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So another update, in a nutshell:. NZ post – pretty useless. Jegs – fucking awesome. The lady from NZ post sent me an email this morning basically telling me it could be ages till they sort out the issue (damage assessment team/reports/sufficient packaging determination etc etc) and I’m prob better off ordering a new one. She also advised me to contact the merchant to advise how it was packaged (when it is in a Jegs branded carton and was opened/inspected at the Youshop warehouse)… So. I placed an order for another cam, with a note saying it was a replacement for a broken one, that I was dealing with the carrier at this end regards redress, and asking if this had happened before. Within minutes I had an email from a Jegs rep saying they had noted my repeat order, they were sorry I had been inconvenienced, they would refund me immediately, and there was no need to send the thing back (all based on a message with no photos)... So after running round town yesterday, repacking carton, arguing over tracking fees and sending it to Aklnd, it seems today I could have saved myself the bother. Being an honest chap, I have advised the lady from NZ post that it is being refunded, that I expect the new one to arrive post-free since I have already paid once, and that since I’ve saved them loadsamoney I would like the thing back for my shed. We’ll see how it pans out…

So I wanted another van, ive had 4 in the past and they are handy for camping, general manly chores, sleeping in when drunk, hauling go karts/bikes/car parts whatever. I had a look at a couple of older vans, a C20 datsun that i was too big for, my head was hard on the roof. I also had an early L300 organised to purchase off a panelbeater, but it turned out to be too rotten for him to fix economically. Also had a look at an 88 hiace but the motor was chooched. I decided i didnt need another project so went and had a look at this it was quite cheap, but it looked terrible due to it being a painters van, it was covered in paint and generally filthy, i bought it off a car yard and i think they CBF touching it, they staff said they used it for moving their own stuff and runs to the dump. Anyway under the ugliness its a really good runner lowered it this evening, s14 springs i got for free in the back with 2 coils cut off, torsion in the front so that was easy. Will get some different stiffer springs for the back as its a bit soft, these were only a test Will probably put some 14 or 15'' rims on it, and i might get the turbo off a factory turbo deez one to chuck on

I bought a used radio flyer on trade me for $50 and decided to make it look a bit better and give it to my boy for his birthday. One thing lead to another and now its a candy red low riding radio flyer

I pryed off the front cover with a small screwdriver, took my least favourite card from my wallet and cut & glued it into place using a pritt glue stick. It seems to work well and blocks out the lights too http://s9.postimg.cc/62ef6e8fz/image.jpg

So it's been a while since the last update, wiring is all completed and this happens when the key is turned Click on the picture

Oh, and it appears my replacement headlight buckets have arrived. I'll call past my mum's on the way home to pick them up...

Hey guys, this event is coming on the third of April. Its a great event run by the Waitara Soccer Club. Gates open 9:30 and it costs $2 for entry. I'm heading along with my work (classiccarparts.co.nz0 as we are having a stall there. So if anyone down that way needs any bits just let me know and we'll bring them down! Otherwise just pop in and have a chat. Hopefully we see some of you there https://www.facebook.com/Allcomerscharitymotorshow/ http://www.stuff.co.nz/taranaki-daily-news/news/midweek/76736916/every-vehicle-welcome-in-the-all-comers-charity-motor-show-in-waitara

HNNNG.

That should be pretty Ace around Town. You probably want something like this if you need to go for a decent drive out of town though:

i just chucked them on to see what they look like. the photos look a bit weird because the light is reflecting weirdly, or some shit like that. 2016-03-08_04-40-17 by sheepers, on Flickr 2016-03-08_04-40-26 by sheepers, on Flickr

Wasn't there a random fabrication thread once? And are you building a ladder for the bed next? Or is that a step

Story time. The temp gauge usually only just registers, but on Saturday on the way to the swimming hole it went right up and the heater was blowing pretty hot too, I figured a faulty thermostat and clearly a fucked heater tap cos 30 degree days and non turnoffable heaters suck. As it never really registered full temp the heater obviously wasn't getting noticeably hot. Sunday morning I open it up and find no thermostat at all.... then the spare cars engine also does not have one. There is a listing in the internets for one however. i track down the right number and surprisingly Repco has one, it fits into the spare housing i took along to Repco so i get it along with another gasket. Installed it and go for a run, it quickly gets up to what i consider a normal temp and stays there...sweet. Driving home the stereo starts going crackly, then I turn a corner and my leg gets burnt by steamy hot coolant dripping from the heater valve. Not too burnt cos it is using the stereo to cool things down on the way through which is kind of considerate of the old girl. Fortunately I have a spare heater tap in my massive parts stash, this one is actually fully functional. I install this after pulling out most of the dash, then hop in for a quick run to get it up to temp. Everything is sweet, but on the way back turning into my road I hear a distant crash, which turns out to be the stereo falling onto the road cos i left it on the boot during my test drive.... So a win and a loss, karma is restored. I have also now bought another BT stereo....

