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About pbaines

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  • Birthday 12/09/94

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  1. Ahh. So i made a bit of a large cock up. The cams were far too big for the original pistons, the valve reliefs were to small and when I was dialing in the cams the lobe was hitting the piston by a long shot. Instead of crying about it, I ordered some 82mm (2mm oversized) 12.5:1 compression pistons from Barry at MRP. Took my spare 7-rib block in to the machinists and got that block bored, cleaned and decked also. All is not lost with the other block, I will be using that in my AE86. I put some new frost plugs in the new block and gave it a blase of semi-gloss paint Whipped the head off of the old block Removed everything as it was instead of dismantling it (take pulley -> timing sprocket -> oil pump off, all to put it back on again) Went over to the NEW block, gapped the rings and dumped the goods in. Much better I set about to degree the cams, this time. No fowling on anything! Reconned alternator which is an 80A one It's nice to work on an engine and still have clean hands at the end of it. new bits e'ry where. So that's that for now, I will be installing the clutch and then putting it into the car next. Excited So, lesson. Do more research before completing an engine rebuild so you don't have to take all apart again. Talky talky. //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/52401-pbaines-1971-toyota-corolla-ke25/#comment-1679349
  2. Today I received my new shims, installed them and also the cams. Pretty self explanatory. I a have still got to dial in the cams which I will do sometime next weekend whilst I wait for my Dial gauge to arrive. Nearly complete, I have also ordered a brand new alternator and a starter motor also for a good price. still have to order a knock sensor and get the water pump -> back of head lines fabricated with a braided line. Have to do this due to the original piping interferes with the knock sensor, and I am also not running a water based heater so I will not be using those that are included on the original hard lines either. I have also ordered the SQEngineering COP valley cover plate to suit the 2nz coils that I will be using which I should receive sometime this week.
  3. I agree. Once I have had everything put in, all the engineering work done to it, the electrical work and the run in etc, then when I take everything back out for the panel and paint I will go through with a fine pick comb to pretty everything up as much as possible.
  4. Today was a good day! I got my head back from Barry at MRP. Here are some photos he sent me of the head. No need to take my own. The head had to have some extra work done on it so that the 10mm+ lift cams were able to rotate without hitting anything. With receiving my head I also received the last few gaskets and bolts that I was after. Especially for the intake side of things so I could get these beauties bollted together. I installed the front input shaft seal, the output shaft seal, and also the spacer ring between the box and the input shaft that I forgot to install first time round. Nice new slave cylinder I am using OEM head studs so I have used the Toyota torque specs, so need to do the +90 +90. I just did it by eye with my last engine, decided to do it properly this time round. [ Fastforward an hour of fiddling around I got everything bolted together. I am still waiting on some new shims to arrive from Australia so I will have to wait a little bit before I can install the cams etc. [ With that, not long to go before i drop it down the guts into the KE25 and can finally start on another task. I am thinking diff shortening next. Hopefully less expensive than this engine! Discussion //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/52401-pbaines-1971-toyota-corolla-ke25/
  5. Looking forward to seeing more progress!
  6. Well, today the engine came out. I decided to check, if in fact I did have the original motor in the car. Yuss. Turns out I do! Fantastic. Very happy to be giving this KE a full makeover and put the original heart back into it. Just so I remember how all of this went. The rest of the bay is pretty self explanatory Also showcasing that, I really should have checked if the gearbox had oil in it. Turns out it did, and my efforts of adding an ice cream container 80% through the drainage process didn't really achieve much. #It'sTheThoughtThatCounts. And behold, the bare nude bay. Considering if I should get this entire shell bead blasted or something, just to get rid of all the rusty holes once and for all I will be going in tomorrow to get some stripper and strip they bay, and also some dry ice so I can get rid of the sound deadening.
  7. So today I got the spot weld drill bit and attacked the front cowl with it, after a bit of persuading with a coal chisel for the front and the side, and a pry bar to undo any of the spot welds on the inside of the car it all popped off pretty easy! I think it took about 2 hours to get this off. Some of the spot welds were hard to see externally so I had to pry up the edging with the coal chisel to see between the steel and figure where the spot would be. I will have to get this cleaned up also. Possibly even undo all of the spots for this as well. Will get this sand blasted I think As you can see, leaves etc have blocked up the drain holes so water has just sat in there and rusted it all up. I will have to cut this entire patch out, hoping to get a rust cut for this from OCA so will have to see how that goes. In fact I am probably going to be needing many rust cuts, however the problem is that all these KE30's suffer the exact same problems so finding good cuts may prove difficult!! Next I ripped the entire dash out, simple job. Next I will get some dry ice and get all of the sound deadening out and start on taking the paint off the doors. I will use paint stripper for this, just to see how I get on with that as strip discs aren't cheap when you are using one a day!! Hello daylight!! I did some more stripping of this side. I paint strip the rest Next time: Sound deadening removal Engine removal Door stripping Interior stripping Enginebay stripping European babes stripping (my girlfriend said this wasn't allowed ) Discussion: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/56136-pbaines-1977-toyota-corolla-ke30/
  8. it's surprising how much work can be done when no one is around and there aren't any distractions!
