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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/05/24 in all areas

  1. Modification threshold specifies guard rolling as not needing cert. That fb lvv unofficial questions page is full of misinformation and people who will do anything but read what the rules are
    7 points
  2. I'm in... but you didn't feel a thing did you?
    7 points
  3. I increased the pressure a bit then left it over night It has lost exactly 0 psi which I'm quite happy about. Now the next thing I need to set up is a drier type thing and some decent air feeds in the shed but I think I'll wait to plumb it into the new workshop when it gets built
    6 points
  4. I got a Teflon lined hose and plumbed everything up. It works. The switch turns it off at 110 psi so I'm going to up that a bit because why have something explode at 110psi when your could have it explode at 140psi. The thing I haven't finished yet is the purge valve. I have a bracket for it I just need to wire it in, I'll probably do that now. Anywho, it works.
    6 points
  5. @cletus came over yesterday for a visit and remarked how the compressor looked bigger in real life than on the Internet so I commissioned this portrait with the hope of conveying the size of the compressor accurately.
    5 points
  6. Please count my vote as 2. Mr Swayblack doesn't have an OS account
    4 points
  7. Couple of pics of black car at different stages
    4 points
  8. Dads finished up a radiator shell. Looking great. The original cores are made from hex flared tube to make a honey comb bundle which is all soldered together. There are about 5000 tubes! The plan is to make a false tube core /front but use a custom aluminium multi pass radiator to work as the real radiator. It will be nickel plated once the core brackets are figured out and any other tweaks.
    4 points
  9. After a couple of failed race car projects over the last decade decided it was time for a more simple road car project. Being of that age where you start to reminisce your youth I decided a 90s turbo car would be the ticket. And had always wanted a gtir as a young fella I just so happened to know of an abandoned Gtir project in a paddock and after a quick phone call a deal was done It had been sitting in the paddock approx 7 years. It ran but had a blown gearbox (of course) some rust and dents and every rubber part was perished and dash cracked etc. I immediately brought up on parts blew it to bits fixed the dents and rust and was ready to send it off to the paint shop, then……. I bought another one its about that point things escalated
    3 points
  10. I can’t vote because there’s no option for Sh*t Cun*s to say yes.
    3 points
  11. Measured from top of arch as far as I know. Won't be many arches that don't curve inward. This part of the PDF covers bolt on flares, but if if you just have unmodified body, then measure the same way and should be good. I'm sure Clint will confirm yeah / nah. https://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_05-2020_Tyre_Track_Protrusion.pdf this one shows factory body better vs tyre tread, only shows front/back profile with top of arch used as reference https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/tyres,-wheels-and-hubs/tyres-and-wheels#tab2 Unless it was posted by someone you know isn't an idiot... then take with salt. Front guards for example tend to just bolt on, so I can't see how they would link that to being structural. That said, people will probably ruin guard rolling too, by taking the piss and they will have to bring in rules. Had to flare mine to get enough clearance through full suspension travel for my cert. Didn't even come up as a mention when I explained how I got the clearance. Double skin in rear of mine so fold it over doesn't really change much. Front couldn't do much as bolt on single skin so weak as fuck arch.
    3 points
  12. After guessing the shape, dad provided me with dimensions and photos of original boot panels, gave the CAD model an update, grabbed a sheet of 4.75mm hardboard and set about probably the most to factory spec part of the rebuild! Also carved up a gear knob from scrap rimu with the correct shift pattern, scrubbed up real nice with linseed oil too.
