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and after doing battle with the welder all day I got fed up and left it there. Have a patch tacked into last picture.

Tuatapere Riverton

Nightcaps Ohai I've never seen someone more excited seeing a sheep than Nick was...

My first OS meet. A great day out. Good to meet a few other members irl and put faces to names. Big thanks to @Toddy415 and Mrs Toddy for allowing me to ride along in the wags and to @kiwi808 for shouting me chips and a beer at Riverton.

That Moa sales rep is a knob jocky. He's my missus best friends partner. Yeah pointless contribution to this thread I know, but yeah.

Car passed cert. Ended up getting the factory shocks shortened and putting them in, also lifted it a little bit. Cert plate showed up yesterday, passed wof and got rego. So as of yesterday the car is road legal. Had some little rust spots tidied up on just to smooth it off. Now that I'm driving it I've find a few little bits that I need to tidy up. There is a hole where the factory handbrake lever was thats letting hot air through, one of the springs is knocking in the back under load, not sure why and I want to put factory engine mounts back in. The polyurethane ones in it now cause everything to vibrate so much.

There are a few reasons why you guys may be having drill issues these days. Eg, today you can buy extremely powerful battery powered tools that can spin a drillbit way too quickly. You can also have the ability to buy cheap Chinese junk that probably didn't exist in the olden days. You get what you pay for! Same with taps...a $100 set that covers every size is going to be crap compared to a single $25 tap of reputable make. If all else fails then maybe you just suck at sharpening drill bits.

500km door to door round trip! @igor @Nick Ritchie @Toddy415 @kyteler @kiwi808 Thanks and look forward to the next one. Check out my awesome clipart skills! You are welcome

Rant away, I completely agree with you. I'm just trying to be neutral by posting it up so that members can make their minds up. I have a couple of cars that are suitable but zero interest in putting them forward.

Another premo day good to meet some new faces cheers guys

So if you were wondering what those things do, they are 3" travel hydro bumpstops. If there are any hidden objects hidden in the grass, whilst rounding up the cows. these will prevent occupants of said vehicle, from cranium to moldy hood lining contact. or just doing skiz cunt jumps. pretty much overkill for this truck, but while im under there..

after riving this all week the noise from the diff was driving me fucking mental! so swapped the diff out today ...pulled the head from the newish diff and cleaned it all up....used some brand new gear oil and repacked the bearings. also mix matched the best brake parts from both diff and adjusted them so the hand brake only takes 2 clicks......perfect. and oh so QUIET i then bleed the back brakes and the fluid was fucking disgusting ....so i then flushed and bleed all the air and water out of the front and ran some dot4 fluid threw out......much better now. i then had a play with some old cutting compound i had sitting in the garage for about a decade and combined with a buffer and sponge pad ive had since my old man sold his shop..(maybe 15+ years)....the paint is very this and i couldnt go hard out but even getting all the oil hand marks off was a bonus... looks much better now.

it's all a consumer conspiracy. i'm yet to come across a home garage spec chinese drill press that runs at slow enough speeds to not overheat drill bits, thus leading the DIYer into fits of rage having to replace drillbits all the time. whereas the old Dyco drillpress i have, can even make round holes with cheap chinese drillbits

Cutting fluid. Dont forget to use it. Makes a big difference. But nah even the "expensive" drill bits aren't as good as the old stuff. Its like something they used to add to the steel (or didn't add??) Was deemed unhealthy? So they stopped or something and now the steel isn't as hard/good. Had a $50 drill bit (a single bit) and after about 6 or 7 cuts it was virtually dead. Cutting fluid and correct speed used. Was in a drill press, so no weird side loads/angles during drilling either. After a resharpen it was ok for 2 cuts before needing another sharpen..

She's a bit foggy and cold today. Nice weather for ducks! (Can't shot'em if you can't see'em)

I rarely use more than half throttle in 1st on my battery drill when drilling steel. Once the bit starts cutting it'll chew through in no time.

