For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs

[JustHarry]

11 hours ago, smokin'joe said:

@cletus    toyota 3L to 5L with mechanical pump......... cert needed ?

both terribly gutless, feck all difference in CC's.

Tom's Surf/4Runner getting Ebernezza Knockworthy, and wanting legals

 Fanx

 

A dishonest person might just do the swap and use parts off the 3l to make it look correct and be sure the engine number is sufficiently covered in dirt and oil...

[igor]

The wof guy might not notice but the insurance assessor might in the event of an accident. How hard do they look at that sort of thing?

[shizzl]

Surely if it got fitted with a 5l you should be in insurance credit given that you’ll now be much slower and less likely to be stolen.

 

the 3l is 2.8L correct? Just say the 5l has been sleeved down

[smokin'joe]

3 hours ago, Bling said:

It's a moving target I guess as people always push the limits of the rules. So they make the rules more and more strict.

just as well i still have a couple or 2TG's for WOF purposes on Levin. previous WOFs met threshold (without a dyno check) due to size increase

[smokin'joe]

2 hours ago, igor said:

The wof guy might not notice but the insurance assessor might in the event of an accident. How hard do they look at that sort of thing?

Tom only wrecks my vehicles, looks after his own !!

[GARDRB]

1 hour ago, shizzl said:

Surely if it got fitted with a 5l you should be in insurance credit given that you’ll now be much slower and less likely to be stolen.

 

the 3l is 2.8L correct? Just say the 5l has been sleeved down

There’s 200cc worth of carbon on top of the pistons

[kseries.rookie]

On 07/11/2024 at 22:04, RXFORD said:

 Steel bundy or Copper Nickel, and not that china copper nickel from Temu.

 

If I go down to BNT and pick up a roll of cop nic tubing, it's highly likely it's all made in the same place right?
How would one tell the difference between the good and the bad copper nickel? Genuine question..

[RXFORD]

Some of the Ali Express stuff I've seen people post pics of just looks like straight copper from the colour of it. Theres a noticeable colour difference. Copper is more orange and really easy to bend by hand with minimal effort. Cu/Ni is more gold/brass coloured like the smaller tubing in my pic and takes a little more effort to bend.

Yeh possible its all comes from China like most things these days, but the point is, if its cheap as fuck ya gotta wonder why. I don't buy it if I can't put eyes on it to check the printed numbers.

Should say Cu/Ni 90/10 and have the standard numbers on it. If it doesn't, Certifier probably has grounds to question/reject it. 

 

[shizzl]

27 minutes ago, RXFORD said:

Some of the Ali Express stuff I've seen people post pics of just looks like straight copper from the colour of it. Theres a noticeable colour difference. Copper is more orange and really easy to bend by hand with minimal effort. Cu/Ni is more gold/brass coloured like the smaller tubing in my pic and takes a little more effort to bend.

Yeh possible its all comes from China like most things these days, but the point is, if its cheap as fuck ya gotta wonder why. I don't buy it if I can't put eyes on it to check the printed numbers.

Should say Cu/Ni 90/10 and have the standard numbers on it. If it doesn't, Certifier probably has grounds to question/reject it. 

 

Good to know that actually.

ill need to do all if my lines shortly 

[kseries.rookie]

Appreciate the insightful response - good to know as I will be going through cert at some point soon

[Dudley]

13 minutes ago, kseries.rookie said:

Appreciate the insightful response - good to know as I will be going through cert at some point soon

Does your car even require a cert seeing as your loosing power going from the mighty 5k to a 4age?

[kseries.rookie]

I'd never commit such fraud, get outta here

[shizzl]

How vital is it that a project is painted prior to cert inspections?

 

[cletus]

It's not vital. 

The book says any modified sections of chassis should be painted for corrosion protection purposes

There's actually a new form which should be released shortly to allow unpainted things to be certified and the owner takes responsibility for taking care of corrosion issues 

 

I usually tell people it's better to have it finished and painted for the final cert inspection just so it matches the photos, but it's not compulsory 

[shizzl]

I’m considering getting the inner cab , engine bay, inside the deck etc all paint and leave the external panels till last.

i can only see many scratches get into it during reassembly.

 

just getting the seats in is a task and a half

[kws]

So the Marina had a wof advisory that the rear axle radius arm bushes are perished and I need to replace them. Problem is they were only on Aus cars, and are straight up unobtainable.

They're a weird moulded rubber bush, and the hole in the arm isn't circular (to stop the bush rotating) so I can't really press some other sort of bush in without modifying the arm.

What's the go with me just replacing the arm with a custom arm (basically a rod with a standard bush on each end)? Direct replacement, not adjustable etc. either standard bushes with voids like standard, or rose joints.

[Goat]

Remove the arm and custom pour some poly bushings?

I'd say any different arms would need cert (unless its factory off another non AU marina or something and would look stock (would probably need a cert anyway but nobody would notice except Bryan. haha))

[kws]

21 hours ago, Goat said:

Remove the arm and custom pour some poly bushings?

I'd say any different arms would need cert (unless its factory off another non AU marina or something and would look stock (would probably need a cert anyway but nobody would notice except Bryan. haha))

The bushes are super weird, so even pouring poly bushes probably wouldn't be the go as you need the flex or the alloy arm will break (which I need to avoid at all costs since the arm is also unobtainium)

I had a guy in Aus snap some photos of the arm and new bush for me to see what I was working with.

My idea was to just buy or made something like this, to the exact same length as the stock arm, but with bushes with voids in the same places as the stock bushes

[Bling]

+1 for pouring a new bush. Surely you could just work out the right "strength" (I don't recall what the use as a rating system for flex) and pour in place, with that bush in the hole. Could print some sacrificial pieces to give the shape needed for the bush, then just pour it and break them off after. You can swap the arm for sure, but cert time i'd say (as mentioned above). 

[Nominal]

I think an old car friendly WOF place that had seen the car before would accept an 'aftermarket replacement' arm that was functionally the same.