    3 points
  13. About 2 weeks after I brought the car to Queenstown, I broke my shoulder riding the XR250... So for the last 8 weeks I've been staring at this in my garage without being able to touch it. The sling came off last week. I'm still a one armed bandit for anything heavier than washing dishes, but I still wanted to feel like I was making progress. A couple of mates helped me get the car to work over Easter weekend so I could wash it and start on a few small jobs. Much better. One job I really want to do is update the exhaust. The old side pipe has cracked and it had a bad habit of hitting the ground over ripple strips etc. This time I'd like to go full stainless and exit out the back of the car, with two mufflers. Going under the diff will be tricky because of my droop travel and lowered panhard rod mount, so I'm thinking of heading over the diff instead. It looks like it'll work - this is with the LR shock at close to full compression: Rear muffler location will look something like this: I'll run the smaller reso/muffler just before the diff and might run a V band up the front because the old flanges I've been using are pretty tired now! Taking the exhaust out the back makes me feel old. My ear drums will love me for it though
    3 points
  14. I think I figured out why the air bleed timer wasn't working. Transistors are supposed to explode yes?
    2 points
  15. Even in 2014 it was hard to find some parts, this car came with no rear interior, had top mount but no surround which is crucial to make top mount work. Factory airbox for a GTIR is like rocking horse poo as they all had pod filters fitted and are bespoke for GTIR. Got the spot light grill on tardme for $150, was another GTIR collector planning on bidding but forgot, he said he would have paid up to 1k for it at the time. Then I sold the car with the grill on it. Last rego and wof was 2014 so no idea what became of it. Didnt get another wof after i sold it.
    2 points
  16. 2 points
  17. Yes! I do enjoy the story behind them. A literal bone-zone mobile. The purpose built shaggin' wagon. I was looking at picking up an S-MX long before this came into my life as I'd always wanted a 4WD version but life decided to make me experience the 2WD VTEC version instead and I'm not complaining. Epic thank you! I've trawled through the S-MX owners group on FB to see the old owners posts and see if I can drum up any more info. Not a huge amount more but did find it's running a P72 ECU - had originally been running a chipped P28 but that wouldn't shift the auto box. I look forward to getting deeper into things soon.
    2 points
  18. Your dad has some skills.. Nice work.
    2 points
  19. Cool little car, and awesome that it's been vtec converted, i bet it'll go like throwing a brick really hard. They rusted really badly in the UK, so hopefully yours isn't too much worse than what you have found. Has anyone linked you to this yet? i found it when i was looking into the SMX myself https://www.motoroids.com/features/with-a-cabin-that-encouraged-love-making-the-honda-s-mx-wanted-you-to-see-the-letter-m-as-an-e/
    2 points
  20. Some goodies arrived from across the ditch. thought I’d give them a looksy
    2 points
  21. Whatever you do, do not accept an airport pickup from this man ^^ Bort kindly offered me a ride one time, which I was happy to take, but then at several points on the trip I seriously feared for my safety and death flashed before my eyes. Sliding around the back seat of the angry V8 Valiant coupe (2 door sedan?) with no rear seatbelts as he did the imperial ton passing slower traffic on twisty roads. I was not entirely comfortable with that situation. Drive it like you stole it comes to mind. Then we were regaled with stories of how he rolled a car while younger, and other interesting motoring calamities he had encountered - whilst entertaining, did not add to the feeling of safety. Then we were relieved of the near-death experience when he decided to do some road levelling with the sump of the aforementioned car, and it decided to drain the lubricating fluids, rendering it inoperable for the remainder of the event. Hence the nickname "Sumpson" was acquired. Then IIRC @yetchh gave me a ride back to Christchurch in his 121 which seemed to have an intermittent fueling problem and so it wasn't being super reliable either, but we made it. Such memories. TL;DR - if you don't want to die, don't travel to Hanmer with @RUNAMUCK
    2 points
  22. End goal pretty much this
    2 points
  23. 2 points
  24. The wof this week is off the cards. I thought I had better check why the handbrake was so pathetic and discovered that both rear calipers were basically seized. I thought the brakes were not as good, now I know why. I may as well rebuild all the calipers and if my visa can take the punishment I might get new discs and pads as well, I might have to sell some shit So I to feel like I had achieved something I messed with wiring of the fuel sensing relay to try to make it work. @h4nd had given me a dose of RTFM so I reworked the wiring to suit, but now it doesn't work at all. I checked many things but no go. There is a good chance I toasted it when I wired it up wrong. I might just wire a normal relay up to and use the alternator as the signal wire. I also poo'd up the washer tank some more as it was still leaking, tomorrow morning may tell me some things; Then I decided to move the afr meter to somewhere where I could actually see it when driving. Basically lots of tinkering with shit and avoiding jobs around the house that I should be doing. Oh and yesterday I tuned/balanced the carbs a bit, hopefully it will run a little better. And also I noticed the gearbox drain plug was leaking.... Cool cool