Well after the hiccup with the head gasket I repaired it and then took it to the Drag racing yesterday. Off the trailer it ran a 14.1 @ 97mph with a 1.97 60ft - I was like sweet that launched and no spinning I then ran a few 14.0's while I tried to work out my shift light and that pushed me into 13.9 and 13.8's. I DYO'd 13.85 and buttoned off at the line until a Skyline beside me pushed me hard to the line and I ran 13.7 but because he red lit I won The last couple of runs I couldn't get traction and the track was going off as others had similar issues, the weather had a lot to do with it. I was so impressed with this little car and so many others

Well things have finally settled down a little bit for me to start a thread on my new old car. Selling my hatchback was a massive headache but so happy it went to someone in the end who reckons he'll have on the road in about a year (he's a panelbeater which helps I believe). I flew down to Christchurch a couple of weekends ago with the old man, & after having a good chat with the previous owner we jumped in & roared off. Been a while since I drove a LHD car, last time was about 15-20 years ago in my mates old '76 mustang, but it didn't take too long to get the hang of it. And dad piped up when he saw that I was starting to wander over the centerline too which helped. The trip was a blast. 4 hours sleep the night before & barely half an hour on the ferry made for an interesting drive toward the end - especially driving through the night in pouring rain with the windows leaking. Fun times. Took a coupla pics just round the corner from the previous owners place Took a couple of days, but the hatch got picked up & I was able to park the Camaro in it's new spot Discussion topics greatly welcomed here: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/52171-jeds-74-type-lt-camaro/

^ we can start our own club!

I got sick of replacing header gaskets all the time and ended up with some reasonable cast iron manifolds. The did hurt the top end power. Going to higher profile tyres helped the headers getting bashed on the road, the car had 245/50/14 on the front when I bought it. The factory tires for these Camaros was 215/70/14 Don't waste your time on a second hand cam, and new lifters at the same time. Seeing that a BBC might be on the cards I wouldn't do much more than the intake and Dissy. Another thought, BBC in Camaros make great drag cars, crap for going round corners. An LS motor with over drive trans is a much better answer in my mind.

https://trademe.co.nz/1046624766

how about having an IAT sensor before the throttle and another in the plenum? I was thinking of doing dual IAT before and after intercooler on a turbo car to see the temperature difference.

Nice ride , one of the handful of US cars I really like. Personally, I'd keep it as original as possible, but I like your "period" mods.

Dizzy kit http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/msd-84741/ Carb http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/edl-1411/

I wouldn't bother too much with the cam and manifold if you are happy with the current performance. Do cam, manifold all at once with a pair of heads. You aren't going to get very much in return for your buck without increasing compression and head flow. For reliability I would definitely invest in a new Mallory or MSD ignition kit with dizzy, leads and ignition box. (DO NOT and I repeat DO NOT buy one of the cheap Pro-Comp generic chinese dizzys. It will cause many more problems than it would solve) SBC and BBC dizzys are interchangeable so would fit your BB dreams too. Also spend the money you would have spent on a cam and gasket kit on buying a new 600cfm Edelbrock carburettor. It will see you through whatever changes you make in the future and would probably be OK for a mild BB when you go that route. (or get a 750 and lean it out for a robust BB carby in the future)

//oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/42499-random-fabrication-thread/?hl=%2Brandom+%2Bfabrication No action for a while though

Nah you can adjust by adding the appropriate resistor. Unless you have a -ve vs +ve slope. Then it gets a bit tough. If you have access to a decade box or variable resistor and a cheap multi meter you can draw up a table of resistance vs sender position and gauge position.

Lets go spend some time tuning your car Ned! Get that fuel economy hhhnnnnngggggggg

Massive horn speaker Tick it up Lush previa

Nice. Very nice.

