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It actually would be a bit of fun to make it a dedicated drag car. But then it's the same old problem, need to trailer it everywhere and it just sits around for 99.999% of its existence. Also

I kindof lied about being finished, there always seems to be shit to sort out that I have forgotten about. Some of the reason I am still hanging on to the wee Townace is that it is awesome for transporting dirt and bark etc. So obviously I needed this functionality on the big truck. I decided to recess the side trailer hitches so they don't get wiped off. I got some treated rough sawn pine for the fill; Doesn't look too shabby.. I will get those coated at some point, along with the tow hitch, top rack and front bumper, these are all just black zinc right now. That will be later as it will no doubt be spendy.

So I thought I'd have a peak under the skirt on the worst of the panels. Not too bad and I have certainly seen worse. Looks to me like a new patch was welded in and then the bog was applied over the bare metal and left for a period of time for moisture to get in. Should be an easy fix and no welding in this corner thankfully.

Now I am making real progress! I had all of the gasket faces on the manifolds machined flat because everything had distorted just a little through all the welding processes. I installed all of the fittings and hardware on the inlet manifold including a backfire valve (just in case). Made up some gaskets and installed the manifold and the supercharger on the engine for good this time.

Picked it up Sunday evening, leaving it for a week in the garage for the paint to go hard before I start fitting parts back on it

I don't often remember my dreams when I wake up. But last night was a good one. It was the east cape ride. My GT50 was running like shit and I'd been fucking about with my gopro, so I was late to the lunch stop. When I finally got there, @HighLUX had shot a deer and was cooking it over an open fire on the side of the road. For some reason it tasted fucking awful. Weird dream, but its got me pumped for this November

This followed me home. It's a 1965 mk1 and reasonably stock. Plan will be to get it back onto the road and then upgrade bits and bobs here and there until the engine kicks a leg out of bed and then see how I feel.

after @Raizer pointed out that the cert man will want plates ontop of the floor as sandwich for the driveshaft loops I changed both front and rear ... and then got the rear part of the carpet down for good. then I moved my attention to the fuse box.... I had already got shot of the factory one when I reworked all the wiring .. I also had moved the wiring around a few time and blown some and while I was changing them I couldn't help buy notice that the wire in the back were becoming lose and sometimes getting pushed out all together and I can't be fucked with that. so I bought one for a boat/race car. way more sturdy and even has LED to let you know what one is blown... also easy to add wires when needed. so I mad a panel for it.....and finally hot the front section of carpet in for good. and the fuse panel you can see in the center under the dash.......and my miss 11 calls the Flux capacitor

I really wasnt feeling the tiny side stand and it was pretty pointless to be honest. So I opted for the centre stand. With it being lowered quite a bit it lifted the rear wheel so far off the ground it became unstable. I cut off 25mm from the bottom and made new pads from some 25mm shs. I purchased a chaly big bore exhaust from mbike, its for a standard chaly so the rear mount doesnt meet up due to the bigger engine. Other than that it looks pretty sweet. To stop the centre stand from hitting the swing arm and the chain i whipped up a small stainless bracket with a rubber stop and bolted it to where the passenger pegs would go. I tried the kickstarter from my C50 to see what the fitment would be and it was touching just by millimeters. I didnt want it scratching my new exhaust everytime I kicked it over so I managed to get an old c50 kickstarter from my mate Jeremy, pie cut it and bent it forward and tig welded it up with stainless rod. Plenty of clearance now!

