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Everything posted by piazzanoob

  1. come here and talk shit about my yank tank
  2. chrisr hz tonner discussion

    TBH your logo needs to be airbrushed or hand painted onto the doors. would look lush
  3. piazzanoob's 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 seeeedaaan

    this chipping away at this ol girl cut out this rusty piece of steel in the R/h front floor pan which had been bogged over. this piece has most likely rusted out due to a leaking heater. \ Used this piece of 1.5mm of zintech panelsteel. spend some time panel bashing it with a wooden panel hammer and sandbag and a steel hammer then tack'd it in with some more hitting with the hammer. Then faced my torch underneath to check for any holes welded the remaining holes up a few times and now shes air tight. just like AL's mum puhuhuhu will leave the welding on this patch as is for the moment untill she gets the all clear from the repair certifier along with no paint or rust stuff. also my aliexpress gauges turned up too pretty happy with the quality of them.
  4. So with my trip to the USA in late 2016 me and a few others met up with their buddy scott. so after talking for abit and spending some time with him and inspecting a car i liked which had too much bog for my liking we both decided i would leave him some cash and when i found a car i liked that met my budget i would get him too inspect it. then many months went by searching craigslist couple times a week with no luck. then a mid 60s Chrysler newport popped up in my price range so had it inspected but ended up needing a full interior and had missing parts all over so that was a no GO few weeks later a 64 galaxie comes up slightly out of my price range but there was nothing else that i liked worth inspecting at that time. so a deal was done to purchase it. sent scott some extra coin to get some parts that it needed also along with getting some cherry bomb mufflers. about a month and half later it started its trip back home starting from phoenix AZ to LA about 4 months later it arrived into nz and being cleared by maf and customs Ready for collection As i go over to collect it from its secure yard the person informs me the paperwork says its a non runner what!? soo it has a flat battery well after swaping a charged battery into it it fires into life meanwhile while i move my car out of their yard and the shipping company (Non reflective) employee moves the galaxie out of the storage lot he starts to crunch a few gears then almost hits the wall a few times trying to park it. By then i was ready to throw him out of the car. then he asks the question on how im going to take it away? well im driving it mate And too much surprise he replies in shock it has no brakeees. oh yeah algood mate guessing he just has no clue about cars. so i hop in and brake pedal goes straight to the floor this is going to be interesting so i crawl up the road a few kilometers by changing from neutral to drive and trying to use the useless handbrake when needed soo a right turn comes up that i need to take ah not going to make that stop so i keep rolling in the median strip to the next street on my right. the next T intersection i roll through slowly followed by another right turn I have now arrived at my old mans workplace to check the brakes out so i can drive it home So i top up the empty brake reservoir and bleed the front brakes and we are good to go! so i cruised on home
  5. Cletus' '68 Plymouth post car

    keen to see the outcome of the vinegar de rusting bolts
  6. Tumeke's Wolseley 6/110 discussion

    Also 1+ on the powerfiles awesome for rust repair work ended up getting the black and decker one as have found some of the newer ozito stuff is a bit hit and miss but don't forget to stock up on the belts as they don't last long too. also liking the quick progress
  7. Tumeke's Wolseley 6/110 discussion

    this^ i found not setting the speed so high helped with them not breaking. or might of been the change in brand...
  8. piazzanoob's 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 seeeedaaan

    so one of the jobs for compliance was to do the L/R wheel bearing. so out came the driveshaft also popped the diff head out for inspection and out came the axles without too much trouble. so seen as this car has no drain bung for the diff fluid i popped the diff head of its seal and let it all leak out well you would of thought so... then with diff head out... the diff fluid had turned into some hard tar shit. the fluid had not been changed in a looooong time. half of the stuff that came out was a solid. also the diff head and axles were also covered in this crap. so took the diff head and axles into work and gave them both a good cleanup in the parts washer. along with fitting two new wheel bearings as may as well do both while i am in there. also made up some new paper gaskets for the axle flange. and got the diff head as clean as i could. must of spent about 3 hours cleaning all the hard tar shit that is the breakdown of the gear oil that was sitting in the axle tubes and diff head area. then refitted it all and refilled the diff up with some 75w 90 gear oil but will change it again after a few miles just to keep everything in there happy.
  9. The Bronze's XB Falcon

    Ive had to do this a couple of times now with customers who wont pay for a wheel alignment after we have replaced steering or suspension components. get yourself out a measuring tape and put one end of the tape in the middle grove of the tyre and run it across to the other front tyre into the same middle grove. so lets say the measurement is 2.300mm for example so now that you have measured the front face on the front tyres now measure from the back face of the front tyres in the same middle tread grove as previously. and lets say the back measurement is 2.400mm so the vehicle has 100,mm of toe out. so set the steering wheel straight. also do this while the car is resting on the ground. not jacked up. and adjust the tie rods until the measurement is the same on both faces or close enough. doing this should get it quite close and fairly straight. but wont be that accurate if your caster and camber is also upto shit. this pic gives you a better idea best of luck!
  10. piazzanoob's 1964 ford Galaxie 500 seeedaan

