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Spencer last won the day on November 7 2019

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About Spencer

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    Spiro Poppadopolos
  • Birthday 01/01/1869

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  1. K24! Looks like a ballache unless you have a LHD Miata though.
  2. Yeah if you get one off a v8 car with the flex plate and converter then you are good. The only tricky part I guess is setting up the cable correctly on your carb or throttle-body but there are lots of kits for that on summit etc. Pulled one out of a V8 VN and bolted it up to a 350 all good.
  3. Then it will just break when you pull it off next time. Drill them holes.
  4. I had a alloy pulley set on my old accord euro k24, no issues. They are widely used. Don't have one on current car but would love to test it out. I do not think these crank pulleys are actually a engine saving dampener on a internally balanced 4 cyl engine (this is a old debate on the internet). You could get various older hondas with solid pulleys stock, B16a etc. The video above is a advertisement to buy a pulley. Below video is the reverse advertisement I guess.
  5. There are pretty cheap alloy underdrive crank pulleys for K-series out there either china or more legit ones from USA. Might be something to look into if the alternator rev problem is a thing to be worried about, shave some rotating weight at the same time. Love the build also, forum needs more K-series.
  6. Best bet is to get some 2 part epoxy primer and paint it. Brush it on if you have to.
  7. Spencer


    80's povo toyotas generally is all lacquer or lacquer/enamel type shit. It hardly ever happens but the story is (and on data sheets usually) if the OG paint is 1k solvent cured stuff then you seal it with a coat of sealing primer (which is epoxy) before you 2K urethane on top due to possible reactions. Again usually shit just goes on top of other shit fine but the epoxy gives you delineation between any old lacquer and/or body work and the new shit. The 80's and earlier lacquer looks correct on these old things, it looks "thin" and just looks correct. Then you put single stage 2K urethane white on there and it looks "thick" like its plastic coated. I cannot word it well and just my opinion, but its just something to consider/check out.
  8. Spencer


    If its old as in 80's or older then it will be lacquer, I wouldn't go straight to 2K top coat or urethane primer as above. Would want epoxy primer on there, its not ideal but you can block on epoxy primer and top coat straight on it as per the sheepers method. Use protec 408 have to just take of the waxy top layer then it blocks down pretty good. So you get sealing and blocking in one step with basically the cheapest good epoxy taht exists, then do single stage white 2k on top. Probably as cheap as you can get while still using decent paint. Only thing with single stage 2k urethane on old cars is it looks super plastic spec and makes older stuff look like a fridge or something. Hard to explain but I'm not a big fan of straight colour urethanes and would go base + clear all day on my own shit.
  9. Spencer


    Also for repainting a car with 2k, you want a epoxy primer layer between the old paint and the new. Almost any will do but they have all sorts of different properties some sand better than others etc. Some are labelled as a sealer primer for this very use case. How do you think you will get away with out blocking it down? that is asking for a shit outcome. I would do a test in the boot or something and make sure the epoxy sits on the existing paint good (which 99.9% chance it will). Then I would do urethane 2k primer as it is the easiest to sand and block on, then top coat. Like 100% when you block it you will see all the stone chips and low/high spots and they will need filler and attention, will look like shit with just primer and topcoat no blocking or sanding at all.
  10. Spencer


    You can get away with two wet coats of clear 2k urethane. But 5 coats is fine, I would put shit load on a car I was keeping for ages so I had heaps to work with when correcting defects/scratches etc in the future. Premium car brands generally have much thicker paint with heaps of clear, its a good thing to have more to work with in the future. It can be hard to spray as said above need to put it on pretty thick and cannot see it. IMO its safer to spray it a little thinner with more coats and deal with the orange peel later than try get that glass finish that you can get when everything is dialed in perfect.
  11. Yup I used the KBS dark grey header paint. Stayed good for the 5 years I had the car.
  12. Spencer


    You can do a test patch/panel if worried. Its not the end of the world it happens that clear goes on in two separate coats due to errors or some fancy places like to block down the clear and apply more after. Generally its keyed with rough scotch-brite or say 800 grit.
  13. There is a video of that running, it is the real deal, there is another vid of it at idle and it moves though the range super quicl. AS KPR said on normal engines you need a big sweep so packaging, control, friction etc etc are all pretty decent engineering problems. That F1 solution earlier is super slick but only moves like 2 inches I guess due to the RPM and small operating range of the engine etc. 2 step design seems much easier, there are a lots of examples from manufactures. Thread hijack but hey.