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vk327 last won the day on September 11 2019

vk327 had the most liked content!

About vk327

  • Birthday 12/09/1991

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  1. havnt played too far with the v6 ecus myself but that looks like it should give you enough headroom on the maf table, could possibly use the AC pressure sensor input as a way to input a wideband 0-5v and be able to log it if you can define your own parameters and calc like im able to with HP tuners for LS
  2. memcal based L67 ecu has the proper table resolution setup for boost and the control for the s/c bypass valve later L36 flash ecu can run it but will run out of map table with the boost cranked up
  3. iv played with keeping the delco controlling the trans only, and results in average trans control (also need the factory ecu to keep the ABS and dash happy), the way the triggering/ignition work on the v6 makes it a bit of a pain to do piggyback with an aftermarket ecu, would suggest looking into using an vy supercharged ecu convert to an nvram board to realtime tune with it, dunno why your having so many issues with crank triggers they are normally ok once replaced with a decent sensor unless the balancer is wonky and eating sensors or other wiring issue going on
  4. injectronics are the specialists in aus repairing vz ecus , absolute garbage bosch ecu (they burn up the tracks inside the ecu not really a diy type job on multi layer pcbs) to go with equally as junk rattletec engine, my tuner/programming mate has replaced over 70 ecus in vz v6s in the last 2 years
  5. you'll probablly run into issues running the vy pcm on the l67, the vy pcm is pinned diffferently to the l67 pcm and the loom is different the l67 has the bypass valve control, as well as the l67 ecu has a larger maf table(and other boost related control), the NA vy pcm will likely max out its maf table (have had issues before with people running NA pcms on boosted v6s) if you can find one would be better off getting an NVRAM for the L67 pcm which enables live tuning on the memcal based ecu.
  6. had to revin our kingswood due to dodgy plate/ tag mismatch from 97, we have owned the car for 5 years, VTAC were happy for me to do a declaration with a JP that i own the car, all proof/docs i had was relating to the plates that didnt match the cars chassis/vin number, VTAC had sighted the car 1st tho
  7. complete prick of a thing to get out have to drop the whole pedal box ,column and brake booster plus half the lower dash, not the easiest to mount either recently pulled one out of a BF for my wagon build
  8. Anything alloytec v6 onwards seems to be junk, the vz v6 ecus are total garbage, all the LS stuff is pretty reliable electronics wise
  9. Yeah pedal will typically be 6 wire, 2 potentiometers to give failsafe signals to ecu, throttle body is similar setup, normally common up +5v and gnd, so 4 pins for position and 2 for motor, just need to go thru the e throttle setup in the link software to set the sensor slope, generally wired one upscale one downscale
  10. Nissan dualis/qashqai pedal
  11. Never had issues with the ve pedals, just looked now priced at $110+, depending on what space you have maybe look at some of the Nissan or Subaru pedals as they have metal stem which is easy to mod pedal angle/position if needed
  12. check out these https://www.msel.co.nz/epages/motorsportelectronics.sf/en_NZ/?ObjectID=90387&ViewAction=FacetedSearchProducts&SearchString=throttle+body&SearchButton= https://www.msel.co.nz/epages/motorsportelectronics.sf/en_NZ/?ObjectPath=/Shops/motorsportelectronics/Products/SENBOSPED link will run damn near any combo just need to setup the calibration for the sensors, some subaru/ nissan pedal sensors are a lever arm type so can adapt a standard pedal if needed LS commodore stuff is pretty cheap too, I can get VE commodore pedal for about $90 new (similar mounting to the MSEL one) heaps of throttles available in various sizes
  13. il chech the wiring info iv got for the vt cluster, fuel input should just be a hardwired input, does the level sender have its ground wired? I think they were 2 wire from memory
  14. brown is charge light white is sense on a stock ls plug should be marked on the alternator too
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