datlow Posted January 28 Posted January 28 22 hours ago, kseries.rookie said: no baffles in the tank I may come across surging issues? probably not possible as no big inspection holes etc but you can get foam "baffles" https://www.demon-tweeks.com/au/atl-fuel-tank-baffle-foam-240867/#:~:text=Baffle foam is used in,tank which cannot be disassembled. 1 Quote
tortron Posted January 28 Posted January 28 My l200 has been fed by an external pump since 2001, can't say I have ever noticed it surging. Once I ran it empty and had to rock it back and forward to get fuel in the lines so I could drive 100m to the petrol pump, was driving normal till then lol Quote
R3spct Posted January 29 Posted January 29 I welded a drop box on the bottom of my Datsun 1200 coupe tank for efi. Good thing, zero surge, bad is it holds maybe 1.2l, and when it runs out you get one cough, then 100m you are on side of the road. 1 Quote
RUNAMUCK Posted January 29 Posted January 29 10 hours ago, R3spct said: I welded a drop box on the bottom of my Datsun 1200 coupe tank for efi. Good thing, zero surge, bad is it holds maybe 1.2l, and when it runs out you get one cough, then 100m you are on side of the road. I'm going to do a similar thing on my Valiant. Not because of EFI. (Not at this stage anyway) But because the fuel tank is relatively small. (68 ish litres) and the factory pick up sees the engine stop dead when there's still a few litres of gas in the tank. I'm going to run a dry sump fitting (which has a mesh cone as part of it) The biggest ball ache was having to make a 5/16 hose tail, because nobody makes a fitting with that big of a step down. (The rest is dash 10 or 12, I forget which) just gonna use a bit of 3" or 4" exhaust tube. It also won't be hard to change the hose tail to 3/8 if anyone ever upgrades the fuel lines under the car. Quote
440bbm Posted January 29 Posted January 29 why not just upgrade the rest of the line to a reasonable size instead of the ballache of making that fitting and be better all round? Quote
RUNAMUCK Posted January 29 Posted January 29 Because they don't make a dash 12 to 3/8 hose tail either. And replacing the whole hardline under a car is an absolute cunt of a job. Buying two parts and getting a friend to glue them together was eleventy billion times less fuck around.......... And I'm not at a power level (yet) where it needs to be upgraded. 3 Quote
oldrx Posted February 2 Posted February 2 If a fella had aftermarket alloy wheels on his car and they had 'competition use only' cast into them would this prove problematic come lvvt cert time? *asking for a friend* Quote
cletus Posted February 2 Posted February 2 Possibly. Depends what they are. For example, 14x8 tridens have some words on the back of them, off toad use only or something like that, because at the time 8inch wheels were not legal in Australia. Then there's some skinny drag wheels that say they are for race use only because they fall to bits if you go around a corner 1 Quote
oldrx Posted February 2 Posted February 2 1 hour ago, cletus said: Possibly. Depends what they are. For example, 14x8 tridens have some words on the back of them, off toad use only or something like that, because at the time 8inch wheels were not legal in Australia. Then there's some skinny drag wheels that say they are for race use only because they fall to bits if you go around a corner Welded 3 piece 14x6.5 & 7.5 Hayashi Quote
Bearded Baldy Posted February 5 Posted February 5 Ok gents, these seat adaptors... Current gameplan is to mount the 10mm packer to the 5mm plate with m8 countersunk screws, screws will be shortened etc etc. The O.E rails to be attached to the packer using m8 capscrews in the original rail holes. And the seat to be attached to the 5mm plate via the seats 8mm studs and nuts. Sound legit? 1 Quote
Bling Posted February 5 Posted February 5 Are the countersunk screws you have 8.8 rated? Never used any myself so just wondering. Quote
Bearded Baldy Posted February 5 Posted February 5 @Bling counters and caps are all 12.9, wasn't planned that way but that is all they had. 1 Quote
Tiger Tamer Posted February 6 Posted February 6 I suppose your design will be up to your certifier (I like it). I have been told I need to have at least three threads protruding through the other side. So you can't shorten them flush. Not sure what the three threads protruding do though. With sliding parts hopefully that's not a problem for you. Quote
Bearded Baldy Posted February 6 Posted February 6 Hmm 3 thread protusion would stop the rail from sitting flat onto the adaptor... would hope as all threads are cut into the 10mm thick section it will be ok. But common sense and nzta don't really go together. Quote
cletus Posted February 6 Posted February 6 The threads protruding thing comes from the CCM chapter 18 That says that a bolt must protrude past a lock nut by 2 threads The reason for this is the first thread on a bolt is a bit smaller, so a nyloc or similar lock nut will not grip the threads correctly if it's flush. Unfortunately some of the requirements in the book don't fit every situation, and sometimes are misinterpreted or applied where they don't need to be Personally I would not require 2 threads past the face of a threaded part, as long as there's enough thread engagement in the part itself 5 2 Quote
Bearded Baldy Posted February 6 Posted February 6 Ahh that makes sense, downloaded the ccm last week but haven't gone through it yet. Figured no point looking at the old ringbinder one in the shed. The local cert guy is about 10 minutes away but is hard to get hold of. So i appreciate all your input @cletus and team. 1 Quote
gibbon Posted February 12 Posted February 12 talking to an old boy about my rx7 and mentioned the roll cage in it and that I had considered removing it at one stage He said 'oh you probably don't want to do that' - he reckoned when the side impact rules came in in the 90s, importers found it cheaper to import a car "for race use only" to circumvent the side impact requirements, then fit a cheap half cage, THEN recertify for the road where the cage trumped the lack of side bars True or BS? 1 Quote
Popular Post cletus Posted February 12 Popular Post Posted February 12 Sounds like made up shit to me Let me guess He also had a land rover with a 186 from a gtr torana that would get rubber in all gears and keep up with a GTHO 2 9 Quote
tortron Posted February 12 Posted February 12 There's only mention of frontal. Impact rules, and those don't apply if it's 20yrs old anyways Quote
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