For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs

[siren676]

  

43 minutes ago, jakesae101 said:

So im adding in a electric vac pump for some extra brake vac and using all gm stuff 

using a VE commodore up28 pump and a cruize switch / T that fits on the booster so i can still keep the engine vac, it will just kick the pump on at low vac as I have been finding at times this is a bit average with the cam im running.

 

@cletus whats the go with the brake booster hose from the pump to the valve switch with regards to markings, as I know it has to be specific stuff as im fitting on the other side of the engine bay.

 

 

will this comply or is there a brand you recommend.

https://www.repco.co.nz/parts-service/intake-exhaust/car-vacuum-tubes/goss-powerbrake-vacuum-hose-12mm-bv120l150m/p/A1336107?srsltid=AfmBOorkQdxd87acklBvNoMhLAGIPUn3iLAq8iDkGMswllFl-Qa08vHj

Booster vac line has to have J1403 on the hose.

That repco one should be fine.
"The Goss J1403 brake vacuum hose is for use in power Light Duty applications. It is resistant to heat, oil, grease, abrasion, weathering & ozone, and complies with LVVTA regulations."

[cletus]

Yeah, that  ^

[Guypie]

If I wanted to change the wheels on my certed car with the old data plate cert, is it a full recheck or $50 re plate fee or something in the middle or both? LVVTA website says this but I can't quite make sense of it.

"The fees charged to a customer for LVV certification are derived from the time it takes to carry out the LVV certification inspection(s), fill in the required forms and form-sets, and prepare the associated documentation, which will be in the region of 2.5 hours for the more straight-forward certifications like a seat and seatbelt installation, through to 4.5 hours for a Targa car, plus in every case $270.00 for the certification Electronic Data Plate fee (subject to change), or $50 plate fee for a wheels and tyre change only certification (on an already certified vehicle), and additional consumables including stationary, courier, telephone, and travel expenses."

Too many damn commas in that sentence. Data plate currently says OE wheels, was hoping it would say 17x7 40p or whatever so I could swap to something else of same spec.

Edit:

just found this, my exact question:

"My car has been certified for coil-over shocks but on the stock wheels. Now I want to change my wheels. Do I have to get the car recertified?
Yes, you’ll need to get the car recertified, but providing that all other modifications match what the vehicle was originally LVV certified for, you can get a partial recertification for wheels and tyres. Simply give your LVV Certifier a call and let them know what you want to do. The cost is up to the LVV Certifier to determine as it will depend on how much time is involved in the inspection and LVV certification process"

[Bling]

-NaN-

[cletus]

heres how the pricing works

a cert costs a certifier $270 incl gst, that is the fee paid to lvvta

a wheels only re cert, costs the certifier $50, this is the same for a re print of the old alloy plate, or an update to an existing EDP (the donut thing)

plus the certifiers time/travel/admin etc

Lvvta requires a full set of paperwork for the car and mods, plus the wheels/tyres formset, a brake test, and one other form, so usually it ends up taking just as long as a regular cert check by the time i find all the mods, make sure they match the previous cert, and make sure they are still good or were done properly the first time,

so basically, in practice- the only saving is the difference in cost to the certifier ($50 vs $270)

 

so you can still get an old style plate reprinted with a different size wheel, if thats the only change.

If theres ANYTHING else changed, then its the full cost, new cert and it gets changed from a plate to a new EDP

 

side note, that $270 is actually subsidised by NZTA a certain amount per cert, so the facebook munters who go on about revenue gathering by the govt need to pull their head in, the govt actually contributes to the cost of running LVVTA and the certification system

Autofile - News / Support helps cap certification fee increase

[GARDRB]

So I was reading some fancy documents somewhere about having to have sliders if your seat had sliders from the factory unless on an authority card.

I have a Racetech that I was wanting to use as a driver's seat in my car, the belt seems to sit pretty happy if run through the belt holes in the sides of the seats and all is hunky dory except for the height of the seat on sliders. My thighs and the steering wheel end up in very close proximity for ingress and egress, past the bolster and it seems much safer if the seat just sits on the seat subframe without the slider. 

Is the slider a complete non-negotiable and should I just stick to my Recaros?

 

[Dudley]

15 minutes ago, GARDRB said:

So I was reading some fancy documents somewhere about having to have sliders if your seat had sliders from the factory unless on an authority card.

I have a Racetech that I was wanting to use as a driver's seat in my car, the belt seems to sit pretty happy if run through the belt holes in the sides of the seats and all is hunky dory except for the height of the seat on sliders. My thighs and the steering wheel end up in very close proximity for ingress and egress, past the bolster and it seems much safer if the seat just sits on the seat subframe without the slider. 

Is the slider a complete non-negotiable and should I just stick to my Recaros?

 

Illegal

[shizzl]

If you take a typical jap ute, and remove the body to use to put a pre 50s body on it, do you keep the plates and tags to that chassis, or is the reg process stay with the body?

seeing as most pre 50s bodies are usually deregd. 

[bigfoot]

1 hour ago, shizzl said:

If you take a typical jap ute, and remove the body to use to put a pre 50s body on it, do you keep the plates and tags to that chassis, or is the reg process stay with the body?

seeing as most pre 50s bodies are usually deregd. 

I think it becomes scratch built

[igor]

It's not like in the UK where it depends on how much of the donor vehicle is used in the new build?

[cletus]

3 hours ago, bigfoot said:

 it becomes scratch built

This

 

In the case you describe. 

[Adoom]

What numbers/specification needs to be on the side of my 5/16 Fuel Injection hose?

[Adoom]

Can I use this hose?
https://1stparts.co.nz/product/aeroflow-push-lock-500-black-series-hose-5-per-metre-5-16-new-fuel-safe-and-petroleum-oils-charged-per-metre-not-submersible/

It has the pressure rating and "Fuel/Oil" written on it.

Or does it specifically have to say SAEJ30R9 for the WOF man to be happy?

[Bearded Baldy]

My take on it is so long as i can see the fuel and pressure rating and it isn't perished, and it is a like for like replacement, send it.

 

[Muncie]

Opinions wanted here, back story my neighbour who's a top chap but buys the worst cars...... has bought himself a lovely Mercedes just stuck it in for a wof needed a tyre upon taking wheel of found the wheel bolts in this state. 

He's been quoted $3.5-5k to replace all the hubs yup they're all like this.

My guess someone bolted.5x114.4 wheels on a 5x112 car by just ugga dugga the shit out of them till tight

What can he do other than hubs? That'll pass a wof.

 

[tortron]

converting to wheel studs needs a cert

[kws]

what sort of merc, is it old enough to do some Pick A Part lego?

[Raizer]

Yeah what model? 

I know for mine new hubs are cheap on Rock Auto.

[CUL8R]

I would recommend he re-taps all the hubs, plenty of cutting fluid as you go and a new set of wheel bolts. More often than not with the wheel bolts you'll ruin the bolts before the hubs

99% of time at work fixing said issues from similar stories will fix, and torque to spec

[Muncie]

1 hour ago, CUL8R said:

I would recommend he re-taps all the hubs, plenty of cutting fluid as you go and a new set of wheel bolts. More often than not with the wheel bolts you'll ruin the bolts before the hubs

99% of time at work fixing said issues from similar stories will fix, and torque to spec

He's bought new bolts already he'll spring for a good tap and try that first he was pretty gutted. Hopefully can avoid new hubs as that is 300% more fucking around than needed. 

It's getting towed back from WOF shop to my place to look at.