I sometimes use a brace with a twist bit to drill steel thereby ensuring a slow speed that will not burn out the bit. Did a bit of track laying on a museum railway once too. We drilled the fishplate bolt holes with the same hand tool technology that would have been used in the 19th century. Pretty sure the tools we were using were older than all of us including the retired guy who knew what to do.

Barry wont have any metric though

Go find an old Barry's garage/estate sale and buy all his drill bits and files. I did that a few times now have few hundred kilos of old tools lol. Far better than todays shite

As someone who works in advertising I find people like this offering contra for a central prop, especially with such a big company, pretty shit. front up with some cash you pricks.

Few more details of stuff. Decided I needed a collapsable flagpole.... searched around on the internet a bunch for something that didn't suck, then realized I already owned the perfect thing. For those here who aren't back country skiers... it's an avalanche probe, essentially a thick tent pole with a spike on the end. I just cable tied the flag to it and it all folds up and rolls into the sleeve it comes in. Perfect. Changed out one of the grommets for a sport climbing bolt hanger so I didnt have to unthread the cam buckle strap every time. Yes... I realize it isn't a rated carabiner and the bolt hanger should pull down ... Window nets that rebecca made. There is also a big one for the side doors. The strip magnets don't hold for s#!%, glad I have the circle ones. The rear ones also are bolted through the hinge. Little ties to hold them up. Cargo net in the back. The tan bag is our sleeping bag. For anyone who wants a bada$$ two person backpacking bag I'm a huge fan of the Nemo Tango Duo, it allows the two of us to carry one less bag and weighs no more than one normal bag, 800fill down and backless. The window nets and flag pole live in the cargo net as well when not being used. The flags were brought to me last month from a friend who was in India. Some pics of the roof in use Needed a place to stand so I stole this idea from someone on Expedition Portal to use cut down ute loading ramps. Now I need to figure out what to do with the second ramp since they are only really useful in pairs... freebie if you pick it up to anyone who wants it. Had the van out for its first shakedown overnight run at Cunningham Falls State Park. We were the only people there. It of course rained, but I was very very happy with the ARB awning, we were still able to cook outside. Also took it out to a local horse race last weekend, Maryland Hunt Cup. The tailgating area was full of yuppies so I picked the coolest looking guy I could to park next to. The other guys van was more of a tail gaiting rig, he pretty much spends all weekend driving between porting events, but he did have a removable bed platform. He had only finished it a few months ago so we chatted a bunch about our builds, cool guy. Lots of TV lots of sound Lots of batteries Lots of amps and lots of air for an air horn

So the last thing i need right now is another project, but this came up for far to good of a deal to pass up on so i jumped on it. Its just parked in my parents shed and will stay like this for a while until i save up some money to throw at it / get other projects out of the way / have spare time. But keen to start hoarding some parts soon anyway. So as it is, its a 1986 BMW R80 G/S. Shes pretty rough, but runs mint. It was stolen and recovered and has a broken ignition and rattle can paint and has sat outside for a year or two and is pretty tatty. I went to the cop shop and verified the last registered owner and have a letter from him and the cops so hopefully revin shouldn't be too much drama. Does anyone have any experience revinning a modified bike? I love how its a GS as it has spoked wheels which i think is lush, im unsure if this is a genuine Paris Dakar model as they usually had a dirt bike type front guard and a single man seat with extra rack, this does however have a genuine Paris Dakar model 32l tank, under the paint it sill has the original decals which can be seen on the shitty facebook photo from the ad. anyway here is bike- At this stage i am totes unsure about which direction to go, at first a thought maybe restore to original adventure spec and do lush rides like this - but then i thought nahhhhh cos its missing a few original things like the pack racks, ignition, hi rise exhaust and that just does't look so coooool. At the moment im pretty sold on doing a scrambler build, but still road legal and comfy and complete enough so some awesome touring rides. Id like to keep stock airbox. At the moment im just unsure if ill keep the Paris Dakar tank (which is very large and may be hard to get the whole bike matching it when scrambler spec and actually look lush) or go down to a normal sized R80 tank. Id be pretty keen to keep the dakar colours with the white tank and orange seat. here is some inspiration anyway, also, please tell me all of the things, i am new to these airhead thingys / never built a bike before

