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Chassis end panhard mount. Yep the drag link goes through the middle of the bracket Ive given up on the whole offroad thing. going stance spec still got about 3" of droop and 2" up to go. need a forklift. likely have to go softer on the front springs, will see what happens once all the junk on the tray goes back in the engine bay

Paint a massive cock and balls on it please before you cover it up

A little progress... Met with @dave a while back and bought 2 more 13x7 Cragar's from him. Thanks man. Gave them a good clean, the rims came up pretty good but the centres are pretty corroded. The centres were painted silver, who ever painted them sanded the chrome so they're pretty dull. Overall condition isn't to bad. Still on the lookout for a cleaner pair... Stoked I have a set now though! Did a quick test fit. I was a little worried they'd be too wide and poke out but turns out they're sweet. Still need to get the proper tyres I want to run but gives you an idea... Discuss here, Cheers!

Aliexpress

After much contorting, sweating and swearing, the side glass and rubbers are all in on the coupe. I just need to fit the door cards and window felts and jobs a goodin. I tore my hood lining the other day….sooo I’m having to buy another $300-$350. I’m not entirely looking forward to fitting it… The engine front mount bracket has been ditched…..the engine was at 8 degrees which is way too much of an angle. This was due to the fact that I’m running a 13b turbo box (89-91 FC RX7) which is substantially taller in the main body than the series 1-3 box. This means it limits the angle as the top of the box contacts the tunnel roof. I’m now getting a custom front bracket that will lover the block 5cm ish which puts the drive train at an acceptable angle. The sump is sitting on a spacer 20mm off the cross member at the moment - now the clutch slave clears the tunnel. Now I need to get a drive shaft made to suit and then set the entire drive train up so that I’m happy with all the angles. THEN the front bracket can be made…THEN the custom quad throttle body intake manifold can then be made to suit the angle of the block. I got a drive shaft off a mate however it appears to be 20mm too short unfortunately - when you are talking about a high revving engine, you really want the drive shaft to be on point etc. Yes I have a loop to go in. I also tidied up and prepped the diff brake line and fitted a new hose I had hanging about the place 4 steps forward, 6 back….

I thought i was looking at my old VG when i first read this thread! I sold it to a guy down in gore before i moved to Melbourne in 2006 but you have had your one a lot longer obviously. Mine had a 360, it went pretty hard. Hopefully all that rust doesn't put you off too much, you should see the 68 impala im currently restoring...

@kyteler, @danger, @gettinroundtuit, @Lord Gruntfuttock, @Marsh, @matt7759, @Mazda Dave, @adamant

Micron rated filters for low pressure fuel delivery applications are available and very cheap. Like sub $20. https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_pumps_regulators_and_filters/filters/carbureted_filters/parts/9746 That's an example, but it's genuine Holley and chrome etc for wank spec. You can find them locally too for about the same price.

We'll dig as deep as need be. She's a dry carpet model. And despite being rusty now, ten years ago it was completely rust free. The cancer doesn't run that deep. I've met your mate. That business caters to cheque book builders. It's no more rusty than you'd expect for a car of this age that has spent 20 of the last 47 years out in the weather. ......

Much to talk about... First of all, #CleansheetVTNZ #Levelimposibleclocked Time to set my mind onto more interesting things, hooked up the wideband to the Niva and had a horrible surprise, all nice at idle and up to 50kmh, but then open up the secondaries and she's rich as, so rich no amount of tweaking and miniature jets could alter, I gave the single carb a full half day of messing about but in the end ditched it for the dellortos, even though these are rich, the results were far more consistent and changes to mixture followed changes I made. With the twins on it was time for some serious thinking, driving around with the wideband on the dash wasn't really the easiest thing to do so I sat down last night with a beer and bashed the keyboard to get python to read throttle position and mixture via arduino, all thats needed then is a tps on the carb, PAP wanted $40 but i'm too cheap for that kind of extravagance, headed down to jaycar and grabbed a $3 10k potentiometer and aluminium knob for $4, mix that with a bit of scrap ali sheet and boom, tps! (well not quite, still had to hack a slot for the shaft to engage in, man I wish I had a mill!) All that set up I dumped the laptop in the passengers seat and had a play Worked out far better than I imagined, managed to tune Idle much quicker than listening, by simply looking at the rev counter and O2 reading, awesome! Pre-drive calibrating of the tps found this wee fella: The 3 equal peaks are me pushing the throttle pedal, the larger peak is holding full throttle on the carbs, few free ponies if I sort the linkages better! With that in mind, I went for a drive and things got tricky... Blue line is O2, red tps, scale is kinda random, but ~500 = good for mixture, tps runs 180->1024 and ignore the green, thats there for when I get engine speed mixed in, but so far its floating along for fun. Oh and graph reads right to left. At cruise and idle mixture is about right, average acceleration (pulling away from lights etc) is lean as, while planting foot runs mega rich(after a brief lean out), my conclusion is the idle jets are a bit small, and needs a size or two up there, and the mains need to be dropped a similar amount with a little more on the pump jets to see about the lean as the pedal hits the floor. Fun times, but man I wish I could just go full EFI without having to cert the darn thing! Discussion about carb tuning tips please:

