WhangareiKE70

Hey all, Wanting someone to have a look at a Vitara for me, this one: https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/suzuki/auction-2154394858.htm?rsqid=7a35ea17d4284dc0b367debf2639d718-003 If I can sort the money (working on that right now) I will need to get it checked over as I am based in Whangarei. I could go for an AA/VTNZ check but have found them next to useless in the past. Would prefer someone who has access to a hoist if possible or even a trained mechanic? There is money/beer in it for you but also a whole lot of appreciation. As stated in the auction, it has oil leaks, not the prettiest thing you ever did see, and has a 4" suspension lift so will likely have hectic CV angles. I can deal with those back in Whangarei, what I need to know is if it will likely* make it back to Whangarei in one piece. (* you will not be held accountable if it doesn't haha ) . Please someone let me know if they can give me a hand, if I get it I will be flying down either this or next weekend, and will be driving it back. Will update this once I figure out money etc. Cheers, Hayden.

Not out the back in a bin. There was a few different types there. Sorry it took me so long to get around to going in.

I can pop in after the physio next Tue as that is just around the corner from the Kamo one, if nobody has checked by then.

I have no running OS projects/nothing new then. But keen for a meet up.

Paint adhesion/longevity is always gonna come down to surface prep, to an extent. For my chassis rails I have always used POR15 with good results (contrary to some opinions on here. Wire brush to clean, wax and grease remover, etch any bare steel, then wax and grease remover again (because why not) then POR15. I apply POR15 with a brush as it flattens off really well/burgeoning barry lyfe, never had a problem with brush marks, and I'm certainly no artist with a brush. Once again disclaimer I am not a professional but have done a few chassis' this way now and they have survived well.

I am mind blanking at the moment, I will come back and edit this when I remember/look it up, not at home right now. EDIT: @Raizer this is it here. https://www.chevpac.co.nz/catalogue/page/mig-welders_WOR_S236_C457/mig-welder-200a-mig-mag-1ph-multi-mig-wd-mig200m_WMG100120?p=1 Was sceptical at first as it was not 'name brand', but have used it plenty now and has been a good machine. Only used MIG so far as I haven't gotten around to buying an Argon bottle just yet. That looks a bit better than the el cheapo one I had to be fair to Bunnings welders. I would personally check out your local engineering supplies store though, I got mine through Donovans here in Whangarei and they had the best selection by far that I could find locally, and good advice for a novice like myself. Plus the price was good for what I got, I felt. Welding anything 3mm+ like you often would in an engineering shop is very different to panel steel, you want the fine controls I find as the difference between just the right setting and too hot/cold is very minor I find. Also prep is key so you should be well sorted for that. DISCLAIMER: I am very much a learner, everything I say is from my own experience, which compared to a lot of people (especially on here) is very limited. But I thought my perspective may be helpful, as is that of a learner.

If you are looking to buy a welder for panel work, as with any tool, buy the best one you can afford. I am only learning to weld at the moment, I started trying probably a couple of years ago and I had a cheap Bunnings welder, and could not get it to do even half decent welds. Someone better than me almost definitely could have made it do good welds, but as a learner I just couldn't get it to do what I wanted. It was enough to make me stop trying for a while honestly. Now that I have a good machine, it makes learning 1,000,000x easier. It is easy to adjust settings etc with amperage, wire feed speed, gas coverage etc, they are all continuously variable and you can make fine adjustments, not just 1-5 or whatever it was on my cheap one. Mine was fairly spendy for a home use machine at $1500 but is multi process (stick, H/F tig and MIG/MAG) but even the difference between a $200 welder and a $4-500 welder is huge.

Fair point. Any idea who is a good supplier to buy UJs from?

Question regarding steering setups for my 720/Safari mashup. I have the NZCCM, and it has this section: Essentially my question is: The pair of UJs (1 either side of the intermediate shaft) would be supported at the firewall, and the steering box. Is that what it's asking for, or some sort of inline bearing on the intermediate shaft? Probably an obvious answer but I wasn't sure. If the answer is a support on the intermediate shaft, then do I need to incorporate some degree of movement (i.e. rubber mounting) as it is a cab on frame and there will be a degree of flex? Or is that negligible and it can just be hard mounted? Thanks in advance.

I am also sad there is no TD42. But they are genuinely about 150mm longer than an RB25, and I have already had to cut the firewall to get that engine far enough back, while still maintaining room (just) for he radiator/fans. It was a very genuine consideration. I have the NZCCM, and it has this section: Which is essentially my question. The pair of UJs (1 either side of the intermediate shaft) would be supported at the firewall, and the steering box. Is that what it's asking for, or some sort of inline bearing on the intermediate shaft? I will post the question in the cert thread too but I wasn't sure if it belonged there or in the technical thread. Hence the confusion in my second post. Cheers for the input guys/now I want a TD42 again.

I will get a better photo when I get home but that gives you an idea. The body is hovering about half a meter over the chassis on the hoist. The angle of the photo is deceiving, but it has to travel approx 150mm across over the 4-500mm between the steering box and the firewall. I connected it up (without the steering column not bolted in as it was too long) and the angle was harsh to say the least, the rag joint wasn't happy. As I said, I will get a better photo hopefully tonight which should explain it better, and you can tell me if I'm being dumb, and what the obvious fix is if there is one. -Hayden

Another bumpity bump. Hopefully someone has some experience with custom steering setups and can advise?. Haven't looked much more at this since the original post, but I have figured out that the spline is the same between the 720 and Safari.

Making the trip from Whangarei on the Saturday, meant to be a hot day at this stage so that will be good. Would be good to meet some of y'all if you're around and put faces to names. I should really change my username as I haven't had a KE70 for a looong time. WhangareiHiace maybe? Haha

This might be basic but have you tried a different aux cord? Could only be getting mono not stereo through the cord? I have had a similar problem with a faulty cord before.

In place. There really isn't any room to go thicker, it is hard up against the grill and the rad support framing, and I have already had to trim the grill a fair bit in behind. If I have to I can go for a taller intercooler and cut out the bottom of the grill, I will just have to come up with a way of hiding it. This is something I want to be hidden/subtle, unlike everything else on this build. EDIT: Also, fun fact, the engine is actually in the engine bay in the bottom photo, hahaha, shouldn't have any problems with air pockets in the cooling system at least?