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1963 AP5

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About 1963 AP5

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  • Birthday 19/07/1978

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  1. I have yet to properly investigate the power valve set up on the Weber but I expect the principle is similar to the Holley. I believe it lives under the top plate and maybe it can be tuned or modified to work with the van supercharger. We will see I guess.......
  2. Thanks Yep I am planning on doing a draw through set up using the 32/36 that I already have. I am pretty sure that the Holley would be better for this application but I have the Weber so I will give it a try. I am assuming you set up your Holley with an externally referenced power valve. It is a 2000cc so I will start with a 1:1 ratio.
  3. I'm trying to keep things as simple as possible so I am planning on building a draw through set up using the Weber.
  4. If anybody knows where I might find an inlet manifold for a RWD SOHC Mitsubishi 4G63 engine please let me know. I will need one to hack about (modify) in order to make this work.
  5. The Sigma has been sitting around a bit. I drive it every so often but it's kind of underpowered compared with my Aussie 6 cylinder stuff and I really wish it wasn't. I have been toying with the idea of repowering it but I thought I might try to liven up the stock engine first. A buddy of mine dropped this off over the weekend. I really have no idea what I am doing but that has never stopped me in the past. What could possibly go wrong?
  6. Here you go @MaxPower The front springs were just a little loose with the car jacked so I made them secure the oldschool way with some locking wire.
  7. The carb is all back together and hopefully in working order now. The main things I have changed are: 1) Replaced the primary jet holder and the jet. I have a 60 in my Weber and I did some digging through my parts box and found a spare 57 so I fitted it for you. This will be pretty close but it may still need some minor tuning if everything goes well. 2) Tidied up the carb spacer and fitted fresh gaskets. 3) Fixed up the idle mixture adjustment screw. I found that this was kind of gummed up and when it felt like the screw was all the way in, it was actually about 3mm away f
  8. In the 1980's car manufacturers seemed to think it was a good idea to supply their customers with unnecessary and unsightly additional ride height. Last weeks project was to correct this with new springs and shocks all round. The car didn't drive particularly well so I did a back yard wheel alignment with string and a tape measure. I found that the front wheels were actually toed out so I also corrected that problem and it drives heaps better now. I will get it in for a proper wheel alignment sometime soon.
  9. Finally I have an interesting theory about the make shift jet holder. While re-purposing the solenoid body as a jet holder seems like a good idea I think there may be a problem with this in practice. The solenoid body has quite a large internal volume compared with a jet holder and this void must be filled with fuel before the primary low speed circuit can begin to supply fuel to the engine. Further to this, any air or vapour trapped in this area will affect the fuel delivery to the engine. I believe there is also the potential for fuel to leak back down from this little reservoir again affect
  10. The next thing I noticed was the absence of gaskets on the spacer at the base plate. When I disassembled this I found evidence of vacuum leaks in this area. I will tidy this up and reassemble it with a couple of gaskets installed. If we manage to get the carb working properly you will need to replace this with a metal spacer.
  11. Had a look at the weber on the weekend and i have discovered a few things and have a couple of ideas to share. Firstly the accelerator pump boost diaphragm is set up in a rather unusual manner. On my ADM this diaphragm is supplied with a vacuum signal internally (shared with the power valve) but on your carb the internal port is blanked off and it seems to be supplied from an external vacuum source. Either someone has set it up this way on purpose, although I am not exactly sure why you would do that, or it simply has some incorrect parts fitted. Either way I am sure you can make it work
  12. The throttle cable bracket took some figuring out but I got it all working with the factory cable.
  13. I managed to rework the throttle cable hardware from the original carb so it would work with the Weber. It was a little fiddly but ended up working very well.
  14. The first task was to replace the factory carb. I pulled the plugs and it was obviously running super lean and on top of this i am sure that the vacuum secondaries weren't working. I couldn't find a rebuild kit for it so replacement seemed like the best option. I went for a 32/36 Weber because I have had good results with Weber's in the past and I find they are easy to configure and tune for different applications.
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