I found out the issue with the wideband readings being wrong by heaps. Originally I bought the Spartan 3 wideband from 14point7, and this uses ONLY the LSU-ADV sensor. However canbus didnt work on it, so I got a replacement sent under warranty. The replacement controller was the new version - which can run the LSU-ADV sensor, or, the LSU-4.9 sensor. As they share the same plug. cool right? Except I wasnt aware that it could run both sensors - The replacement was set by default to the 4.9 sensor. D'oh! The calibrations are wildly different between them. The further you go from stoich the worse it gets. I adjusted the controller to the right sensor today, and instantly the lambda values that I was seeing went from 13.9ish down to 12.8ish which is what we tuned for with the tailpipe wideband on the dyno. So thats good, and I'm glad this mistake wasnt the other way around, or it would have run dangerously lean and probably blown itself up. As a side effect of this, all of my VE values are looking more sensible now. Getting a peak VE value of just under 98% at 7500rpm. Here's a visualization of estimated airflow through the motor, with the colour scale being throttle position. Notice how up until about 4250rpm, right down to nearly 50% throttle it's same airflow. Then at low rpm some part throttle areas are flowing more air than full throttle - thought this was weird, but then noticed that on the dyno runs we'd adjusted some full throttle VVTI values, but not reduced them at the part throttle segments too. So I reduced these down so it'll be max at full throttle instead. My next hope of getting anywhere is the nightspeed drag wars in about 2 weeks time. Will have to see if it can go ahead with current restrictions. Today was my birthday so I celebrated by going on some backroad hoons to Waihi Beach for a swim. Was glorious on both counts!

A few pics from drags, just in case your eyes havent been punished enough already

Turns out I only have 3 photos of this on my phone and this is from 2015, but anyway this is my 87 Nissan president Have done a few bits and pieces on it in the time I've had it, and generally it's been pretty unreliable, the latest problem it's got is running issues so a haltech 550 and wiring kit has turned up for it now. Fun fact- I don't know what I'm doing. Next step I guess is to gather some electrical bits like plugs idle control valve and some sensors of some sort. Going to try and follow to a degree what skid factory did on YouTube, looks easy on the internet, what could possibly go wrong?

Guess we'll sort the boys from the men on this trip then

I have some 15inch Wedssport TC's that weigh 2/3rds of 5/8ths of fuck all if you want to run them on the rear? These ones:

Then it was onto actually fitting stuff - hopefully for the last time. Diff head was treated to new bearings and an LSD. New oversized axles and new bearings fitted. New brake hardware and new shoes fitted after stripping and tidying up the cylinders. Test fit shininess.

Looks better I think. Quite a lot lighter and sounds good, about where I wanted it, not obnoxiously noisy but enough to be able to hear it Start Finish Was pretty straight forward to fit, bolts on apart from the mount brackets, I made 2 aluminium brackets to attach it to the bike and job done Am just waiting on some small indicators to arrive then I can get rid of that ugly bit at the back

A few more jobs ticked off on the chaly over the past few days. A big hurdle was the wiring as I'm pretty shit at it but getting better, with the help of my dad we got there. I had to cut down the side stand considerably, the footpegs will be changed for Anderson style pegs I had to put an adjuster on the clutch lever as I've routed the cable through the frame and can't access the inline adjuster. New chain, rear sprocket and chain adjusters mounted too. @dvsdev.chaly on Instagram 3d printed me a fuel tap handle which is awesome

Porika is fine, if old mate is crying about it in a CT he must be a pretty new rider. The first time I did it Blinky bill did it on a CB350four, hayhole on a gn250 with road tyres. Mitch did it on a BMW r80 road bike on our brass monkey trip in winter and it was a walk in the park on my 200kg africa twin with 40kg of luggage. My father in law rides it both ways with the cook on the back of his africa twin. Mangatapu is far more technical than porika

Got some liquid gold today Strangly enough with the correct type and volume of fluid things work much better. It was two litres low, shudder is gonw now, it still surges a bit but I'll ignore that until it gets worse. Changed the atf in the orthia while I was on a roll

