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Everything posted by Otodat

  1. All sorts, have used ppg and recently rustkill stuff from mitre 10 and some random old primer I found in the cupboard ( resene I think). Would generally leave at least 24 hrs between brunox to primer then at least another 24 from primer to paint. Rub of scotch brite just before then usually wipe down with thinners ( maybe not necessary but I feel like it makes the paint stick better) not an expert by any means but seems to work ok for me. Are you spraying or brush, if spraying do a very light coat ( like see through ) first and let it dry a bit then heavier on the next one.
  2. Usually give it a scuff with a scotch brite then primer then paint
  3. Looking good, glad to see you are on a bit of a roll with this now.
  4. Well done on getting this going so quickly, can't imagine how nuts it is with that engine!
  5. Would usually use argosheild for gas which is argon mixed with carbon dioxide as it works out a bit cheaper and lasts longer, co2 is cheaper again and lasts longer as co2 is stored as liquid but leaves a bit of green slag which needs to be cleaned off.
  6. Oh yeah, your regulator shouldn't be hissing, except when gas passes through when you are welding, might have a leak there. Are you using straight argon or argosheild?
  7. You can also hold a block of dissimilar metal behind the weld where possible as a heat sink, copper is best but hard to find or a scrap bit of aluminum works to. You can clamp it with vise grips and it will both give you a surface to weld to so the weld doesn't blow through and take some of the heat away if you can't turn your welder low enough. Other than that work in short burst and let it cool a bit between. Good luck and keep at it.
  8. That a12 block would explain the gutlessness on the hills you talked about, shame it’s not a15
  9. Oh man, cool project. Will be watching with interest.
  10. Looks to be shaping up well, great job keep at it!
  11. Haha yeah, nah, looked at it some more and it must be at a very old repair, looks as if the rear quarter has been replaced ( it’s black on the inside and the other side is white). Sure I could chuck a weld on there and it will be painted with the rest of the underside but this car is will likely need a cert for engine swap so I guess to reframe the question- if this was done the correct way what is involved repair wise and paperwork wise?
  12. Was working under the Datsun today and spied this it’s on the chassis rail forward of the rear spring hanger. Anyone got any advice on what to do here?
  13. Could that short driveshaft be off 510. Was looking on 1200.com and 510 is 1082mm u joint to u joint with h165 flange pattern but different spigot size. http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=Propeller_Shaft_Swaps
  14. Option 4 seems like the easiest/cheapest way to go. Could you maybe put efi or throttle body injection on to save room, a lot of fafing about though. Or another option could be a right angle from the manifold to the front or back and put a su carb on? Anyways, keep at it, like where you’re headed with this.
  15. Sounds normal Datsun spec then, never seen one in nz before, quite cool.
  16. Hold up, is that an early 200sx you’re pulling that motor and box out of?
  17. Welder review- for anyone interested. Ended up getting a weldtech 4015mp from an outfit in Christchurch and it turned up three days later. Had been meaning to get a 15A plug sorted out but new toy, so couldn’t wait. This is a multi process machine that does stick welder, plasma cutter and tig. Big part of getting this is the days of chucking the old young model b (pictured below) in the back of the wagon when I needed to weld something out of the workshop are fading. This thing is so light in comparison, and having a plasma cutter has been on my wish list for some years.
  18. Possibly it would have a two stage relay for the fuel pump?
  19. Yeah I could easily enough get a 15A plug put in the shed and a converter for when it’s out of the shed if need be.
  20. Oh that sucks, other welder is out of aus, probably be a hassle gst etc i guess. Although same weldtech machine is in Christchurch for a little extra https://www.trademe.co.nz/business-farming-industry/industrial/manufacturing-metalwork/welders/auction-2238238817.htm
  21. Looking at getting a new welder so dragging this back up. I need a portable stick welder for repairs but would like to have a plasma cutter set up in the workshop at other times. Needs to be able to cut and weld up to 10mm steel. These two on tm look like they would do the job. https://www.trademe.co.nz/business-farming-industry/industrial/manufacturing-metalwork/welders/auction-2237324533.htm https://www.trademe.co.nz/business-farming-industry/industrial/manufacturing-metalwork/welders/auction-2237872314.htm Will need this to run off normal house socket. When cutting/welding 10
  22. If the rag is damp but not soaked with thinners seems clean up fine or can use wax and grease remover, wipe it on with a rag then wipe off before it drys with a clean rag. Personally I’ve found a bit of thinners to be better. The primer doesn’t need to be thick for stuff like this as long as it sticks to the brunox and the top coat sticks to it should be fine. Scotch brite pads are really good for making a surface for paint to stick to with taking it off like sanding etc. Best to do a test patch when mixing different paints. Killrust is a bit weird to paint with compared to the other few paint
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