oldrx

Not sure the longer runner would affect mixture much if at all? Always thought rear rotors died earlier was due to higher temps as coolant flows from front to rear, not hundy on that though

Yeah I think they are 90deg out, hoses were custom made many years ago, I can't remember who fkd up either me or the hose shop not sure how it went wrong. Plenty of length I think to put round ends on

Yeah just a plain hole for a banjo bolt I assume, if I cut this down I would need to remove material to the point it cuts approx 1mm off the diameter of the circular recessed section leaving the wall around 3.6mm thick on that side, would think that would be plenty?

Yeah thanks man thinking again about it maybe that would be the best way after all if I can find an off the shelf male/female kinda thing

I guess but not sure it would save much effort or be much more appealing to certifier. I guess worst case I could get a new line made with a round end to better suit caliper but not heaps keen($)

Can I remove material from this ali brake caliper in the casting area marked and still pass cert? The square fitting on the new flexi line fouls 2-3mm. Tempted to just file all the way across but machining would leave a nicer finish. If machining maybe take the whole lot off flush with fitting face?

Wouldn't triangulated mean no need for panhard or watts?

Yeah they are singles so all good there, some interneters say you need a specific trigger (wave form?) to trigger them that needs to come from an ecu, I dunno but this sounds bogus to me, dont think a coil is that complicated and a basic BIM will run it ok... thats my gut feel anyway

Team, anyone know if bosch BIM024 ignitors are compatible with FC Rx7 trailing coils? I have a pair of FC trailing coils would be nice to use one rather than buy a new coil for my trailing spark (dead MSD Blaster currently) Haltech describe the FC coil as "Waste spark ignition with Toggle-style Trail igniter. This ignition runs the same as a Distributor but has a signal from the ECU to tell the igniter to alternate the output between two coils."

Yeah pretty sure you guys are onto it, found a youtube that suggests the relay is built into the stalk (good one Toyota)

Does anyone know where the headlight (dimmer?) relay is on a 2001 Fielder? Got me absolutely buggered. Headlights both gone out (high beam work if you hold stalk in, factory spot lights and park lights work) at the same time, new bulbs, checked all fuses under bonnet and up under glove box, also checked all the relays I could find (engine bay, behind glove and one on drivers side behind coin tray) even though all are labelled for other shit.... arrrggg getting to work is sketchy with high beam and spot lights. Assume its the relay but cant find it to save my life.

The instructions are so great

Not many projects are cool enough to do twice, this truck rules man looking forward to updates

Not sure what the air box on 1zz is like but on my 2zz I removed the long skinny restrictive snorkel thing which improved driveability and economy I think, with the snorkel on it wants to jerkily engine brake severely when off throttle, without is much smoother and glides way longer at zero throttle (saving gas, 6.7L/100km)

Try putting lots of YouTube into it, fixes everything

Bit of no.8 wire bent roughly to radius push on hose add heat, what could go wrong

Use a fitting?

Is the minimum thickness for a custom fuel tank in mild steel still 1.2mm? Found some old references to the lvvt rules but couldn't find the actual rule online to be totally sure.

Not the easiest stuff to find, nzsafety the rapa had three tubes I think it was the only NI store with any....

Thanks team found some Hylomar Blue... Goo time

Oh yeah for sure but as well as a gasket I mean

What do you guys use sealant wise for intake manifolds? Nikki carby rotary in this case...

Keep in mind you may need extra hangars if converting from flanged join

Mmmm not sure how they got the hole that size, bit big for 3/4 i would think possible though i guess, would be interesting to measure some 3/4 plugs if they are oversize as much as my "20mm" plugs they may be perfect, may get some and check. Mostly the trouble i think is that its a coolant port to heat inlet manifold i.e. never intended to have a plug so they didnt need to care about exacting dims.

What OD should i aim for, take 0.5mm off leaving it over by 0.2mm ish, should interference fit its self in there at that size?