Vintage Grumble

Damn boy, that sexy. Looks much better all red I reckon. Also, good to see crazy Neil's car in the retro pics. That thing hasn't moved in 7+ years now, RIP.

Well it makes more sense that it was a std yaris, not a GR to begin with. I was very confused there for a second.

@98cc that is so friggen sweet! Amazing job on the car, and so jealous of your involvement in that world, so many amazing machines.

Ok that's enough, first the range hood, now this, leave some blood in my head ayy.

Wholey shit that's sweet, you fucking mad man.

Wholey moley, more info please!!

Yoza, I'm trying to organize having my wheels re-banded by Pine, but he doesn't have the step lip barrels my current rims have, and has offered a reverse lip. In the pic he sent me, the rim is so fucking shiny I cant tell what the shape actually is, its making my eyes go cray cray. Has anyone had a set redone by Pine with the reverse lip barrels? If so, would you be able to post up pics from different angles so I can try understand the shape? Cheers!

Yeh so the final drive shafts were the same, just different in the dingus length. Swapped that over and bam, matching wheels. Also wanted to run the correct muffler, which involved changing the gigantic bracket they hang off. The skywave muffler has 3 bolts vs boomermans 2, and sits on a very slightly different angle, so also had to change the little header pipe. (Note finger in shot, like a legit boomer) Then I put it all back together using the best bits of both bikes. Note $17 AliExpress shield extension, and burgman forum badge. I dailyed it to work for a couple of weeks, goes hard for what it is, but sadly I'm too tall for it, it just owns my legs and back, because I can't get my ass back far enough (note removed lumber support in attempt to move ass back) so I'm going to have to move it on. Bit of a PITA, but hey, what's a brother going to do? I had a bit of free time, so started playing with the skywave. Determined the fuel pump was not dead (as last owner was told by mechanic). It had spark, so figured out the wiring for the pump and sender (had been chopped off) and wired it up. Then after a bit of fooling about figured out it was just a bung relay stopping the pump and injection. Changed the relay out and bam, started straight up. Stoked. I went back later for more mending, and every time I hooked the battery up, it would blow a fuse (had a few blown fuses before I started playing around) after blowing a few more, I discovered some wires shorting out. Sorted that and no more blown fuses. But now it won't run, dumb. It's flashing the F1 light, which I think is basically the check engine light. Also the dash lights flicker randomly, so something somewhere is not happy. While trying to find a wiring diagram, I found the actual bike on another forum. Good to see it has a long history of wiring faults, lolols. https://www.advrider.com/f/threads/neppi’s-an250-2004-skywave-burgman-misery.1421380/ Hopefully I can sort it out, as I have to flick this one off too. I might even be able to break even, ha.

I'm disgusted I didn't find the build thread earlier. This is so far up my alley, it's touching a lung.

I can't imagine how fast the 650s are, must be nuts. Edit: apparently with the correct technique, they can do 0-100 in 4.6 seconds. Edit edit: last night I found out why the back wheel of bike no2 was never changed to the OG wheel, the later model motors have a way shorter output shaft, and the OG brake/wheel combo doesn't fit. I'm going to yank the final drive shaft out of the bung motor and see if it will fit in this one, because I'd like matching wheels. Not the end of the world if it doesn't, but worth a go.

Sooooooo, I purchased a running and legal burgman from a chap in Te Puke, as that seemed easier than fixing the first one. The Te Puke one runs well, and rides ok, but is a bit rough around the edges. It's been dropped a few times, so the front plastics were pretty haggard, and had been repaired with cable ties/fiberglass/bog/screws and steel brackets etc. The plan was to put all the good plastics from bike no1 onto bike no2, and have one running tidy-ish bike, and sell off what I don't need/use to recoup some cash. But bike no1 is a much lower k bike, so I've decided to do an engine swap rather than a body swap. Some of the features of bike no2, Barry spec back rest, The ruff-as-guts plastic repairs, The sanded windscreen, apparently he was trying to polish it? And for whatever reason it has a later model rear wheel, and muffler from the skywave (I also got a 2004 EFI skywave with bike no2, more on that later) I rode this thing back from Te Puke, and to work once, and it goes pretty well. The 0-80ish acceleration is crazy good, and it tops out at 130, but gets there pretty quickly. The only problems I have is my height, I need to get my bum back a bit, and the windshield is exactly the right hight to direct all the air into my helmet, so it sounds like you're going 300kmh at 100kmh. Duck down behind the shield, and it's crazy quite, so I'll get an extension for it. Having not had a big scoots before, I thought the rear wheel set up is slightly interesting, and different between the burgman and the later model skywave. Burgman has splined disc and wheel, skywave spec is splined hub with bolt on disc and wheel. Anyways, I ripped the motors out of both, cleaned up the good bike and motor, and will soon slap them back together. I will whip the rocket cover off the new motor and just make sure it's not about to have a cam-tastrophe like the dead engine. Also, note wrecker writing on engine, this is not the first time this bad boy has played around. Regards, V-AN250s are my life now-G. Edit: I just clicked, the rear wheel will have come on the wrecker engine, hence it being different/from a later bike.

