the weird panel under rear windscreen that was mysteriously primer is happily not bog and is solid steel. Kyle was kind enough to take and send me some pictures of the process too: So after a year of ownership it was transported off again on Monday to it's new temporary home. Thankfully we found an old school repairer who will be able to save it without us finding a new front cut. From what I understand, he will cut from firewall and slowly pull the front back into original shape, beating out the creases. While it's there I may gain the fucks needed to finish off the underseal and chuck some durepox over it but probably won't. He'll also be teaching me a mix of painting and airbrushing to get the touched quarters back to their patina best. And I'll pull apart the twin dizzy to see what the options are. That's all for now folks.

The wheels went out to Pine engineering. I was not stoked with the old fasteners. One lip was suspect. Actually a lot of stuff not real flash. I was not disappointed I had them done by Pine either.

Drivers door complete and only the boot lid to go and body work finished. Still trial fitting parts etc and once done it is off for the final blast and prime then off to paint.

Haters gonna hate.. but i LOVE the 80s/90s drag look. Test fit (was hard as suspension arms werent retained by anything) to see if i need a narrowed beam. I do.

yea sorry this build has gone faster than my spare time to write out the next post. so for the mean time i would like to show you what you can achieve in 11 days after work doing a few hours here and a few hours there. A huge thanks to Paul. now dont worry i will go into detail on what we have done and how i went about it all, but i feel the need to show you guys and gals this. Cheers team, we might just be driving George the kombi over the Easter & Anzac break.

Got them early currently they are in the motel room with me.. too paranoid to leave in back of ute, lol.

Thanks man! Well, thats the big tick done - WOF Complete! Failed as expected but only on the reflectors and he had some on deck so brought those off him. Happy with that result I rode it home from the mechanics which was approx. 15 minutes on the highway. Initial thoughts are it feels small.. A bit like a gorilla on a rollerskate haha Felt good at 100kms an hour. It's got a "speed" light that comes on at around 85kms an hour which is a big red light.. Thats got to go because even though I know about it, it still makes me heart skip a beat thinking there is an oil issue. Needs a good clean, a couple little things here and there but otherwise it's a cool little bike! The "build" isn't over yet. I've just brought a new house which has a garage (woop!) so i'll be able to get it up on a lift and have more room to work with which I am super excited about. Cheers to all tho have followed so far and have been interested in the process so far - appreciate it

New cables arrived and seem to fit all good. Also got a set of these badboys. Essentially Motogadget knockoffs - definitely the nicest made product I've ever purchased off Ali!

^This

Hi I managed to find a full engine gasket set from the us so I've ordered one of them which will turn up next month.. Have been cracking on with putting the interior back together I'm needing a few trim clips/door card clips I guess they look like P shaped? Also the plastic circles that slot into the inner door skins so will see if can purchase some new ones. Cheers

well thats the fan,oil cooler and front suppprt panel done. Had to cut more oit of the front.(fuck all between the lights now) Added some strengthening to the panel Even just tacked in the front feels stronger and still more to go. Its a bit tight behind it but i can still get the gan and oil cooler in and out fine. Can still get ghe grill on and a 70mm rad in and still have all the engine bay left.

shit update but picking up my new wheels on thursday. Super happy as somehow managed to find exactly what i wanted, with tires and for an affordable price. Hopefully I can get this thing rolling over easter MANY EXCITE.

all working now. 2019-04-15_08-43-48 by sheepers, on Flickr

I got me an air filter, just fits, hits the mudguard under full compression or full lock, but good enough. Also got a stand alone throttle, might bend the bend in the cable to straighten it up a bit. Couldn't find the banjo fittings I needed for the oil cooler, so cut up the std lines and a pair of hydraulic fittings from work. Easy flowed them together, neat. Fitted the oil cooler lines, fuel line and a few other bits n bobs (after stripping it to paint parts of the frame) and decided to play around with the wiring. Then realized there was no reason not to start it, so had a crack. 3 kicks and it was away. Haven't played with the carb, but it seems to run well and is super responsive/crisp. Muffler needs some packing or something, as it's stupid loud, which is understandable as it's just a ribbed tube at the moment. One thing I haven't worked out, is what these wire are for. They seem to put out about 4-5 volts at idle, and come out of the CDI. I was hoping one was the AC (charge coil?) out put, but that wouldn't come from the CDI would it? I think my motor may not have a charge coil, which I'll have to remedy. Yeh wires make no sense to me, lols. Regards, V "electronically impotent" G.

