GregT

This was vaporblasted then clear etch primed. It was going in a "1950's" replica build so not a lot of painted parts.

Canterbury Auto Electric in Hornby,Chch have made up HT leads for me previously at reasonable cost. Pretty sure they can supply right angled ends.

Kelford have an enormous profile library. i used to go into it frequently. Staff turnover has meant some knowledge has been lost. Phil/Gumby now gone used to immediately say -yeah,we did this for so and so- and have the results too.

Plenty of argument for and against. As an engine builder/tuner specialising over the years in matching cam lobe centers to the application I see your point. But I'd still argue that there's little point in grafting it onto an engine optimised for standard cams. Too much work for too little return IMO. My personal opinion is that too much time,money and complexity has been spent trying to make the ICE drive like an electric motor. I like some character in what I drive or ride.

Good enough for government work.

VVT was introduced to fill in dips in the power curve caused by longer duration/bigger lift cams. I see no gain at all with stock cams. /My opinion.

From where I stand as a past participant, now observer, your biggest worry isn't that you're wrecking others rides, it's that you'll be forgotten. When living in Diamond Harbour - a spot frequently a destination for rides - three times in 5 years i had to pick up crashed riders who'd been forgotten by the group. Take them to the district nurse in the village then go to the cafe to wind up/abuse shit out of the group about their missing rider. Make sure you're not forgotten about. And ride at your own pace.

Give it a soak in atf/acetone mix first.

Quite a few BMW's and some Volvos use 33mm OD shims. Widens the net a little.

Respacing those doesn't look too difficult. Possibly just longer coupler pieces needed.Carrier rails are easy using alloy angle. i've respaced many sets of carbs involving making up longer/shorter linkages and the really good bit - fuel joiners....

I suspect you want the full Kraut heavy Panzer sound......

My experience with bike exhausts is that empty chambers with no packing give you a harsh metallic note. I'd be tempted to pack the center chamber with one perf pipe in that drawing.

I'm in the habit of popping the seals on new motorcycle wheel bearings and repacking anyway. Surprising how little - if any - grease you find in some bearings. Put onto it years back by an old bike mechanic I knew.

Like the supplementary thrust bearing(s). The devil is in the detail though. There'll be quite a lot of heat sink coming through- which may well melt the grease out of the presumably sealed bearings. I'd have cleaned them out and repacked with HMP grease I think.

Got a workshop manual ? They can frequently be found free online to download.

First step is split what you have and assess. Pretty sure rod kits can be found.

Spare bottom end in a beer crate, Traditional. Going to rebuild the Honda or go Lifan ? If you split the engine(s) i'm happy to come and assess/advise.

If it's straightforward cut and respline, ask Dick Chapman at Proturn in Sydenham. The Formula 5000 boys use him to make halfshaft outers out of something Japanese.

If you still had the 16in front it may have made the bike unstable at the top end. The 17 front has given you some more trail which equals stability. At some point the CV carbs have been rejetted for the pods. Running without is roughly equal to #10 smaller in mainjet size. I'd do a few precautionary plug chops. I've done enough 1100 heads to be wary of running for long periods without filters. Race engines, fine. Road, not so much. Edit - Probably not what you wanted to hear. But damage the head or hole a piston and it gets very spendy very fast. And good heads are rocking horse poo.

750 fours on alky, I never ran less than 3/8in bore fuel lines. Given bigger lines the pump will push it through.

This. I set up a lot of TQ carbs using a Facet and a Hilborn idle bypass. From memory the 2nd softest spring in the kit gives 1.5 psi. Bike carbs on alky you need volume not pressure. Probably the same on your setup. Ask the Nelson speedway parts suppliers for a used bypass. if you need better accuracy I have a 0-5psi gauge I imported you could borrow.

Fatally flawed

Mine went up Porters Pass quite well with a TQ on a trailer behind. Held about 40k up the steep bit in low on the auto.

Never had a problem with mine - but living out of town the minimum run time was at least 30 minutes. Engine coolant temps were my worry in a Canterbury summer.

If you're running an automatic, I'd really recommend plumbing up a separate trans cooler. Taking it away from the radiator was worth about 5 deg C drop in coolant temp on mine. Might well be needed on a turbo.