For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs

[Raizer]

On the gearbox side the adaptor can be located with the centre and also can have 3 small dowels around the bolt holes (either m8 or m12 depending on what engine the box was fitted behind) 

4x m8 bolts to mount the uni flange, with slip fit locating recess.

I offered to make one, 6061 would be much easier on my old lathe, pretty sure I'd be able to send it out and get it treated to T6 spec, but steel would be an option, just slow going.

[440bbm]

Why not just buy T6 or is it not available anymore? 

 

is T651 OK or not acceptable for LVVTA either?

[tortron]

6 hours ago, Raizer said:

would be much easier on my old lathe

i made something almost identical the other day on mine in mild steel, you just need earmuffs and stone the tool occasionally

[Raizer]

1 hour ago, 440bbm said:

Why not just buy T6 or is it not available anymore? 

 

is T651 OK or not acceptable for LVVTA either?

That's a good point, had just been coming across plain 6061 in large round bar in the quick look I had last night.

But yeah T6511 would be likely easy enough to get hold of.

[440bbm]

It used to be, as was straight t6.

But it has been a few years since i'd been involved with it now.  Be interesting to see where the market is at now.

[cletus]

Driveshaft adapters are currently a no-go without TAC approval 

If it was to be approved you would also need drive shaft loop

And a lvv cert because of driveshaft modifications

 

 

= spend 2k to avoid replacing a $80 part 

 

I don't know why driveshaft adapters are not legal

 

[chris r]

Which $80 part did you mean? The uj? 

Issue is the manual gearbag flange is different from the auto. (btr vs Mercedes) 

So it'd be better to go for a two piece shaft with merc triangle and slip joint etc for the diff on the other end made by a recognised industry specialist? 

Technically need a cert for auto to manual swap anyway 😉

[cletus]

ah right, i thought you were just wanting to swap the guibo thing for a u joint

[chris r]

Nah if I could be lazy and get away with just using the guibo I would 

[RUNAMUCK]

Motorcycle re-vin question.

Do the lenses all need to have the factory markings on them? (Someone told me they thought they did)

I have all genuine Stanley (oem honda) indicator lenses. But the stop/tail lens is a generic replacement one. 

[tortron]

54 minutes ago, RUNAMUCK said:

factory markings on them

they are supposed to have the E marking on them (or equivalent). its in the entry cert paperwork if you are looking for it.

china will put an e on anything you want,  and i recall a wof doesnt need the e

 

you can of course put some big ugly definately road legal gn125 lamp ziptied on for the inspection and then remove after for a small one, i did something like that for DR200

 

 

 

For motorcycle (Class L) this is apparently only required if built after 1st jan 2006, for brakes. Indicators are 1996. Also only needs to be shown to.comply however that is, but just easier to put modern complying ones on for thr inspection tbh

 

 

[RUNAMUCK]

I did buy that from a Honda dealership too.

[RUNAMUCK]

It'll it fails on that,

I'll email them asking them to provide a letter that it's of the required standard

[kp60nick]

This is potentially a long way around a fairly small problem. I've been using my honda logo on the track a bit recently and have realized it has a lot of under steer. Rear sway bar helped but really need to stiffen the front springs. Current front springs are 3kg. Unfortunately I haven't been able to find a spring that has similar dimensions. Nor have I been able to find a similar style strut that would suit the current configuration.

What I EXPERIMENTED  with so far to try and resolve this,  is a set of honda fit gd3 coilovers with 65mm ID spring. Spring rate options and heights are now endless. They have the standard two bolt at the bottom  mounting so that requires the honda fit knuckles which are surprisingly close match to the logo. Using the fit ball joint pressed into the logo  bottom arm the logo axle slides into the fit hub. (They use the same bearing so will press out fit hub and use logo hub instead) 

The problem I have now is the tie rod location is about 40mm lower. So my question is....

     FIT ^^^             VS           LOGO^^^^

Q. What are my legal options for spacing up tie rod ends? 

Any suggestions would be great. Even if it means a completely different path to get the same results. 

I understand i will need cert. 

Please note: Logo tie rod already mounts on top of existing knuckles so cant flip it over. 

Thanks. 

[Bling]

I can't comment on that stuff. But what I can say is that Cobra springs will custom make a spring to whatever specifications you want.

[kp60nick]

Thanks @Bling that could definitely be an option. 

[cletus]

There's a infosheet on limits for custom tie rod ends

https://lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_04-2020_Spherical_Bearing_Rod_End_Conversion.pdf

 

Before you start on this option, you need to understand steering geometry and bump steer , what it does, and how to fix it 

https://lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_05-2010_Bump-steer_Swing-check_Procedure.pdf

 This is one of those situations where it might be a better option to get some new  suspension that fits rather than come up with custom made steering parts to fit some second hand suspension 

 

[kp60nick]

Thanks @cletus good information to have. You're definitely right. Before I go any further I'll look into blings suggestion. 

[SiRge]

Pretty sure you can use first gen hrv stuff like this guy with the bonus of 5 stud (B series turbo optional)

 

[chris r]

1 hour ago, SiRge said:

Pretty sure you can use first gen hrv stuff like this guy with the bonus of 5 stud (B series turbo optional)

 

And the same rotors as the type r 

 

Hrv swaybar etc might be a option too as the hrv apparently logo based so might be some honda lego options there