Moral of the story is don't leave your freshly paneled and painted old car on the lawn for a decade.

I would be significantly more likely to keep following your build if it was all posted here rather than having to follow external links all the time. Its a cool car and interesting but meh to external links

all gone. 2017-04-22_02-37-50 by sheepers, on Flickr

a JZ in it and limmy bashing on a 2-step before the end of the weekend

so the drain layers worked until 1am to get the new pipe installed. so i didn't get much sleep Wednesday night. but its done and dusted. there is still a pile of clay to be removed from the front yard and the digger is still here but thats minor stuff. after the drain was finished i did some more smash. tomorrow ill take down the last piece of wall (which will take all of about 10 minutes) and then clean up the mess. 2017-04-20_03-18-29 by sheepers, on Flickr 2017-04-21_05-28-54 by sheepers, on Flickr 2017-04-21_05-29-12 by sheepers, on Flickr 2017-04-21_05-28-34 by sheepers, on Flickr and thats where we are up to. im hoping the builders will start next week.

Turbo pipework all welded ready to go.

So ages ago I picked up a cheap shitty chinese quad bike with whole 50cc 2 smoke power house. Tbh it was fairly shagged but everything was there. Tyres where hard as rock and cracked, petrol tank was broken and everything generally bent or broken. I managed so start and run it for a minute while petrol pissed out of the tank and all over the motor so that was promising / dodgy. I told my boy (then 4) that he could pull it apart and we'll build a go kart one day. So in less than a day he had the motor out, wheels off and all axils, suspension, wiring and faring fully stripped. Many months later a mate offered me an old shopping trolley that was laying around his house, mentioned it to my boy and he liked the idea so got my ass into gear and pulled all the bits out of hiding for him to set up as he saw fit to build. The mock up.

Hey everyone havnt been doing much lately towards any of my projects but since ive gotten my ass into gear ive dug this my old gn250 out from the back of the shed. So i brought it about 3-4 yrs ago in order to get my bike lieces (which never happened) but instead, being me i decided change everything and pulled the bike to bits, with no knowhow to finish the job. Following that she was put under a tarp out back and parts were put away. But recently I took on the challenge of clearing enough space in my grandad's shed to bring it inside so i can work on it. Overcoming that ive been able to store / work on it indoors and have acquired some parts in hopes to finish what i started yrs ago! Goals this time is to turn it into so kind of bobber style bike but with little money,skill or experience..... so wish me luck! I didnt get any before photos from when i brought it but it was a completely stock 88 Suzuki gn250 and was absolutely mint! The fist photo is of it when i first got it inside, it still has the 1" drag bar i got when i first got the bike (which dont fit so had to go). And as youll see the state of the shelves in this shed youll realize what i was dealing with to get a work bench and enough floor space to get this inside...

Looks like it has had the bash. No good. Will chew the pads off in no time. Needs a grind/ take it back. Possibly bent/cracked too. She's rooted mate.

i don't think i can make it now either - taking the car for a wof saturday morning , i have a feeling it won't pass

plenty of seats for a chief executive beer holder mate! and yeah the route is state highway/main roads so good road surfaces all round. unless of course we deviate off the beaten path to explore

All of that stuff is up to fuck all really. Seen waaaaaay worse in cars that are still in operation.Bit of a shit if the dealer said they did the cambelt, but typical of an overseas vendor.

