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made a bit more zorst but its way to loud. ill get a muffler for the back tomorrow and finish it off. Rhona has decided she wants to help with this build/ she thinks its her car for some reason so today she helped swap the ball joints. we'll do the other side when i turn the car around. 2018-10-14_01-03-23 by sheepers, on Flickr

WOOHOO!!! FRAK YEAH!! SHE IS ALL ROAD LEGAL!!!!! I'm going away to the South Island next Wednesday so it has been a mad rush to get it finished in time. Still a little list of things that I want to finish of but it drives really nice. I took it for it's first proper drive today and it is such a fun car to drive, stupidly quick and OMG does it ever sound amazing!! Got the cert plate back today, passed with flying colours. Here is the cert plate listing all the mods Got it's warrant of fitness. And registration First night back at home Here is a before shot, I love how you can barely tell I put the V8 in it. Such a sleeper. The big back wheels are pretty much the only thing that gives it away, they look so cool. Back in the garage with my other cars Other little updates. Painted the centre caps of the temporary front wheels. Doesn't actually look too bad now that it is all murdered out. Swapped over the front bumpers. The early Hillmans used a much smaller bumper than the late model Chrysler's. They don't bolt straight up, you need to drill a couple of holes then after that it bolts right up. You can see a good shot of the old bumper in the before photo above. Finished mounting the brake bias valve.

diff and engine set up

a

Mmmmmm, strawberries, frozen yog, fresh WOF, and a blast on country roads!

Borrowed the special tool spring compressor from Mr @EURON8 to jam the springs back in after popping everything back together with (some) new bushes. I left the other upper wishbone bushes in place as they were fine really, and replaced only the lower ball joints. The tire rod ends seemed pretty new too, so left them as is also cleaned up the front calipers, just a dissemble, clean and paint without removing the brake lines. I said up there i didnt want to go too low, but then i slapped myself upside the head and did as per the sedan 5.5 coils Also found a broken connector on the dizzy to HDI wire so re soldered and heat shrunk that, and then reset the timing a bit more advanced. Seems to run much better now for both reasons. Then a test utilization to a mates place to steal some gravel for a garden project. and to settle the suspension. Doggo loves ute Pretty happy with the stance and feel of the front suspension now, about 2" lower but still supple even with the lot shorter springs and new shocks. Rear is still very stiff but went well with a load on, and the rattly noise is still present. I think it may be a bearing in the gearbox or something. also stuck a 'period' sun visor sticker i got of TradeMe for $5, i did a fucken terrible job of it in the windy dark it looks like its been there for years.

Lifan the world.

Rust is listed as a spare part in the Haynes manual. Reading through this makes me miss my mini.....

A good trick is to adjust the shoes , then pump brake pedal and adjust all over again to centralise the shoe. The smaller the drum generally the smaller the notches on the adjuster , so a couple of clicks out can mean heaps of imbalance. Standing the glazing off the drum with emery tape by hand can also help bed the new shoes.

Scrap it

Handbrake test on gravel might give you an indication?

^ban

Some six months or so ago, after considerable research, (drunken chewing of the fat with our mates) and in depth self-analysis, (a Bottle of 101 Wild Turkey) both Rigamortice and myself came to the inevitable conclusion that the ideal carburation solution for the new 208ci “186 X2” had to be the period correct set of 3x 1¾ HS6 SU carbs on the vintage Speco manifold. We will however run the motor in and get the dodgy legals done with the tried and proven Weber DCD setup. (Anyone after a triple set of 40 DEOCE’s and a 9 port manifold – just ask). I did a quick dummy assembly with a spare motor for a bit of man-cave decoration.

looooong overdue update. got the old girl all legal in August a week before going away on holiday last month. so with the steering joint done i did some of the other failed items which was the brake pedal rubber being worn on the edge so new one of those got put on and rear shock bottom thread bent. so out came a socket and hammer and job done and they also failed all of the rear spring bushes incl the rubber spring pads so replaced the rear shackle ones as had them in stock already but as you can see the bushes are more perished than worn due to the Arizona heat and the spring pads and front bushes on the rear springs i pulled out and showed the compliance inspector that they are cracked from age and Arizona heat. so politely showed him and told him that he doesn't really know what hes doing. Not bloody worn and as you can expect i was not impressed being a mechanic myself and them inspecting the car twice before. so lubed the bushes and spring pads and put them back in. and that fixed the rear end squeak too! took the car back and got the wof label on the window. then took a old girl home after a bit of a drive and made a floor bung and placed the carpet and other trims back in.

