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98cc

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About 98cc

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    Male
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    Vintage cars, old stationary engines, metalwork, classic bikes and model aeroplanes

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    Auckland

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  1. Over to the mill to drill through stud holes. Dividing head to do stud clearance cutouts Repeat x 2 Will need a final hone when the time comes otherwise finished
  2. First cuts on the casting. This was a serious brown undie moment holding the rough casting on some very narrow jaws boring out a rough casting at the other end. Bored out and head spigot machined. 3.5 inch bore Flipped over and cyl base machined
  3. Yep I imagine this will be the case. We did, 3 GP Bugatti’s and was going to do the Mille Miglia the weekend before. Was pretty guttered when that was all cancelled. You just about could of. Chain driven blower might have to be in this cars future. Cyl time. The crowd I got the crankcases of had just done a run of cylinders and heads so I managed to get a set. It was far easier getting them sent a couple of hours down the road instead of to New Zealand that’s for sure. First issue to sort, the only boring bar big enough was a bit large for the toolpost.
  4. One year later...... So shortly after my post I packed my bags (including a JAP crankcase) and hopped on a plane to the Uk on the big OE. I’m working in the vintage car world over here and have had some pretty amazing experiences. After spending so many hours looking at pics of cyclecars and the like it’s pretty neat to be at the events where they are running and get a real feel for them. One of the coolest trips I have been on was in Mark Walkers GN Thunderbug. A 4.2 litre Vtwin in a light weight chain drive chassis is definitely a good formula.... Some pics from the l
  5. Cheers Mate, yeah was bloody good to meet up. Dennis had an amazing time at Leadfoot, it was the first proper car event he'd been to in over 15 years and he yarned to heaps of people about the Spider which was really neat. He does still drive so it would be awesome to get him back in it, will hopefully be able to sort something out. Really looking forward to getting into this when i get back home, pulling the engine out and replacing the seals should be pretty straight forward and then it will be time to have a third driving session!
  6. Cheers mate, na I think I will be doing some flicking through the Wiseco piston catalogue when it gets to that stage... Wow awesome, would of been great working at Mcintosh. I think I saw that engine run a few years ago when I was visiting Ken. Were the Hemmings heads original upgrade parts for sidevalve engines? I take it the guy with KTOR on the floor would never part with it? I’ll be making my own flywheels with press fits throughout, will get a 1.5” dia drive mainshaft with the bearings in have. A bit better that the original..... Have got the timing s
  7. Did you ever see the engine run SOHC? A bit of info on this engine. It’s a 1930 JAP JTOR long stroke racing model of 1000cc. They were used in racing 3 wheel Morgan’s and Brough Superior motorcycles. These v twins are very rare these days and are worth a large amount of money. Lucky a place in the UK has reproduced some accurate castings for anyone mad enough to try make their own. I will be changing a few things with this one to try and get a bit more capacity and power out of it. Made a start on machining the drive side crankcase half. Bearing boss faced off to become the f
  8. Nice cardboard box arrived from the UK. JAP V twin engine kit set, some assembly required..... Should keep me busy for a bit.
  9. Good progress on the front axle this weekend. I'm doing a tubular GN style front axle the same as Bloody Mary had. Axle end blanks. 4140 Outer profile milled and kingpin hole bored Ready to go in the axle tube The axle tube. 1 1/2'' 4130 3/16 wall, should be strong enough..... Axle end in. These will get brazed into the tube Complete axle And mock up, made a couple of temporary axle clamps to hang it off the springs. Bloody Ma
  10. Yeah will definitely have to do a couple of early morning runs.... Have been working on getting a front axle put together. I’m using Austin 7 front drums and stubs. These needed a bit of a rebuild Reamed out the kingpin bushes with an adjustable reamer Set up the stubs in the mill, indicated the king pin to get them square. The dividing head was very good for this job The worn bottom surface that needs remachining And after Then needed to make a couple of new kingpins to fit. 4140 bar stock
  11. Yep all of the tiny weight savings Dennis did seemed to of added up. The body alone only weighs 30kgs. For sure, it did fell like it was a lean issue. Will pull the motor out and chuck a new set in.
  12. No but a mate has one and wants to chuck it in a Austin 7 chassis. Its a pretty cool rotary hoe when its powered by a v twin! luckily someone has already made JAP casting patterns...... Made a start on the chassis brackets. Did them in two half's so could clamp them to chassis rail and get a nice tight fit before welding. Have also thinned down the rails from 2" to 1 1/2''. Looked a bit bulky and heavy before. Much better now Drilled a hole through it all and mounted the springs. Will need some form of U bolt to ho
  13. Cheers Truenotch. Had a great time at Leadfoot, so good to get the car to a motorsport event again. A few teething issues including the problem that i thought i fixed with the new diaphragms. I think the crankcase seals are toast and its lacking in crankcase compression. There was a lot of oily mess around the engine and i think the seals are the only place it could be coming from. Also missed one run after i failed to make it out to the start. Fired up the motor on the dummy grid ready to drive out to the start line, selected first gear let the clutch out and oh shit i'm going backwards
  14. Made a start on the springs today. GNs used 1 1/4'' wide 1/4 elliptic springs on the front and rear. A mate had some Morris 8 springs spare which are the correct width and a good start. Pile of springs The setup for resetting them Before and after. i have left one leaf out for now, might still need to take another out yet. And where it will sit on the chassis rail. Need to make up some brackets to bolt it to.
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