shizzl Posted October 27 Share Posted October 27 Only for rocker switch installation? I might have to rethink my plan then, should be able to get some pretty easy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corbie Posted October 27 Share Posted October 27 Don't get any of the camo paint on your door cards though. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bling Posted October 27 Share Posted October 27 Would have been easier to start with a BMW, no need for indicators at all then. 2 1 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zep Posted October 29 Share Posted October 29 On 21/10/2024 at 21:13, ajg193 said: Apparently the new black/silver plates have been discontinued, last day to order them is 31st Oct. They will all be black/white Post from reddit: " NZ Transport Agency Waka Kotahi (NZTA) have made the decision that black numberplates with silver text will no longer be available, due to a readability issue. The last day to order a black numberplate with silver text will be 31 October 2024. To ensure that you can have your plate(s) made with silver text, you will need to request manufacture with Licensys (the government plate manufacturer) no later than 30 November 2024. What happens if you don't request manufacture by 30 November 2024? If you do not request manufacture before this date, then you will still be able to have your plate(s) manufactured in the same design, however, instead of silver text the plate(s) will come with white text. We wanted to let you know of this important change and provide you with the opportunity to have your plate(s) made as you have ordered. It is important to note that while no new plates with silver text will be issued, NZTA have no plans to recall existing black plates with silver text; any plates that are already registered on a vehicle will still be legal to use in New Zealand. Black plates with white text will continue to be available for customers to purchase through KiwiPlates." So this has caught up with me. I have an unmanufactured silver-on-black plate for the Gemini. However, you can only request manufacture for the plate if you have a currently registered (not on hold) car in the same name - which I don't. So I swapped the plate entitlement to my partner and have requested it to be manufactured for her car. But because I don't really want her driving around with my mint plate, I want to take it off immediately. What do I need to do? Just go to VTNZ and tell them we don't want p-plates on the car any more, and they'll issue a new regular plate? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shizzl Posted October 29 Share Posted October 29 Yup, just get new plates from VTNZ. i put my p plates onto my work vans. get some funny looks at times, people often ask what’s with the plates. both hoaxes are RX3UTE and 808UTE can’t be bothered sorting them yet 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gibbon Posted October 30 Share Posted October 30 my car is now modified beyond the scope of it's old metal cert plate, so It'll need to have the new mods certified, but there are also some old mods which are still installed. Will these just get grandfathered over onto the new electronic cert, or will they actually need to be inspected again? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted October 30 Share Posted October 30 new mods get checked to the rules of now old mods get a quick check to make sure they are safe and were done correctly the first time 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shizzl Posted October 31 Share Posted October 31 Driveshaft hoops. i have a 2 piece shaft. I take it I’ll need to run 2 hoops? this is the rear set up. How do I get a hoop to work on this and be compliant? all factory in that photo, nothing modified. only the front shaft was modified and fitted with new UJs and centre bearing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted October 31 Share Posted October 31 yes will need two loops you will need to make some legs off the crossmember to attach the loop to the chassis, or bolt it to the tray floor with doubler plates on the top of the tray floor requirements are in the CCM for dimensions, bolt sizes etc 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RXFORD Posted November 1 Share Posted November 1 Yeh just kick it back to the right spot. This is one I did a while back for an L200 ute. Bit overkill with some of the material thicknesses but I had it on the shelf. I split it for user-friendlyness plus it incorporated some spacers where it mounts to x-member to lift the carrier bearing and I angled it to suit driveshaft angle. 9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shizzl Posted November 1 Share Posted November 1 @RXFORD cheers for that thats a nice set up. that’s what I will need to do then so I can get the driveshaft in and out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bling Posted November 1 Share Posted November 1 Shit that's tidy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shizzl Posted Saturday at 04:56 Share Posted Saturday at 04:56 With doubler plates etc on the seats, I’ve read the ccm, it says that the doubler plate needs to be either threaded or with a “captive nut”, and bolted/riveted/welded by no less than 2/no more than 4 points. my question is though, can this “captive nut” be on the seat brackets with the bolt going upwards from underneath? Doubler plate will still be mechanically attached. there is not enough room between the seat and bracket/floor to get a hand in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted Saturday at 09:58 Share Posted Saturday at 09:58 Yes that's fine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shizzl Posted Sunday at 02:55 Share Posted Sunday at 02:55 Legend, thanks Clint Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
440bbm Posted 18 hours ago Share Posted 18 hours ago Hey clint, have you seen any quality or issues with any of the PST or Firm Feel suspension / steering componentry for the american iron stuff? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted 18 hours ago Share Posted 18 hours ago Don't really see a lot of it, each different model of vehicle can have different traps for lvv rules so just have to assess everything as I see it Manufacturers can change their construction methods at any point too which makes things tricky, ie QA1 started making lower arms with a nice single piece ball joint housing which is forged steel to simplify manufacturing, but now can't be certed here due to welded forged parts 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
440bbm Posted 18 hours ago Share Posted 18 hours ago thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shizzl Posted 14 hours ago Share Posted 14 hours ago I’m getting into the brake system in the ute and want it to be legit. its running FC rx7 calipers and discs all round. what’s the main points to consider when upgrading the master and lines? I’ve been recommended to use a Wilwood tandem master with a bias unit. I believe the stock rx7 master is a 15/16” from what I can dig up. most Wilwood units seem to be 7/8” or 1”, would the 1” be ideal with the booster less master? with brake lines, can it all be AN braid or hardline only. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted 14 hours ago Share Posted 14 hours ago 30 minutes ago, shizzl said: I’m getting into the brake system in the ute and want it to be legit. its running FC rx7 calipers and discs all round. what’s the main points to consider when upgrading the master and lines? I’ve been recommended to use a Wilwood tandem master with a bias unit. I believe the stock rx7 master is a 15/16” from what I can dig up. most Wilwood units seem to be 7/8” or 1”, would the 1” be ideal with the booster less master? with brake lines, can it all be AN braid or hardline only. Stock FC would be boosted right? You'll need a smaller M/C bore, or different pedal ratio, or maybe both to make them work unboosted, even then I dunno if you'll get there. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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