For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs

[RUNAMUCK]

The very same bike was sold as both a 90, and a 110 too  

Mine literally never had side flashers from new. (1968)

[rotormotor]

Silly question time.

Need to remove cert plate on fire wall to repaint engine bay.

Drilled out rivets but seems adhesive backed as well, i gonna properly munt this plate removing it so is there big issues getting it remade and handing my old creased one like with number plates?

 

Cherrs

[cletus]

The correct answer is only a certifier is allowed to remove and replace a cert plate, anything else is illegal and bad.

Same with vin tags, except only a tsda/testing station can remove or replace those  

A replacement cert plate is about $50 plus however much a certifier charges you for their time 

 

An outlaw would probably give the plate a gentle warm up with a hair dryer or heat gun and slide a razor down behind it or tooth floss or fishing nylon to release the adhesive, which would prevent the plate being damaged

But that would be illegal so don't do that  

[rotormotor]

I did do the razor blade on corner and pretty much popped off.

Much win by the sounds 

 

/no illegal photographic evidence attached

[Bling]

Was yarning with someone recently about a similar removal (vin though) that meant future roadworthiness of a vehicle was in the hands of NZTA $$. I assume they noticed rivets / damage around them. Don't remove plates, it can really ruin your cereal. I masking taped (very neatly) my build plate when respraying and it looked sweet as.

[GARDRB]

On 07/01/2025 at 20:59, Bling said:

Was yarning with someone recently about a similar removal (vin though) that meant future roadworthiness of a vehicle was in the hands of NZTA $$. I assume they noticed rivets / damage around them. Don't remove plates, it can really ruin your cereal. I masking taped (very neatly) my build plate when respraying and it looked sweet as.

haha the vin tag fell off (like really fell off, not "fell off") my brother's surf when we were working on it recently. It's now safely reattached with new rivets.

[Bearded Baldy]

Seat mountings chat please.

All the talk online about fitting b series xr6 seats to x series falcons says the x rails fit the studs and holes on the b series seats.

Following this gospel i bought some seats and have found the whole lot to be BS. Length and width of the mounting studs is miles out in both directions.

Presenting super duper phone art picture #1.

Would it in theory be certifiable to make a u shaped flat steel adaptor like the photo?

And if so would it need to be 12mm thick like it would as a floor rail or is 6mm ok?

Last question for now, can i use the o.e mounting studs and nuts on the seat (8mm ish) to mount the plate, and the o.e bolts for the x series rails to the plate?

I think i explained my thoughts right, maybe not.

[RXFORD]

Using 5mm or 6mm flat will be heaaaaaps thick enough for cert. 12mm is crazy talk. At the end of the day, the seat bases will likely only be a couple bits of 1mm - 1.6mm sheet spotwelded togethor so not exactly bomb proof.

Unstressed seat mountings are fine having 4x 8mm or 5/16" fasteners, but if it has a seatbelt mount built into it you my have to step them up depending on where the seatbelt is mounted. 

Maybe you could mock something up quickly from sheetmetal and we could visualise it better. 

[kseries.rookie]

Converting a carb fuel tank to EFI..
I suspect I will be alright with a simple in line fuel pump mounted externally under the car (and run a new return line into the tank) but with no baffles in the tank I may come across surging issues?
Option could be mounting a surge tank in the spare tyre well but with battery in the boot I think it's quite a mission?
Could mounting a small surge tank under the car be an option (space permitting)? 

Or if anyone has alternative options I am keen to hear.
Car is a KP60 starlet and needs to comply with certification rules.

Friend of mine has an inline pump on a factory carb tank and hasn't experience any surging issues.. Am I just over complicating it?

[Nominal]

21 minutes ago, kseries.rookie said:

Converting a carb fuel tank to EFI..
I suspect I will be alright with a simple in line fuel pump mounted externally under the car (and run a new return line into the tank) but with no baffles in the tank I may come across surging issues?
Option could be mounting a surge tank in the spare tyre well but with battery in the boot I think it's quite a mission?
Could mounting a small surge tank under the car be an option (space permitting)? 

Or if anyone has alternative options I am keen to hear.
Car is a KP60 starlet and needs to comply with certification rules.

Friend of mine has an inline pump on a factory carb tank and hasn't experience any surging issues.. Am I just over complicating it?

If it works OK for someone else it should be fine, especially if you don't let the fuel level get too low.

[cletus]

16 hours ago, Bearded Baldy said:

Seat mountings chat please.

All the talk online about fitting b series xr6 seats to x series falcons says the x rails fit the studs and holes on the b series seats.

Following this gospel i bought some seats and have found the whole lot to be BS. Length and width of the mounting studs is miles out in both directions.

Presenting super duper phone art picture #1.

Would it in theory be certifiable to make a u shaped flat steel adaptor like the photo?

And if so would it need to be 12mm thick like it would as a floor rail or is 6mm ok?

Last question for now, can i use the o.e mounting studs and nuts on the seat (8mm ish) to mount the plate, and the o.e bolts for the x series rails to the plate?

I think i explained my thoughts right, maybe not.

