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Wow! I really haven't updated this in a while. There's been a bit of progress in the last 7 months, but not a heck of a lot. I've been mucking around with brakes, dashes, diffs and cooling. In the end, I decided that shortening my axles the "build up and machine down" way was going to be okay, so I sent them to Howat Engineering and had 35mm lopped off and the splines cut back on. I then took the housing to Tin Tricks where it had the Gemini mounts cut off, was shortened and had the 4-link brackets slid on. I left the ladder bar mounts on so it still had a way to mount to the car when I had to move it. Turns out I was spot on with my measurements. The wheels just sit inside the arches - will need some work done to get unobstructed bump - and I have about 15-20mm clearance on the inside. So pretty happy. I've also spent a bunch of time prototyping up some parts with the 3D printer. Throttle body adapter: Brake caliper adapter: Master cylinder adapter: And for those of you who recall ages ago I was trying to make a new tacho face for my dash, I've gone in too deep. I've designed and printed up an adapter which uses all the stock mounting points and screws, as well as a new face which has the cutout for my CAN screen: I then had it MJF printed in PA20 nylon. Unfortunately it warped so I need to have another go and add some ribs in to strengthen it. I was planning to paint it myself using modelling paints, but I'm not sure that I have the ability. I spoke with Charlie's Pinstriping out west who said they could do it. When I get around to fixing up and printing a new version I'll take it up. Last thing that I've been doing for quite a while is working with Ross Performance in Australia to develop a harmonic damper and water pulley for the Isuzu 4Z engines. They have pretty much finished, I'm just waiting on one or two people to test some 3D printed templates to make sure everything lines up. And lastly I have been talking with Skeleton Welding down south to build me a new radiator. It's been a bit of a packaging saga to try and fit the radiator, intercooler and oil cooler up front. But I think with a bit of ingenuity I'll be able to make it work. Speaking of the oil cooler, I got this "cool" one from CSF: The car is now in at Shores NZ having the 4-link boxes welded in and the rear turrets strengthened for coilovers. So progress is happening!

Awesome. Thanks Clint. I assume the same would apply if i was to incorporate the shock tower strengthening hoops into it?

Thanks Clint. Is there a limit to changing the cage? When the car is in for the 4-link work, I might ask if they have any suggestions about making it better. I was looking for half-cage rules, but couldn't find them specifically.

Yeah, essentially everything in the car except the existing cage needs certing as it's all changing.

The old cert does not have any pictures, although Clint knows I'm asking this question I just don't want to end up in a situation where I have to rebuild the main hoop because adding the gussets effectively means the cage is no longer the same as how it was when originally certed. If that makes sense.

My current understanding that my because my car is currently certed for its half cage with the old diameter main hoop, I can keep it through the recert for all the other changes I am making to the car (brakes, engine, suspensions, etc.). Is this correct? And can I add some central gussets to the cage without having to recert it?

The other option is thread the outside of the master cylinder inlets. There is definitely enough meat, just need to measure to see if it's a common thread size.

An update on this. I just spoke with Brian and Howat Engineering and he said the best option is to weld up, chop and respline the axles I have - it's like $100 each - and if it goes south make something up later (around $400 per billet axle). His reckoning was that in a small car like the Gem it'll break traction way before it shreds the splines, and mentioned that they had drag cars with welded and resplined axles and that it was all good.

Ah yeah. That's a good idea. Could easily weld a dash fitting on the top as well. What's the deal with determining the OD of the push-fit in relation to the master cylinder inlet ID?

I can't quite visualise this idea in my mind

Cheers man. Might give him a call today then. I guess the main thing here is that I am a bit concerned about having to remove too much material off the back to get the 4x100 working nicely. Not sure if that would end up any different to something that is custom made though.

They are kinda gross but might have to do!

I emailed Howat a few weeks ago actually, but heard nothing. There is a place up this was called Precision Engineering that I hear can do them. But I'll look at those ones which you suggested too @Testament

Who makes them in NZ? I spoke with Altra9 (Aus) and they don't do Hilux axles.

Interesting. I assume that the gate powergrip clamps have some kind of adhesive in them. I wonder how that would react to the brake fluid if any managed to sneak around. It's not pressurised, though, so should be okay.

Yeah, it's more for looks than anything else.

I am keen to run my master cylinder to a remote reservoir with braided lines. The problem is that there are no threads in the master cylinder inlet, only these clamp on plastic things. What's the best way to adapt this to braided lines that I can thread in to the reservoir? My two thoughts have been using some kind of rubber bung and a push in adapter that is threaded on the other end, or welding on something threaded but was advised not to weld the master cylinder as it might warp.

*groan* I wonder then, either my axles have less material on the gusset, it's been machined down to fit the disc, or the disc has been machined out to fit - or a combo of all of this. Need to pull it apart and look. This is starting to feel too hard! Maybe I should just shell out for the full floating kit.

I thought they were from an RN40, but I don't remember. The diff came from the deep south about 15 years ago, paid squat for it! Do you know the length of the early KUN axles? Not sure on the brakes. I've not seen AE92 ones. Here's what I have:

Here's some pics, my brake hub register is different to both of the ones your posted. You can also see where they were welded and redrilled - originally they were 5 stud. The housing is the welded type. It's difficult - I don't think the wreckers are going to just let me pull out a bunch of axles! Might just look for KUN ones. Yep @cletus, I've factored that in. Rear calipers all seem to have massive handbrake mechanisms, or have really small pads. I think I can make the AE101 work by shifting it and mounting the coilover above it so it the turret give it the necessary clearance. Any suggestions on low pro calipers that still have a decent pad size?

I need to run 4x100. Currently I have AE101 discs and calipers on the axles/housing which I have been running for years (rotor behind WMS). Not only am I wanting to shorten the axles/housing, but I'm also changing to coilover from coil/spring, and to 4 link from a 3 link ladder bar setup. Considering all this together is why I considered starting from scratch! I'd like to keep the brake setup though, it works well.

I want to go down to around 1350-1360 width.

Yeah, you're right. I need to pull my axle out again and measure it up. I have found some axles such as this: https://www.nitro-gear.com/Toyota-8-8-4-Nitro-Chromoly-CTL-Axle-p/axt34060.htm But even cut down to the narrowest I don't think will be short enough. That's good to know about the spigot - I thought they were necessary for ensuring strength.

I did initially when I was looking for something that was the correct centrebore. At this point I may as well just buy some blanks with extra long spines that can be cut down. Then I can just machine down the centrebore and be done with it. I'll have another look.

Yep, mine is the one with the weld down the centre. It's starting to feel like with the work I will have to do I may as well start again with a Borgwarner or something, as they have heaps of drop in aftermarket heads and probably a lack of annoying axle tapers.