piazzanoob

Hit up youtube for checking and testing car charging systems pull out your multimeter then off ya go and diagnose ya fault swapping parts can chase ya tail plus its a bonus when ya learn something new

wouldn't bother with spray on chrome with something like wheels probably small things that are not seen all the time i guess would be fine. would just end up in disappointment or redoing in 12 months personally would just get it back to bare alloy then just polish them. And clearing them can turn yellow or dull or crazy cracking. this is if doing at home with a spray can etc. if wanting to do yourself just paint strip them and polish then re polish when needed. but also a good polish and good paint shop could clear them and they could last depending on conditions

yeah you could buy another chassis for that price. but he did say he wanted to restore the vehicle so either way another one would require dipping or blasting before painting.

best bet would be to get the chassis itself acid dipped. then most likely powder coating. or galvanized but that adds alot of weight onto it but the rest of the bits can just be sand blasted and either powder coated or painted. the most important thing is to get the rust from inside the chassis out and to stop the current rust on the inside getting worse.

Have had the same issue aswell fuel turned to a varnish and can end up into sludge i just used some small chain with some of the shitty fuel and moved it around abit. don't use bike chain just normal chain as it has no sharp edges does take a abit of time to get it nice depending on condition. also when i did it it didnt appear to affect the zinc coating And generally the zinc coating wears off than chipping off in this case and if you are worried about leaving crap in the tank just redo it after a few tank fills of gas. does make it easy if it has a drain though

Exhaust looks ace man! good to see that there are still good shops out there that take the time on the smaller details rather than getting it out the door

Also will be at beach hop but with no galaxie or car infact galaxie's heart is currently in bits awaiting machining. but keen to catch up with some OS folks if ya around

better be getting those ITS GOING TO BEACH HOP excuses for anyone sorting stuff on it

repco currently have a special on a vacuum gauge which is handy for tuning carbs otherwise hose and a coke bottle works for listening

Before you go and slap some new rings bearings and gaskets at it. it would be best to measure everything up. then order the right stuff first time doing a job twice or pulling the motor out again isn't much fun in my experience. As for cleaning pull all oil and water frost plugs out and clean it properly any oil or water buildup stuck somewhere could result in rebuilt motor being wrecked perhaps making an electrolysis bath could work for cleaning?

just bring galaxie down I took mine last year unregistered still on US plates and had no trouble

So with now having the engine black ready to bolt on everything I looked at it and was unimpressed how well it looked being that the engine bay also being black as then there would of been too much black. so ended up sanding all that off and painting it this colour. so these galaxie's ran black engine blocks from 1959 till 1965 then in 1966 they went to this blue colour which looks alot better than black. then after letting the paint dry i put the rest of the bolt on items back on the motor. then did some more painting on bolts And nuts And cleaned up the throttle linkage bit and turned it black No more Orange And cleaned up and painted other bits like the engine and trans dipsticks. then joined the two together to go back in then in the hole Also polished up the rocker covers and bolted them back on too. now its just piece everything back on while tidying bits up like the wiring and painting and cleaning bolts.

still progress is happening had a good look over the parts painted in primer and gave some bits a quick scuff then fired some gloss black on and painted the timing cover and oil filter housing And the same on the inlet manifold too also did the exhaust manifolds in high temp silver then gave the motor some loving Also when i stripped the motor i found this in the sump had to have a bit of a think to figure out where its from. but the sump also had plenty of rocks and dust collected in there too And the only reasoning why that was in the sump is that when the timing cover gasket was done in its past life that got put in along with rocks and dust as this part appears to be a small block chev rocker pivot ball for the valve train where as my motor factory run roller rockers so that part doesn't exist on my motor. so i also found a much easier way to do ford 2 piece rear main seals Remove all main caps but leave the conrod caps untouched then i used a gantry to slightly move the crank up which made sliding the bottom half of the seal around much easier. also placed some silicon where the two half's join as per seal manufacturers recommendation. and some on the top and bottom of the rear main cap side seals too. I then put a new oil pump on too seen as while im in there. then gave the motor a good wipe down and painted the motor. for this part i wanted the car to remain close to how it came from the factory and that has been pretty much for the whole car throughout the whole fix up process. plus that orange looked so shit so these fords of this era came out with black engines and either blue or gold rocker covers and air cleaner. cheers

oh shit! keen as but will be overseas on that date. im so gutted i can't come

so some progress has been happening laid down some primer after plenty of sanding also spent more time prepping the motor for paint too and pulled the timing cover off sump and oil filter housing and prepped them ready for paint And cleaned up some bolts ready for paint too ' I then started sandblasting the bonnet hinges and springs ready for paint also cheers m8