Interesting. I use KY jelly when pulling cables thru bars etc, cos it's water based and doesn't affect insulation. Have also used hair spray to install grips, as slides on wet and it dries tacky. Just had vision of burly blokes buying talcum powder, hair spray and KY at supermarket for their bike projects...

Woah....been awhile since I updated this. Got some notifications.... This has been sold onto a dude in Auckland, reluctantly. . .Been building a Z31 300zx turbo since and recently acquired a 910 hardtop 4 door. I'll be creating build threads for these at some stage

Have decided to use a water air intercooler this time , I'm going to mount it in the passenger side footwell/ up against the firewall where the heater was This means the intercooler pipes can be somewhat hidden. I'll run a pipe from the turbo under the rh guard thru the firewall . Out of the intercooler there will be a pipe thru the hole where the wiper motor was, straight into the carb hat This meant I had to shift the wiper motor to inside the car under the dash which is also a bonus cause it's very ugly. So I mucked around for ages getting the position right and made this thing. Shit update but it's progress at least...

Did front wheel bearings, bought new front beam bearings, some other random stuff, new front calipers, greg has some new front brake hoses for me and so once i get some wheels and a new front spring pack (some of my leafs were broken) i can get it on the ground and rolling. A few things before its drive time but lists getting shorter Wheels, steering box, rear side windows, window seals, motor off @64valiant and be sweet for a drive i think i also bought a turbo legacy as a donor for a one-day engine swap dream project. Thw legacy was being sold by a mate for $750 with blown trans and 140,000km, seemed like a bargain and couldn't help it.

Hondas been leaking fuel for about a year now from the fuel tank, it was a slow seep which was annoying and was mostly soaked up by the foam in the seat which stunk of gas. Also the pipes which share each side of the tank were blocked and leaking. Basically this tank has had hack after hack fixes with solider, JB weld etc... Safety first, pumped exhaust through it for about 15mins to get rid of the petrol fumes. Drilled out the old share pipes and mounted the threaded steel boss. Leak came from under the mount bracket, didn’t have a spot weld bit so just went hard with a normal bit. Pretty mank under the bracket, no paint in there so wasn’t a surprise it rusted. Welded up the holes but I reckon I’ll get the rest Tig welded as my Mig isn’t great at sealing up fuel tight. Decided on painting it, need to strip the POR15 liner as it was fkd and coming apart in the tank so I covered the whole tank inside and out in stripper. Will be repainted in black 2k

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/CNC-Momentary-Latching-Switch-Aluminium-Alloy-Switch-Motorcycle-Cafe-Race-Handle-Grips-Reset-Buttons-For-Honda/32844235133.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.5fb84c4dskXaG1 They're not cheap! You can also choose latching or momentary buttons when you purchase. I'm using momentary to work alongside an M-Unit. And good question. I will be using a Motogadget M-Unit to wire the motorcycle which takes care of most of the below functions. Here's an idea on how I think will run them. Left side Top button: Left indicator. Press to start, press to stop. Will time out after 30sec. Bottom button: Horn. Back button: M-Unit Config. Right side Top button: Right indicator. Press to start, press to stop. Will time out after 30sec. Bottom button: Headlight. Always on. Tap to flash highbeam, hold down to turn on highbeam. Hold down longer to turn headlight off. Back button: Not assigned as of yet. Maybe electric starter if I decide to get that working or a momentary kill switch. Hope that all makes sense!

