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zep

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Everything posted by zep

  1. zep

    PAINT THREAD

    Hey all, does anyone have any tips for prepping and spraying textured interior plastic? I've been looking on YouTube and most of the videos seem to talk about smoothing it out first and are aimed at exterior parts like bumpers and door handles. This is what I'm working with:
  2. I do have a set of 225/45R15s, which is what I had before. I changed to the 245s because I didn't like the difference in sidewall stretch between the front and rear, which is maybe me being pedantic, but I'd prefer fatter on the rear than front! Here's the 225s without the panhard rod properly adjusted, so I'm not sure how well this fits either: For reference, here are the 205/50R15s on 7.5" wide rims on the front:
  3. Yeah, it's looking like the N729 might be the only real options. I'm really only trying to achieve less width as the AR-1s are wider than their specs and I am in struggle street getting the rears on bumps with no rubbing: I wonder if the CR-S is similar in width to the AR-1... quick google suggests they are wider again. I've looked into machining down the wheel offset but there isn't enough meat, machining down the hubs but it's about the same, or pulling the guards, but I really want it to stay looking as stock as I can and I don't know how well that can be done.
  4. Question though - do you reckon they will handle power? Like 400hp/1000kg car?
  5. Thanks. I'll have a look at them.
  6. Hey everyone, I have this staggered setup. Currently I have Nankang AR-1 205/50s on the front and 245/40s on the rear. I am wondering what might be a good non-semi alternative to these that will keep a sidewall that is either mostly identical between the two widths, or slightly buttier in the rear. I'm struggling to find something decent that might work. Any thoughts? Must pass the stringent cert laws
  7. I currently have 280mm, but could swap them out for 269mm, 262mm or 260mm rotors as I haven't made the Wilwood caliper bracket yet. I also wary that I am running 266mm rears (but just single pot sliders) so don't really want to be too far under that. With the current 49mm rotor offset, the calipers will sit further in, so should be closer to the backside of the wheel. Hrm, my measurement of 330mm might be okay then, as long as the caliper is deep enough into the wheel.
  8. Hrm, with the 165 radius to the outer caliper, that puts them at 330mm, so they wouldn't clear either of them. Might need to find a smaller rotor. Actually, looking at it again, it would depend where the rotor sits. Mine are fairly deep, i.e. the rotor is behind the 25mm hub and has a 49mm offset, which is quite deep.
  9. I'm trying to determine if I can fit 14s over my brakes but don't have a 14" wheel to try. The outside radius of my caliper is about 165mm from the hub centre, so it works out to be a diameter of 13". I know that the wheel diameter is measured across the bead, but it's hard to find an ID of the barrel for brake clearance. I figure that this will be different across different wheels, but could someone with some Japanese 2/3 piece wheels please give me a measurement? Thanks!
  10. Ok, sweet. I guess I just don't want to have it all nice and neat only to find that I need to do something major that requires repainting things. With the painted suspension/chassis/etc, you still want to see unpainted pics of welds and stuff right?
  11. What's the deal with certing your build before paint? Ideally I'll build the entire thing, get road legal, then paint - ensure I don't need to make any changes that would affect new paint. Are there any issues with having cert photos of the car without it's fancy new paint job?
  12. There is one on Rosebank Rd, https://kwikstrip.co.nz/our-services/ Pretty sure the dude lives in the facility, sure looks like it. Edit... that place is in Penrose. Here's one in Onehunga - https://www.powerstrip.nz/
  13. zep

    Removing gauge faces

    The Marina gang coming in hot! I don't think it's hollow. It has a few mms of internal space at the end but probably not enough to thread. I'll put one in the drill press later and see if it wants to pop out.
  14. zep

    Removing gauge faces

    They are from my Gemini. If I have to drill out the end of the pin, that's not the end of the world. I could always reassemble with a screw and nut. You don't see the pin heads when it is assembled anyway.
  15. Tachos and speedos are screwed down, but I am not sure how to remove the faces of these fuel and temp gauges. Does anyone have any clues? Should I try and tap out what looks to be a pin? I'm a bit worried about breaking them.
  16. I do have somone who will let me borrow a 245 for the rear. Real estate wise, the rear should be fine, at least on the inside. Can always panel the guards to make it fit. Front I'd need to check.
  17. It looks like the SUR4G only comes in 225/45r15 and the N Fera Sport R have the same options as the AR-1s. Ideally I need a 235 in the rear to even it out. My other thought is that maybe R888Rs in 225/50 might be a bit more even.
  18. It does make me wonder what a 195/50 would look like on the front.
  19. Unfortunately too late now! My only hope is that I can run 245/35s... Or pay to make wheels less wide, which no one would do.
  20. Put it back in the engine bay haha. At least that way I'd have fewer cable to pass through the firewall.
  21. I'm after some OS hivemind thoughts on two things: First - tires. When I had my wheels widened, I went with 7.5 and 8.5. I figured that as 205/50s and 225/45s have very similar sidewalls and the width is not much different (approx 5mm), they should look similar on the wheels. Now most people would probably not pick it, but the I can't stop seeing that the rears are more stretched than the fronts. These are Nankang AR-1s. I'm not sure if I should just get over it, or try and find some tires that will have a more similar look front and rear... while also being able to deal with a good amount of power. Any thoughts? Second - where to put my battery. I'm planning to use a FullRiver HC20 and have mocked up a box. I don't really want to put it all the way in the boot, so I've got three ideas. Under the rear seat delete panels: (Mostly) under the centre console - it probably covers about 2/3 of it: Or under the passenger side dash, which will also house the ECU/PMU etc: As long as it's well fixed down, I'm not sure there are issues with any... maybe under the dash is too close to the passenger in the event of a crash? Running the big-ass cables to the rear seat is kinda annoying, and having it sticking out from under the console might look a bit naff. Thoughts? >>>
  22. Ah shit. I was copy-pasting, not hot linking. I figured the board was smart enough to create the image. Will fix it up tomorrow.
  23. Cheers mate! Yeah, he races a custom-built offroader in the weekends, but also does heaps of other street/track stuff, so I'm inclined to think it's ok. It does feels like I'm almost there but also now comes some very expensive parts! And the engine build feels like a whole new thing to deal with. Some of the development that was happening over in Aussie with the new rockers has hit some hiccups and not sure I'll end up running them. But most of the other bits are easy enough. Oh, and the modded sump to finish!
  24. Yeah, I did wonder. I kinda left Tim to make some of these decisions for me considering building this stuff is his day job. Might be a good idea to check the articulation without the shocks in there.
  25. Ooooookay. So the next milestone is done: 4-linking and rear coilovers sorted and some strengthening up front. Continuing on from my post last August (!!! what?!), now that I have got the suspension parts from ShockWorks, I took the car back to Tim at ShoresNZ to finish off the 4-linking and coilover conversion. It started off with cutting out the old rear turrets and building some butty new ones that are able to hold the weight of the car. Tim builds these as a bolt in mount: The rest of the rear end included welding up all the link mounts, building new ones for the shocks, swaybar and panhard rod. Tim also made a new panhard to suit the new setup. I also had Tim build some gussetting around the chassis to firewall interface, as having the side intrusion bars as part of the half cage tends to stiffen the rear up to the bottom of the A-pillar and leave it all flexy up the front. Ideally you'd just have a full cage but I don't really want to do that. So this should hopefully add some strength and stiffening to the front of the car. Next thing is to get the rear end properly rebuilt and coated. And obviously continue with the other million things I'm working on!
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