peteretep

It will be max about 40W, but mostly I need to convert it from 14V regulated AC to DC

I just need a H8 plug from zebra and I will try solder everything together tomorrow, then it can be plug in to the existing stuff

I've got these components so I'll try this for now, can try that method after if it doesnt work

ok its gone

yeah should be able to. it does the same thing as I am trying to do?

Becuase I don’t know any better and am just following this YouTube video

somewhat related to this thread, I have 3 electrical components I need to solder together and fit into my motorbike. The area they are going is not guaranteed to be water proof and there will be lots of vibration. What are some tips for keeping everything alive and working? silicone over bear metal connections, or heatshrink? can I silicone the bridge rectifier to the capacitor? I think everything is oversized and wont spend its whole life at peak temperature. There isnt enough room to put them in a watertight box

I'm sure it will, I fussed around for ages before cutting the threaded rod, and it worked out fine. And make sure you get some flash hose from brake reservoirs to master cylinders, I bought some stuff that was supposed to be good, and it was bleeding brake fluid within a few days, had to get some really hard stuff, and now 3 years later that also slowly bleeds/sweats brake fluid

Hey, I have made a bias pedal box too, but not yet certed it. I understand, but could be wrong, that you need a rubber/grippy surface for the brake pedal due to possibility of slipping. I know race cars dont need this/typically dont have it, I also dont currently have a grippy surface, but have definitely slipped a couple times. Might just be worth something considering rad looking setup though!

ok next one, M10x1 male into a 1/8bspt hole. jam it in or tap it first? Got 2 temp sensors to fit into a 1/bspt thread, so was thinking of using a 1/8 nipple, then a 1/8 Tee to fit one sensor, then fit the other m10x1 into the other port

ah really, that makes more sense then. I will have to do without gauges on both I think, its not that vital

Hey guys I have 2 fuel gauges running off a single sensor, and one fuel is showing empty(I think I can fix this with a resistor?), while the other starts full and quickly shows my tank draining, is there an easy fix if I wanted both to work? Diode or something a rather? Maybe a resistor? and where does someone buy a resistor or diode from these days?

Fuck man, I saw a pic of that meremere dude and he looked like he was having the time of his life. Motorbikes are cash as, as is. The way that dude went out. If I went out at 270kph I wouldn’t be disappointed. Live life like each day like it could be your last, and have a good time

Oh man that would be fully cheating, but also awesome. Its about the same size as a typical 50cc scooter as far as I can tell. If you want to pick it up, then you can figure out if you can fit it in, if yes then great, if no then we can sort out another way to get it to auckland

Z fuel station, Taranaki street, te aro is the pickup spot if that makes a difference