oldrx Posted May 23 Posted May 23 Planning on cutting the bump stop mounts off and plating over as coilovers have their own stops and need clearance, thoughts? Quote
cletus Posted May 23 Posted May 23 That would be fine, but Whenever changing bump stop position or length, you need to make sure that there are no things like arms fouling the body, tyres hitting the body, or joints binding because the suspension is operating in a different range of travel than the original design Bump stop type, location, and setup is one thing that is very common to get wrong, a lot of people don't understand what the bump stop does and how important it is 1 2 Quote
rotormotor Posted May 25 Posted May 25 My FC Rx7. Certed years ago for Tein coilovers and front strut brace. I have brandnew BC Gold 4 corners as recommended on here by OS, so future WOF be no issue I assuming. Further, fitting non factory turbo, FMIC, braiided engine bay lines etc so it WILL need a new cert or as engine still 13BT it 'not' modified? Quote
Bling Posted May 26 Posted May 26 Certs would be a great if you could change every part of the car and it was still ok, lol. 2 Quote
63Ragtop Posted June 3 Posted June 3 Asking for a friend, how would you get on certing a 356 coupe replica? Same as the roadster/vw based bathtub? 1 Quote
RXFORD Posted June 4 Posted June 4 I'm assuming its glass and on a shortened beetle pan? Who made the body? If its glass and on a beetle pan I would think it would be treated no differently than a vw beach buggy so it would end up as a 'scratchbuilt replica' But if its on a 356 pan it could be a different story. 1 Quote
63Ragtop Posted June 4 Posted June 4 Yes, fibreglass on a shortened vw floorpan. https://www.speedsterclinic.com/vehicles/356_a_coupe/ This place is in the UK, I'm sure there are others. I don't think the real ones ever had pans. Just occurred to me that you see plenty of convertibles and speedsters, which for some reason don't appeal to me. 4 Quote
cletus Posted June 4 Posted June 4 Would be do able for sure How difficult it would be is a how long is a piece of string question The main thing would be making sure the body has appropriate framing in it for seat belts, door hinges, door framing, torsional rigidity, etc. If it doesn't have this then adding it can be difficult depending on how the body is made 1 Quote
shizzl Posted June 8 Posted June 8 Right o lads. I’ve been chatting with a couple of guys about this topic and keen to know the answer to report back. is it legal here to “flip ball joints” .. relocate the ball joint above the lower arm using a spacer on top of the arm and a spacer to fill the void the ball joint took up. Obviously using higher grade bolts. im sure I’ve seen this posted somewhere but search results net zero. thanks in advance Quote
Crispy Posted June 8 Posted June 8 *Moved to correct thread* Hello, I want to add in some strengthening to the Mokes lower firewall/steering rack area. Either with a plate like this from Urchfab in the UK It looks like this and looks like this when welded in Or try make something similar up myself. Obviously I'm going to run it past my repair certifier. But has anyone tried to do anything similar to this before and it been fine? Would go a long way to strengthening the part where the bottom of the front subframe bolts up and the steering rack area, which is a common weak point and I have hear of cars cracking in this area due to fatigue. Quote
ul9601 Posted June 10 Posted June 10 Do less than 35% VLT pass WOF, if OE fitment? There are heaps, I think most of them being Japanese import have way darker than 35% VLT. How strict are the WOF outfits when it comes to tint and gigantic stickers and such? I got pinged for supposedly 13% tint (came with the car) and I think that was about right. Quote
Bling Posted June 11 Posted June 11 OEM is fine from memory and yeah as you say usually just imports and rear windows, the rest will be up to inspector but are fails usually. For stickers it depends where and how far they extend from the edge of the window. Also depends on vehicle class and all sorts of rules. Plenty of info for tint / overlays / stickers in the online VIRM documents. "came with the car" isn't going to trump any rules. All here: https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/vision/glazing 3 Quote
cletus Posted June 11 Posted June 11 On 08/06/2025 at 15:50, Crispy said: *Moved to correct thread* Hello, I want to add in some strengthening to the Mokes lower firewall/steering rack area. Either with a plate like this from Urchfab in the UK It looks like this and looks like this when welded in Or try make something similar up myself. Obviously I'm going to run it past my repair certifier. But has anyone tried to do anything similar to this before and it been fine? Would go a long way to strengthening the part where the bottom of the front subframe bolts up and the steering rack area, which is a common weak point and I have hear of cars cracking in this area due to fatigue. cant see a problem with that, would need lvv cert as its a modification, rather than a repair Quote
