Otodat

Yeah I could easily enough get a 15A plug put in the shed and a converter for when it’s out of the shed if need be.

Oh that sucks, other welder is out of aus, probably be a hassle gst etc i guess. Although same weldtech machine is in Christchurch for a little extra https://www.trademe.co.nz/business-farming-industry/industrial/manufacturing-metalwork/welders/auction-2238238817.htm

Looking at getting a new welder so dragging this back up. I need a portable stick welder for repairs but would like to have a plasma cutter set up in the workshop at other times. Needs to be able to cut and weld up to 10mm steel. These two on tm look like they would do the job. https://www.trademe.co.nz/business-farming-industry/industrial/manufacturing-metalwork/welders/auction-2237324533.htm https://www.trademe.co.nz/business-farming-industry/industrial/manufacturing-metalwork/welders/auction-2237872314.htm Will need this to run off normal house socket. When cutting/welding 10mm would it go for a decent amount of time without cutting out or am I asking too much? Keen to hear from anyone that has experience with them. Or alternatively I have 3 phase in the shed. Would it be better to get a decent plasma and a cheap portable welder?

If the rag is damp but not soaked with thinners seems clean up fine or can use wax and grease remover, wipe it on with a rag then wipe off before it drys with a clean rag. Personally I’ve found a bit of thinners to be better. The primer doesn’t need to be thick for stuff like this as long as it sticks to the brunox and the top coat sticks to it should be fine. Scotch brite pads are really good for making a surface for paint to stick to with taking it off like sanding etc. Best to do a test patch when mixing different paints. Killrust is a bit weird to paint with compared to the other few paints I’ve used and takes ages to dry but seems to hold up ok.

Yeah i’m far from an expert. The stuff I’ve done I gave the brunox a quick scuff with a scotch brite pad then a wipe over with thinners on a rag otherwise the paint wouldn’t sit flat. I use killrust as well because it’s available locally but I think I might of used a different primer I had sitting around last time, can’t recall what type it was sorry. Found it best to put a very light coat over the brunox first followed by a heavier coat as the brunox dries quite hard and smooth. Used brunox and hammerite on my daily to tidy up some chassis mounts and a bumper without any sanding and brushed on (with 2 or 3 coats) and it’s holding up well after 18 months.

I have used hammerite ( also from mitre10 ) over brunox on chassis and bumpers and it is held up well. Usually leave any rust converter at least a day before before putting any top coat over to avoid reactions. You could also try an intermediate primer between brunox and the killrust, seems to stick better. What part of the Waikato are you in? Anyways keep up the good work.

Sweet vans, what’s the setup with that silver one?

Yeah the 55 is the id of the frame

Cool thanks I measure 55x38 on the round bush and 62x30 on the top of the steel block

Hey scooters, just out of interest would you be able to measure the blocks and front bushes so I can compare to President ones, cheers.

Damn that was a good read, can’t quite figure it out- is the greenish truck the gtref truck now? anyways awesome work going on here, watching with interest.

Good score, that shell looks dam tidy

Have been reading up on that looks really good

Not sure if this is the right place to ask but would anyone be able to recommend electrical schematic software that is easy to use and cheap or free to acquire?

Getting quite a stockpile of bits there Alasdair , for paint on springs etc I have just used truck chassis paint in the past and found it ok but might be a bit rough for what your going for. People seem to recommend por15 for under carriage bits. If your ever up in Hamilton be worth asking at autolink what they recommend