For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs

[Bearded Baldy]

Going from what the auditor said last time.

Body number and chassis number have to match. Removing or hiding chassis number is instant fail.

Body swapping or chassis swapping now needs cert.

 

Thank your local 4wd brigade for that. Apparently too many rolled vehicles getting body swapped and doing it halfarse, only fitting half the bolts etc etc same mindset as 'coilovers shouldn't need a cert' brigade.

[kws]

We've seen jobs come up at work where they have done a body swap and then it fails a wof for missing things like body mount rubbers... Just crank the bolts up right, she'll be right.

Out of curiosity, i have wondered, if we supply a brand new genuine chassis for a ute to repair crash damage, i know the chassis number needs to be stamped on it, but does it technically need a cert for that?

[cletus]

As far as I'm aware, it doesn't need cert if it's a straight same-same swap , I haven't heard of any rule changes on this and it would be a change in lvvta process for it to happen

Have had a couple come through for cert for other things with mismatched numbers and that is resolved by sending to a VTNZ/VINZ/AA compliance center to get the chassis numbers linked on landata, sometimes they get a new 7AT0xxxxxx vin tag put on 

The main thing is DO NOT mess with the numbers , as soon as this happens it makes it look stolen 

[Leone]

Doing some research around upgrading the brakes/5sud conversion on the Leone:

 

Assuming i took the LCA to a machinist and said i want a 10Deg tapered hole it would be pretty straight forward, but what about certifying it? Would it need any type of paperwork or is this relatively common/not that big of a deal?

 

 

Your lower control arm will need to be modified/reamed to accept the EJ ball joint. The old Brumby ball joint has a 7° taper hole and the EJ ball joint needs a 10° taper hole. Most machine shops can do this for you, . Once that is done the EJ ball joint and steering knuckle is a direct bolt in fit to the control arms. The factory Brumby tie rod ends also now bolt directly to the EJ steering knuckle. 

[tortron]

1 hour ago, cletus said:

The main thing is DO NOT mess with the numbers , as soon as this happens it makes it look stolen 

 

 

100% do not do this

[shizzl]

Old school utes have no identifiers on the chassis.. win win

[440bbm]

how old school you talking cos thats not entirely accurate... but maybe my oldschool aint the same as yours LOL

[shizzl]

Well none of by existing or pre owned b1600s had any numbers stamped anywhere. The only identifiers were the little plate that was screwed to the inner guard. That is all

[zep]

I'm planning on putting a toothed WSS pickup ring behind my axle flanges. This means that the stud knurl will most probably engage into the ring fully and into the flange partially. I've looked at the manual but not found any guidance on how much knurl engagement is required, only that the stud can't spin. Is that all that is required?

[RXFORD]

Why does the wss need to be so thick?

 

If you can't make it thinner to get more spline engagement (1.6/2mm sorta thing) I would consider attaching the wss differently.

Drilling/tapping the axle then bolting it on, and just having a hole/pocket so the stud can attach to the axle directly. 

[mjrstar]

^^ this

you might be able to utilize the rotor retaining screw holes and just get some longer countersunk screws. And pocket the back as @RXFORD suggests.

I think the shoulder of the stud really needs to seat directly onto the wheel flange, otherwise the knurl will wear and things will get wobbly.

[zep]

3 hours ago, RXFORD said:

Why does the wss need to be so thick?

 

If you can't make it thinner to get more spline engagement (1.6/2mm sorta thing) I would consider attaching the wss differently.

Drilling/tapping the axle then bolting it on, and just having a hole/pocket so the stud can attach to the axle directly. 

From what I've read, the teeth should be 6mm+. I was making the ring with bent up teeth, so the whole thing is made from 6mm steel.

2 hours ago, mjrstar said:

^^ this

you might be able to utilize the rotor retaining screw holes and just get some longer countersunk screws. And pocket the back as @RXFORD suggests.

I think the shoulder of the stud really needs to seat directly onto the wheel flange, otherwise the knurl will wear and things will get wobbly.

Thanks, this is useful. I will try to redesign it so that the WSS ring has a pocket for the studs.

[RUNAMUCK]

Motorcycle wof question,

At what age does a moped require indicators be fitted? (Ie, after what year?)

[igor]

Pretty sure it is 1977 for proper motorbikes. My ex's '76 CG125 didn't have them and it always got wofs like that.

[AllTorque]

[tortron]

But what about non wof moopeds

 

Headlights on if built after 1980. Use hands if no indicators or brake lights

 

[tortron]

[tortron]

https://www.nzta.govt.nz/vehicles/vehicle-types/motorcycles-and-mopeds/information-for-moped-riders/#equipment

[RUNAMUCK]

The very same bike was sold as both a 90, and a 110 too  

Mine literally never had side flashers from new. (1968)

[rotormotor]

Silly question time.

Need to remove cert plate on fire wall to repaint engine bay.

Drilled out rivets but seems adhesive backed as well, i gonna properly munt this plate removing it so is there big issues getting it remade and handing my old creased one like with number plates?

 

Cherrs