Popular Post cletus Posted November 16 Popular Post Share Posted November 16 An outlaw could make an arm that was not adjustable and put a nolathane/superpro/etc sticker on it so it looks like an aftermarket one but that would be illegal of course 6 3 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmulally Posted November 20 Share Posted November 20 Hopefully a simple question but can't seem to find the answer here with park lights (position lamps apparently). Do they need to be on a different switch setting to main beams? Wiring my Landrover from scratch and only have a two way switch for the lights and getting a three way switch will be worth more than the car when completed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
igor Posted November 20 Share Posted November 20 It must be possible to switch on the sidelights while the headlights remain off. How about using the two position switch for sidelights and headlights with a separate switch for high and dip beam? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllTorque Posted November 20 Share Posted November 20 I can’t see anything in the VIRM that says they need to be independent to the headlights. Modern motorcycles often have a park light and headlight on at the same time with no option to have just the park light unless the engine is off. But I would do as Igor suggested. https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/lighting/forward-facing-position-lamps 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmulally Posted November 20 Share Posted November 20 3 hours ago, igor said: It must be possible to switch on the sidelights while the headlights remain off. How about using the two position switch for sidelights and headlights with a separate switch for high and dip beam? Fair enough cheers. I have a couple of spare switches floating around so will just have to have one labeled as park I guess. I already have the floor mounted switch for high beams. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldrx Posted November 23 Share Posted November 23 If I cut a section out of the middle of a front MacPherson suspension strut and re-weld (keeping threaded upper section) to shorten it then weld threaded tube over the top - do I need the join weld under the threaded tube NDT for cert before they are covered forever? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shizzl Posted November 27 Share Posted November 27 Seat mount doubler plate question. from what I read from the ccm, doubler plates must run front to rear, is that correct? so can’t go across the floor with the direction of the corrugations? just want to double check as making packers to conform to the floor is a bit of a pita , especially when having to bolt through, this will mean going through 16mm of material. gap between rises is 55mm on the rear points and 65mm on the fronts. pic shows the firewall at the top of pic, rear at the bottom obviously. hoping to have this section finished off this week Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RXFORD Posted November 28 Share Posted November 28 As long as the mounting hole is kept as central as possible on tje doubler plate (which is looks like it will be based off where your 4 holes are) i don't see why you can't just make 55mmx55mm square doubler plates and have them sit flat between the ribs. 3000sq/mm is the minimum requirement so 55x55 will be fine. Don't forget to radius the corners to 5mm. Are they stressed or non-stressed seats? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shizzl Posted November 28 Share Posted November 28 I don’t really understand the stressed unstressed thing. Oh yes I forgot the crucial 3000mm2 rule. i was going off the table they had. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RXFORD Posted November 28 Share Posted November 28 1 minute ago, shizzl said: I don’t really understand the stressed unstressed thing. Oh yes I forgot the crucial 3000mm2 rule. i was going off the table they had. Unstressed means the seatbelt and clasp mount to the floorpan of vehicle, so seat mounting fasteners can be 8mm or 5/16" Stressed means the seatbelt or clasp is attached to the seat itself, so seat mounting fasteners need to be upgraded to 12mm or 7/16" Yeh doesn't have to be one of the sizes on the chart. Just needs to be minimum 3000sq/mm and a minimum of 30mm wide. So as an example 30mmx100mm would work, but I wouldn't use that size for your application. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shizzl Posted November 28 Share Posted November 28 Arrrr right. Unstressed, I’ll use the factory belt pick up points. ive also redesigned the base mounts, getting cut and folded now so all one piece. With extra floor clearance and better seating position 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GARDRB Posted December 1 Share Posted December 1 On the seat mounting topic, I know it's pretty much "if you use aftermarket rails your children will die in a fire and you will crash into a school bus and everyone will die unless you mount your seatbelt to the floor using a doubler plate" But if you were to manufacture a seat bracket in a way that didn't have any welds (folding and bolting and heavyweight material) can you mount the belt to the bracket? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted December 1 Share Posted December 1 lvvta require engineering calculations for stressed seat bases to prove they are strong enough, so you can do it, even if theres welding involved. the doubler plate thing is usually just easier as its a tested recipe one with the anchorage that is attached base frame, and doesnt have seat belt loads going through the sliders would be easier to do, theres recipes for that somewhere for campervans that could be translated to use in other things the problem is, 95%of the available seat base frames that you can buy for aftermarket seats are cheap junk, when compared to what oem manufacturers do. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaxPower Posted December 6 Share Posted December 6 A mate has just brought 30mm wheel adaptors from the states for his Land Rover, hubcentric and well made, problem is they’re actually 38mm, is there a way he can cert them or they junk? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted December 6 Share Posted December 6 59 minutes ago, MaxPower said: A mate has just brought 30mm wheel adaptors from the states for his Land Rover, hubcentric and well made, problem is they’re actually 38mm, is there a way he can cert them or they junk? Thanks I think 20mm is the max allowed, so he's double screwed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaxPower Posted December 6 Share Posted December 6 4 minutes ago, Nominal said: I think 20mm is the max allowed, so he's double screwed. Think the 20mm rule is for spacers, 30mm for adaptors 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted December 6 Share Posted December 6 2 hours ago, MaxPower said: A mate has just brought 30mm wheel adaptors from the states for his Land Rover, hubcentric and well made, problem is they’re actually 38mm, is there a way he can cert them or they junk? Thanks https://lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_01-2022_Wheel_Adaptor_Minimum_Specifications.pdf If they meet the requirements in this info sheet he might be able to get them machined down? Alternatively if they aren't doing something mental like moving a -44 wheel another 38mm, he might be able to do a design approval process, and get an exemption It would probably be less hassle to just get some 30mm adapters made here by znoelli.co.nz 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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