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BLIZZO

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About BLIZZO

  • Rank
    batteries charged
  • Birthday 06/11/1987

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Making beer, drinking beer, pouring oil into my triumph, cleaning oil off my garage floor

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  • Local Area
    Manawatu

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  1. Yea I picked up over 2 m2 of well seasoned plum a week ago so have that stacked away for a start. will start cutting some manuka from sources I have though work to add to the pile.
  2. During lockdown the wife I went down a rabbit hole of watching American barbeque shows, and man some of that stuff looked delicious. have been to a couple of bbq joints in NZ and def a fan of the old low and slow so thought id ignore all the sensible advice of starting with a weber kettle and go straight to a wood hungry offset. I had a look at some of the "decent" off the shelf options such as the prime smoke XL and Oklahoma Joe highlander but they are still made with poo thin 2.5mm mild steel and have lots of design flaws that would require modifications to get to a decent spec anyway.
  3. Yea I made the panniers as far forward as I could, the weight is all forward of the rear axle which shouldn’t make it too bad. Dunno I’ll try the smaller front end and see how I go, might get a few ponies back without ass much tyre weight anyway
  4. End result was good other than it drooping a bit during welding. Turns out although the muffler looks cool it sounds like a TRX350 ie shit, so will be getting a nice small stainless one from overseas long boi air filter sorted and started playing around with bag positioning, wanted to get them as far forward as possible bent up some 16mm tube in my little bender that i got specifically for making pannier racks Buzzed them up with my poo MIG then dropped at powdercoaters added a wee tool box that i picked up from an old bike shop selling off some shit. f
  5. got bloody busy trying to get this thing finished in time so didnt do any updates, might as well fill ya'll in now. So i went to put the engine back together and noticed the little end of the rod and gudgeon were toast. Rather than do down the rabitt hole of getting a new rod i took the crank to my local machine shop and for a mere $50 they honed out the little end and the piston, then machined an oversized gudgeon pin and she was all hoki mai. That meant I could get stick into throwing it all together. When doing so I also noticed the gear shift spline was coozed, so
  6. so the cam on this thing was a bit farked, so I ordered a good second hand XR200r cam off a reputable honda parts supplier Quick look at the lobes you can see it has less duration so must be a limp dick cam from an XL or CTX200 or something, he took it back and refunded my money anyway which is lush. went to the local cam shop and old mate spun an XR200a profile which is the most agressive of stock cams onto my cam, so thats sorted now. I used 3x cans of VHT urethane "Wheel paint" for the frame as its supposedly very hard wearing and has a nice satin finish. its not quite as har
  7. ah sweet, the old pump bottle of gas to biff in and then discard as soon as theres enough room in the tank will be aplenty then.
  8. whats our max distance this year? interwebs tell me I should get around 150-160km from my 9L ish Cg125 tank on the XR200 engine
  9. I was then at the point of "what should I do" with the XR200 engine. It ran fine but was a tad smokey. I could have just given it a buff and a coat of black paint but it would be a shame to make the bike nice without giving the engine a once over. I decided to give it a good birthday without splitting the cases and i'm glad I did. After pulling the rocker cover off its quite evident something has gone on. The inlet valve had been munched against the inlet tappet screw and made a bit of a mess. really weird as the exhaust valve was fine. The cam also had a decent amount of w
  10. Leading up to east cape I have been putting a bit of work into the CT185 again. Building two bikes at once (this and the vespa) has its challenges but i'm getting there finally with both of them. As this will be running full electrics I wanted to make a nice discreet electrics tray for under the seat to hold the CDI, flasher, Battery (capacitor) and the bulk of the loom. Thought the easiest way was to make it out of fibreglass so I whipped up a wooden mould and laid one out. couldnt be bothered doing the whole plug and mould situation to get a nice finish so rough fibreglass will do.
  11. The dirt PK100, now affectionately names "the chuddy" had gross indicator holes on the front legshield and and rear pods, as PK vespas do, so I decided to do a quick slap up job and fill them in. and a quick one swipe bog smear and she's golden then a bit of a buzz with the orbital sander followed by a quick hand sand and its good enough for a race bike its quite convenient that VHT silver wheel paint is almost the exact same colour, so the entire bike got the treatment of one can, no way I was splashing out for two. Cut out an alloy blan
  12. so, like all things I do, I couldnt really do this vepsa thing in halves, and one wasn't going to be enough. I had been talking to one of the blokes in the Palmy SC about various smallframe vespa bits , has a cool hotted up SS90 replica. He mentioned a local old girl that was selling a 60s smallframe 90 that was "all there" but in a few bits and pretty straight. He said what she wanted for it which sounded pretty reasonable so I had a ponder on it. Was a sunday afternoon when @Sparkle was around at my place and he convinced me to go check it out, which we did. Unfortunately were son had
  13. yea it was a beautiful accident that one. it was my "workshop stool" but is perfect for holding smallframe vespas. so handy to just easily push it around the workshop.
  14. So onto the fun bits. The port timing on these things stock is lazy as, so that needed to change. I was told by some barry’s in blightly to aim for 125* transfer duration and 180* exhaust duration. Still don’t know what inlet timing to run but I havn’t got to that yet. To work out the timings you sit the crank in the left side engine case whack the piston and cylinder on and tighten in down and set the degree wheel at 0* as the piston first meets the opening of each port ATDC. You then rotate through to BDC and back up to where the port is just closing BTDC. I then used a series of shims
  15. found out why the clutch was dicky, aside from having almost no cork left the locating tabs had been based to shit by the basket, there was about 60ml of oil in the poor bloody thing. While I was at it I "lightened" the flywheel by heating up the ring gear and bashing it off. no need for electric legs when you have 3 ample sized real ones. Next up on list of “wow check out how fucked this is” was the bolts holding the rear wheel to the hub. They had obviously been left loose and the wheel had been chattering for quite some time. Photo below was one of the better ones.
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