cletus Posted June 11 Posted June 11 On 08/06/2025 at 12:26, shizzl said: Right o lads. I’ve been chatting with a couple of guys about this topic and keen to know the answer to report back. is it legal here to “flip ball joints” .. relocate the ball joint above the lower arm using a spacer on top of the arm and a spacer to fill the void the ball joint took up. Obviously using higher grade bolts. im sure I’ve seen this posted somewhere but search results net zero. thanks in advance assuming you are talking about a ute or van where the ball joint is under the arm and the shock or bump stop is on the bottom arm probably ok if the bolts are big enough and that part of the arm is strong enough to handle bump loads, as they will be holding up the vehicle instead of just holding the joint against the bottom of the arm and theres no other problems like upper ball joint bind or mental camber because the suspension then has heaps more travel in bump Quote
RUNAMUCK Posted June 11 Posted June 11 1 hour ago, Bling said: OEM is fine from memory and yeah as you say usually just imports and rear windows, the rest will be up to inspector but are fails usually. For stickers it depends where and how far they extend from the edge of the window. Also depends on vehicle class and all sorts of rules. Plenty of info for tint / overlays / stickers in the online VIRM documents. "came with the car" isn't going to trump any rules. All here: https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/vision/glazing 20 odd years back, a friend blacked out his mid 80s turbo 323. (The first of the front tug ones) A cop pulled him up pretty close to home, and advised him that it was illegal/go home and scrape them off right now and I wont sticker your car. He also gave him a copy of the glazing rule/virm etc. (Whatever it was called in those days) He removed the tints, and studied what he'd been given. Then re-tinted it to the absolute letter. He interperpreted it where it says "stickers" within 100mm of the edges, and laid the absolute blackest tint known to man right around all the windows. (With the legal tint in the remainder of the windows) I was like bruh, you're gonna get stickered ow fulla bei! He was sure it was fine. Then one night out at the skids/diesels (as was the fashion at the time) he was accosted by a different policeman. Who said "scrape em off, or I'll sticker you!" My mate attempted to show him the literature the other cop had given him. But he refused to even read it. So he complained to the police complaints authority (as they were known then) and, The NZ police (taxpayer) had to pay for a shop to retint his car like it had been! (The shop made a nice job than he had too) My names Bart and that's my story. 3 1 5 Quote
ul9601 Posted June 11 Posted June 11 4 hours ago, Bling said: OEM is fine from memory and yeah as you say usually just imports and rear windows, the rest will be up to inspector but are fails usually. For stickers it depends where and how far they extend from the edge of the window. Also depends on vehicle class and all sorts of rules. Plenty of info for tint / overlays / stickers in the online VIRM documents. "came with the car" isn't going to trump any rules. All here: https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/vision/glazing yup im aware of that section of virm, actualli i asked vtnz about some (i thought to be) contradiction in ther but apparently i was wrong. but anyway, just wondered how these cars get away with ~5% vlt tints (i had 5% glare strip), big stickers with some sort of "car club logo" or filipina thing or RIP whatever someone s name is, usually south auckland cars. was tossing up going NA but apparently extra 40 bux rego for up to 0% vlt rear side and back. Quote
Bling Posted June 11 Posted June 11 WOF fails, as mentioned. People run around with wires sticking out of their tyres, doesn't mean they have found a loophole on tyre requirements. No idea what car you have, but how do you plan to turn it into a light goods vehicle? 2 Quote
ul9601 Posted June 11 Posted June 11 40 minutes ago, Bling said: WOF fails, as mentioned. People run around with wires sticking out of their tyres, doesn't mean they have found a loophole on tyre requirements. No idea what car you have, but how do you plan to turn it into a light goods vehicle? nzta put me in touch with vtnz branch which can inspect and change class - they said a couple hundy for fees (i think) and just fold the seats down and have it fixed (so that it wont be able to be reverted for seating readily , i.e. without tools) i think they said i wont even need to remove seat belts. its a wagon. i "may" need the cargo divider, but not sure. Quote
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