As mentioned above 

5 or 6mm will be fine

The only thing to consider with using flat plate, is if it's going to flex, ie if the seat mount holes are close to the floor mount holes it's probably going to be fine, if they are not close then the flat plate can flex a bit, this can be fixed by using a gusset or another bit of flat welded on its edge

In fact 3mm would probably be fine if it had a gusset

Leave your seatbelt attached to the floor, not the seat, this makes life much easier

[cletus]

27 minutes ago, kseries.rookie said:

Converting a carb fuel tank to EFI..
I suspect I will be alright with a simple in line fuel pump mounted externally under the car (and run a new return line into the tank) but with no baffles in the tank I may come across surging issues?
Option could be mounting a surge tank in the spare tyre well but with battery in the boot I think it's quite a mission? if it's in the spare wheel well you can put a sealed flat panel over it to turn the well into an enclosure 
Could mounting a small surge tank under the car be an option (space permitting)?  yes, a small under car surge tank is a good way of doing it

Or if anyone has alternative options I am keen to hear.
Car is a KP60 starlet and needs to comply with certification rules.

Friend of mine has an inline pump on a factory carb tank and hasn't experience any surging issues.. Am I just over complicating it? imo it depends on the engine, if it's something that doesn't matter if it loses fuel pressure ie a stock 4age then that would be fine, if it was a boosted engine where a lean out could be disastrous then you need to do something that stops it from happening

 

[kseries.rookie]

I saw a product like a filter sock that sits on the end of the fuel pickup inside the tank - I wish I saved the link because I can't find it.
It was like a flat pad that acts as a filter/sock that sits on the bottom of the tank.
bit like this I guess

 

Good idea with a simple in line fuel pump? Or bad idea?
Tank will get cleaned to the best of my ability but will be relying heavily on this filter sock as well as in line filter

 

Edit: Hydramat

[Bearded Baldy]

Cheers @RXFORD and @cletus,

Yeah the seat base itself is barely 1.6mm, i thought i read on the lvvta site that adaptors had to be 12mm, was trying to parent and research at the same time and failed lol.

The rear rail hole will be approx 20mm forward and out from the seat stud, the front one will be 50 to 60mm back from the front stud.

Seatbelts will be staying mounted on the floor so no worries there.

Will make so dummy plates up to show what i mean one night after work.

Cheers again fellas

[Bearded Baldy]

And i even took the photo of the seat base back to front, front edge is at the bottom ffs...

[dmulally]

4 hours ago, Bearded Baldy said:

Cheers @RXFORD and @cletus,

Yeah the seat base itself is barely 1.6mm, i thought i read on the lvvta site that adaptors had to be 12mm, was trying to parent and research at the same time and failed lol.

The rear rail hole will be approx 20mm forward and out from the seat stud, the front one will be 50 to 60mm back from the front stud.

Seatbelts will be staying mounted on the floor so no worries there.

Will make so dummy plates up to show what i mean one night after work.

Cheers again fellas

Thinking back to when I put a Nash seat in my chev I had to make sure the doubler plate on the bottom and the bodgy angle iron on the top had to form to the corrugations of the floor panel. Not sure if relevant for the falcon however. 

[shizzl]

I had some spacers laser cut so that the seat rail clears the corrugations, these are 10mm, with 4mm doubler on the underside.

i had some seat rail adapters laser cut which mount to the seat and the floor spacers.

really solid, highly unlikely they will ever go anywhere in a smash, there are no welds.
 

 

[Bearded Baldy]

Nice and flat on the falcon thankfully, looking at it tonight i think i can make something nice out of some 75x50x5 angle steel. Shortening the 50mm side to 25mm should act as a gusset and not hang down looking hori.

Using the original xc rails from the car so the floor side of the mountings shouldn't be a problem.

Or will they need a plate on the underside of the floor since the seat itself is different?

 

[dmulally]

13 hours ago, Bearded Baldy said:

Nice and flat on the falcon thankfully, looking at it tonight i think i can make something nice out of some 75x50x5 angle steel. Shortening the 50mm side to 25mm should act as a gusset and not hang down looking hori.

Using the original xc rails from the car so the floor side of the mountings shouldn't be a problem.

Or will they need a plate on the underside of the floor since the seat itself is different?

 

The answer is usually whatever is the hardest and most annoying to do. But if it's the same mounting points I can't see why it would need to change. Especially if it's captured nuts as you'd have to cut them off. If it isn't a captured nut and just a hole in the floor I'd use a doubler. 

[cletus]

13 hours ago, Bearded Baldy said:

Nice and flat on the falcon thankfully, looking at it tonight i think i can make something nice out of some 75x50x5 angle steel. Shortening the 50mm side to 25mm should act as a gusset and not hang down looking hori.

Using the original xc rails from the car so the floor side of the mountings shouldn't be a problem.

Or will they need a plate on the underside of the floor since the seat itself is different?

 

Factory anchorage- you don't have to do anything, just bolt your seat to it. 

If you drill a new hole- it's a new anchorage- then you follow the seat mounting recipes in either the seat standard on lvvta.org.nz or in the seats chapter of the CCM