10 4 on that one rubber ducky sounds like a plan

As above mate. Feather out the repair and dust on some lacquer primer first, if it doesn't fry up you should be ok to blast it on.

Here's the parts quad before the strip down . It even turned over after years in the paddock rotting away . Have scored CV joints , all plastics , engine (300cc) , Speedo cable , wheels and tyres and various other bits .

Got one of the walls up... Would have done both if we hadn't screwed up and carpeted the wrong side of one of the panels.... I'm really happy with how this one came out though. Did some wiring of the roof lights... Lots of heat shrink and braided nylon sleeve... And some weather pack connectors. There are 6 circular lights which are a warm light, two bright strip lights over the bed wired to the house battery and a dome light wired to the Chevy wiring. If anyone buys Dream lights brand LEDs, be aware that white is ground and black is positive. Confusing. Don't mind the plastic on the circular lights, I'll peel that off one they are installed. Rear roof panel: Front panel:

https://www.nzta.govt.nz/vehicles/licensing-rego/number-plates/ http://legislation.govt.nz/act/public/1998/0110/latest/DLM3701906.html http://www.legislation.govt.nz/regulation/public/1995/0136/latest/DLM201140.html http://www.legislation.govt.nz/act/public/1998/0110/latest/DLM3705398.html#DLM3705398 Here is an email reply from the NZ Police regarding this matter. A bit out of date: Thank you for your email dated 21 September 2011. Registration plates with a black background and silver lettering were produced until November 1986, no further black and silver plates were manufactured after this date. A plate with a 3 letter 3 number combination (i.e. ABC123) would not have been manufactured on Black and Silver plates. Legislation states that only official registration plates may be used. Therefore the plates displayed on this vehicle will not be legal. My understanding is that it is not legal. The legislation doesn't account for people painting later plates to look like the early ones however due to the reflective background on modern plates, painting them (legal on older plates to 'restore' them)is modifying them from their original purpose. They will no longer work as intended (the 'distinguishing mark/marks' are no longer visible). I have seen a driver receive a ticket for using them, but he was a cunt. I've been pulled over with them and the cop didn't mention them. It hasn't really been targeted specifically.

What is the enamel on? If it's on an old car it should be baked enamel. What you do is lightly dust on a couple of coats to see if it 'reacts'. If it doesn't you're good to go, if it does you're f**ked and it needs to be sealed first.

Thanks for that. We need more pasta here.

Bike starts, runs, changes gear, and stops. Lights all seem to work, so I'm calling that 'about done' for now. Just need to get my license...

Wow. Toyota and their crazy chassis codes huh. was there single cam versions of the M series? I thought the likes of the 5m, and the 7m-bhg were dohc? Pretty sure that this crown was a sohc. I like learning bout stuff. I can repeat what I've heard at parties, and people think I'm tons smarter than I really is.

Noted. Will try copy pasta into posts. Hopefully the image links dont die.

So my yellow box showed up last week As I already had the required wires out and ready from the jaycar unit it only took about 10min to install. Just wires up inline with the 3 wires to the speed sensor. 2 buttons and 2 LEDs let you set it up and check it's working and the ratio used. Has a few useful modes like a test mode so you can use increasing frequencies to test if your speedo is linerally accurate, and has a top speed playback. Worked right away, feels nice in the hand, is totally sealed and I think trying to open it would wreck it, but it has a 10 year warranty and is made to be waterproof (tho I tucked mine in the shifter housing thing, and left the cable long so it's easy to adjust in the future) Also comes with a jumper to disconnect the yellow box and run the speedo as normal (I think for if you regularly swap to off-road tyres/track tyres or swap between mph and kph) Pretty impressed, great customer service so far, nicely made and good instructions, plus made in Aussie but don't let that put you off Price wise I think it's more than worth it for having something that actually works out of the box

Least you could do would be to mount that window on the wall somewhere conspicuous and then decorate around it leaving a window into what could've been..

mounts all on the diff for good. cant paint over the chrome..

Rustisize and mirageman in one car together!!! Unsure which picture fits better.

Lets be honest Done.

