1963 AP5

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About 1963 AP5

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  • Birthday 19/07/1978

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  1. Here you go @MaxPower The front springs were just a little loose with the car jacked so I made them secure the oldschool way with some locking wire.
  2. The carb is all back together and hopefully in working order now. The main things I have changed are: 1) Replaced the primary jet holder and the jet. I have a 60 in my Weber and I did some digging through my parts box and found a spare 57 so I fitted it for you. This will be pretty close but it may still need some minor tuning if everything goes well. 2) Tidied up the carb spacer and fitted fresh gaskets. 3) Fixed up the idle mixture adjustment screw. I found that this was kind of gummed up and when it felt like the screw was all the way in, it was actually about 3mm away from the orifice in the carb barrel. I think this would have made it almost impossible to correctly adjust the idle fuel mixture. I cleaned it all up and pre-set the adjustment screw one and a half turns out. This should be a reasonable starting point but will no doubt require some fine tuning. 4) Sorted out the various vacuum connections and labelled the ones you need to connect to get things working properly. I did notice that the vacuum diaphragm for the automatic choke isn't in good shape. Did you get one of these with your carb kit? If so I think you should fit it to the carb. All the other choke components seem to be in reasonable order and I think the auto choke would probably work if this diaphragm was replaced. The idle-up adjustment screw was missing so I have replaced that so all that's missing now is the vacuum diaphragm.
  3. In the 1980's car manufacturers seemed to think it was a good idea to supply their customers with unnecessary and unsightly additional ride height. Last weeks project was to correct this with new springs and shocks all round. The car didn't drive particularly well so I did a back yard wheel alignment with string and a tape measure. I found that the front wheels were actually toed out so I also corrected that problem and it drives heaps better now. I will get it in for a proper wheel alignment sometime soon.
  4. Finally I have an interesting theory about the make shift jet holder. While re-purposing the solenoid body as a jet holder seems like a good idea I think there may be a problem with this in practice. The solenoid body has quite a large internal volume compared with a jet holder and this void must be filled with fuel before the primary low speed circuit can begin to supply fuel to the engine. Further to this, any air or vapour trapped in this area will affect the fuel delivery to the engine. I believe there is also the potential for fuel to leak back down from this little reservoir again affecting the fuel mixture at low to mid engine speeds. The good news is I am sure I have a spare jet holder for an ADM somewhere in my parts stash and if I can find it I will send it your way so you can give it a try. I will put it all back together sometime this week and hopefully we can get it sorted.
  5. The next thing I noticed was the absence of gaskets on the spacer at the base plate. When I disassembled this I found evidence of vacuum leaks in this area. I will tidy this up and reassemble it with a couple of gaskets installed. If we manage to get the carb working properly you will need to replace this with a metal spacer.
  6. Had a look at the weber on the weekend and i have discovered a few things and have a couple of ideas to share. Firstly the accelerator pump boost diaphragm is set up in a rather unusual manner. On my ADM this diaphragm is supplied with a vacuum signal internally (shared with the power valve) but on your carb the internal port is blanked off and it seems to be supplied from an external vacuum source. Either someone has set it up this way on purpose, although I am not exactly sure why you would do that, or it simply has some incorrect parts fitted. Either way I am sure you can make it work by simply connecting this vacuum line to manifold vacuum.
  7. The throttle cable bracket took some figuring out but I got it all working with the factory cable.
  8. I managed to rework the throttle cable hardware from the original carb so it would work with the Weber. It was a little fiddly but ended up working very well.
  9. The first task was to replace the factory carb. I pulled the plugs and it was obviously running super lean and on top of this i am sure that the vacuum secondaries weren't working. I couldn't find a rebuild kit for it so replacement seemed like the best option. I went for a 32/36 Weber because I have had good results with Weber's in the past and I find they are easy to configure and tune for different applications.
  10. Well I haven't been very good at keeping you all up to date with what's going on in my shed lately so I thought I should try a little harder and share this with you. A few weeks ago I spotted this 1982 Sigma SE on the side of the road in Ohope and decided that it had to be mine. It ran like crap, but it is very tidy and most importantly is rust free. I have been busy working on getting it running properly. The car was on LPG for many years and the factory carb was pretty much useless. I have fixed this problem by installing a 32/36 Weber and she runs sweet now. Photos and details to follow. Discuss the project and/or mock me for my ridiculous life choices here
  11. Oh dear, it's a sad day when the factory single barrel carb is genuinely the best option available. If you really do run out of ideas for the Weber flick me a message, maybe you can send it my way and I can pull it apart and have a look for ya. These carbs really shouldn't be that problematic but maybe there is something wrong with the way yours is put together. It is even possible that somebody messed around with it and got something wrong before you got your hands on it.
  12. Good trick using the old solenoid housing as a jet holder. It's great to see it running a whole lot better!
  13. Here you go. As shown on the pictures this is how my one works. The low speed jet and holder on the primary side is an aftermarket item that is designed to be used in place of either the two stage jet (on late model versions like mine) or the integrated solenoid/idle jet (on early versions like yours). It is physically much larger than the jet fitted to the secondary side and I have included a picture that shows the size for reference. On my carb the fuel supplied to the progression circuit (low speed circuit) must pass through this jet before it gets to the progression holes in the primary barrel. This is important because without this jet you simply can't tune the amount of fuel delivered to this fuel circuit. I think I made a mistake in the previous post and I got the direction of the fuel flow through the jet wrong, it actually enters through the end and exits through the holes in the side. I also took a photo of the carb body looking inside the area where the jet is installed. It does look suspiciously like a plunger sized hole but I am pretty sure your one should work just like mine and it will need a jet fitted in this location. As far as I am aware the only difference between the early model version like yours and the later model version fitted to my car is the separation of the fuel shut off solenoid and the idle jet. On the early version, the jet and solenoid were combined in one assembly. On the late model carbs they relocated the solenoid and changed it to a plunger type and fitted a fancy 2 stage idle jet in the low speed fuel circuit. I don't think the plunger type is supposed to be fitted to the early version of the carb. I also checked the jet size and it's a 60.