2016-03-08_07-44-31 by sheepers, on Flickr

use a 90's microtec

An old microsquirt. Cam wants it back though so we're gonna have a look at my hardware again this weekend, but at this point it looks like I'm gonna stick a microsquirt chip on my hardware and try use that. I don't wanna use Fred's stuff anymore and I know microsquirt works... Pretty sure you're not supposed to do that, but I will likely look into using speeduino on my hardware after that

Engine bay shot.. As you can see, the rocker covers, air cleaner & alternator bracket are a lovely patina of pitted cheap chrome. Dislike the rocker covers especially though, so while I was wandering around the Puke swap meet last weekend I happened across these cool old Weiand one's. Unfortunately the seller would only sell them as a set with the "matching" air cleaner, but for just over a hundy I thought it was a good deal. Sanded the fins down to the alloy & cleaned them up a little bit then chucked them on. Nice improvement there I think

EFI all the way if you ask me. My car now returns 10L/100km and is only tuned for WOT for drag day, and a little bit of auto tune for part throttle, and super rich at idle and just off idle so plenty more gainz to be had... And that was towing the teardrop and 3 days worth of food and booze for 3 people as well as all the other gear I packed. I'm 100% on the EFI band wagon now that my starlet is converted... So much better already, and it's a pretty ahit setup still with a single throttle body and spark through the dizzy etc...

I might have a problem..... clearly not enough BMW's

Something Mexican by the looks of it.

That's a flash planter box. What veges do you plan to grow in it?

Basically all I have done so far is change out the diff fluid for some new LSX90, put some Redline HD Shockproof oil in the box as it was a bit noisy (this helped heaps) and oil change. I need to get a fuel sender for the Jaz cell as I currently have no idea how much I have in there and need to mount the wiper motor on the passenger side (normally up under the pedal box) so I can drive and see when raining! I have raised the front coilovers slightly as the roadtrip back from Whakatane was harsh as balls on the front as it kept bottoming out. Need to check level and see if the back needs to come up to suit. Wheels are quite big, main issue with changing wheels are the FD3s front brakes as the calipers are huge on them. Other than that, enjoy, do drags, track and cruise the hell out of it!

Cleaned up the rest of the plastics and got it looking like a complete scooter again! Am thinking of tearing it down in the somewhat distant future and giving it a quick paint job, need to find a new tail light and maybe some better condition plastics first -not to mention money and enthusiasm to spend hours sanding! Finished wiring up the LED lightbar, hooked it up on a swtich so it can only be turned on when the high beam is on. While it looks a little odd on the front, I think the trade off is going to be worth it Shits bright as fuck! My centre stand needs to have the mount plates remade, the guy who welded up my Stage 6 pipe is going to watercut some new plates and weld them on for me, we're going to lift the stand maybe 10mm at the same time so the bigger tyre doesn't touch the ground when it's up on the stand. Next mission is to tidy up this mess Have got a couple ideas for it, need to work in mounts for the CHT display and the volt meter.

still fucking around with the rocket cover. i welded it back up and its ready for paint i just got side tracked by the dizzy. so i took the dizzy cap off for probably the first time since ive owned it and it was a disaster area inside. like it had been full of sea water for the last 10 years. I took the dizzy out and attempted to take it apart. every screw broke the head off when i tried to undo them and the vacuum advance plate was locked solid. I eventually got the thing apart and to my surprise the mechanical advance mechanism seemed to be working fine. it was a but rusty on the mounting plate but ok apart from that. so anywho it took me ages to clean all the shit and rust out of the vacuum advance plate and get it free again. then i had to drill all the broken screws out and re-tap it all. thankfully both the diaphragms on the vacuum advance module were working fine and had no leaks. then i packed it all with grease, set the air gap and put it back together. I put it back in the motor and tried to get it to run and the timing (which I had marked and then put back in the same place) was out by miles. When I eventually got it to run it was advanced by about 50 degrees. Im really surprised it ran at all like that but it did. Had to go back two teeth on the drive cam to get the dizzy into a spot where it was close and had adjustment to move the housing around. Once I got it close and started trying to set the timing properly it behaved really erratically. It would be sweet at idle, then Id give it a little rev and the timing would wander around all over the place. It kept doing this and I got pissed off with it and revved the shit out of it. after id done that it settled down and worked as it should. Turned out id put so much grease into the mechanical advance mechanism that the weights weren’t returning properly. After id revved it and flung all the grease out a bit the weights could move freely and it worked perfectly. All good. So it was time for a road test, got to the end of my road and pulled half way out into the main road and it died. Turns out the fuel pump had shit itself. So, push it back in to the garage, figure out what had happened, chuck another pump in it and drive it round the block. HEAPS better. So after all the kerfuffle the dizzy is now good as new but I still haven’t painted the rocket cover.