Sorry for not posting for a few days, making progress though. Little bracket to hold my sillcock (in the USA the trade term for a hose tap is a sillcock... Many inappropriate jokes were made) Bracket for the water pump. Flipped the awning brackets around and trimmed a bit off them to get it closer to the roof. It now sits even with the drip rail. Mounted some lights under the awning. There are two mounted to the roof rack feet. Had a trial of it. Made a bracket to hold my propane tank to the pillar behind the door. Rebecca also carpeted that pillar and the wheel wells. Looks a ton better. Mounted the switches and outlets to the panel that will sit behind the seats. From left to right: switch for inverter, AC power outlet, DC cig lighter and USB plugs, 8 switch and breaker panel, face plate for voltmeter, and in the far right water tank fill door. The power meter is an $18 Amazon job, it has good reviews but the mounting is a bit annoying, two little tabs designed to mount to sheet metal, so I had to make this plate. The switch is a dpdt to switch between measuring charging and discharging current. Did a job I had been putting off for days... Drilling holes in the roof for the solar cables. There is supposed to be a third for the lights but I lost the nut and washer to the third gland so I need to order another. Painted the edges of the holes after drilling then siliconed them in. The battery cables are ran through the floor with similar glands.

So this happened: Long story short, I took it for a WOF, and it failed on excessive steering play, which turned out to be a worn bush (which is better than a fucked rack or tierod end, I suppose). While it was in the workshop we noticed a weird squealing/chuffing noise from one of the belts, so I got Karl to inspect further. What he found next will shock you! Nah not really. But he did discover that the cambelt was really old and perished, and chunks were flaking off it - and the waterpump seals have started weeping - even though it had been changed at 90,000km (less than 20,000km ago). We're guessing that it was done maybe 10 years ago and the car simply hasn't been driven a lot in Japan, then I got hold of it and drove to Nats 2016 and around the country like a lunatic. Ha! So with that in mind, out the hole it goes for another new cambelt, tensioner, seals, waterpump, belts, blah blah blah. I'm slightly disappointed that I haven't even had a chance to stockpile more upgrade parts yet, because I was so confident that it wouldn't need any serious work done for another 50-60,000km and I had ages to collect more shit for it. At least I will now be able to fit the shiny extractors I bought a while back, but it would have been nice to throw in an upgraded supercharger pulley, LSD box, and rear swaybar at the same time. Discuss: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/49412-80s-kid-part-ii-eds-aw11-sc-chit-chat/

so. I thought we should do a weekend meet since we haven't done one in forever..... next meet Sunday the 30th

Some parts arrived from America on Thursday. Floor patch panels, a few small bits and also 2 13x7 reverse 4 spoke Cragar's. I wasn't sure how good the rims would be but turns out they're nice! With these rims I can test fit them all round. I'm certain they'll fit on the back with the IRS but the front I'm not sure about. I'll sort that this weekend then know what I'll need to complete the set. Happy as! Discuss here, Cheers!

In my head it's an awesome video with multiple camera angles including front and rear mounted go pros, tyres squeal over a 2 stroke soundtrack and a getaway through the carpark, round a corner and up ramps into the back of a van. Reality would be a horrendous crash in the isle of value damaging product, customers and myself. Kart impounded and me in court on multiple charges including grievous bodily harm. And the kids still waiting for their turn.

How it looks almost ready to rumble / ring-a-ding. That little red bit by the tank is the kill switch. Just need to extend the wires to mount it on the handle bar and fix the earth.

Not the big 6 pots that were intended but at least it's got the 355mm rotors on it now. Took about an hour all up / pretty lazy upgrade. Edit: wow talk about shit photo's.

I'm moving to Queenstown in a few weeks! Looking forward to meeting some South Island OS crew.

1 month in of driving. The gearbox is making bad noises, the carb is not working properly but running in a reasonable AFR range so its ok, all the door and heater vent seals leak and it fills up water, IT IS SLOOOOOOOOOOOOW. 45kw makes it no rocket ship. Time to change that. Watch This Space...

the resurrection of the chassis has begun. this is the cross tube the the upper control arm mounts to. its plated over the joint. the shape allows for more surface area of weld and also to spread the stress of the joint rather than having a stress concentration at the edge of a square plate. sheepers.