Spencer

All part of the R&D process, this shit happens even on the well trodden path of engine building. Need a couple spare engines in the shed right?

The ones they come with at Bunnings are what you want. If it’s just epoxy primer it’s not going to murder you, just use the 3m mask and supplied filters and you are good. 2k urethane you want to go to the next level and cover your skin and eyes best you can.

Alright lock in a SB2 swap for 2030.

Awesome dude, I'll co-pilot for sick week 2030.

Engine sounds like its on track to make good v6 noises which is great news. Cant wait for the Blog about this and instagram posts "He put a hilux engine in his Corona, you should rage post below about how your gay engine is better"

Its a shame because this is the closest that OS ever got to having a BTCC car project.

Going to be tough to find one in NZ, I think the arse end panels are wagon specific so to find a rust free wagon in NZ being chopped up would be nearly impossible? All the 50 series I have seen in NZ had rust and I only ever knew of one wagon getting around (although I am sure there are a few more) Someone with some metal skills could make that up no problem.

The modern v8 motor of the moment in street car drag racing is the Ford Coyote DOHC v8. There has been lots of development from these guys racing them, but they spin them to 10k RPM and 3000hp on stock ford block and heads which is insane. This guys car is pretty famous in the extreme/outlaw street classes (which are like 3/4 of the way to a pro-mod but steel bodies and street car bits like coolant and headlights). Older video but this thing has gone 6.20's, its amazing, it won like everything last year.

The normal behavior for expoy primer is about 20-30min pot life at like 22 degrees (sets faster when its warmer), so you have that long of it being spreadable from the pot. It will start setting up very fast on the panel so you cannot play around with it just get it on, that is why brushing is shit house but it works. I have done it on rust panels when I had some reason why I couldn't get the gun out, it will have brush strokes in the finish and need to be sanded back for sure. If you really need to mix the 4L tin up you can get a little paddle that goes on a drill but like 10min of elbow grease should do it. For a air compressor the max you can run on a 10A socket is about 3hp, then in that class of 3hp some are more efficient and have better designs than others but most 3hp compressors will be fine. If you have a 15A plug then you can get 3.5-4hp ones but the price goes up. More air the better, look at one of those china guns posted above I use mine ona 3hp and its mint with the paint and the air turned down.

You want clean "white" metal for best adhesion, its a cunt of a job on complex panels like under cars etc so, if you have more money than time get it sand blasted and they will epoxy prime it for you. It will save you like 100 hours of messy work. Or if you have the air power then a ghetto sand blasting setup outside can be awesome. So yeah strip discs, wire wheels, chemical paint stripper, DA sander, detail sander etc are all tools in the toolbox to get paint off and metal clean. Usually they all leave a residue on the panel (i guess apart from sand blasting and sanding) that wont come off with prepsol, wire wheels leave the metal a gray colour and that shit never comes off unless you scrub it (paint don't stick to that wire wheel finish at all), I usually finish complex/annoying panels with the green scotch brite pad (whatever the harshest one is depends on the brand) get a big roll from the paint shop as you use 1 million of the stuff. I use a spray bottle of prepsol/solvent and polish the fuck out of the panel until its white, if its a big flat panel you can polish it up clean and white with the DA sander easy as just dont go crazy and get it overly hot. For rust pits get rid of it with acid wash, buy some phosphoric acid from bunnings "ranex" you can dilute it for soaking or use neat as spot treatments read the box, wash with water then polish it up as above as it leaves the metal gray and dull (bad for adhesion). As some discussed above there are more modern enzyme rust eaters around but old barry spec I get the acid out it works fast if you use the phosporic (you have to keep it wet to work so using a weaker acid like vinegar takes ages and lots off applications). Oh and try not to use the acid around body seams as it goes in there and never comes out (and keeps eating the metal whenever it gets moisture), people also freak out about washing a bare panel with water, if you wipe it down with prepsol after (you need to polish/sand it white anyway) its fine it will only flash rust if you wash it off and then leave it around.

OK quickly typed burb of text... The concept stuff would be fine, I would try find some protec epoxy primer specifically epotec 408 (called PPG epotec now as bought by them like 8 years ago) just because a bunch of us have used it and I can vouch for it. The concept stuff is basically the cheapest brand, I have heard mixed results from the base and colour system they have so I would not use it. But its probably 100% fine. There are so many brands of paint and different systems, its never ending. So like a old barry I just use what I know, apart form clear coats I fuck around and try different ones in that department. Epoxy primer on metal, then 2K urethane (base+clear or single stage colour) on top is fine for engine bays, under cars, inner guards, interior floors etc. 2 part high build is urethane primer and sands 100x nicer than Epoxy, you use it to block down panels before applying your exterior top fancy finished coats, I only use it on exterior panels generally unless you were going show car spec on your engine bay. My favorite for engine bays etc is to wet on wet apply epoxy then a industrial spec black gloss 2K single stage urethane (because cheap and tough). You can paint 2 coats of epoxy, then after its set up wet coat the 2K colour straight on top, no in-between waiting or sanding stage you go from bare panel to painted in one go. This only goes to shit if your paint system doesn't work this way or if you do not wait enough time (it will wrinkle up) I can vouch that the protec epoxy and 2k top coats all work fine this way even though its not in the tech sheets. Don't have any advise on under-seal being thrown in the mix, most people just do epoxy and colour under the car if they are going for under car colour. I would just do the industrial 2K black as per above as underseal is kinda gay.

Awesome dude, this is great. I have dreams of building a drag and drive car as the next deal for me, the street car rules here are gay (for cages etc) but keen on some turbo big block goodness in my life.

Just came here to say you are insane if you swap out the big block, the 390 is so good.

Yeah I thought it was on that guns description page but you have to go to another R500 listings.

Hey dude. I have one of these, works good but I am only doing base and clear fix ups with them at the moment no resto stuff. You might want something else or a set of tips for primer. This R500 is the common one on the HVLP youtube vids, its not a real "HVLP" or whatever that means, but its a Iwata clone that does use a bit less air than other cheap shit. Should be fine on 2.75hp, turn the paint down and run less pressure, works best that way for me (less overspray, less air use, tradeoff its slower). Think I got this rather than the genuine rongpeng as it had free shipping, there are like 20 versions of it. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005767569627.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.65.3b441802SWe4lY I got one of these adapters https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005411806645.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.69.3b441802SWe4lY and these cups https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005663483568.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.70.3b441802SWe4lY