    2 points
  25. Beem working on this thing pretty flat out. Done a bunch of interior work and just rebuilt all the steering components. Everything feels a lot tighter now . Not too far away being ready for a warrant
    2 points
  26. When I had finished school, was studying Radio broadcasting and volunteering at a local radio station - this car was the coolest thing around and was owned by a local DJ. Fast Forward to 2023 and I'm still in touch with that person, he's lived overseas for a decade and it turns out the car needs to be rescued from its existing resting spot. I got the opportunity to do such a thing and it's now in my posession. Also what a pest image hosting is these days. Imgur wouldn't let me login no matter what and everything else sucks so I shall try uploading here (for the second time after initially creating this whole thing in the project discussion thread before realising last minute and throwing it here) So why am I excited about a sex toaster? Because it used to look like this: bebo.com represent! Before it was parked up owner did some schmancy engine work. Standard, these come with a B20B. Non vtec, non exciting. But that can be rectified, and rectified it was: Supposedly a B18C top end. I say supposedly because I'll elaborate further soon. That ended up in the car, and this was how it looked when it was done: So it's now a 2.0 Vtec. Still a column change automatic but that suits me fine as it's got my favourite seating arrangement - front bench seating. Anyway - After talking for about 6 months I finally got the opportunity to pick it up and see it in person for the first time in 10 years. Turns out it had been sitting almost entirely outside for the last decade. RIP. But I was still excited. Upon arrival with @Threeonthetree closely in tow we discovered the fuel pump was dead, tank smelt horrible and the alarm wanted to go off almost non stop. We winched it onto a trailer and I made the long trek home. Nice wet Neal. So it's been in my posession for over half a year. Fuel tank came out and the pump was replaced. Spark plugs swapped out - and it ran mint. All the drive belts are old and need replacing. The tyres are cooked and thanks to it's nearly full decade outside, of which 3-4 years were in wave hearing distance of a west Auckland beach we have the dreaded R word come into play. I knew it might have a bit of rust when I got it. When we picked it up I ignored nearly everything in that respect because I didn't want dreams dashed right there and then. I did get under it and find a few spots while it was in the shed. Mainly under the front end where the rad sits and the rear end in behind the bumper - plus anywhere the bodykit was tek screwed in place has caused rust to appear and spread. Here's a few snaps: So there is an idea of it's exciting rust problem. There is more than I've shown above but it's all similar spec patches so to save time and photo bombardment I've just shared the above. I'm currently blasting and refinishing the wheels for some new rubber. Then I'll do basic fluids so I can get it off this hoist I have temporary access too. Then it's time to make a decision about what next. Thankfully I have next to nothing invested into this. The unique shape plus the unique engine makes me want to continue the battle and see it through to a happy driving state. It's certed for all current mods which are wheels, adjustables, bodykit, engine and the rego is on hold - so the fire is still burning in me bright enough to give it a good hot go. My skills only go so far and the main issue is the one that will eat $$$. Basic mechanical stuff just takes time and knuckle skin so with that I'm happy to persevere. Oh - about the supposedly B18C top end thing. I've yarned with 4 or 5 proper Honda nuts and each one has said different things. Some agree that the owners recollection is right. One swore up and down it's a B16. Either way it reminded me of lifan top speed arguments from the small bike world so I've bowed out of that yarn and now have a stamping on the head to locate which will determine what it really is. It was built by Lin Chen supposedly who used to be one of the dudes at Speed Factor down here. I should really track him down and have a yarn to find out more. Oh, before I forget: here's that fancy engine bay after sitting for so many years Feel free to add opinions and comments below. I've got a lot of bits for it that came with the car such as a mint rear subframe, new radiator, even got full monsoon kit for the windows. It'll need new rotors and a brake refurb - which is okay but all the parts for these seem to have been hoarded or produced by one guy in the UK so I'll need to figure out everything required and order bulk in one go. Anyway thats my first 4 wheel post on OS after many years of membership. Stay tuned, I may eventually update this but progress will be slow.