Sounds legit to me

So as expected the spark plug change fixed the hard starting issue. There is still some hesitation on the throttle which is down to one of a few things in my mind. Either the choke needs to be connected (I haven't really driven it that far but it does seem to get better the more it drives), there is a blockage in the carb, or the car just needs to stretch it's legs and blow off some cobwebs. In prepping for a pre-wof I found a light out (you can see it in the first pic of this thread) so raided my stash and went around the car putting in new lights. I changed my s-type bulbs to LED and had a few left over so changed the dash globes for them. Talk about a difference! I still need new gauges however so I'll sort out the dash properly when I get a chance. The fake radiator grill comes off this week so I'll likely get started on prepping for a quick and nasty paint job then. Hmmm pics aren't working so I'll put them up when it works for me.

enter here: https://www.emailmeform.com/builder/form/pIdgamPB4En6388S?fbclid=IwAR1zInCTCA8XtPSJYGk4tffYkUTZuSuSdocE1pm_N6dLLAkx_bdyFUEjAps

Yeah they are an interesting machine these twin table vertical's. Since you are working from the side window for setups they are a bit ergonomically inconvenient for job shopping/prototyping, but at the same time you don't get the advantages that a twin pallet horizontal does (a tombstone with lots more surface for parts and good chip clearance). The 15k rpm spindle only goes down to 150rpm, and looses a bit of torque down low, so you have to focus your machining strategy towards high speed/constant engagement tool paths. I think that's why this machine didn't have a lot of interest and went for what I thought was a good price and because of that I'm willing to put up with the inconvenience and extra floor space vs a standard BT30 machine. For reference it went for a more than a new Shapeoko and much less than a starter package Tormach 440, so if you have the power and space buying a used industrial machine will get you a bunch more than a hobby grade machine. You may have to put up with Fanuc... but once you get over that you're golden. In terms of my plans, I'm an engineering consultant and I felt that it might be nice to have a bit of capacity to do odd jobs for clients (so no need to keep the spindle busy). I have a bit of background in machining from years ago, so its something I'd like to be able to do again because I really enjoyed it. Sometimes I have errant dreams of completely transitioning out of being a consultant to making parts (I probably incorrectly feel that will be lower stress), so this is kind of a way to test out the market/feasibility/enjoy-ability of that as a revenue stream.

Ac doesn't work in the accord and the beagle has a intermettent miss/still is leaking oil. I was trawling marketplace for a manual crv to pillage for parts and saw something tempting. The guy was hard to deal with and a bit abrupt/rude. We took it for a spin around the block, tired a lowball and he didn't accept it. We counted out the cash and he kept ignoring us. His kid came up to us and was like "excuse me are you going to buy the car or not" umm yes we aren't standing here with cash for no reason Ticks all my boxes, cheap uncommon, awd high km, ex damaged auction. Had typical cvt shudder but I'll service it and ignore it. Lisa loves it and has claimed it, she wanted something tall and small ish so it Ticks those boxes too

Longboi, not much room in the booth left

please put your shed build into the shed building thread, i for one would be keen to see what/how you built it.

Last night at Nightspeed. Suuuper busy, but it was really awesome to see a big crowd at the drags, lots of spectators too. Was a cool atmosphere. So first run, set the hoosiers to around 20psi which is very high, but wanted to start out conservative. Ran a 14.092 @ 100.21 mph with a 2.33 60ft. So first run and I've beaten the Carina by every single metric. What the hell! But so stoked! I was convinced at this point that I'd get a 13 tonight. Second run we dropped the pressures a bit, launch wasnt so good and I ran a 14.1 with a higher 60ft. At this point I figured I'd probably cursed myself saying I'll get a 13. Looking at the logs of both runs, the motor was bogging a bit when I was trying to roll into the throttle and clutch. So third run, set a launch limiter at 5500rpm. Full throttle sitting on line, dump the clutch. And holy fucken shit. No wheel hop no big spinning, just felt like stretching out and releasing a rubber band. It felt so much faster than my first run, I crossed the line realizing it must be a 13. Absolutely fucking stoked beyond belief Get my time slip and was blown away 13.83 @ 99.6 mph with a 2.1 60ft Was in about 5000 out of 100 fizz mode, it was so cool. I didnt get any more runs, because it was incredibly busy and was already 10.30pm or so by the time they started the eliminations. But it's incredible to think that it could still possibly go faster yet. Even just doing that time was incredible. It felt like it could have easily launched another 500rpm or 1000rpm higher and hooked up good. Will be back!