Hi guys. It's been a while since last post. The car has been performing great and I'm still getting out an about in it, mostly on weekends. There's always something on at the local track every couple of months. I really wanted to get back onto the forum after growing somewhat tired of facebook and all the crap it can add to this hobby. Anyway... as far as developing the car. I have learned that gearbox ratios are very important. The W58 I have is quite low in first and second gear and a bit of a gap to third. Typical of road ratios. Well, a 600hp XR6T i've not been able to beat at roll racing finally fell behind me the last time out because I rolled on in 3rd instead of 2nd. 3rd has much longer legs and I didn't lose the speed changing from 2nd to third. So I looked into close ratio gear sets for the W58 and turns out they are available. At a cost of around $4500. Needless to say, the CR gearbox can wait. But gee it would make a difference. Also, the temptation to add more power has gotten the better of me. I have bought a used HKS GT2835R-56T , it's a Garrett GT3071R with a back cut rear wheel so it fits in the T25 exhaust housing. Compressor wheel will go from 47mm-60mm 62 trim, to 53.1mm-71mm 56 trim and more importantly the turbine, from 54mm-47mm 76 trim to 56mm-53mm 90 trim. I'm aiming to add around 30 or 40hp so 330~340hp at the wheels. My current GT2860RS is pretty much out of puff @ 300whp. At first I was going to fit a 67mm GTX billet wheel, effectively turning it into a GTX 2867R. It could probably make that extra power but nowhere near as efficiently as the GT2835R-56T. The larger turbine is where the benefits will come from. A larger set of Siemens Deka injectors will also be fitted. Jumping from 60lb (630cc) to 80lb (840cc) I took it to the drags a few months ago and it went 12.75 @ 113 mph (2sec 60ft) . Hoping with the new turbo and tune to crack into high 11's. If not I will just live with it because any more power will result in problems like gearbox failure, clutch failure, cracked block etc etc. So here's a pic of the car launching when I ran the 12 with 205 60 13 rear tyres. I was only able to achieve low 13's with 185 60 13 tyres, as soon as the 205's went on it was into the 12's. I might put in some 3.45 diff gears with the 185 tyres which would work out about the same as 205's and 3.9. Cheers

Crikey, i've been slack I stripped out the inside of the bumper with the wire wheel, used a rust cover primer and then slapped some black gloss on the inside. it was in good shape which was good The donkey went in, slowly. This is why you need to check your fuel sensor.... NOS vs OG Everything inside the bay now After being a retard and plugging one plug in the wrong slot and trying to spend an hour wondering why all my lights were being weird and the wrong ones flickered when I put the indicators on... it's all hunkey dorey! inside dust prevention Base laid down with Shiny! put the roof gutter chrome on For someones first time and only a rough clue of what is going on, I think this looks bloody mint *** I decided that I didn't like the early tail lights with the full chrome circle so got to swapping over the loom to the later type lights. Once I track down where my center trim has ended up I shall mount that too, but I think that looks much better After days of trying to get these wobbly doors right, I got them to the "best I can do" point, based and cleared them and they've come out pretty good I think. will assemble this weekend! Will put the potato phone-cam away next weekend and take some decent photos of the old girl. Build discussion:

Machined some wheel spacers for the back. The rear sitting at it's final width. Fills up the guard really well with no rubbing Did some last minute rust repairs. I'm not much of a panel beater but it came out pretty good. I will get the whole outside resprayed next year so it's only temporary. Also did some rust repair around the back, under the bumper on both sides Installed a brake bias valve. I have a bit too much front brakes with the willwoods. Decided to restore the front grille. It was painted solid body colour by the previous owner, which I never liked. Originally it would have been black and silver so that is what I went with. I started off by painting the whole thing black Then masking everything because I am going to hand paint it. Finished hand painting the grille. Looks pretty sweet. It back on the car Added Dynamat to the front doors. And the rear doors

@Leebo3 You should schedule some business in Wellington for this day, Come and service our knobs.

so its about 1 hose 150mm long away from having a bmw idle air control system ready to go on a old school 250 xflow. the bmw IACV (same on e use with these ITBs on the m3) using my trusty grinder and drill i made some brackets (about as engineering as i get ) found a place to mount it all and cover up the old fuel pump hole at the same time. welded the IACV pipe and painted it black and all in place just got to get a hose

OK so a bevvy of parts arrived from the states in the last couple of days. Heaps of electrical bits and a rear guard plus an aftermarket conversion kit for engine mount (so no longer need my home made one) Also my parts bike arrives from Dunedin on Sunday night, plan is to rip into full mock up on Monday and Tuesday. Maybe even try and kick it into life next week before full strip down and paint.

New inspirational photos of a Deluxe cub WITH a full rear fender... mmmmm mmm yummy

one of the pioneer box speakers blew , possibly because of the aliexpress head deck, so swapped the woofers with the 4" sonys that where hanging out the door cards when i got the truck. they were not exactly one of pioneers best efforts so nothing of value really lost, the mid range 'speaker' is just a plastic moulding. New JVC mechless head unit delivered for <$90, sounds pretty good now, i reckon at least 3x better than the $30 aliexpress special. This is what success looks like. Yes, that bed is coming into my house, not going to the dump.

According to the FSM, spring details Wishbones inclusing spares from a 125 sedan Judith crushing the old bushings out TOP 125 (post vinegar bath) and BOTTOM 125P lower wishbones. Grabbed one from the spares to swap out the bent one. They are the same length but away bar attachment is quite different (125p has a big square hole for drop link vs 125 has 2 holes for a u-bolt), so rather than cutting the other one, i heated the bent one with a propane torch and smashed it with the sledge and now its not quite as bent. that went in the vinegar bath for a few hours Wow! - vinegar bath for 2 days + water blasted. Clean one was worse then the still rusty one when it went in. Vinegar seems to get under the rust and it just blasts off like dirt. Recommended! 8l of vinegar was $14 Welded up the engine mounts on the cross member - they were not really loose as had i thought, but this should stiffen them up anyway Coat of rust converter then primered pretty sure none of this was the source of the noise, but there were a few little things that have been sorted now or ticked off the mental 'possibilities' list, and the front end will be tidy and tight when i put it back together with mostly new parts over the next week or so.

Some of my Ebay stuff has started arriving too, This sweet (english) factory manual (most of the engine pictures are from the Fiat 1300/1500 manual and the body stuff from the 125), it is however missing any electrical diagrams, which is the main thing i actually wanted And a 1:43 model. The canopy and pizza cutters didnt last long Weirdly the number plate is almost an exact match, only 1 character is not shared.