Haha, yep he mentioned you a few times. You should be safe, he no longer has any small bikes. He was a nice, but slightly odd chap.

This is all your fault @DB8-TypeR

Back in my day, everyone was using those mud & snow tyres that come in on jap cars, are they still a thing?

That is pretty damn tempting. I wonder how different the injected motors are to the carbed? Might be able to slap the whole skywave motor in mine, but with carb n shit.

@RUNAMUCK that batt was in it when I got it, which was 4+ years ago.

I'm not sure what it's called, but the BILs mill has a drive/chuck sticking out the front of it (horizontally) and he has a doofer that holds boring bars, so I can just bolt the head flat to the bed on the head gasket surface, find the center on the two good bearing surfaces, and then machine away. As long as the boring bar fits through the center bearing surface. If that makes sense?

Yeh oil feeds into the cam through the center bearing, and then out the side at each end into the bearing. The center of the cam chain end is plugged off, but the other end is open. I will probably plug the open end of the cam and maybe drill a little hole in it, so oil hits the end of the head and goes back through the sides of the bearing. Not 100% sure what to do at the driven end, the oil flying around off the cam/lifters/chain will probably be enough to keep a ball bearing happy.

Tiginging the pedestal in seems like way more work than what I'm trying? It would probably cause everything to warp too wouldn't it? And that guy with the savage sounds like a little bitch. That's not a bad option, but then all the tolerances have to be super spot on. The benefit of bearings is the fit and finish of the machined parts doesn't have to be absolutely perfect. This is the only thing I have to sort out. There will be a lip on the cam, on the inner side to stop the bearings going inward, but not 100% sure on how to stop them going out. The cam is located with a C clip, so the cam moving is not a problem. Just good old bearing retaining compound may have to do, if I cant think of another plan. Or maybe I can make a little plate that screws onto the head and retains the bearings?

I've found the correct cam and rockers on Ali express, so will probably go Ali on all the big bits, and the small bits I can't find I'll get OEM from webike. I priced all the bits I need from webike, it was around $1150 all up landed. Same list from local Suzuki dealer, $2100. Yikes. Yet to work out the Ali/OEM mix price, but probably closer to $500. Also, no more bikes, one broken one is enough for me (not counting the other two unfinished bike projects). So I couldn't find a caged needle roller thin (width ways) enough for the job, but did find a deep groove ball bearing that will work, when doubled up (5mm wide each). The munched end will work out sweet, enough meat in the head to take the bigger OD, I will just have to machine the cam down 1mm at that end. The more I thought about it, I didn't like the idea of bearings at just one end, so I am going to try fit them in the other end too, but I have to take that end of the cam down 5mm, but should be fine. The od will get close to the dowels, but should be ok. Random pics for visualization: Hopefully my BIL has a boring bar that will fit inside the center bearing hole. Will start setting it up tomorrow hopefully. Regards, VG.

Also, please update this thread @98cc

I have pined for one of these for like 25 years. I shall now live bi-curiously through you.

OK, so I have a plan to try save the head. Its a bit too rooted to try the method @tortron posted, so I'm going to try machine the rooted bit out on the BIL's mill, and slap a needle roller in there, that has an outer shell (so it doesn't have to run on the alloy) I can't think of a reason this wont work, as long as I can find a suitable bearing, and the cap has enough meat in it, AND I don't fuck up the machining. I think the oil supply to that journal comes through the cam, so I may just have to restrict that a bit or something? Can't really fuck the head anymore, so worth a shot eh.

I'll have to have a gooooood look at it and see if its worth a try. Did you say the GN heads have bearings on the cam? Interesting that the valve didn't hit the piston, luckily the barrel stopped it, lols.

rekt Basically needs a new head with all the trimmings, cylinder is savable, piston probably not, and seeing as the rest of it's an unknown, game over I guess. Don't think it's economical to repair, probably slap on TM/part out and try recoup some monies. Seemed like a good idea at the time/in the back of my mind I knew it was going to be fucked.