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Spencer last won the day on July 10 2017

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About Spencer

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    Spiro Poppadopolos
  • Birthday 01/01/1869

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  1. ^ this is the only way. Find your Protec supplier and use 408 epoxy. Protec also do cheap black industrial spec 2K urethane top coats which are great for this kinda thing.
  2. I would scotch brite it with wax and grease at a minimum, see what happens. Or spray a patch then sand it back to test.
  3. The test is when you sand it back, have had epoxy stick not so well to a bunch of things when you start sanding. When block sanding you will go through your epoxy and/or high build primer and that is the real test, if you have some shit adhesion at the base layer (like some shit single stage rust primer or badly prepped steel) the edges don't feather and things come off in little clumps leaving sharp edges, just making more work by needing filler etc to fix it. Then in the back of your mind for the next 10 years that your paint job is stuck on real shit. You get away with it on internal fix ups where you just poo it on and walk away, it sticks so well to itself that it doesn't go anywhere.
  4. Just bail on it, don't need to mess with no 10 year old car throwing codes. Unless the code is a feature and you are getting it cheap because of something you know how to fix.
  5. Spencer


    No idea man, I had to google it. Most paint companies have those general use acrylic urethane top coats but not sure what the finish is like. What do you want to do with it? Generally for top coats its just base-coat + 2k urethane clear if you want metallic or a nice looking clear coat finish, or a automotive single stage 2k urethane for plain colours but they can look kinda plasticy and weird on old cars that originally had a lacquer or enamel paint job IMO.
  6. Yeah something went wrong, 2 part epoxy will usually stick pretty good even to a poorly prepped surface. So using the data sheet for something like the protec 408 epoxy primer it says to sandblast your metal or sand it until clean and coat it. Says if you are using new sheet metal to use their acid wash (which is phosphoric acid) to remove the oils, read the data sheet for the acid wash it says to use steel wool to apply and wash with water so you are washing and scouring it, then wax and grease before painting. This is how I learnt from a couple restoration body work guys, backed up by the data sheets of most paint systems. Now epoxy is used as a sealer of old paint so it does stick to other shit and usually well. But you want to test it out and if you go all the way to bare metal I don't see why you would want anything else under it, especially a rust converter primer, they don't have the same adhesion as magic chemically cured 2 part epoxies. http://www.ppglic.com.au/uploads/tds/408 Epotec Epoxy Primer (2).pdf So for all applications its pretty much clean white sanded/scotch brite steel clean with wax and grease and then apply 2 part epoxy. If you have pitting or want to clean it then acid wash with phosphoric, neutralise with water. I would still key the metal up again with scotch brite after the acid wash to remove everything as you can get some residue if the acid wash got dry. Anything else is garbage IMO. Then for safety as said modern epoxy cures with polyamide, old school ones used amine or something toxic (not a chemist). So 2 part epoxy is very similar as other single stage paints as far as safety goes, ie don't breath it and avoid getting it on the skin and eyes. It doesn't have the extra death factor of polyurethane which cure with isocyanate, anyone who has sprayed urethane clear knows how deadly that shit smells.
  7. You would have to look into the laws in your area, ie here in Brisbane the law is vauge and some spray painting at home is allowed as long as it is not commercial. You have to look it up, It was legal to spray my car in the driveway and I asked/told the neighbours about it. I mean guys reseal roofs with spray in open atmosphere, I have seen the exterior of homes spray painted. Case by case for your council. Bling phosphoric acid is not hard core, I buy the bunnings shit and dilute it a little further depending on the job. It doesn't sting the skin and fuck all fumes unless you boxed yourself in with a bath of it working. You can do the same thing with citric acid or vinegar for sure but the phosphoric seems to be just the right zing for panels where it takes 15-30min instead of 4 hours, when I was soaking shit in citric acid baths it takes 24-48h to work. Unsure about anything else as using acid is the gold standard as far as I have learned. As for spraying safety I had looked it up a millon times but looked again. Modern 2 part epoxy primers are only considered mild irritants and only fuck you up over long term exposure without correct PPE which can give you allergic type reactions, they do not cure with isocyanates. They are just as shitty as exposure to single stage solvent curing paints basically so wear a mask and its all good. Its the polyurethane ( urethane primer, single stage top coats,clears etc) that cure with isocyantate and are considered extra death spec which gets absorbed through the skin and can build up toxicity.
  8. Yeah have to be careful. If you look into it most epoxy primer isn't too bad, its the urethane top coats that have max isocyanate and will murder you. 3M face mask with the correct filters and some eye protection and you will live, its only primer so do it outside in the driveway for extra safe points. In straya you can buy phosphoric acid at Bunnings in the paint thinners section under the name ranex, its expensive but convenient. Problem with single stage solvent cured paint is its million years old technology. Nothing beats a good 2 part epoxy primer for adhesion to metal, same for top coats urethane lasts for a zillion years and is low upkeep.
  9. What, no way. Single stage paint products go in the rubbish bin.
  10. Hard to tell but looks like you let it dry on there, gotta keep it wet. I use the acid to convert surface rust but don’t bother leaving the acid finish for paint. Once you do the acid I usually sand/scotch brite the fuck out of it until it’s white and then wax and grease. Go get some 2 part epoxy primer, etch primer is shit.
  11. Spencer

    Rust Worm

    This is the method, phosphoric acid and scotch brite, then epoxy. Don’t use single stage rust treatment paints they don’t have very good adhesion compared to acid wash then 2 part epoxy primer.
  12. Yeah put a timing light on it if you can. Also old unused injectors love to be blocked up so could be a problem, I have had this a few times they were dumping fuel but just so shit that it wouldn't fire. Maybe triple check cam timing since the head came off. Lush whip also, Z10's are great
  13. Just a opinion but the 5MGE with the lock-up auto go sweet as, wouldn't look past it to just get this thing lush as fuck and rolling around. Easier to slam dunk a auto 5MG and build a simple skid plate than manualise this thing tidily.
  14. What is the suspension setup? hopefully wishbone front and coils on rear axle? if its leaves then its gay.