    The lower anchorages I believe are not factory. I fitted them as car came with none. the seatbelts come out of the bronze's 63 galaxie but his had the factory mounting points. but mine already had some holes there so I just used those holes and bought the correct plates and bolts to suit it.
  11. piazzanoob's 1964 ford Galaxie 500 seeedaan

    Thanks so being a pillarless there is no other place to fit a diagonal belt so it will need to keep its lap belt. Doesn't help that I've removed the carpet too so can this be done by having a cert plate on the car or a just a document to say so? Cheers
  12. piazzanoob's 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 seeeedaaan

    2 steps forward one step back. as some of you know already from spam this old girl broke down on me last monday on the mangere bridge which is a motorway and this old bus stopped in the bus lane. had been over at work aligning the headlights and getting some other bits done and was going send it back for its recheck. but ended up getting frustrated at the car and calling it quits and taking it back home to sit in the corner. and running the headlamps caused the battery to go flat so i jump started it and off i went. only got 5 mins walking distance till she died. so got my AA cover to come pick me and the car up and drop it at home. was lucky enough that none of the 3 cops that went past didn't stop as the towie said it would of been impounded as no wof or rego and 400 bucks in fines. got her home and charged the battery up and she fired up without an issue as i knew it would. but the carb on it is some no name 50$ napa auto parts POS. have had it off to seal a leak it had and have given it a good clean out but trying to tune it with this carb doesn't get me anywhere and still has a flat spot. so when some money is available that doesn't need to be used for compliance shit a new carb is going on it. was thinking an edelbrock 650cfm 2 barrel with electronic choke. was told edelbrock's are much easier to tune than holley's which i would believe. trunk floor that needs replacing has a few holes in it that could be reapired but the metal is pitted and its easy to just get another piece made. and this is the R/H front floor piece that needs replacing fairly simple shape so will start making it and weld it in. cheers mayte
  13. chrisr's g20 van

    fucking sweet news! let me know if you need the shit dropped back too
  14. piazzanoob's 1964 ford Galaxie 500 seeedaan

    yeah pretty much the first guy that inspected it said it must have a 3 point safety belt. like what! its pillar less you cant bolt it to the roof. now they want a Lvv cert for the mounting points even when its got the certified seatbelt plates and bolts. like it wasn't even a factory option for front seatbelts it was an extra like who cared about that in 64. will just chuck in a high stop to keep them happy. then take it out when it has the sticker on the window sick of trying to argue with people who dont know the rules to start with.
  15. piazzanoob's 1964 ford Galaxie 500 seeedaan

    yeah defs i quite dig the colour myself. just needs a good cut and polish and remove the pealing clearcoat and it should come up sweet.
  16. piazzanoob's 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 seeeedaaan

    so as some of you already know the old girl went through her compliance. so the morning i dropped her in for compliance the guy there found an issue within a minute the shipping agent in the USA made the bill of sale but they didn't spell my last name correctly but to make it worse they wrote it twice on the papers but with two different wrong spellings. duh! so i dropped the car off at my old mans work and went and saw a JP (justice of the peace) and got the paperwork sorted stating that they spelt it wrong etc. then the car went the next following week after nzta gave the okay on the paperwork. she went through and failed on a whole bunch of stuff lights/rear wheel bearings/power steering leaks/ headlight aim/seatbelt type/rear brake specs to be confirmed/weight of the vehicle/check engine numbers/brake imbalance. And some rust and a previous repair on the chassis to be redone. so at the moment most of the mechanical repairs have been done. so i popped her over toady for the recheck only to have another inspector check it and find more shit they want done. now they want a rego lamp lense/ a high stop fitted (doesn't by the virm need one) but you cant argue with them. and the seat belt mountings LVV certified. but ive also had the repair certifier come and inspect and document the repairs that need to be done so now i can start work on that. so it needs R/H floor pan repaired cut out and new patch welded in. Trunk floor pan cut out and replaced with new steel. and R/R chassis rail cut out tidied up check it is all square etc then welded back in. and clean up sills from previous jacking and leftover bog from repaint. so all of this will be done by myself and my old man. And i have till the 27th of feb for it to be done by. so now i need to find someone to make me a rear trunk pan. was going to use a person who made me a piece for the starlet but he went on holiday in November to ozzy and im unsure when he is back so will need to find someone else.
  17. piazzanoob's 1964 ford Galaxie 500 seeedaan

    Sorry wasn't sure what you were talking about. yes they are Toyota Tundra's they look like the earlier model to the current ones
  18. piazzanoob's 1964 ford Galaxie 500 seeedaan

