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Everything posted by zep

  1. Sweet. I need to double check that 10mm wont mean the bolts interfere with the hub, but it should be okay. I am still in the planning stage of working out the shape, but yes, they will dogleg back like the stock ones, maybe 10mm further back. I may be able to have a mate CAD them up and CNC cut them so they are one piece with no welding needed.
  2. Hey @cletus - I'm looking to fabricate new caliper mounts for some Brembos I've got my hands on. Essentially, they will be similar to those in the pics below, but the bolt holes will be spaced wider apart and will sit back towards the car about 10mm more than current. Is there anything I need to be aware of in terms of metal types, strength, thickness etc?
  3. So @Abarthand I were out at Pick A Part last weekend failing to remove a Fiat crank when we stumbled across an Alfa Romeo 159 3.2 V6. Some guy on my street has two 156 GTAs and I have been eyeing up the brakes. Fortunately, the 159's brakes were still there, and yep they are 4-pot Brembos. For $49 a caliper I figured I'd see if I could make them fit on my current setup some how. Obviously some machining/engineering is necessary but it looks like they *just* might! It is super close though. The pad material uses 100% of the braking surface on the rotor. The total pad hangs over by lik
  4. Both the catch can and the dual reservoirs have finally been completed! I just need to get them mounted in their spots and I'm pretty much ready to start on panel and paint. I've found an old boy who's keen to do so am pretty happy!
  5. This update has been a very long time coming - just due to life and covid etc. Ages ago I got in contact with a friend of a friend who was willing to help me make an oil catch can and a combined sprayer reservoir and radiator overflow. All the parts cut up: Reservoir/overflow bent and mocked up: He warned me that he was newish to TIG welding, but I'm happy enough with how this came up: There are still a few bits to do on it to get the washer motor and overflow inlet attached, shouldn't be long now. The catch can bent up: And welded:
  6. Cheers man. Will be keen to have a chat about a few different things that need a cert soon.
  7. Looking to do some chassis strengthening up the front of my car. I'll probably buy this kit, or make up my own version. https://www.retrofication.co.uk/338.html Mostly keen on the A pillar gussets and the chassis to bulkhead gussets. Am I going to run to any issues?
  8. I probably haven;'t really addressed it. But it is a similar build to the g-series I had in there before. It's just a slightly more modern (barely) engine. Saying that, there is at least one dude in Aussie with a 10.5:1 comp g-series running 35psi or something. So it is doable.
  9. With a turbo on an engine designed in 1980?
  10. Chris finished welding up the mounts, just need to be cleaned up and coated now. Should be super solid. Now I can get back on to sorting the sump out.
  11. Did you ask for real progress? @EURON8 and I (mostly Chris) have got the engine mounts for the D1 tacked up. Chris will weld them up and then I can get back to sorting the sump. At this point I could pretty much have put a better engine in. At least it's still Isuzu? Also, thanks to @Snoozin @Spencer and @Thousand Dollar Supercar for their help with the AE101 brake kits. They turned up this week
  12. Just to reply to myself further, I found this in a 2T/3T workshop manual. Can I assume from this that the factory length is 109mm? And if so, if the 110mm valves are good on the exhaust, should I go for 109mm or 111.54 on the intake?
  13. I wonder if any one reading this knows the factory length of a 2TC/3TC valve stem? I was assuming that they were 110mm based on these, which I've been told will be fine for my head (https://www.speedfactoryracing.net/products/supertech-tivn-1063-supertech-performance-valves-toyota-2tc-3tc-intake-valve-44x8x110mm-ss-backc) But there are all sorts of other aftermarket valves with different lengths. Basically I'm trying to find out what "factory length" means for these valves: https://www.euroexportinc.com/toyota-3tc-2tc-45mm-stainless-steel-intake-valve-set/ If it's 110mm the
  14. Thanks for the offer but I think I'll be okay. I have a head and also you can buy new ones still, so if I mess this one up I should be okay!
  15. Hopefully I don't need to cut anything then! That could be an decent option too.
  16. This is for an Isuzu 4ZD1 with a 4ZE1 head. Stock valves are 38mm/44mm, I want to go up to 39mm and 45mm. I will be using Porsche elephant feet swivel adjusters, so there should be some room to adjust them up: https://lnengineering.com/products/oem-911-adjusters.html These will probably be what I buy for the exhaust: https://www.speedfactoryracing.net/products/supertech-tevn-1063-supertech-performance-valves-toyota-2tc-3tc-exhaust-valve-39x8x110mm-ss-blk - I've been told they work but I must be honest, I've been lazy and have not measured my stock valve length. Assuming that th
  17. Haha, perhaps I don't understand what I'm talking about. I'm learning here. To keep the installed height of the spring the same as stock, doesn't the distance between the groove and the spring seat (is that its name?) need to remain the same as stock? So if the groove is further up the valve then the spring is not installed at the same height. Am I going crazy?
  18. Wouldn't that depend on the distance the grooves are cut from the valve face, relative to the stock ones?
  19. Are there any issues with wrecking the hardening process?
  20. I am trying to chase down some 45mm valves with 110mm stems for my engine. It's becoming apparent that they do not exist off the shelf. I can find ones that that are slightly longer or shorter (up to 5mm longer or 2mm shorter). What is the go here? If I have adjustable rocker feet that this make up the difference? Is 5mm longer too long? Cheers
  21. No huge update here. I have been playing around with Sketch Up and had a jam at mocking up the sump bowl: Also received more stuff. This is a booster check valve for using a braided hose. In other news. @EURON8 has been helping me get the 4ZD1 into the engine bay, making mounts, as well as mounting my new intercooler.
  22. I've also been working on how the sump for the 4ZD1 is going to work. There are two main problems: the bowl is super low, like 50mm below the x-member which is already quite low itself, and the wing of the bowl is below the exhaust and is going to get in the way of any decently size down pipe that I need to use. You can see the tight fit here: Here's the bowl sitting low: The x-member is quite snug up under there and it hang down quite a bit. But essentially it's just an empty bowl. My plan is to cut off the wing and weld on a new bowl that is raised, moves the wing to
  23. One thing I have been working on is redesigning the tacho. I was not lucky enough to be the owner of a Gemini with a "tacho dash", mine had a clock instead. Back in the day I did the old A-pillar tacho and kept the clock. You can see them in this picture. Also now I have holes in my A-pillar that I need to fix. Later on I removed the clock and put a tachometer from (I think) a Ford Laser in its spot. It was just hot glued in there and was backlit. It actually looked okay but I always wanted it to have move of a stock look. This is what the tacho dash looks like: The goal wa
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