Well its been awhile since I've posted on old school. Since my last thread with the Chevy camper van build up we've moved back into NZ, bought a mini lifestyle block in Taupo and put a house and shop on it, we've also spent way too much time working. I've gotten quite good at Barry tasks like lawn mowing and fixing fences, so no car projects as boring things have taken over my life now. We've also gotten a dog! Anyways this one is another (off) white Chevy, a 2005, which is a bit too new and full of computer fandangles to be considered Old School but I figured you guys might appreciate it anyways. So long story short, I was watching a listing on TradeMe but not really seriously thinking about buying a project, and it ended on the 30th of December, which is really a stupid time to end an auction. I got a fixed price offer that morning while I was driving up to see Mr. Jackson in Waiuku for New Years shenanigans (I don't know your internet name, damn I'm a shite friend). When I arrived him and @Testament gave me a quick pep talk/beer and we left for Auckland to go have a look at it. It was good for what it was and I was able to work out a deal for even less than the fixed price because the owners wanted it gone. Anyways it arrived yesterday, since it took a bit of time to organize transport. She's big, weighing 3.7 tons and it just fits in the shed doors. A used but running 2005 Chevalier FTC-1320V! So for those who aren't familiar with this model, its a twin table vertical machining center, 15,000RPM, 3.7kW with a 16 tool ATC. This might be a bit of a slow thread as I collect parts, get the air system in the shop running so its on you guys to keep me motivated. PS I just epoxied the floors, my shop isn't usually this clean...everything is pushed down the other end, and then I'll put it all back and paint the last bay this weekend. The stuff from Regis Coatings in Christchurch turned out really good (Epotread 1000). We'll see how it holds up long term. Also if there is interest I could do a shop spam thread.

theres a sticker guy down here with a brand you might enjoy https://lmtbrk.com/

I've always just done my bumpers in black zinc. If it gets scratched off by scrub or tree branches just touch it up. Can't touch up powder coat. And unless you zinc or galv under the pc if it gets a scratch through the water gets under and it rusts and lifts off.

A Volvo 2 speed fan might just fit, they flow a ton of air even on the low setting. Internet says the fan outer ring is 17.5". I got one out of a 90's model, can't remember which but they were in a few. They can draw some amps though, had to make sure my alt v-belt was on spec or it would slip when the fan came on.

Did it last year on a gn250. will be on an xr125 this year. trying to get ol mate George on his ct125 hunter to come along. writes for bike rider magazine, might get an article out of it.

Bit of spam here, I just checked my 14.0 run in my civic vs your slower 14.0 some of the numbers are insanely close.. This is my stock b18cr with 3rd,4th,5th short gearset in a 990kg ek civic.

How many holes can we drill in this?

Carbon fibre picnic blanket on parcel tray and lightweight straw hat?

Caught up on this thread again. Theres so much tech stuff/graphs etc that I only read it when my brain is running at full steam. Probably a different torque curve, but I've been 14.1 with 126hp in a car of a similar weight. (How much does yours weigh?) I'd estimate mine was around 840kgs excluding my fat arse. My quicker times saw a drop from 2.2 to 2.xxx seconds in the 60ft. (With sticky drag rubber, in fact once they were staged the motor couldnt spin them. Lol) My only suggestion is you need to fit an "I love lawn bowls" sticker.

