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Spencer last won the day on November 7 2019

Spencer had the most liked content!

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About Spencer

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    Spiro Poppadopolos
  • Birthday 01/01/1869

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  1. Have you printed some headers yet?
  2. Surely OS has a friendly wizard who will make you a header for some small change, that TRD one is pretty simple.
  3. That 7.4kw is before we bin the cat and fit a 3" zaust! 10KW gainz. On a serious note though the cam phasing will work better again once you open up the exhaust side somehow, especially the headers. Oh and offer that guy $100 for that TRD manifold.
  4. This is so good. Probably another 5-10hp+ in some headers and zaust, buy a box of bends and make spaghetti/mess
  5. Well done. After seeing your thread on wanting one of these I had seen a couple pre-facelifts in a mall car park on the same day. I since went to find any for sale just out of curiosity and they are very thin on the ground here, like one four door advertised in the whole country pretty much.
  6. Spencer


    Yup spot on, its so hard to see in the garage how thick/thin your 2K clear is going on so you need some experience to see the subtle differences in how you are applying it. Good thing is you can just cheese it on with a shit gun and still get a nice result by sanding and polish.
  7. Spencer


    Yeah epoxy primer holds out to heat better than anything else, really want a top coat on it though. As above basically modern normal car paint (2 part epoxy and urethane) works better than any of the old school engine enamels etc. I had the fancy KBS engine enamel on a few things and oil leaks eat it and peel it off, it takes the heat fine but not engine bay fluids.
  8. Spencer


    Yup you are hearing different thing because there is different systems and methods. For the home DIY guy using 2k urethane primer, you would have done all your block work and happy with it. Then a thin coat of primer on that and let it dry, wait to dry then sand back wet with say 6/800 clean it all down and you are good to top coat. Other systems are wet coat, you done the bog and block work and you bang a "sealer" coat of primer on and then once it flashes you paint the top coat. You have to be good enough to lay the primer on nice and flat though for wet coating IMO but its a big time saver in some body shop scenarios. Then there are others where the primer has a window to coat it without sanding, the primer stays chemically "sticky" for say 24 hours where you have a window to coat it without sanding. Option 1 for most of us though, sand before top coat we are not in the business of speed and production efficiency. Wet coating works great for engine bays, under the car, interior and all that shit where a bit of peel or dust in the finish doesn't matter.
  9. Spencer


    The dream is you do metal repairs and go straight to primer and done, not many of us have those kind of skills
  10. Mate which evercoat did you use? there are 20 types budget version through to mega fancy, was it Rage 3D gold? haha. (used 3M and upol also great) But yes the moral is go to a paint shop for all your gear not a parts store, otherwise you are using silverline brake pads (or worse) basically.
  11. Don’t use parts store filler either get some evercoat.
  12. The market and information is all fucked up for the hobbyist car painter. The professional grade manufacturers really don't want you using their shit, you will most likely use it wrong and its kind of a dangerous good. The parts stores can't really fork out 2 part paint to every retard so they sell cans of paint technology from years ago, there is no system, no real data sheets its crap. Add all that up and you have a toilet of information. Go watch what a body restoration guy will use, all 2 part products that we mention on old school twice a week. You can do everything with 2 part epoxy primer, seal metal, seal your bog (under and over) , you can wet coat it, you can brush it on, it doesn't sand very well but you can block out for a top coat on it if you wish. It doesn't have isocyanates like Urethane paint so its not deadly. It is the staple tool in doing any body work on a car. Etch primer is old as fuck, it doesn't seal anything, you do not bog on it. throw it in the bin.
  13. Two part filler will react with single stage etch primer and it will fall off in the future, trust me.
  14. You can bog over 2 part epoxy just fine, if you are buying a modern filler like evercoat etc it does not trap moisture and the data sheets say its fine to use on bare metal. Just epoxy prime it after you have done the work don't drag it out and leave metal and filler open to the world for ages. Either filler on bare metal or over epoxy primer, then seal it up with epoxy. If you use any single stage paints I will stab you, rattle cans go in the bin.