piazzanoob

After running the engine with the new spark plugs and there is no miss. Then removing the plugs when the miss appears what condition are all the plugs in? particularly no 4 This also might help identify what the plugs are doing.

can you guys help take down the neon signs after a big feed thanks boys

Figured this thread suited this best. Got given these ramps and axle stands by the neighbor. They were all covered in surface rust and figured I should blast and paint them being the weirdo I am Gave them a spray can primer. Then had to decide on a colour I didn't want a normal blue red or black. so caterpillar yellow/mustard they went. also gives me an excuse to get some spray gun experience And unfortunately can't post any photos of the axle stands due to file size

https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/chevrolet/auction-2241434027.htm?rsqid=3da44eafa457424f9dd65f9b918f20fe-001 perfect for next years cruiser mate will help get going etc will help flip leafs

so last year in 4 weeks i stripped the front and resprayed the engine bay. gave the engine some new parts and a spray can rebuild. chucked it back together as i wanted to take it to an event. got it mostly done the night before the event worked till 2am that night. did some more in the morning as had carb issues. then took it to the event and hoped for no breakdowns. i had pushed myself to finish it in time as a woman wanted to go to the event together and was keen to go in my car. plus would've been extra brownie points right? but it turned to shit before the event. but ended up taking a male mate instead. was good but still overheated... been super slack and haven't been updating this thread will try and update it in the next few weeks yeeah

motor is still in bits.. been making progress but slow due to doing other stuff and trying to get the machinist to come in on and Saturday and help work on it. did some stuff last Saturday but couldn't assemble heads due to wrong valve stem seal but should be sorting that this sat its Actually quite depressing when ive spent more time working on it than ive ever driven it.

About your painfull sanding experience ive found that its always much easier to do it while jamming some music in your headphones. or find someone like your mate or partner to give you a hand that way you can sharn away and get shit done. but the end result is most of the time very rewarding and worth all that time you spent doing it. unless you just want a bill and unrewarding experience because you just paid someone to do it but Anyway crank onto it and get it done to have some fun with it on the track

seen as your doing a full engine rebuild. one thing that should be done on these motors is to clean up the block casting in the valley where the oval holes are. they have small bits from the casting left there which can come off and destroy your new engine. just run a die grinder round there and ya good and anywhere else that may need it. oh and replace the distributor bush too also would personally buy new better heads than fix your current ones as most of the time the cost getting a shop to fit new guides and inserts plus valves isn't far off the price of new heads. but that depends on the condition of the heads Not trying to be a know it all or anything but i work at a engine shop so i know whats involved. plus im doing a 318 at the moment

Hit up youtube for checking and testing car charging systems pull out your multimeter then off ya go and diagnose ya fault swapping parts can chase ya tail plus its a bonus when ya learn something new

wouldn't bother with spray on chrome with something like wheels probably small things that are not seen all the time i guess would be fine. would just end up in disappointment or redoing in 12 months personally would just get it back to bare alloy then just polish them. And clearing them can turn yellow or dull or crazy cracking. this is if doing at home with a spray can etc. if wanting to do yourself just paint strip them and polish then re polish when needed. but also a good polish and good paint shop could clear them and they could last depending on conditions

yeah you could buy another chassis for that price. but he did say he wanted to restore the vehicle so either way another one would require dipping or blasting before painting.

best bet would be to get the chassis itself acid dipped. then most likely powder coating. or galvanized but that adds alot of weight onto it but the rest of the bits can just be sand blasted and either powder coated or painted. the most important thing is to get the rust from inside the chassis out and to stop the current rust on the inside getting worse.

Have had the same issue aswell fuel turned to a varnish and can end up into sludge i just used some small chain with some of the shitty fuel and moved it around abit. don't use bike chain just normal chain as it has no sharp edges does take a abit of time to get it nice depending on condition. also when i did it it didnt appear to affect the zinc coating And generally the zinc coating wears off than chipping off in this case and if you are worried about leaving crap in the tank just redo it after a few tank fills of gas. does make it easy if it has a drain though

Exhaust looks ace man! good to see that there are still good shops out there that take the time on the smaller details rather than getting it out the door

Also will be at beach hop but with no galaxie or car infact galaxie's heart is currently in bits awaiting machining. but keen to catch up with some OS folks if ya around