Benno

Zephyrs have brake and fuel lines which are attached together with clips from front to back of car. The clips push into place into holes in the chassis. I don't have any of the clips that came out. Any suggestions where I might get something like this from? Or a similar clamp to hold them together and in place?

Decided to give the bearings a go with the motor in place. I used my engine crane to lift the front of the engine slightly, only needed to be raised about 15mm for the sump to clear so didn't need to touch the mounts or anything. I replaced the main and big end bearings. The big end bearings had a bit of wear, as did the crankshaft. When I started the engine after the bearing replacements there was still a light knocking noise but much better than it was previously. The engine will definitely need a proper rebuild, but I hope I can run this one for long enough to get the rest of the car sorted and driving. I should have enough spare engine parts to build up a new motor with a cam, higher compression, light port/polish etc. Time to start researching, watching some youtube videos and saving coin for the eventual build.

It's been a while, still making progress on this. Got the hood lining, carpet and seats in. The old wiring harness wasn't in great condition and I wanted to add some more stuff so I'm rewiring from scratch. I've converted to negative earth, replaced generator with alternator, included fuses and relays which should help with performance and reliability. Still working through the dash wiring, got the engine bay and lights sorted. I got the engine running for a test without an exhaust or cooling system. Tested compression, between 120 and 140 psi for all cylinders. Unfortunately I had some problems with my shitty timing light so the engine was cranking on the starter for a while and the timing was a bit far advanced. There were a couple of backfires when cranking before I got it sorted. When it started, I didn't really notice the knocking noise until I watched the video afterwards. Dropped the oil/filter and looks like there is some metal in there. Unfortunately, I'm pretty sure at least one the main bearings have left the chat. My plan at this stage is to investigate the feasibility of pulling the sump and checking/replacing the bearings with the motor still in the car. Anyone know if it's possible? Haven't researched too much yet, one of my manuals suggests it is possible to pull the sump and oil pump with the front sway bar removed. If possible, I'd like to get this motor running well enough to get through compliance then build a motor in the future. Bit of a set back, but not the end of the world.

I've got a 3M mask, similar to this one: https://nzsafetyblackwoods.co.nz/product/3m-spraying-respirator-kit-6551ql-a1p2-large-00099573?utm_term=&utm_campaign=SR+-+SHP+-+Promotions+-+NZ&utm_source=adwords&utm_medium=ppc&hsa_acc=6884968864&hsa_cam=22929743452&hsa_grp=186749629179&hsa_ad=777652491990&hsa_src=g&hsa_tgt=pla-2445352053315&hsa_kw=&hsa_mt=&hsa_net=adwords&hsa_ver=3&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22929743452&gbraid=0AAAAADK0iOKWd_IruolkJ8JAo8mBYfgky&gclid=CjwKCAiA3L_JBhAlEiwAlcWO5wAIUAMgmni4eoY819qYV_Oqm3Qfx4eSOa4brdndIIwZjzgOEThUBRoClT4QAvD_BwE I've also installed a bathroom extract fan into the garage venting outside which made a big difference. Spraying 2K with isocyanates is certainly not something I would want to be doing regularly at home but I was happy enough for short exposures. A decent clean air mask kit would be great, but not cheap! Seams between the panels weren't too bad on mine. I used some Brunox wherever there was any sign of corrosion. The panelbeater I used had a look and said it should be fine. I am sure it won't last forever but splitting all the seams would be a colossal amount of work!

Hey man. That blue looks good. Have a look at some Youtube videos on painting, it's not too hard to pick up on the basics. I taught myself how to mix paint, use the gun etc when painting my zephyr. Not a perfect finish first time, but a few coats of 2K paint, wet sand and polish and it's come up pretty good. Paint, wax/grease remover, hardener, thinners, mixing cups etc will probably set you back about $1000. I'd be happy to loan you my compressor and gun if you want to have a go at it.

I've been re-assembling. Got the tail lights and quite a bit of the chrome trim installed. I used some vinyl paint on the seats. The seats have come up pretty well, a couple of rips but should be able to fix with some tape and a seat cover until I get them reupholstered. My engine was supposedly rebuilt to factory specs not long ago. No receipts, but it looks clean inside and turns over with good compression. Should be fine to get it running, re-vinned and I can build up another motor with a cam and higher compression. Bit of a mission to install with the gearbox on, but smashed it out with a couple of mates. Would probably do it with the gearbox off next time I think. The next big step is going to be to suss out the hood lining so I can get the front/rear screens in

It was not installed in the car when I got it, so I'm not sure how it mounts sorry.

I reassembled, wet sanded with 800 grit and put another coat down. There were a couple of runs, in the process of removing them I rubbed through to primer in a couple of spots. I masked up the doors and front guards which were OK, resprayed the rest. Unfortunately there was a gust of wind near the end which blew some dust into the paint. Fortunately, I've been able to wet sand out with 2000 grit and polish. Starting to look pretty good now!

Sounds good, I'm potentially keen

Has anyone looked into 3DEXPERIENCE SOLIDWORKS for Makers? I've seen a couple of videos online, it looks ideal. I had mastered SolidWorks at uni, I've never quite clicked as well with Fusion 360. Seems I can't buy a license directly from Dassault as a New Zealand user. I've asked for a quote, waiting to hear back.

The door with the plasma cutting was pretty wonky, so ended up finding a replacement. Managed to get all of the doors paneled and into paint. A bit of dust and a couple of runs, but I'm definitely getting better with the paint gun. Now working on sandblasting the door hinges and cleaning up the boot lid, before reassembly, wet-dry sanding and a final coat. Stoked to be making some good progress again.

Thanks mate. Mine actually came with an implala shifter and some shitty bucket seats. I ended up selling the shifter, quite like the idea of bench seat column change

I had a son last year, so progress has slowed down on this but still happening. Managed to get the guards, valance and bonnet prepped and painted. I got a bit of dust in the paint, but I'm happy enough for now as I'll be putting on another coat later on. Now onto the doors. A couple have had some dents in them, so heaps of bog. I've stripped them and having a go at straightening with a hammer and dolly. One of them had been cut with a plasma cutter then not welded back together, I'm going to tidy that one up.

My budget is a bit thin, I've just got a new gun (the one linked by @mjrstar) and need a new hose too. I realise the 16 cfm will be better than the 12.5 CFM, but realistically I'll only end up using it to paint a whole car a few times and my sandblast cabinet is only really good for small stuff anyway. I'll keep an eye out for a used higher spec compressor. If I don't find anything good, how bad would the 12.5 CFM one be? Would it still do the trick, provided I had a good water trap system on it? My painting so far has been with a supercheap direct-drive 180 LPM jobbie. It's been noisy as hell and I need to take regular breaks to let it fill up again. I wouldn't paint a whole car with it, but it was all good for priming, engine bay, boot etc.

I've decided it's time for a compressor upgrade, my current supercheap direct drive one is very noisy and struggles to keep up when spraying large panels. Any thoughts on this one? Intended mostly for painting and sandblast cabinet, I don't have any other air tools. https://www.thetoolshed.co.nz/product/552-toolshed-belt-drive-compressor-3hp-50l-12-5cfm?categoryId=2179