I'll try and book it in for a pre wof inspection and let that dictate the project. Hopefully not too much as I have a shedload of work to do on the Chev this year. There is some rust in the wings of the Imp which hopefully isn't all bog and it is in desperate need of a repaint. I'll probably keep it green but just a little more subtle. It does have a hard starting issue which after pulling a plug seems a likely culprit. Hopefully an easy fix. There is a little hesitation issue when I put my foot down I'm hoping is related to the plugs but I'll soon find out when I do the switcharoo. Might do a compression test at the same time. Being an imp I won't take it on any decent drives on a warm day until I have a temp gauge installed. I'm also going to give Silverdale radiators a buzz this week for an auxiliary front radiator as it already has the plumbing in place. One of the worst jobs I have ever done on any car was feeding those through the body so might as well make the most of it.

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Epoxied, seam sealed and Raptor'd underneath. Over the moon to have hit this milestone after so much welding!

Right after my last post I had an op to repair my ACL and knee cartilage so I wasn't able to do anything for a while - add to that a lockdown - so by the time I was able to get into it again, I couldn't get the repair certifier to sign off on the work so it just sat there taunting me for months......until now She's fully seam sealed along where the new floor and roof went on, and a few of the other new patch panels. Once it's cured I'll go over the it with the underseal again and get her off the spit.

Once again, a while between updates but progress has been made. I set about building the lay shaft carrier assembly to replace my plywood mock-up and made the drive belt tensioner assembly. I very intentionally over engineered this stuff because I don’t want it to flex and kick the belts off randomly. Still got to get a steel shaft made up with keyways machined in it. It’s a bit of a creative way to drive the little blower but it looks like the belt drive system will all line up nicely and should be plenty noisy when running……….

Few more pics of putting it back together. I’m now a master at brake pipes after a few stuff ups

@JustHarry I usually go with rectangular box section 3mm plus wall thickness. I would avoid the riser you have to hold the hitch. I preferred a piece of 75x10 drilled and tapped with m10 threads and bolted with capped screws. I also avoid welding across the top of the drawbar to the front of the trailer deck as I have been told it leads to cracking. *how I have done them in the past.*

Sooooo. There was an actual leak, but it wasn't the turbo feed, it was the new turbo drain where I had welded it into the sump. This is irritating as I was particularly careful when I did it, I MIG'd it then went over it with the TIG to be sure. Not sure enough I guess. I was prepping to drop the sump and have at it when that evil bastart @yoeddynz convinced me to try some JB weld, even if temporarily. He told me that most of his goldwing engine was actually JB weld, cunningly disguised as aluminium... So I went for it and much to my disappointment it actually worked and now there are no leaks. When it's time to do an oil change I will *probably* drop the sump and sort it then, but in the meantime I guess it will do. A pic of my shame....

Spent another couple hours trying to tidy up the front end. Look heaps better but it really still needs someone to do it properly, well really it needs a new paint job but oh well. Tidier for the time being. Also picking up some wheels nuts tomorrow for this so will get the wheels on if I get a sec.

It’s got a bit of a cakel to it now, I put castrol edge 25w50 oil and went for a drive

second event for the year smacked out on the weekend. This time a short 2km there and back shootout sprint similar in style to the ashley forest rally sprint. I was a bit hazed after 2 weeks of drinking baiju / soju in china / korea on a business trip so didnt think i would preform well, that all soon disappeared after a coffee and a redbull. I took the first run pretty casually and then started feeding it. the official results aren't out yet but looking at them on the end of the day I was fastes (only) A class car, i beat all B class (0-1600) cars other than a motorbike engined hillman imp. Which i was pretty stoked with as there was a very flash starlet with a 1300cc 2age and some pretty serious suspension mods (equal length 3 link with watts link, motor set right back into firewall etc. I was 3rd overall 2wd behind the imp and Peter in his BMW. I even managed to beat 2 imprezas. All because of the road really, the starlet loves tight twisty shit being light and short wheelbase, and with my 5.1 final drive it just loves second gear stuff and puts the power down really well, once to get to more open 3rd - 4th gear roads i drops right back in the pack. Anyway here's a video and some choice photos from Jeff wells and Gayle.