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1963 AP5

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About 1963 AP5

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  • Birthday 19/07/1978

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  1. Here you go @MaxPower The front springs were just a little loose with the car jacked so I made them secure the oldschool way with some locking wire.
  2. The carb is all back together and hopefully in working order now. The main things I have changed are: 1) Replaced the primary jet holder and the jet. I have a 60 in my Weber and I did some digging through my parts box and found a spare 57 so I fitted it for you. This will be pretty close but it may still need some minor tuning if everything goes well. 2) Tidied up the carb spacer and fitted fresh gaskets. 3) Fixed up the idle mixture adjustment screw. I found that this was kind of gummed up and when it felt like the screw was all the way in, it was actually about 3mm away f
  3. In the 1980's car manufacturers seemed to think it was a good idea to supply their customers with unnecessary and unsightly additional ride height. Last weeks project was to correct this with new springs and shocks all round. The car didn't drive particularly well so I did a back yard wheel alignment with string and a tape measure. I found that the front wheels were actually toed out so I also corrected that problem and it drives heaps better now. I will get it in for a proper wheel alignment sometime soon.
  4. Finally I have an interesting theory about the make shift jet holder. While re-purposing the solenoid body as a jet holder seems like a good idea I think there may be a problem with this in practice. The solenoid body has quite a large internal volume compared with a jet holder and this void must be filled with fuel before the primary low speed circuit can begin to supply fuel to the engine. Further to this, any air or vapour trapped in this area will affect the fuel delivery to the engine. I believe there is also the potential for fuel to leak back down from this little reservoir again affect
  5. The next thing I noticed was the absence of gaskets on the spacer at the base plate. When I disassembled this I found evidence of vacuum leaks in this area. I will tidy this up and reassemble it with a couple of gaskets installed. If we manage to get the carb working properly you will need to replace this with a metal spacer.
  6. Had a look at the weber on the weekend and i have discovered a few things and have a couple of ideas to share. Firstly the accelerator pump boost diaphragm is set up in a rather unusual manner. On my ADM this diaphragm is supplied with a vacuum signal internally (shared with the power valve) but on your carb the internal port is blanked off and it seems to be supplied from an external vacuum source. Either someone has set it up this way on purpose, although I am not exactly sure why you would do that, or it simply has some incorrect parts fitted. Either way I am sure you can make it work
  7. The throttle cable bracket took some figuring out but I got it all working with the factory cable.
  8. I managed to rework the throttle cable hardware from the original carb so it would work with the Weber. It was a little fiddly but ended up working very well.
  9. The first task was to replace the factory carb. I pulled the plugs and it was obviously running super lean and on top of this i am sure that the vacuum secondaries weren't working. I couldn't find a rebuild kit for it so replacement seemed like the best option. I went for a 32/36 Weber because I have had good results with Weber's in the past and I find they are easy to configure and tune for different applications.
  10. Well I haven't been very good at keeping you all up to date with what's going on in my shed lately so I thought I should try a little harder and share this with you. A few weeks ago I spotted this 1982 Sigma SE on the side of the road in Ohope and decided that it had to be mine. It ran like crap, but it is very tidy and most importantly is rust free. I have been busy working on getting it running properly. The car was on LPG for many years and the factory carb was pretty much useless. I have fixed this problem by installing a 32/36 Weber and she runs sweet now. Photos and details t
  11. Oh dear, it's a sad day when the factory single barrel carb is genuinely the best option available. If you really do run out of ideas for the Weber flick me a message, maybe you can send it my way and I can pull it apart and have a look for ya. These carbs really shouldn't be that problematic but maybe there is something wrong with the way yours is put together. It is even possible that somebody messed around with it and got something wrong before you got your hands on it.
  12. Good trick using the old solenoid housing as a jet holder. It's great to see it running a whole lot better!
  13. Here you go. As shown on the pictures this is how my one works. The low speed jet and holder on the primary side is an aftermarket item that is designed to be used in place of either the two stage jet (on late model versions like mine) or the integrated solenoid/idle jet (on early versions like yours). It is physically much larger than the jet fitted to the secondary side and I have included a picture that shows the size for reference. On my carb the fuel supplied to the progression circuit (low speed circuit) must pass through this jet before it gets to the progression holes in
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