Wife's father passed away and most of his tools "disappeared" what was left was pretty naffed and my wife isn't really the DIY type so I bought one of these for 12 from Kmart stripped it cut it in half And put an old hand drill to good use (missing handle and the chuck was naffed)

attached black things to car. i think it looks a million times better than it did. 2016-02-27_04-52-33 by sheepers, on Flickr then the fucking cam cover cracked when i was doing up the bolts so now i have to take it off and do the whole fucking thing again. 2016-02-27_04-52-25 by sheepers, on Flickr

but you made it

On to the power steering ram. I jacked the car up, grabbed the ram and surprisingly it rotated about 10 degrees... This was surprising as it basically needs to not rotate to function correctly, and sure enough the rotation translated into about 5 degrees of toe in/out. This could explain some of the wanderyness as the ram would push one way and have a certain toe, then push the other way and change the toe 5 deg. Shithouse. I removed the offending item; This is such a hilarious design, the ram is the tie rod between the wheels, it gets pushed directly by the steering box, and the end of the ram is connected to the chassis. The push from the steering box also moves a control piston in the ram so there is a fucking complicated joint in there to achieve this and get some adjustment. I dismantled it with some difficulty as the reason it was all moving was a wee pin that stopped the rotation had slogged itself out and had wedged itself in there. The fucked pin fits in this wee hole; Various innards; Shit was in basically pretty good nick, the o ring on the control piston was a bit poo and causing the ram to leak a bit so i replaced it as well as the two joint ball bearings. About this time I realised the the pin was the root problem anyway, it was wedging itself against the control piston and preventing it from moving freely when under pressure..... This is the offending pin; i turned down a cap screw to act as a pin, nutted it on and tacked it in place to make sure it stayed there.... Chucked it all back together checked it all worked and got yet another alignment The steering is now super effective, them Brits sure as fuck knew how to overpower steering feel with hydraulics.... Thats it for now.

So the very day the dirty old bitch got an alignment and i had decided some sweet summer cruising was in order the power steering decided to become a bit dog, working then not working etc. I decided the first thing I would look at was the pump as it needed some loving anyway, it was only being held on by 1 bolt when it needed three; That pump was a right cunt to get off, I had to remove the radiator to get to the lock tab on the pulley nut to remove the pulley cos the stupid fucking brits thought that the mount bracket needed to be nuclear bomb proof rather than just slot the fucker so you could just lift the pump out. The pump is a beautifully made bit of kit, although about 3kg worth for unknown english reasons. I am remembering why I fucking hate british vehicles and love boring Toyotas, that is 1/4" folded and welded steel plate; I have purchased the parts car shown in a previous post and went to Takaka to collect a few bits, but I stupidly forgot to take all the tools I needed to remove the pump off the parts car. My poor little truck was shitting its ring out coming back over the hill I must say, it was second gear most of the way up... a ton of steel on an 1800 townace ute will do that. Now, the innards of my pump were actually pretty immaculate once i stripped it, in fact they they looked like new, so I decided I could utilize my mediocre machining skillz to make a backing plate to attach more bolt holes, rather than waste an afternoon going back over the hill; Some time consuming blunt holesaw action; Turning the shit to the size of the spigot on the back of the broken mount Matching the plate hole positions to the existing hole and half holes, I tapped the new holes to match the half holes, I figured the half holes would do something then. Et voila! I wont be able to crank those bolts up hard cos it is only 6mm mild steel with the equivalent of an M10 going through it, but it will be heaps better than before. I put it all back together tonight, I gave the rad and the engine a bit of a flush before reassembly and used a slightly longer V belt on the pump drive as it was a bit short to get on and off easily. It has not fixed anything power steering wise but at least I know that the pump is ok now. So fucking stoked I got an alignment approx. 4 kms before need to pull the steering rack to fix it, top planning there dickhead. /end transmission

So this turned up at work today; I rang the dude who owns it a couple of days ago because of this; There is a complete parts car plus basically another cars worth of parts, engine tranny etc. The dude selling it wanted a bit much money (for what I actually need right now) even though it is maybe worth what he is asking. He is prepared to deliver it from Takaka, so yea probably worth it. However the brown car dude is happy to go halvsies in all that, and i have plenty of room to store it all, so we are basically land banking it. The car was a runner and got driven from blenheim before being partially dismantled. It looks pretty solid but has no reg. I may just flick it on as a project, depends if I can find what i need in the parts bins. That is all.

