Yowzer

Yeah my thoughts exactly (re: Tom's post). I've personally never seen a "small" engine cook the oil from a bearing failure, generally because it either makes so much noise, locks up or spits the rod before it gets a good glow on. If that is what happened though, or any failure that results in overheated oil, I think it's pretty safe to say it's an anchor.

That's a very unusual story. How would you overheat the oil without over heating the water? If there wasn't enough water in it the temperature gauge wouldn't have changed, I had that happen to an engine once when it blew a hose. If it has been proper hot then things could have warped a bit. Bores may not be round anymore. Might just be worth ditching this one and slapping the turbo gear on that other engine.

Yah do that. Something like Rostoff or Nutcracker would be better if you can get hold of it, but otherwise anything to hopefully lube up the bores a bit.

If the belts are tight enough (although I'm guessing they're shit) the engine should be easy enough to spin without the glow plugs that you should be able to wind it around from the alternator or other easily accessible item.

Nah m9, 3" or go home If it's unnecessary, you haven't wound the boost up enough.

We get Hilux's and Bounty's in at work all the time with them failed, it's amazing how happily they lock the rears with even the lightest of brake pressure. Scary as fuck in the wet haha

That guy has no understanding of electricity and needs to be told so.

Falken I think was the only brand that listed a wider option of rim to tyre size, that I know of.

The manufacturer should have the fitment guides on their websites, but almost all of them are the same as this https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_01-2009_V2_Tyre_Size_to_Wheel_Size_Compatibility_Guide.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwjcgLGKk5ngAhWEF3IKHcVOCTEQFjAAegQIAxAB&usg=AOvVaw0bhxGjpju2v9ai_V7Gf3p8

Amazing that you can read 0.1 lamda resolution on the fly from a spark plug

Yup 3” from churbro to bumper. Helps the fucker spin up faster too

You won't have any EGT issues with a stock engine. Flush / recore the radiator, flush the block, replace the viscose fan hub and you'll be mint. And if it has EGR, blank that shit off.

No adjustments at the pedal end? There should definitely be some free play there

Is there any free play on the clutch fork? Sounds like it's already pressing against the pressure plate for some reason. Wrong slave cylinder perhaps?

1300cc turbo?

At the end of the day It's gonna be a lot better than the factory lump and you'll be able to sit on 100kph no worries You could convert it to EFI as well if you really wanted, but considering the vehicle it's in a DGAV will be more than adequate

A cam'd up 18R on a column change G52 in a ??? Sounds good so far

An 18R-G sounds like it'd suite your requirements too, but they're a bit hard to come by nowadays.

Except a 7K is a garbage engine option

Close but not quite. Toyota has their engine series, and then their box series. The G series box (what you're looking at) is their commercial spec units for vans, utes etc. The W series boxes are their larger RWD boxes for cars like the older Supras, Cressidas etc often mounted to various I6 engines but sometimes smaller 4cyl and diesels too. Bellhousings are interchangeable between most of these boxes, however you'll still need the correct bellhousing to suit the engine, so at this point you'll have a L to G/W bellhousing (L series engine, G series box). If you want to use a 3SGE for example, you'll need the S-G/W bellhousing, possibly from an older Celica /Carina (if they had W boxes, I can't recall what they ran) or from those funny 5S powered vans. Some engines, like the A series (4AGE etc) were never coupled to these boxes so factory bellhousings don't exist to suit, however there are aftermarket options available I think.

Nothing other than the L series diesel will bolt up without changing the bell housing to suit. The G and W series boxes have the same bellhousing pattern, which opens your options up to various petrol engines (the larger ones anyway) but you'll still need the correct bellhousing to suit your engine of choice

Sure does, they heat, squish, and cool.

Measure the distance between coils with the weight on them to get an idea of how many to lop off, then a 1/4 coil at a time until it's almost where you want, then fine tune. Then sort some shorter shocks to keep it all captive. 50mm would be about 1.5 - 2 coils on the front, probably 1 coil on the rear at a top-of-the-head guess

Why? Cut is legit. My Cressida is rolling cuts and it rides bloody good. Otherwise you can get some custom springs made up if you really want to.

Cut them like a real man The same goes for leaf springs and torsion bars