GregT

Not something as simple as a damper on the throttle body is it ? At one point a lot of cars were coming with a damper on the linkage to slow the rev drop when you lifted off.

Often there is room for a bigger impeller. Might be worth a look across the Suzuki range to see if there's a bigger pump used somewhere. They all seem to have the same OD where they plug into the cases. Maybe Hyabusa ? Agree a remote pump lets you test circulation rates etc.

It's not unkinown to put a larger OD impellor in the waterpump to increase circulation speed. I'd probably have tried that first before going electric. Nice work so far though.

You want someone who advertises as a repair welder. Best in SI died abt 8 months ago - and I still haven't found a good rep-lacement. They're rare.

Engineless GSXR1100's used to be quite common as the engines went for modified minisprints and other cars. Pretty well all those frames have gone for scrap now. If he's got a frame it's worth trying to get it legal.

What's the problem with the current frame ?

Agree clutch.synchro and gear mass are the main factors but you can help yourself a bit too. A clutch pedal stop adjusted so that there is the minimum movement required to free it - and no more - will help. So may a change of gearbox oil.

Devcon - and sand it down. Not too bad a bodge for a old/slow road bike but I wouldn't use it for anything seeing a track.

If you're building a racebike, there are probably more GSXR750J - 1988 - frames around. The 1100 fits - just. A worthwhile size and weight saving.

Have a look in a bike wreckers. The size you quote is close to a lot of the 250/400 fours. The alloy tanks can have the fittings moved quite easily. Please do put in an electric pump. A couple of years back I was asked my opinion of a cylinder head off a Riley being used in VCC competition. The builder thought the color variation front to rear was mixture....I told him it was temperature gradient. It was still using thermosyphon. Even a second supplementary rad under the first would be worth looking at. Better to overcool and fit a thermostat than do damage when it overheats.

If you can get that valve to seal enough to put an air line on the plug hole, you may be able to remove the valve spring from that valve. Once that's done penetrating oil on the stem and move it up & down till it frees. If it won't seat enough to hold air, it's probably bent in which case it's head off. Been through all this with old Jags. It's very common to have a valve stick when one's been sitting - then you bend it.

Done a compression check ? If a valve's stuck open you may have a bent one.

Moving in exalted company there. Well done. Not sure I like the underfloor gearbox position but I see why it's done that way. Hope the floor is a bit better than a piece of MDF...

Fuzzy hair man is pretty well correct. Each bank is a 120 degree spaced three so a 3 : 1 on each side plus enough extra volume/length before a muffler will work. No balance pipe needed. Your full-width large volume, center paired exit muffler will work. The tailpipes/outlets are simply pressure bleed resistors. Make the muffler large enough, no flat sides (as they'll pulse and crack} run the pipes into it for at least 100mm. I'd probably do two outlet pipes of 2in OD perf - with closed inner ends. No packing needed. 28mm here is 1 1/8in OD. Well, closest anyway. If the ports are oval, I'd go slightly larger for the headers and yes, a step at the head joint may help reversion at low RPM. For a 1500cc six, 1 1/4in OD primaries aren't out of the way.

If you can work out most of what you want bent - and draw it - Autobend in ChCh can mandrel bend to order. Their mandrel sizes and radii are on their website - or were. Saves a shitload of fucking about. I'd do separate 3 : 1's with 30inch long headers. Torque peak will be about 5000rpm. Mufflers I'd use the alloy straight thru bike ones off trademe in a suitable colour. One 2in version works well as a race muffler for 1000 fours.