    1 point
  27. I'm about to get the landy vapour blasted as it has too much bog and house paint on it. It has been an eternity since I have painted a car in bare metal and I'm not sure I have ever done alloy panels. Is Epotec primer still a thing?
    1 point
  28. Nice. Yeah there was a patch there where you couldn’t give them away. probably a terrible idea for a project car haha. Wasn’t till I got into this I realised how hard it is to find parts for them that aren’t fucked
    1 point
  29. Ettore knew what he was doing. Even if most of his stuff is fiendishly difficult to reproduce. The chassis forgings where tube meets rail are state of the art for the period. Welding at the time wasn't trusted - with good reason. Looking forward to seeing the clutch parts done. The Bugatti clutch is a clever semi-centrifugal device. Keep up the good work.
    1 point
  30. The @TimShadboltfan27 and @SunnyCoupe show? Hell yes!
    1 point
  31. This was the only full GTIR ive owned, bought for 650, sold for 6800. Had the umbrella too..... Dont think it lasted long after i sold it to some bogan down Whanganui way, according to carjam.
    1 point
  32. I have only just now realised what's going to happen the streets of Chch when Bort's old man pops his clogs....
    1 point
  33. The little paddle wheel speed sensor thing And my soon to be patented spill ring device. K-Mart silicone dog bowl with a hole cut in it then stretched over the through-hull fitting to seal against it. Now when you undo the cap and pull the sender out, the water goes into the dog bowl and can be effortlessly sucked up with a sponge. Instead of having to lift up the carpet and floor boards and get to the lowest point of the bilge to mop it up. Now to sell my invention for $80 a piece.
    1 point
  34. Yea keen to put together a rag tag crew of poorly organised individuals to drive one of the wounders blue smoke machines across the Amuri Plains in search of PGs and Irvine’s pies
    1 point
  35. Yo, Long time no see, I figured that because im about to embark on phase 2 of this heap that I should probably make one of these. Anyway, I needed a new daily so I went shopping and found this sweet 82 long bed, I was after a long bed specifically as I needed/wanted it for my shop truck to haul choppers round with. The 350 had a sweet cam and gear drive so it sounded cool and had the requisite chop chop but the 4km/l fuel consumption meant that the daily part of the new car purchase didnt work quite so well. Luckily I had done my due diligence before the purchase and also bought a 2005 Mercedes Benz E320 cdi. Anyway @98cc hit me up and said he wanted to come visit so I put him to work and we pulled the 350 out and swung the OM648 in. Then at some point a @peteretep came and visited so we did some more work, anyway, I had a deadline, I made it, the truck got its maiden voyage with its new motor around Norway chasing a bunch of bikers, good times. Basically the rundown of the swap were: OM648 3.2l inline 6 diesel, the same one the Blacksmoke Racing dudes use. Baldurs Control Systems DID1 stand alone ECU 722.6 Mercedes 5 speed Auto with lockup OF Gear TCU 3 inch intercooler Built 10 Bolt with 30 spline axles, 9 inch housing ends and bearings, Eaton Trutrac and 3.08 gears. At this point it turned into my summertime daily and did truck things Then doing the usual facebook marketplace thing late at night I found a truck camper for sale, so of course I had to have that... At this point I found the limit of the 1/2 ton suspension so with the camper and the 6/8 drop that it has, so I had to do something, I made a bag over leaf setup in the back to help with load carrying capabillity. So about here is up to date, the engine swap is legit, it now gets 14 km/l and will happily cruise at 120 on the highway, because of the 8 foot bed it hauls all manner of things without asking, and does a skid. Discussion
    1 point
