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BlownCorona last won the day on November 16 2012

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  1. youve probably already sorted it. but i just picked up our one from dads so i can sort the head on the corona, welcome to use it.
  2. my S4 had those and i was seriously considering that as an option. for those that dont know, i believe hes talking about the 710N valve on audis and vws. essentially a vacuum/boost operated valve. its quite likely the option ill take i think. it would be a really clean way of allowing the air around the blower. i put really expensive 034Motorsport billet ones on the S4 and i regret not swapping them out for standard before selling!
  3. holy shit thats expensive what am i, rich? but unfortunately that wont work in my setup, my throttlebody is before the blower, so i need a path around the blower, not something that bleeds off its pressure. essentially an electric valve. i can actually run the engine with the blower turned off and the engine will suck its air throught the blower spinning the lobes. but i dont know how back for fuel economy that kind of intake restriction would be. guessing pretty significant
  4. oh thats not a decision based on anything other than what id like to own and the different obnoxious noises they can make which are a massive guilty pleasure lol. good fuel and knock detection are definitely happening.
  5. fair enough. im gonna go with the 20R piston kit though. off the shelf parts that dont cost the moon that land me right where i want to be for not too much money seems like the good option, they are an aftermarket kit from a company in the states that specalises in building performance 20/22Rs and states the kits are suitable for mild boost. my only real question now is whether i keep the supercharger setup, and run a bypass so i can keep load off the engine at low RPM. as i do wonder if thats what contributed to blowing the first headgasket? though i suspect it was just and engine rebuilt poorly and/or neglected as i know it was sitting in a feild for upwards of 5 years. or do i convert to a turbo setup. if i did go turbo id want it to look very retro style, with an old looking (not nessesarly, or idealy acually old though), a bit old finned HKS external wastegate ect. hopefully that kind of paints the picture of the style setup id be interested in. ultimately its the same core engine and i can decide later on, i think im leaning towards keeping it supercharged. but having a supercharged car, a turbo car and v8 car wouldnt be the worst thing in the world
  6. i used a locked dizzy in my first engine, then used a trigger wheel mounted in the case of a dizzy. both times i just locked the dizzy up with lockwire. removing the flyweights gave excellent locking points. just a figure 8 of wire and twist it up giving it heaps of tension. use actual lockwire and youll never have to worry.
  7. Heard back from L C Engineering and they piston kit is indeed availible, so I'll be looking to order this in the next day or so. Hopeing I can get it shipped to the American division of my work, and get it drug muled back under the cover of darkness! Cheers for the help this far. I'm sure that's not the end of my problems!
  8. 100% understand you can't give a definitive answer,its not even a common engine let alone a common modification to it. I'm super grateful for any pointers and prior experience ect.
  9. Perfect, this is exactly what I was going to do. Have a good quality donut type sensor and was going to feed it into the laptop microphone. But I've also been wanting a small headphone amp for my desk at work so perhaps a chance to double down on some investment.
  10. They are availible for manufacture. And given I'm standing right next to a cnc mill, I could probably make one myself. But unsure on their performance with sealant on one side and a std gasket on the other?
  11. its a different conversation and potentially worth its own thread? but is there any reliable way to implement decent knock detection without buying high end professional gear?
  12. shit thats a big difference, as in like 75% of my desired boost pressure. i got interested in running their 100 fuel when a colleague said his tuner couldn't get his cammed up blacktop levin to detonate with it. also a tuning shop in timaru did back to back to back test with 98/avgas/npd100 and found the avgas and npd very similar (no lead though) and they were making more power on the sr20det with less boost than on 98, so it definitely lets you get away with more timing. my main concern was availability. but that might not be such a problem anymore, though not all npds are carying 100. however at this point, harder to get fuel trumps grenading a motor.
  13. yup, the crown i have is also factory sc14 with the big bypass valve. works awesome for cruising around but its an ugly and bulky system. could probably be hidden away though. i just saw on the LCEengineering website that the 20r pistons are not currently available. have sent some emails so we'll see. if they arnt available ill have to revisit everything as most of the other piston kits for the 20r i can find look like economy cheapie things which probably will end in tears. initially i was hoping to use 95 octane as 98 is a complete pain in the ass to buy in chch. however NPD are offering a steady supply of 100 octane and seems like there a new station popping up daily. interested in your thoughts on this?
  14. (assuming it stays boosted) its getting intercooled this time around. itll also not be running that much boost. i was keen for 7-8, but would be just as happy with 5-6 in a reliable engine that i wont really have to stress about. its not remotely about power for me. ive had fast cars and i still only drive them at 50kmh. having the blower is 100% about the style the feel and the noise they make. but i also doing want to install it and only make 1psi because itd be technically supercharged. does that make sense? i either want a reliable engine making some boost. or id rather not bother. its still got the clutch on the blower so i could get it up via the ecu to switch on at say 3000RPM or something to mitigate that low RPM problem. however id need to setup a bypass system as i doubt just getting the engine to suck air through an undriven sc is ideal. even though it happily does it? cant be good for fuel economy. for what its worth, and this may change your answer. if these 20R pistons are what i think they are it would be cheaper to build the 8.5 engine, than the 9.2 engine. it would also be bolt together and go with zero machining required. except for perhaps some valve reliefs. the 9.2 engine relies on the assumption of being able to cut the entire circumference out of the 18RG pistons dome and also the cometic head gasket is a 92mm bore vs the current and stock 88.5mm bore so thered be weird dead space in there. a stock gasket is 1.2mm though so most of the deccompression comes from cutting the pistons. turbo does interest me. and so does the thought of being nicer to the rare engine.
  15. Likewise. But I'll just approach it methodically. I think the 20r piston will be the ticket I just need to get my hands on one. Entire quality 20r piston kits can be had out of the states for $150usd