This is a story post, not a question or anything, keep your non constructive opinions about my crappy workmanship and setups to yourselves - yes you are a master machinist - i dont care. For years i have been frustrated at my lack of facilities to cut splines due to not having good access to a form grinder, so making and maintaining a hss form hob to spline axles has been in the too hard basket and i have mucked around with adaptor plates and trying to mishmash stuff to work around it. In a pinch the other day i decided to try contour milling a involute spline form with a 60deg threadmill. This worked amazingly well & i Decided to write a story about it. total investment: 1x Iscar 60 deg cutter. $60. (my only arbor is too long, you can hear it struggling in the video later on the case hardened steel) Plan of attack - one million little passes per spline. Microscopic view of resulting stress raisers. meh. overlay chart. looks fine. machine down celica axles outboard end outside dia and length. the reason the transition is not tapered at the stage is that it will be used as a clamping surface as you want to avoid using a center when splining so you can test fit your thing without taking it out, Mill and crummy little indexer setup, see last step. (axle doesnt fit inside indexer past chuck) keep your comments about my awesome stack of clamps to yourself. thats some deep case hardening . (end gets cleaned up in a later op) cutty cutty completed 30 mins later. some knowall threw the plates away for this indexer and was relying on the pin holes in the chuck mount. fark. i put an encoder on it at the 11th hour. next time i will just use a vice and encoder with no indexer. horay/even a broken clock etc. in car in summary, i was amazed how easy and cost effective this is after spending so long humming and harring about it. there is no reason you couldnt do this on a little tormach machine. (or if you were a real sicko on a turret/dro.) two things to note- one for the love of jeasus i cant get camera to focus and they look all weird, however they look sweet as and fit up mint - and two: the cam side pics arent involute correct, "magic of tv."

Mate, I brought a couple of HSS cutters from off TM. I had familiarized myself with Diametrical Pitch's ummmm lingo and stuff and read that DP24 was the DP used by most (all) of the OEM's who's axles I sought to cut new splines into. I learned my first lesson about HSS vs Induction hardened hard shit. You mentioned this above, lol! Where the fuck were you sentra when I was cutting my teeth into this new venture? So after finding out how much the tool resharpening pricks wanted to redo my cutters - it was onto the net to see what others were doing who did resplining on a more regular basis. I saw a commercially available indexable one that was cost prohibitive to me but sowed the seed to make me my own. I think I cut this one out of some 12mm plate or something. It might be 10 - dunno. Turned up a collar thingy and pressed/welded them together. Trued it up in the lathe and beveled the edges to 90 degree's included. I drew it up in TurboCAD (don't laugh - I love it and I am self taught to do cool 2D shit) and cut it out on the table. Had to do all of this twice because I was not as good as I thought i was. Fucked it up the first time but the second time round I stopped at the point i fucked it up and paid a machine shop to complete it. They indexed the tungsten cutter pockets/seats and cut the internal keyway in the collar. They got 3 of the cutters spot on but one of them stands a thou or 2 proud of the others. I have marked this one and use it to touch off. Judicious use of DTI and adherence to my own established procedures has seen me do quite a few axles for cunts. I have a biggish (for home use) old Horizontal Mill dedicated/setup to do just axles. They are worth nothing more than scrap value in today's market thanks to CNC. I fucking love them, the big old grunters, lol. That's my story bro.. My name is axle ... Bigblockpoweredstickcarsthatdontshine

thought this was clever. mount to fit a 4age into a starlet, original one was a bit of an abortion, the guy had another go at it, drew it up on cad or whatever, 3d printed it to try it out, then gave it to someone to cast in alloy.

Nothing on the engine? I know a bloke with a Mk1 with a beams and he keeps killing it due to oiling issues. Are these the issues you were reading about? I think it's the angle of his engine and the sump layout but it's been to clever chaps and keeps being a PITA.

Kelvin P2R From this: To This: