peteretep

what kind of engine/car are we talking about here?

need to go via kawakawa bay too

Those LED bulbs are great, but they are illegal for wofs because they smash light out everywhere, so need to swap them out at wof time. Full LED lenses look cool though, just need to get ones with DOT markings on them I think

how is the sensor arranged with the magnetic float? I can only imagine a toothed wheel going past the sensor

how do you carefully light it up? I've tried doing it before, but was way too scared to chuck heaps of petrol on it, so didn't get super good results

check thermostat is working too, I had one fail and car started getting real hot, didn't get to the point over water overflowing though

If I were to only have one, it would be Mig, then tig. Mig is just a good all round solution, its not the best for everything, but easy enough to become reasonable at it, and it can weld 90% of stuff. I have a 180a mig, and while i have used it at max settings for welding 5mm to 5mm plate, I mostly use it in the middle/lower settings

First one looks like what you want. Second one looks to be slightly more specialized as a higher use mig, although has smaller max wire size. Unless you are doing lots of continuous welding, you dont need to worry about that duty cycle, and if it is a problem, just wait 5 minutes before continuing welding/blow on it Bit of a pain they dont seem to have specs to properly compare models, although I suspect they have done that on purpose And you don't want to go near flux cored welding, its the devils poos. And some manufacturers have something called 'live wire technology' or something similar, which means that when used as a mig, the wire is always live, which you super dont want Best deal you will be able to find will be something second hand. And factor in the price of a decent helmet, gloves and a bottle

I used a program ages ago, but it didn’t really have the correct symbols and wouldn’t let me make new features, so I drew what I wanted in draftsight, which is a program that can draw lines or whatever symbols you want In the end I ditched the whole thing and had a single sheet of paper which described what each fuse was used for, this was when I rewired my car

How else will I know how thick the metal is in a steering wheel? Or what diameter the shaft is on an alternator, I dont care that it made the alternator unusable. They'll just replace the car with another soon enough car wreckers in onehunga seem to catch fire once a year piercing fuel tanks

I think the rules are in the nz car constructors manual, from very vague memory, the pedal needed a ratio of 3:1 with a booster, or 6:1 without a booster. Get the manual and have a look though. I removed the booster on my escort and fitted a landrover master cylinder which had a different piston size with a slightly modified pedal initially, and it juuust past cert. The brakes were OK but not amazing. Now I have made a bias pedal box and the brakes are legit

I would say that for my stuff, I am going for lowest price point, which is also where most of OS is aiming. If you want to pay the cost then you can be the boss As an example, we had these water cut, then dimples machined, folded, then bead blasted. The main support for the stairs is one peice 50mm stainless and the steps are 20mm stainless. The finish was immaculate, but supplied to us was about $40k

Speed and nozzle size (it should be selected based on the job, and not just used as a one size fits all) I think, its where lots of skill comes into cutting plate. TBH I have stopped getting things watercut in general for work because of the finishing work required to get the parts to an acceptable finish. As an example, a 10mm ali plate that I was getting watercut cost me $50, but the finish was not that great and took someone an hour to fiddle with to get it looking good. I now get that part machined for $150 and it can be welded as soon as it arrives to the workshop and all dimensions are perfect. For something like this, your time is free so you can save $100

Was the $11 one Bluetooth or wired?

Speaking of OBD2 scanners, is there any difference between them? I bought 3 bluetooth ones with varying results, they often seemed to drop connection but occasionally they would lock on. These were all cheap ones, maybe $10-$25 each. Maybe it was the apps I was using to connect, or maybe some android issue? My P10 primera had a port, but I think it wasn't actually OBD2, it just had the same plug