piazzanoob

What have they failed the belts on? When I complied the galaxie I had to go through seatbelt stuff which cletus ended up doing paperwork for to keep the lap belts

I'm currently trying to find the correct paperwork to fill out for a vehicle re registration purpose. Old owner de rego'd it and I purchased off him and want a paper trail that I bought it off him. To comply it again. I'm aware I can do a statutory of declaration but trying to find a vehicle specific one. But also old owner isn't local so can't just fill one out and get it signed etc Been to a local vtnz but they didn't have a clue and told me to ring nzta. And checked with a compliance officer and he is going to send me the file which is on nzta apparently. But who knows when I've searched and can't find any documents on nzta. Anyone know what form?

Yup 100% Would use dry glide myself as can get in a aerosol can to get in there and doesn't seem to dry out

you could use rubber grease silicon spray or crc dry glide.

VTNZ are very good at being useless sometimes talk to land transport about it and see where that goes

Ah dang it appears it probably wont due to the length of the bottle and size of lid. measured the brunox lid and its 63mm. but there might be a product similar to brunox that comes in a 1 litre that connects to the SCA gun but would have to do some research. and many cavity waxes and body underseal connect to the SCA style gun. oh sweet. most standard panel beaters i would think wouldn't have a trolley but if the shop does resto type work then probably would. otherwise was going to suggest that you buy a set of 4 castors and make some brackets and bolt them to the front and rear chassis rails so the car is easy to move around. As i was thinking moving your bare shell for transport wont be very easy. https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/mopp-1203-quick-tech-body-casters https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/215086-please-share-your-body-dolly-designs/#comments some ideas for you. that way moving the shell around is easy for transport and the panel and paint shops and for you of course. Also feel free to PM me if you need any advise or help with something. or just ask around on the many topics on the forum and someone will help you.

woah wasn't expecting it to be stripped this far but good work! Im glad you had a great experience getting the sound deadening off as i did it just with a sharp chisel. mine was time consuming and sucked. also definitely try and clean the car prior to blasting some good degreaser and a water blaster would be the go. also providing the car doesn't have any rust in major structural areas. and wont need any metal work in those areas before the car gets sent for blasting spray all in the cavities of the shell with a product called brunox. you can buy it in a spray can or 1 litre container. which you can also thin out if need be. will prevent the vehicle rusting from inside out https://www.pacer.co.nz/product-group/1562-brunox-epoxy-rust-killer/category/301-brunox And buy a underseal gun to spray it through all the holes through the chassis rails sills and pillars like something like these. but you will need a hose with a nozzle to get all in there https://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/p/sca-sca-body-deadener-spray-gun/576116.html http://www.prolan.co.nz/product_details/d/1/c/57/p/80 i got one of these but somehow paid a whole less than just looking online and it came with the hose too as its normally and extra item. but this may have been an error from the panel supplies i got it from. because doing this after it being blasted is likely to glue all the sandblasting garnet in there. as it gets literally everywhere which could cause more rust if moisture gets in. then after the car has been painted spray some cavity wax in the same places prior to full reassembly. also what's your plan now for moving the shell now there is no drivetrain?

A good mechanical fan is a much better option over electric. Im not sure on difference for cooling between clutch and no clutch. but size of fan and blade angle and how many blades is the key. some of the plastic style fans work well. as to traffic many old cast v8's get hot while idling and that's where a good push style fan can help. And many go to electric for the look and that mechanical fan's can take up horsepower. but same deal with electric is fan design and having a shroud. a good cfm and quality fan isn't the cheapest option either. but other things like alternator output needs to be checked before fitting good fans. your mopar's probably only got a 60amp alternator as normal for the era. so if fitting a good electric fan setup that would need an upgrade also.

@MopedNZ Are all CVT / Twist And Gos and the 125cc limit have any exemptions? not expecting a scooter or bike that have all of the above to be allowed entry or anything like a old trutest type thing? as pretty much all of them are CVT

mopars of this era had two different size radiators. not sure if its between a big block and small block v8 or a 6cyl and v8 car. but should have a 3 core rad if its a big block. A common mod is to trim the front radiator panel to fit the bigger mopar radiator which your car may need. if you decide you need a replacement radiator a good quality ali radiator can be bought from http://www.aussiedesertcooler.com.au/index.html they build good ones but price does also reflect that. they also can put the Chrysler emblem on the top tank too. work has used them on plenty of cars when the budget allows also good to see the progress

After removing sound deadening in a 80s Toyota myself during the lockdown i didn't find any rust but did found some under the seam sealer as such but its a shit and painful task. i just did it with a sharp chisel and tapped away. tried with heat gun and its easier to get off but leaves much more residue and the fumes really get to your head. was going to do dry ice but now BOC gases have a minimum order of 10kg and require it to be ordered before 12pm the day before for a saturday pickup. and wanted 100 or so dollars. but that's BOC gases for you i then cleaned all the small bits remaining off with chisel and used a brush and rags with petrol and works well.

is the plan to swap over the running gear and bits to the gold one now? i somewhat think the gold one looks more honest and isn't hiding much. always had a soft spot for these especially with the factory livery sweet ute for a 1kz conversion

yeah cap has no sides. that could be a go. i wonder if hunting and fishing have them go and test them haha

yeah. sounds like it would of stood out like a sore thumb that way?

cheers I did think of doing that also. did you use stainless safety tie wire and tie the ends together on the inside?