piazzanoob

Burgers this Wednesday guys who is interested? @sentra @locost_bryan @sheepers @rich1179 @Shakotom @ul9601 @Styles @cletus @Tumeke @Snoozin @V8Pete @tortron @Kiwibirdman @punkoutnz @SOHC @michaelme @Avenga @MIRAGE-MAN @Thousand Dollar Supercar @Ghostchips @Ghost @Hurmeez @Snorkpipe @xsspeed @The Bronze @The Dude @ae85 fiend @63Ragtop @MichaelJFox @rusty360 @Matteybean @66gt @Mr Vapour @Corbie @SOHC @sluggy @Sambo @Not-a-number @Taistorm @zep @f100_dreamin @Ashkellybarr @sleeektoy @rivalrx @dabuzz @mk2marty @shizzl @beachlander @mlracing.co.nz @Sourkraut89 @slacker.cam @chris r @Three

have fitted the fitech and holley sniper on v8 cars at work with great success. make good power and run much better. but you have to ask yourself weather its worth the cost to you or not. as you need fuel pump/lines and fittings/oxygen sensor fitted/wiring. so ends up being more than you think. if the car isnt used much a well tuned carb on a NA v8 is fine.

efi hardware in Australia have the bits you are wanting. not cheap by any means but good quality https://www.efihardware.com/ then run a link computer and individual coils and a crank trigger

@zep Ive got a bare 4ze1 cylinder head if you want it for dummy up purposes. is cracked but is also clean. has no cam or valves or springs just caps. its free it you want it as is in the scrap bin. its from a 2.6 isuzu trooper

machining the end down on the valves is normal when getting even valve heights. but i would suspect 5mm longer would be too much. but depends on where the keepers sit. i take it you also have adjustment on each rocker? if you cant find something close you could put bigger guides and run a thicker stem valve but with the same 45mm valve. also running different valves can lead into other issues like correct degree keepers and stuff or needing different retainers. do you require stock valves for your engine? also what engine may help. also kelfords in chch may have

just something you might want to fix with your new sump. the new sump doesn't have a notch for your dipstick so the stick wont go in. a easy fix is some heat and bend a area in the sump for it to clear past your old sump does if you check the photo. otherwise good progress

there's a reason i hate that shit haha fun times eh

Yeah that VHT stuff is much more of a greener and lighter blue. than the actual Chrysler blue. not that it really matters though but good progress anyway!

I will be attending tonight and will be parking downstairs due to the weather. looking forward to some quality Sharns!

I would be very careful with where you get them from and the quality that they are. seen repro panels from the states that are rubbish. had same deal with my galaxie boot floor. also some of the repro stuff the body lines are not in the right place. also not all of the classic industries stuff is good quality can R3 fix or make you new quarters? otherwise earls body shop in wellington makes panels.

Ah man! the wallet is going to hurt on this build. too late to turn back now too. what new panels do you require?

i would check it has 12v while it is running. also what is the condition of the plugs and leads. some aftermarket hei dizzy's are too good rotor phasing isn't right and not reliable. i personally would be fitting a pertronix kit if your old points distributor is in good condition otherwise MSD or ICE ignition systems are good but spendy

All v8s or modern turbo stuff in nz should be running 95 to 98 octane. it is likely it will run shit with 91 octane in it. or ping or detonate which can cause damage to the engine and end up having to get it rebuilt. also the american scale is not the same as nz's ron scale they use the mon scale so their 93 is close to our 98 octane also a fuel stabilizer additive isn't a bad idea if the vehicle does not get used or started very often as fuel can go off as little as 6 months. have heard good results from the lucas stuff. not used myself though