A friend of mine is bringing a few cars out for a car display/show that a local Barry has organised. Said friend has an E type Jag, Sierra RS500 Cosworth, Mazda RX3, Lotus Cortina etc and many other cars that will be displayed. It's on from 9am this Sunday the 7th of May at The Papakura Club, 5 Croskery Road Papakura. Feel free to go down for a look or to take your own Oldschool car too. They're a good bunch of people and welcome all. 9am onwards if you'd like to display a car or 10am onwards if you want to come down for a look.

niceto have you tag along @igor next time more falcon wags eh.

What a lush meet. Thanks to all for attending, such a awesome part of the country to explore!

started on the other side today. i'm actually fed up now of finding more rust. i know its a ford but christ the way these are put together is nuts. the double skins, dirt and water traps,, and different channels and areas between panels that make no sense. anyway i'm just fed up of not being able to get to the part i want to fix in the first place yet! lol. i'm not going to work on it tomorrow i'm going up to hopefully remove an lsd rear disk axle. we shall see how that pans out. i made this side! came out well. proof we did this bit too! and with the front end welding finished i was able to give it a quick tidy up, etch prime any bare metal and then put stonechip on. it wont happen yet but i think i'm ready to fit the wings and align them for paint. progress! potato spec pics today sorry. til next week....

I've starting stripping the 300 it's got an oil cooler so that would give the required oil line for turbos. The front CVs are a bugger to remove from the front diff. But I googled it and found the way. Just a crow bar and hammer and they re off .

Just plugged a 10.5mm hole through a broken m8 stud and 4mm stainless with no worries. CDT and slow speed wins the day.

Hmm weird, mine definitely doesn't have 17digits, I wire brushed it all and the extra digits didn't appear I know its 1990+ as the voltage regulator is shown in the manual as being the 1990+ version. I'd be keen to turbo mine if I could find an oil supply to feed the turbo with - I've got a few tiny turbos laying around

I hate to agree with Nathan, but he's right to a point. I often find I can drill a hole quicker by pulsing the trigger. And that is the very reason why u haven't bought a cheap set of taps and dies. Cheap nasty ones cut awful threads too.

Yep. The world's fucked mate.

I didn't know Holden or Ford made beetles.

I haven't done too well at photographing progress on this thing as it's my daily and I'm usually just trying to get the job done with as little fuss as possible but I made sure I got photos of the panel repairs. When I bought the car it had a big square dent with a tear below it in the sill. I don't know for sure but I suspect that it fell off a jack at some point and punched in the sill. Initially the panel beater thought the dent could be pulled out and a small patch welded in but unfortunately there was some rust on either side of the dent so we bit the bullet and cut the lot out. I stupidly didn't take a before photo but I'm very pleased with the quality of the repair and it's nice to know there's steel there and not just bog! I still need to fit the chrome trim to the sill and then that's one more thing off the list. Discuss here:

Probably time for a little update on the Trumpy. So the new engine is currently being built up from an old PI motor that was lying around in a garage down south. Basic details are .40 thou over, forged pistons, Newman cam, lightened flywheel, balanced pistons/rods and rotating bits, 10:1 comp, extractors, and the EFI setup based on the old PI bodies. There is also a power steering rack and pump getting the treatment in town which will go in at the same time... Please enjoy some pictures

This tip was recommended on another site for removing reluctant hubs :- "If you undo the rear hub nut a turn or so, then drive the car around the yard a bit - especially going from 1st to reverse a few times - the horsepower will do the job for you, and loosen the hub from its taper. If it works - and most do - you can jack the car up and disassemble the brake drum etc, remove the axle nut and simply slide the hub off - no 20 ton press required. This allows removal of the axle and bearing in a very straightforward manner."

Me too. Last time i tried going somewhere i ended up on the coromandle.

I'm stoked you're making plans for him.

Had bias valve mount laser cut. Clamped it in vice and folded legs with a hammer. Drilled out holes and tapped. It fits.

