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For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs


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On 21/10/2024 at 21:13, ajg193 said:

Apparently the new black/silver plates have been discontinued, last day to order them is 31st Oct. They will all be black/white

Post from reddit:

"

NZ Transport Agency Waka Kotahi (NZTA) have made the decision that black numberplates with silver text will no longer be available, due to a readability issue.

The last day to order a black numberplate with silver text will be 31 October 2024. To ensure that you can have your plate(s) made with silver text, you will need to request manufacture with Licensys (the government plate manufacturer) no later than 30 November 2024.

What happens if you don't request manufacture by 30 November 2024?

If you do not request manufacture before this date, then you will still be able to have your plate(s) manufactured in the same design, however, instead of silver text the plate(s) will come with white text.

We wanted to let you know of this important change and provide you with the opportunity to have your plate(s) made as you have ordered.

It is important to note that while no new plates with silver text will be issued, NZTA have no plans to recall existing black plates with silver text; any plates that are already registered on a vehicle will still be legal to use in New Zealand. Black plates with white text will continue to be available for customers to purchase through KiwiPlates."

 

So this has caught up with me. I have an unmanufactured silver-on-black plate for the Gemini. However, you can only request manufacture for the plate if you have a currently registered (not on hold) car in the same name - which I don't. So I swapped the plate entitlement to my partner and have requested it to be manufactured for her car. But because I don't really want her driving around with my mint plate, I want to take it off immediately. What do I need to do? Just go to VTNZ and tell them we don't want p-plates on the car any more, and they'll issue a new regular plate?

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Yup, just get new plates from VTNZ.

 

i put my p plates onto my work vans. 
get some funny looks at times, people often ask what’s with the plates. 
 

both hoaxes are RX3UTE and 808UTE

can’t be bothered sorting them yet

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my car is now modified beyond the scope of it's old metal cert plate, so It'll need to have the new mods certified, but there are also some old mods which are still installed. Will these just get grandfathered over onto the new electronic cert, or will they actually need to be inspected again? 

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Driveshaft hoops.

 

i have a 2 piece shaft. I take it I’ll need to run 2 hoops?

this is the rear set up. How do I get a hoop to work on this and be compliant? 
 

all factory in that photo, nothing modified. 
 

only the front shaft was modified and fitted with new UJs and centre bearing. 

IMG_0723.jpeg

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yes will need two loops

you will need to make some legs off the crossmember to attach the loop to the chassis, or bolt it to the tray floor with doubler plates on the top of the tray floor

requirements are in the CCM for dimensions, bolt sizes etc

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Yeh just kick it back to the right spot. This is one I did a while back for an L200 ute. Bit overkill with some of the material thicknesses but I had it on the shelf. I split it for user-friendlyness plus it incorporated some spacers where it mounts to x-member to lift the carrier bearing and I angled it to suit driveshaft angle. 

FB_IMG_1730422390310.jpg

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With doubler plates etc on the seats, I’ve read the ccm, it says that the doubler plate needs to be either threaded or with a “captive nut”, and bolted/riveted/welded by no less than 2/no more than 4 points.

 

my question is though, can this “captive nut” be on the seat brackets with the bolt going upwards from underneath?

Doubler plate will still be mechanically attached.

there is not enough room between the seat and bracket/floor to get a hand in there.

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Don't really see a lot of it, each different model of vehicle can have different traps for lvv rules so just have to assess everything as I see it 

Manufacturers can change their construction methods at any point too which makes things tricky, ie QA1 started making lower arms with a nice single piece ball joint housing which is forged steel to simplify manufacturing,  but now can't be certed here due to welded forged parts

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I’m getting into the brake system in the ute and want it to be legit.

 

its running FC rx7 calipers and discs all round. 
 

what’s the main points to consider when upgrading the master and lines?

I’ve been recommended to use a Wilwood tandem master with a bias unit.

I believe the stock rx7 master is a 15/16” from what I can dig up.

most Wilwood units seem to be 7/8” or 1”, would the 1” be ideal with the booster less master?

 

with brake lines, can it all be AN braid or hardline only.

 

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30 minutes ago, shizzl said:

I’m getting into the brake system in the ute and want it to be legit.

 

its running FC rx7 calipers and discs all round. 
 

what’s the main points to consider when upgrading the master and lines?

I’ve been recommended to use a Wilwood tandem master with a bias unit.

I believe the stock rx7 master is a 15/16” from what I can dig up.

most Wilwood units seem to be 7/8” or 1”, would the 1” be ideal with the booster less master?

 

with brake lines, can it all be AN braid or hardline only.

 

Stock FC would be boosted right? You'll need a smaller M/C bore, or different pedal ratio, or maybe both to make them work unboosted, even then I dunno if you'll get there.

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