    I suspect the carb is playing up. it did it once before when leaving the road. Just cranking it just flattened the battery. And eventually it would go. it has some no name carb on it that I cannot get to run mint. most likely just a 50$ napa auto parts piece of shit. when funds allow I will be putting a new manifold and carb which will set me back around 1500$ but I will be going through the wiring again to make sure it's all working properly.
  19. piazzanoob's 1964 ford Galaxie 500 seeedaan

    No this one is a mahindra india special
  20. piazzanoob's 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 seeeedaaan

    been abit slack with updates on this thing. just been super busy trying to get it ready for compliance. had to sort the play in the idler arm. so i removed it and cleaned up all the bearings and parts then refitted it and regreased it. now have minimal play in the steering. i also replaced the front wheel bearings as i found one was ruff. so i ordered them from rockauto as they were super cheap. also cleaned and refitted with new grease after doing this for the second time as i did this when i did the front brakes but didn't realize one bearing was no good. also had to put another new wheel stud in as i had hit one out when doing the wheel bearings and when i put in back in the spline had stripped. this was a much easier way than using a jack and axle stands.
  21. piazzanoob's 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 seeeedaaan

    Also put some shocks in the front too As it had none nice bouncy ride it was. these were a bargain at only 15 USD each but they required some modifying to fit on the bottom. cut that bit out and fitted them with a flat washer and spring washer on the bottom. another job done.
  22. piazzanoob's 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 seeeedaaan

    So this old girl still had its old points ignition system so out came the old distributor to get a pertronix kit to suit. went to my local v8 parts shop being STA parts. walked out with a brand new electronic dizzy for 135incl gst and this was still cheaper than the pertronix kits i had seen advertised online. but the only problem being with this new electronic dizzy is it is much bigger than the old one. so i had to get my map torch and heat the coolant expansion tank then give it a massage with a panel hammer to clear adjustment for timing the distributor. Also these distributors only have a one wire hookup being a 12v supply with a coil built inside the cap which is why the cap is soo big And one terminal to hookup if you are running a tachometer. which i will put one in one day. also another different thing with these distributors is the cap style lead terminals. so i bought the right terminals and boots And a crimp tool. cut old lead end off cut some of the insulation off the lead by placing a knife and spinning the lead. then before you do this^^ place the boot on! makes it quite hard to put on once the terminal is on. so for fitting the terminal you need to flip the wire underneath so it is resting on the metal terminal. then place the terminal and crimp tool like the photo above and close them together using a vice. and this is the end result. this is a lengthy process but saves max $$ this way. and at the end of it test all of your leads using an ohm meter to make sure they are all within range. Also another thing with that bigger distributor was the air filter was no longer able to fit due to it being a low mount base type filter. so out again to STA parts to sort this. unfortunately they were out of stock of the high mount base, so a complete new air filter base was purchased. still is quite close to the leads and cap but i did not like the look of the smaller diameter filters so same size but high base mount type. but looks much better than old setup i think. just need to polish the rocker covers to help with a cleaner look.
  23. Swannie’s KP60

    fairly tidy car for the kms good luck with the build. where are you getting your parts from?
  24. piazzanoob's 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 seeeedaaan

    So the parts for the brakes ended up taking just over a week to get sorted. ended up getting the brake hoses and spring kit from http://www.northwesternford.co.nz/ who just deals in old ford stuff. pricing also seems to be reasonable rate. which is a bonus And the wheel cylinders and shoes got sourced from sterling clutch and brake. also the car came with two new brake drums so they ended up on the front while the best two of the old four went onto the rear. although they are all way worn out past there service limit. also removed all the brake assemblies off all the wheels and gave all the brake parts and backing plates a good scrub down. then fitted the front with new shoes and wheel cylinders and a couple of new springs. also put on the new front brake hoses and pumped through some of the old brake fluid through to the back. man that brake fluid was dirty. then put on the new rear brake hose and gave the brake system a bleed And ended up having to teach my mum the brake bleeding procedure which slowed the process down abit. then took the car off the stands to give the brakes a good bed in. Drive went okay apart from a grinding noise under braking on the R/F. So up on stands again with the wheels off to diagnose that. And some smart person in america decided they would put the wrong size brake adjuster on the car which let it to grind a mark in my new drums. This is the L/h one which was the one i needed. And this one was one that i had ordered from http://www.northwesternford.co.nz/ but is the same size as the one on the R/F thats grinding on the drum. so that one will be going back to them as it will not work. so i stopped into sterling clutch and brake to find an adjuster and walked out with a free one in my back pocket. cheers mayte otherwise the plan was to run the big one on the lathe at work down to the right size then grind some notches so the adjuster retainer will hold it. so now the brakes do not make any noises it shouldn't. And now stops the old slug after you get a dead leg.
  25. piazzanoob's 1964 ford Galaxie 500 seeedaan

    should hopefully have it all legal by the end of the year all going to plan