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Spencer

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Spencer last won the day on November 7 2019

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  • Birthday 01/01/1869

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  1. Don't go past the JZ autos either the A340 is awesome, especially one from a turbo car IMO. They turbo ones seem to bang through the gears pretty sweet and there are a bunch of ECU that can control them now. I had a auto turbo JZA80 and loved the slushbox in it, driven a few others also (aristo etc)
  2. Yeah man if you have a crown its the path of least resistance, unless you are keen on a big fab project. Or if you are crazy like Sheepers then a old school 5/6MGE are really sweet engines (when working and not popping head gaskets etc) they sound real cool and drive real nice in a cruiser. Hardest part these days is probably tracking down a genuine crown JZ mid-sump for a real tidy slam dunk conversion. You can add a turbo or ITBs to spice things up later on also.
  3. Spencer

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    You do not weld through the epoxy, you paint (cure) then line up the parts and remove the epoxy with your spot weld drill, I am talking for spot welded seams (or the back of a patch panel) the cured 408 holds up incredibly well next to a spot weld when you open them up. I did a shit load of paint testing and leaving stuff outside and I have no confidence in weld through primers, I tested a couple different ones and they all go rusty in a month or two where 408 is fine, sand it back metal is clean. Its a slow method though with the cure time and prep. There are 1 million types of epoxy primer so you have to figure it out yourself and I do agree generally automotive primers are made to be coated over but many of them hold up to weather amazingly well. Chemically there is nothing stopping 2 part epoxy itself from being waterproof there are advertised weather proof epoxy primers especially in industrial paint lines, depends on what the paint manufacturer mixes up for each application. Anyway I am a fan of the the protec 408 though it holds up well, you can buy a protec epoxy with zinc phosphate mixed in if you were concerned but I have not used it. You would guess it would hold up even better to weather, its what the local sand blaster dude chucks on everything and then leaves outside. Do your own testing etc.
  4. Spencer

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    Its absolute junk IMO, all 1K "rust converters" or "rust primers" are junk as is POR15. Prep and Epoxy primer everything, if you cannot reach the area and it has surface rust then just cavity wax it and forget about it. Epoxy primer works better than weld through primer in a can (junk) also, you just have to be able to wait the 48h for it to cure fully. Think I have said all this about 50 times in here
  5. Spencer

    PAINT THREAD

    After someone mentioned HVLP guns in here I also went down the rabbit hole of seeing what the hell they were. Turns out they are just china clones of some of the brand name guns that are known to use a little less air and have a finer spray pattern. The main one you see is the R500, its basically a W400 clone, which with a 1.3 tip uses like 5-7cfm. I think the R500 is about the same air consumption as the W400 if you run it at 30psi with full paint flow (not the 2cfm and other bullshit you see) if you turn the paint dial down you can run very low pressure (like 25-27 psi) and get a real nice finish with minimal over spray so its a great garage gun for $$ it cost me. If you are used to big fans and decent guns (in a shop with lots of air) then its junk, but its a decent clone and dirt cheap. They have the next version up (R830 or R600) which is a kiwami clone and basically is the same thing with a bit of a different spray pattern and it looks cooler, again works well with paint dialed down and low pressure (I got them both). These guys Rongpeng make the two clones you see everywhere sold under different brands, you can buy the original guns there. There are other sellers than have them even cheaper than the factory (my R500 was $57 shipped) https://rongpeng.vi.aliexpress.com/store/3009028/pages/all-items.html?productGroupId=511210255&spm=a2g0o.store_pc_home.smartGrouping_2009187456512.511210255&storeId=3009028&sortType=bestmatch_sort&shop_sortType=bestmatch_sort So yeah in short the clone china guns have got way better over the years, those are just the falsely marketed "HVLP" ones which are probably the best for the 3hp compressor crowd looking for a cheap gun that works. From what I have seen if you have more air they make decent clones of everything now SATA, Devilbiss the whole shebang, just have to wade through all the shit to figure out what is good. There is a barry on youtube who reviews almost every spray gun in the universe, he is the most barry chap ever. https://www.youtube.com/@peteshobbies5383
  6. Spencer

    PAINT THREAD

    I recently invested in a Aliexpress 3M clone liner/cup setup, for clean-up in the garage setting its unbeatable. I now also just clean my gun with a spray can of solvent instead of having 20L of gun wash thinners which also makes shit way cleaner. I used to have tubs of gun wash all over the show, now just a few rags and a spray can. Having a less messy setup in the garage helps get shit quicker and easier for me. I bin those junk plastic filters in the cup, for me they seem to cause paint flow issues into the gun. Strain it before it goes in with the paper filter, never have issues.
  7. That big block 50 series has the front cross member almost completely hacked out and a front rack and pinion conversion. Big effort to do that steering conversion, they are pretty much at the point where chopping the chassis off would be easier (but possibly way harder to get legal in AU).
  8. Straight 6 is going to be way easier. Problem with any more modern engine is the cast alloy sump which are structural parts of the engine to some degree, I think the BMW mentioned above has a fancy (and giant) variable volume oil pump sitting in the sump so you would have to dry sump it to make it fit. NA 2JZ are pretty good, you can jump on the brake and do a sweet burnout pretty easy (which is the test if your engine conversion was worth while)
  9. I have sat in-front of a crown chassis in yee old days with Sheepers and Camel, the verdict is to make a crown V8 conversion (and most likely V6) that does not suck you need to hack up the chassis. Something like get a Mustang 2 rack and pinion front end kit and then make some front chassis rails from the firewall forward, or you might get away with just removing the giant cross member and making something less obtrusive.
  10. ^ pretty much, the car is not a big yank whip from 1955 on so its not made for a v8 (or v6). Its made for a straight 6 with a mid bowl sump, the chassis is tight and the steering runs where a rear sump wants to sit. Even the later factory UZ crowns are a pretty shit setup, log headers almost touching the chassis, zero room in the engine bay. But it can be done and has, its just not fun or easy. JZ with a crown mid sump flies in there no drama, not sure on Barra sumps but will go in easier than a v6.
  11. Yeah custom alloy middle sump will be needed. Then the chassis and upper arms will be in the way. V configuration engines end up as pretty ugly and painful swaps into crowns unless you tube chassis the front end.
  12. Yeah seems to be reinventing the wheel abit. I would emulate something like you see in most EFI drag cars, heaps of data logging, driveshaft speed, accel meters etc, then usual stuff like wideband and tune it for the track/day/change in parts.
  13. Awesome work dude. Looking forward to the stage when you can zing the throttle and see how good the dort is.
  14. 7.5" they are pretty good size for the weight and power of this thing. You will find out with some slicks and hard launches I guess
  15. Spencer

    PAINT THREAD

    The flattening agent is mixed in by the paint shop, there is some limit where it goes to shit so they are usually scared to add too much in. But if you get someone who will mix it up (or buy your own and test) you should be able to get it pretty flat in 2K. Fresh lacquer paint looks better in matt black but its not durable at all (it will stain and go chalky at some point), 2K single stage urethane by its nature has this plastic look to it so flattening it out it can still look funny but I have seen a few that look good (they probably use flat clear).
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