Shitty Update: The Z31 is STILL at compliance place, it needs: LR wheel bearing, steering rack leak fixed, 2 front tires, wiper blades, brake pedal pad. I went to see it yesterday, still hadnt been up on the hoist. A bit frustrated with how long its taken. It had to get a repair cert for a few things, old repairs and fixing some rust and floor pan damage, it all looks super lush under neath now as its been resealed. Couple of pics for an otherwise lame update

I dont have anything in particular to say right now, except for that I've started working at HP Academy in Queenstown. I have learned a mind blowing amount of stuff from Andre and co already. Motec M150 is just some next level shit. Sheezus. With the M150 you can write your own code for the firmware, today we were trying idea of IMAP / EMAP as a load axis. (intake manifold pressure divided by exhaust manifold pressure pre turbo) Which is a bit of a mind bender to me but apparently this compensates for VE changes etc relating to altitude and turbine efficiency way better than just MAP or MGP. Next step is to take the GT86 for a hoon up a mountain and see how well the AFR stays on target. I'm not sure if it's obvious from this post yet but holy crapping Christ. What a company to work for. The other day Tony Quinn's Pikes peak car was in for a tune before heading off again. It runs a VR38DETT mid mounted, runs two turbos > two intercoolers > two plenums (connected with a balance pipe) Looking at the intercoolers with the thermal camera we found a 20 degree temp difference left to right. Some more poking around from there and we found that one of the intercooler hose clamps was loose, so intercooler on that side had lower mass flow so lower temp. TL;DR: This thing is a fucking weapon, Andre got another 100hp out of it just with tuning. Same boost. ~950kg and now ~605hp atw with plenty of head room. Just stopped there because he wasnt sure if it will still be drivable, going to Highlands for testing on Saturday.

More positive post

mounts all on the diff for good. cant paint over the chrome..

all gone. 2017-04-22_02-37-50 by sheepers, on Flickr

Waste of timber doing that. It wooden go very fast

currently im pulling the old house down piece by piece. first was the removing of the interior linings. 2017-03-17_11-43-02 by sheepers, on Flickr 2017-03-19_02-26-52 by sheepers, on Flickr 2017-03-19_02-27-12 by sheepers, on Flickr 2017-03-20_04-58-56 by sheepers, on Flickr

No photos just quick update. Was doing some little maintenance things on the car. One of which involved fixing 4 leaks in the intake system. Once that was done, the car wouldn't run or idle or anything anymore. Went through so many different things trying to fix (injectors, CAS, replacing AFM, fuel pressure/fuel pump) turns out the guy I bought the motor off gave me the wrong AFM. (I bought one with the same part number) $40 later I had the right one and it runs primo. Replaced rear springs with 5kg rears. Looks like I had 8's in it which is why it was so hard riding. and big news; Cert booked for next week. nearly 7 years and it's almost legal.

Got the pedal box mounts finished. firewall mount is the back plate off the original pedal box with new brackets welded too it. picks up 7 bolts in the firewall, along with the top mount which picks up the last 2 factory pedal box holes, its solid as shit Was fairly straight forward compared to the setup in the starlet. since Hilux has a separate mount for the steering column, But that also meant the fluid reservoirs had to be remote mounted, since said steering column cross brace was in the way. I had originally planned mounting them in the engine bay, but lack of fall said that idea was a fail. which was making me think the whole thing was a fail. but eventually come up with this.. Stuff sticking through the dash is yuck. but. This thing used to have the roll and alt meter thing that alot of 4wd's have. will put a blank face in it to cover it all up. Just need to plumb it up and hope my master cylinder sizes are correct. Cant wait to try this out on some 4wd Barry's. Hopefully it will shoot some flames on the limiter

Cleaned up all the sharp edges and went back to bare steel on the important glued faces then painted everything in epoxy. Finally glued into place. There's also rivets top and bottom where they can't be seen. The washers were glued onto the new panel so that the two edges were easy to align.. I'll knock them off when the glues dried and all the rivets are in.