Carsnz123

I use mine on carbs a lot and have found that usuing distilled water also helps a lot. I use a solution that RCS sell which is literally called ultrasonic cleaner fluid. For some shit it's not quite as aggressive as I'd like but it works pretty well. Especially when dealing with unobtainable carb parts.

You might find the TDO5HR frame a little large for good low performance. Be interesting to see. I suspect a td04h or td04hl might be the go. Stock 4m40 turbo is only a TD04-12 I think. They start running out of huff at 4k 14psi

Trust me, I love an LD turbo but a turbo barra will be much better bang for buck. Find a crashed BA Falcon at Manheim and rip all the loom/ecu out of it. The factory ecu is tuneable. The BTR auto is at its limits with 400whp but that's a cake walk for a barra with some basic mods.

Anyone who's owned an LD powered vehicle

You will probably get a little oil come out that's sitting in the axle tube but the main oil level should be below the axle tubes.

@SOHCThe earliest the book I could lay my hands on is 1953. Excessive slip in drive only indicates incorrect adjustment of the manual linkage (should go from carb to valve on the size of the transmission). Or low pressure at high accumulator from a leaking gasket internally. Or stuck clutch piston check ball. There is a chance the earlier ones have differences. Funnily enough I've got to get the converter off a 1960 Invicta which is a mish on its own, requiring the disassembly of the converter.

As a slight left field suggestion for an engine: Volkswagen VR6!! I thought of doing a vr6 swap on my MS117 but decided against it due to having a couple 5mge kicking around and a very limited budget. The main downside of a JZ is JZ tax.

Slightly on topic sharn. Apparently it's common for the n54/55 bmw guys to run 100% methanol in their WMI setup when they've maxed out the flow of the high pressure fuel pump and want a bit more go. I've seen several of those installs and it's got methanol fire written all over it.

I think I've got a book at work. Will check tomorrow. Other wise ring Erick at Automan Automatics. The main thing with a dynaflow is most of the gears are done on different vane pitch in the torque converter. There's 3 different types too from memory. What's it in?

I believe it is possible to get a GVM lowered but requires some indepth engineering certificates to prove that it can't carry the weight that it's currently rated for. I recently (probably a year ago) ran a late 40s truck through reregistration. It had a 6.5 or 7 tonne GVM on it which was incorrect going off GM's specs from the era. Mainly non boosted brakes, section size of the chassis, and the number of leaves in the rear springs. There was also still an old loading certificate in the truck that said it was good for a touch shy of 5 tonnes. With the evidence accepted by NZTA the GVM was dropped which resulted in it being able to be driven on a class 1.

80s Toyota digital dash. Has anyone every fitted one to another model car or know how they function? I've got one out of a GA61 that I've had silly thoughts about fitting to my MS117. I suspect getting a face lift MS112 digi dash would be easier but that's some rocking horse shit spec parts. And even then I suspect electrically ill be in for some fun. The speedo is just a mechanical cable. I guess the tacho, temp, fuel runs off a signal fairly similar to the analog dials.

Looks like I'm several hours too late to identify the engine. I've worked on a couple of those Sunbeam engines and immediately recognized it. But Ive never seen one in a boat. The poms did have a thing for marinising little car engines. We've got a BMC Vedette under a bench at work which is basically a BMC A series of 1098cc I think. Crank start, mag ignition, forward and back box attached to it. Cool little thing. The Vedette was built in many different marks based off an Morris 8/minor power plant over the years. Bruce at Mechanical Restorations Vintage & Classic Spares has a lot of parts for them if you get stuck. He's got a huge stack of NOS bits for a lot of pom stuff from that era.

Thought I'd chuck a plug in for the second running Buick, Oldsmobile, Pontiac day in Christchurch. https://fb.me/e/59wiobZpW

I was taught that a fuse can carry 80% of its rating happily. So 10a fuse will carry 8a all day. Going off that I usually fit a fuse 125% of the max load if a fuse isn't speced by the manufacturer. Another consideration is the wire size. No point fitting a 10a fuse to wire that can only handle 5a.

They are a right pain to get off. A very sturdy puller is required and shock NOT HEAT. At my old job we had a unit like this which worked wonders. The middle bit is hydraulic. The puller we use at work for doing that job is a big hefty cast unit which you can pull up with a 50 40 inch breaker bar without worrying about bending it. Its got solid striking face to hit with a decent sized hammer. Squirt CRC up the keyway. load it up hard with a bigger puller then solidly strike the centre of the puller with a decent sized hammer. make sure you have the nut loosely screwed on the end of the axle to prevent the puller shooting across the workshop.