  36. OK, so this is where the story of how my current situation came to be. I was pretty happy with how the truck ran, towed and hauled, but if we rewind to summer last year, I took one of my mates here to see the Malmo race day of the Swedish event StreetWeek, which is a drag and drive event run every year throughout different routes in Sweden. Anyway we floated the idea of participating, I threw it out there that we should use the truck, then I thought a bit more, decided I didnt really want to turn my daily into a drag car, then we ummed and arhhed about buying a 25.5 rolling chassis doing a sloppy LS and going for gold, but the rules to get modified cars street legal (requirement for running StreetWeek) here are dumb so we then put a pause on that idea, at that is bascally where we left it for 6 months. Anyway so I was just randomly doom scrolling Insta on a sunday night and there was a post about getting ready to sign up for StreetWeek on the coming Tuesday.. So I hit up old mate and said, shouldn't we just try and get a spot then figure out the rest after. Tuesday rolls around and I'm sitting at my computer like a Swifty trying to get a ticket, and low and behold we got one. So now this summer we are doing a drag and drive event that will take us some where 5 hours north of Stockholm. One issue though, the truck whilst a great daily does not a drag car make... Enter Phase 2. Basically to get 500 hp out of one of these things isnt too difficult. The formula is pretty tried and true: Big HPFP custom Injectors, and enough air to burn all that diesel effectively. So out came the Injectors to be sent to Diesel Mekken in Sweden, they should flow around 185mm3 @ 1400uS when I get them back. Next on the list was to remove all the things that we wont be using, and seeings as I already had the injectors out removing the rocker cover makes modifying the front cover for the 400cdi pump easier. The gasket was also leaking so it was a no brainer. This is what I found, notbad.jpg for 500,000km It is almost as if Mercedes themselves planned this, because the holes are all there to mount the bigger pump, just a matter of a bit of a trim on the front cover and everything bolts up. After removing one of the idler pulleys and trimming the oil filter and thermostat housings the everything is good to go. So all in all a win. Next on the list is building the new turbo manifold, it is going to be a compound setup with the HX40 over the stock GT2356, so hopefully I dont lose too much drivability.
    1 point
  37. Then of course it was time to have a good look while cleaning it a bit, and taking stock So, its a 1974 Holden HQ Belmont Sedan in Orchid Red. Last wof/reg in 2001, so was on the road into Kpies early 20's around the same time i met her. Seems it also got the Torana front seats, maybe the centre console? Interior looks pretty good under the dust. Overall looks pretty straight and complete. Some rusty bits of course but not too bad at all for one of these 8s out back and 7s up front, massive CNG tank in the book gives it a rake. This car was a NZ new factory 202 manual 3 on the tree car. Bill bought it cheap from a guy who bought it to put the v8 that was in it into something else, or something - bought with no engine in it anyway The engine and box now in it is a 173 (2.8l) with a manual 4 on floor from the aforementioned rolled Torana, which had recently had a fair bit spent on the engine (??) It has a single barrel Stromberg and also has CNG. Only $4.20 to Whanganui! Took the plugs out and oiled the cylinders, cleaned the sparkplugs and filed the points and hooked up a battery. Neighbours come to assist. Many opinions were shared We managed to get it to fire off on squirting gas down the yap, but it just wouldn't keep running. The consensus is that the timing and/or the electrics are weird Brake pedal does nothing till halfway then hard stops, no braking action. Handbrake kinda works. Engine isnt stuck and clutch is free and gearbox goes into all gears. Bill is stoked it fired up, Kirsty is happy, and that it rolls at all is good enough for the transporter man. We push it back in the shed to wait for the transporter
    1 point
  38. Organized time off and ferrys etc and a cool 10 days hanging in Fielding. Real barn find! Her names on it so this must be it. We pumped up the tyres and had a general look around one day Then cleared all the stuff out over the next few days, did a lot of gardening too, Hooked it up to the van and pulled it into the light
    1 point
  39. Made some gates so Finn has a nice place to hang out off the lead. Gates are 100x25 Oregon and 200mm round strainers for each gate post buried a meter per side, pretty sturdy: He was keen to show that he could still escape if he wanted to… Alcatraz it is not… yet…
    1 point
  40. Had this old picnic table for 10 years, was given to us by friends at a campground so it's proper old, bowed, rustic and full of engravings from lots of campers over the decades. But heavy, in the way and not used by us so we chopped it up this arvo. (using our other younger table as today's bench)..