  9. Ah, the culprit to all of the roof woes!! I wondered what the knife marks were around the fuel cap, the roof use to have one of those vinyl covers on top of it. I haven't ever seen one of those come out good after 30 years. they all have a mountain of orange metal under them. I was about to start the front cowl but underneath it was a rusty river so it all has to come off. I drilled these welds out with a drill but have gone and bought a spot drill bit online as I guess it is good to do things properly! I shall resume with the cowl removal on Friday. As you can see, good I removed these. rusty as, and would hate to think how much is under other panels like this. I finished off some more of the body, overall quite happy with the rear end, a couple of dents but all very easy fixes and over it's very straight so that's a bonus. Duscussion: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/56136-pbaines-1977-toyota-corolla-ke30/
  10. I am not hacking it up at all in any stretch of imagination! There was a fella down in Dunedin who bought a KE30 project and he has bought all of this tan interior. I wouldn't hack up an old school mint interior, would only replace with original parts. Which is what I am doing
  11. Yucky, the black will be much nicer!!! Either New, Second hand or NOS. Depends what comes up really. And no, not eBay. either FaceBoobs or just whatever my agent finds. there's a big old school community over there I have an agent over there, I find parts online, he finds them around the country and then we ship them over here. If you need anything for your 25, let me know. Would be happy to help if I can
  12. So I have the week off and the parents went off to Brisbane for the week, what are the chances... I've pinched their shed for the week so I can ho into this KE30 and get it all stripped down and see how far on I can get with it. I went to Mitre10 and bought a wire wheel for the grinder as well as a stripping disc to get me underway. I should probably have just paint stripped it, but I still would have had to use the strip disc to get the remainders off, and this is the original paint so is super thin so will come off in no time. So i bought the car in, chucked it on stands and took the exterior panels off Got the wire brush attachment out and cleaned this up in no time at all Probably the worse section of rust on the entire car. I gave it another once over Did the other side Got the stripper disc out and made quick work of the roof. surprising how bad the back aches doing this for a long period of time. Looks like I will have to have a skim of filler on the roof to fill in the pits from the rust So. This is the rust I have to contend with on the car, for a KE30. This is nothing! Front left underside. Right roof section Rear windscreen i was attacking the outside of the rear left when I noticed something I wasn't expecting to be honest. Some boggy. Stripped it, looks like the only damage is along the ridge which is minuscule (just small pits) however the entire exposed section was bogged. strange. Another update tomorrow when I complete more! Discussion: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/56136-pbaines-1977-toyota-corolla-ke30/
  13. Build //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/56135-pbaines-1977-toyota-corolla-ke30/ Discussion of the KE.
  14. Uhh, well. two project, no worries. I bought this off trademe a few months back, original EVERYTHING which was super cool, even have the original registration card from 1977 from Toyota Otago. Was in a family for years and years and sold the guy I got it from who had it for a few years but didn't do much with it. Came with two new front guards (taiwan made) they fit up ok too which is a bonus. Plans. I will stick to them this time round! -Convert to OG black interior, not a fan of the tan personally. -Rebuild current 3K motor that's in it, or fire it up and see how it goes -Do panel and paint myself. Learn along the way. Shell is super straight, few rusty spots as all these KE30's do but that's ok. -Fit super cool accessories like Monsoons, and every piece of chrome available (Which will usually be from a Hi-Deluxe KE30) This picture is my inspiration, I am going to go with a similar deep blue also Anyway, here is the old bomb for now 20170220-2017-02-20 17.14.42 by phillipbaines, on Flickr A few weeks later, I had got some goodies over from Malaysia. Included, Monsoons, rear window quarter shades, door/outer window chrome edging, all the black interior panels, black U Channel moulds, 3-spoke steering wheel. Just need to buy some black carpet and wait for the dash to come over as well as the door cards Now it'll go sit back in its hole until I drag it out to take more tan yuckness out Discussion: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/56136-pbaines-1977-toyota-corolla-ke30/
  15. So I made up a parts bath using a big old plastic container and mixing 50/50 degreaser-water and letting parts go swim for a day or so then water blast them and tooth brush clean them. Today I did the bellhousing, the gearbox outer casings, tail shaft housing and rocker covers are soaking at the moment. After a clean, has come up pretty good! I then set onto installing the new clutch fork assembly. Using all new OEM parts gives the peace of mind that everything will be all nice and dandy. Strange, can't get the fork clips new from Japan but found them on https://partsouq.com/ so that was good. The ones I had spare were all rusty. Clean backside/booty. always nice. I dummy fitted the new bolts to make sure I had them all. Found that I was missing the starter motor bolts so those will be added next to the OEM order which is already 20 items long. Not the most interesting update... but the next one will be the head install Discussion: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/52401-pbaines-1971-toyota-corolla-ke25/&page=2