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Posted

Smaller is better when non boosted so if the 7/8 one is the smallest wilwood one I'd get that

Like @Nominal said you will likely need to reduce the pedal ratio,

there's not really a recipie that you can fit x y and z parts and it will work first time in your exact setup

The rest of your questions are in the CCM which I would recommend reading as you go, so you get it correct as you do each thing.

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Posted

I tried looking for the pedal ratio required, I must be blind. 
 

Edit: found it , between 4:1-6:1 for boosted.

non boosted 5:1-7:1

 

so a 6.25:1 Wilwood pedal box would work 
 

smaller bore=less forced required to operate, correct?

Posted
2 hours ago, shizzl said:

 

 

with brake lines, can it all be AN braid or hardline only.

 

Need to replace oem hardlined sections with hardline. Steel bundy or Copper Nickel, and not that china copper nickel from Temu.

I think you can run all braid if you have logbooked vehicle.

Any Braided hose you have made for the flexis need to be tagged because china.

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Posted

people that buy any of the materials, hoses, fittings off those ( ali / temu / alibaba etc etc) places all need to be fucking shot. 

yes there is saving money when the ability to during car builds cos yes its fucking stupidly expensive but cmon guys. pull ya damn heads in. 

yes theres lotsa shit that comes from china but at least reputable NZ or AU companies take the warranties and liabities on if supply you these terrible quality things.  and have also done the hard yards to find the better quality shit they're selling you not the rest of it.

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Posted

Technically, yes unfortunately 

If you're going to cert it may as well do a turbo to make it worthwhile 

On a similar note, different type of car-

One that caught me out was a guy had cut the engine mount number pad off and neatly epoxied on one he'd cut offathe original one

I didn't notice until he told me 

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Posted
1 hour ago, smokin'joe said:

@cletus    toyota 3L to 5L with mechanical pump......... cert needed ?

both terribly gutless, feck all difference in CC's.

Tom's Surf/4Runner getting Ebernezza Knockworthy, and wanting legals

 Fanx

 

3l is better than a 5l, those were/still are utter shit (slap in low box to go anywhere uphill)

 

might aswell 1kz it if it’s going through cert

Posted
8 hours ago, cletus said:

Technically, yes unfortunately 

If you're going to cert it may as well do a turbo to make it worthwhile 

 

OK. was thinking, being only 200cc bigger and still fecken gutless and same fuel delivery, it would be under threshold.

 

Posted
8 hours ago, Bling said:

bloody buggers, when did the CC's stop tasting like cheese ?

once upon a time there was an allowance for increase of both CC and Hp/torques, as long as configuration and engine family remained

Posted
8 hours ago, shizzl said:

3l is better than a 5l, those were/still are utter shit (slap in low box to go anywhere uphill)

 

might aswell 1kz it if it’s going through cert

if it was being certed. may as well 305/350 it and be done with!!

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Posted
Just now, smokin'joe said:

bloody buggers, when did the CC's stop tasting like cheese ?

once upon a time there was an allowance for increase of both CC and Hp/torques, as long as configuration and engine family remained

lols thats what i thought it was!  if the body was optioned with larger motor and could use all OEM parts to bolt up..  this was some time back though haha

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Posted
Just now, smokin'joe said:

if it was being certed. may as well 305/350 it and be done with!!

305?  why bother.  its the same block all the way up but the 305 poos. go 350 383 or 400ci

Posted
1 hour ago, smokin'joe said:

bloody buggers, when did the CC's stop tasting like cheese ?

once upon a time there was an allowance for increase of both CC and Hp/torques, as long as configuration and engine family remained

It's a moving target I guess as people always push the limits of the rules. So they make the rules more and more strict.

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