    1 point
  41. The body work was difficult. Far from complete but the overall dimensions are now 'close to' correct.
    1 point
  42. Its been a... year. And I mean that it is both surprising that a whole year has passed, but also not, because it passed in the blink of an eye, because it was a _year_. Lots of things non car-related happened, less things car related happened. I still tinkered in the garage though, as it was excellent therapy time :-). No, it still doesn't run. No its not any closer. Yes, I worked on things that get it no closer to running and driving. Yes, I enjoyed it. No, I don't have a timeframe, not what its about :-). Some highlights: I took the boot lid off because I couldn't get up in there to clean with it on. Overspray all over the wiring boots, grimy, all caked up with the clearcoat, some surface rust here and there, nothing that some scotchbright and etch primer wouldn't fix. Back to back I think the contrast is quite satisfying... Yes, I painted the jam. Removed the rubber boots / washer hose and vaporblasted all the overspray off them, they look brand new now :-). Have cut some rubber gaskets to go around the hatch hinge studs to do the job of the seam sealer that was used from factory. It's not like I'll be driving the thing in the rain much. Process photos: Cleaned the jam thoroughly, then roughed up with grey scotchbright. Sprayed etch primer on the parts that were missing paint up under the top of the hatch. Ordered some 2k paint from a place in NZ. They pre-mix a slow hardener in, put it in a spray can and courier it. Has about a week of pot-life apparently. Worked excellently, no reactions, good coverage. Did 3 coats, then sprayed some into the lid to go around and do touch-ups on various chips and stuff. I'll end up doing all the jams, and probably the bay like this myself, then one day It'll get a door shut respray by someone a little more into body work than I. Made it look a heap tidier in the mean time. Back into the interior, the rear-view mirror was all delaminating / corroding around the edge like they do. As this is a super early car it has the early style mirror... I didn't realise there were different types when I bought a new replacement mirror from Mazda.... Well... I figured I should swap to the newer style, as if I ever need a replacement windscreen they are way, way more common. This meant I had to remove the mirror mount that was glued to the screen... This puppy: I popped a couple of screws in there to give me something to grab, but it was on there solid (which is a good thing). I read about removing them, and it seems that heat is the key. I went gently gently with the heatgun... heating from the outside.... This was wrong and got me nowhere. After turning my heatgun from 'kitten breath' to 'dragon flame' (the only two settings is has), I heated the ever loving crap out of it from the inside... I mean got it properly hot... I gave it a tweak with the pliers and it fell right off, into the wet rag I had right below it... where it sizzled and steamed. I read horror stories of people dropping them, where they then melted the dash and carpet.... No thanks. I got most of the residue glue off with solvents and careful scraping. Its some sort of bonded on ceramic pad on the windscreen I'm pretty sure, I was scared I'd scratch it and you'd be able to see the scratch from the outside. No chance of that, the black portion is very, very hard. Have got the later style button and the correct Loctite adhesive to bond it on, but haven't done it yet as I need to come up with a plan to get it perfectly in the right place, or it'll drive me nuts every time I look at it. During my experiments with powering up the electronics in the car, I played with the HVAC system a bit. It all seemed to work as it should, but it was kind of noisy, and the blower motor sounded terrible.. I'm sure you can see where this is going.. Rejuvenation time! Turns out you can remove the A/C evaporator and blower motor without pulling the dash, its