So last Saturday i headed out to the v-dub shoppe to make a start on my engine. Paul was kind enough to work late and help me out. This is my engine and everything that is ment to go with it. inc the two boxes on the floor. I get all the bitch type jobs, clean this, clean that, and yeah clean that as well. so start with cleaning the crank. a little scotch in the cleaning tub and then we rinse it off with hot water. want to know why we use hot water? well hot water evaporates and doesn't leave any residue and wont rust. unlike cold water. now that that's done onto the casing. this has been machined out to fit the larger barrels and pistons to make it a 1776 so yeah lets crack it open see how many peaces of raw material i can find. oh hello. this stuff has gone everywhere. see if you can spot the peace tucked away here. that little peace of silver on the oil pick up is what you are looking for, well now that they are all cleaned up out side to wash these down with cold water. cause these are not steel and they wont rust away. hey presto we looking good now. 1st things 1st. dizzy gear in. i didn't snap a photo of this but here is one off the net. with that lubed up and in place the dizzy goes in over top. while i was putting that in Paul was putting the bearings in and making sure they lined up and marking them to make our life easier for when the crank slides in. i have also slid on 6 little rubber gaskets over the main bolts. bearing 1st. cam gear next, with some heat slid on over and sitting in place with its key way in next is distributor drive gear. my key way was a little lose, luckily we were in the right place and a few steps to the left was a container with a bunch of them in, found one that fitted better. some heat on this and on it went. bearings for the rods and on they go now. no photo of this stage my hands fill and doing other things but lets drop that on in in she goes and lined up Pauls pink dots and dropped the cam in as well. so far the only things out of the old engine are the gear peaces on the crank and the dizzy, even the dizzy drive was in a pile of other parts to the left of me that Paul just pulled out of old stuff. The rods and cam are from another purchase of parts i ended up with including the bearings and all the gaskets. Next Paul swears at his employees for leaving his gasket goo with out a lid and we put some goo on the casing and he drops the other side of the block on. finds some nuts that should come with the casing and he torques them up. its bloody handy having a store room the size he has, off i went find myself some lock nuts, re stock the draw in the engine build section. they get thrown at the engine and torqued up but to a smaller amount. sump on and well bake to the store room to find some dome nuts for the sump plug and the mesh for in side that, and a stud kit for the fuel pump, oil pump and a few other things. actually here is a photo of the kit, thanks google ahh while this was up side down we also dropped these in. which i learnt the other day is a duel pressure relief, vw casings come out duel and single, only early ones come out single. ended up watching a YouTube video of how it works and where they are. if you want to learn here is the video i watched it was a pretty good Saturday learning and building the new engine. last night i headed in and done some more work. removed all the head studs while Paul was on the phone and cleaned them up, he then came down and gave me some shit about how i didn't get the fly wheel and shims ready for him, few seconds later he had them, he worked out the end float and put some shims in allowing some small amount of thou. he was also trying to calculate out loud and man that shit was confusing as fuck to me. with that all sorted i now have the fly wheel and we are off to get skimmed and it has a really nasty lip where the rear main seal would usually sit so ill take that to geophfey and get him to take the lip off that. all in all shes been a great few days so far.

More progress with gapping the doors bonnet and boot. All welded back together again. Trial fitting allthe exterior body parts to check all good and also fitting the front and rear screens and rear quarter windows to check new rubbers all work.

Slow work on the headers but are coming along.

Work on the scamp has been on the back burner a little bit lately. However a chap in my Hot rod club was in need of some 318 engine parts, so I removed the factory 2 barrel intel manifold and rebuilt carb, I could’ve stopped there but I was at a loose end so I decided to pull a head. Looks like it’s had a pretty poor service history it’s fairly black and gunky inside nothing seems overly worn however Pistons have no markings to indicate being oversized It has a small ring ridge which it to be expected, but a quick vernier of the bore (albeit on the ring ridge) shows 3.89”, stock bore should be 3.91” so looks to be stock bore heads are standard open chamber heads. Factory sized valves 1.78” in 1.5” exh. Obviously until I get it on the engine stand and drop the pants off there maybe a different story but at this point it looks like a good base to start a build with.