not even that hard... but the distribution / mixer / heatercore box is right in the middle... So I pulled the dash. I was expecting a headache, but genuinely the easiest dash I've pulled out of any car, was pleasantly surprised! I'm super lucky that the dash in this car is in very good condition (see the original interior photo, its the only part that IS), so its stored safely inside on the spare bed :-). Will need one repair to a plastic mount where the glovebox screws in, but basically all FD dashes are broken there. Will glue the cracked bit up, and come up with some sort of 3d-printed reinforcement I reckon, to stop it happening again. Pulled this completely apart.. The DC motors that drive the blowers are pretty grunty.. The original one from the car was particularly nasty too. Brushes still looked okay, but the casing was a bit corroded, and it was packed full of leaves, dust, feathers, grime, your mothers underwear, shells, nuts... everything. I had a spare blower motor, so yanked the motor from that as it was a much cleaner unit. Still pulled it apart, tickled up the commutator and brushes, re-lubed everything... the usual. The plastic impeller and casings all got a low pressure vaporblast to bring them back to new. Took the recirculation door actuator apart, cleaned tested and re-lubed as well, tested the relay... all the things. Should be good to go :-). Gave the distribution box the same treatment. Although I cleaned this one in the sink, as the foam was actually still in really good condition so I didn't want to blast it off. The heater core pipes were in a really sorry state though. So pitted. Removed all the corrosion, made sure they were still nice and strong, blasted and had them plated. Reinstalled with new o-rings. Hope like hell they don't leak at the interface to the core, as that's a dash-out job to fix, but I reckon they'll be alright :-). Dummy fitted this with the pipes loose so I could adjust them to be right in the middle of the holes in the firewall, have new pass through grommets on the way from Amayama.
    1 point
  43. Somehow I’ve not previously seen this thread… so I’ve just had the jaw-dropping experience of reading it from end to end Bloody hell…… no messing! Thought the block casting was epic… but that sump!! So he goes and makes several This does actually deserve the word AWESOME!
    1 point
  44. Found some! This is 14 years ago when I sold it (fourteen years...holy shit). This roughly 2001 or 2002 (20 fcking years ago) Stock bluetop 120km's and t50. Bought brand new Superlites because my dad got a good discount working for South Pacific Tyre/Dunlop in Upper Hutt. Might have been through Beaurepaires. Had good shocks and springs done by Ron Scanlon. After a few years it ran a bearing on Paekakariki hill and I put a 4agze from ae101 in it. Well Ron did. Wired by Nick Tollemache (spelling?) he used to race a purple ae86. I later put a W58 in it. It was very tidy (still have that steering wheel in my 200sx): I shouldn't have ever sold it. But I had it for about 7 years did autocrosses, Taupo (old track) and Manfeild (in the pouring rain). Drove it every day. Replaced it with an ae92 GTZ which I continued the idea of turbo charging the 4agze. tldr: spam about car sale regret.
    1 point
  45. Some carefull grinding sliced the nuts nicely. Lights out and quick brush off revealed some nasty shit. A little bit in the bootlid. But..... the channels are mint! The scaly bit behind the chrome trim mentioned earlier. Barely a fleck in comparison.
    1 point
  46. Went through the boot today, found a few gaskets and other bits and pieces i had stashed over the years. Removed the carpet and ran a screwstick around the seams before waving the vacuum around and looking for speedholes. Worse than i thought but still not as bad as it could be. Yet. Still need to remove lights and bumper to get a better idea. Soaking all nuts and bolts with crc before i start that fight.
    1 point
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