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About gazguy

  • Birthday 02/09/1980

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    Bmx, cars, bikes, choppers,bobbers


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  1. I really wasnt feeling the tiny side stand and it was pretty pointless to be honest. So I opted for the centre stand. With it being lowered quite a bit it lifted the rear wheel so far off the ground it became unstable. I cut off 25mm from the bottom and made new pads from some 25mm shs. I purchased a chaly big bore exhaust from mbike, its for a standard chaly so the rear mount doesnt meet up due to the bigger engine. Other than that it looks pretty sweet. To stop the centre stand from hitting the swing arm and the chain i whipped up a small stainless bracket with a rubber stop and bolted it to where the passenger pegs would go. I tried the kickstarter from my C50 to see what the fitment would be and it was touching just by millimeters. I didnt want it scratching my new exhaust everytime I kicked it over so I managed to get an old c50 kickstarter from my mate Jeremy, pie cut it and bent it forward and tig welded it up with stainless rod. Plenty of clearance now!
  2. A few more jobs ticked off on the chaly over the past few days. A big hurdle was the wiring as I'm pretty shit at it but getting better, with the help of my dad we got there. I had to cut down the side stand considerably, the footpegs will be changed for Anderson style pegs I had to put an adjuster on the clutch lever as I've routed the cable through the frame and can't access the inline adjuster. New chain, rear sprocket and chain adjusters mounted too. @dvsdev.chaly on Instagram 3d printed me a fuel tap handle which is awesome
  3. Just before New Years I sent the frame, swingarm and wheels away to get blasted. I was charged a bit more than my usual guy but he wasnt open over the holidays. After a bunch of primering and sanding the frame and other parts were ready for paint. doing body work really sucks! I dont know how anyone can do it for a job. I can pretty much say I've spent most of my time off waiting for paint to dry. Once the paint had a chance to cure, which was all of 3 hours I started bolting parts on cos I'm really impatient haha. The engine is a manual Lifan 125 which was in my CT90. Following numerous trips to MBike more and more parts were acquired. Over the weekend I'll try and get the wiring and fuel lines sorted out.
  4. So 2021 was a bit of a shitter for me, recovered from collarbone surgery after being hit by NZ Post on my C50, broke up with my long term girlfriend and finally moving house twice! So to keep me from getting anymore depressed I like to my mind occupied so that means fucking around with small Japanese bikes. After selling my 2 Honda CBX250RS and 2.5 Kawasaki KV75 I had some spare coin so I thought I'd do what alot of others do on here and thats buy another project before finishing the others. The others being the white CT90 I was building. To be honest I wasnt really feeling the CT and have really been thinking of building a chaly since my accident. So I put the feelers out for a Chaly, there were few on trademe but they were a bit spendy for me and it was a shame to do to them what I wanted to. Anyways a mate hit me up with a frame he had the he was going to convert to electric, a deal was struck and I paid him what he paid for it. I'm sure this frame has passed through a few hands of people here in CHCH. Overall the frame was in OK condition. At some point someone has removed some of the paint causing heavy pitting but no terminal rust causing me to have to get the welder out. Within the space of a week I'd managed to piece together parts to try and get it in to a roller. Wheels, mudguards and swingarm were sourced from my mate Jeremy and the forks are a disc front end from the guys MBike. The overall quality of the forks wasn't too bad but the strength of the headlight ears was really average. I didnt like the position of them as they were a bit too high and too pointy and thin. so that got remedied by hammer forming some new ones and welding them in a lower position.
  5. More progress has been made over this lockdown. I'm moving soon so I thought getting this bike into a roller will make it easier move around. I threw the tyre on the rear and managed to pinch the tube. Anyways I had a go at making the exhaust, the header part at least. It's full stainless including the flange that clamps to the head. To take a break away from working on the bike I knocked a few stands for my BMX's so theyre not leaning against anything and everything in the garage. The yellow one weighs as much as the ct90, I'm not kidding!
  6. I got given these footrests from a mate, the sidestand mount had snapped off so i made up a new one and fizzed it on. When I went to paint the foot pegs the small tube that the clevis pin goes through had detached from both of them so I fizzed them up too. A lick of epoxy enamel later and they are good to go. When i was over in one of the sheds I grabbed a spare 19inch wheel and tyre I had on a CT185 and put it on temporarily while I get the wheels blasted and powdercoated. The fork shrouds were painted and fitted today as well. Having them both painted the same colour made the front end look longer than it was so i painted the headlight mounts hammered finish silver to match the dimple died panels and the lowers satin black. I'm really happy with the outcome
  7. Once all the welding and body work was completed I painted the frame, swingarm, mudguard and tank with epoxy gloss white enamel, no flash paint here! just a 1L tin from Bunnings I wasnt too happy with the look of the bars either so i cut the cross brace I made and replaced it with a removable item made from stainless round bar and a stainless shackle cut in half. The bars and bashguard were then powder coated at work. When i went to put the original CT forks back on the bike I noticed the seals were leaking due to the fork tubes being very pitted, so I tried on some CB forks ive had stashed away for a few years along with NOS fork shrouds, which I'll either paint white or black. I'll get the wheels sandblasted as theyre a little scabby and get them powder coated also
  8. After contemplating on what engine to put in I decided on a manual Lifan 125. The mounting holes are different and some minor cutting around the mounts was needed to make it fit snug. I left the top hole as is but redrilled the frame to accept the bottom mount and reinforced it with a heavy washer welded to it. I dropped the frame and other parts off to the blasters the frame came back a little worse for wear. various amounts off peppered metal which were cut out and replaced with new steel. Even though its an offroad hack I still like to have my bikes looking half decent. I got a replacement swingarm cheap that needed some surgery due to the previous owner running the rear wheel loose.
  9. Today I was planning on welding up some patches on my vauxhall but the weather turned to shit, so I thought I'd do some work on my ct90. 1st I cut some 41mm tube to make a double downtube, but because its above the downtube does that make it the top tube? Then i trimmed up some 18g steel, drilled some holes ready for dimple dies then put a small brake on the edges so it sits better on the tube. At 1st i was going weld the plate to the tubes but wondered how I'd remove dirt that would gather inside. So I flagged that idea and now it will be held on with button head cap screws. Ill change the position of the holes as theyre messing with my OCD. Its held on with clecos at the moment, I'll repeat the same for the other side. To give the bars some strength i added a crossbar, the same as BMX bars and cut of the indicator mounts. I used my tube notcher to cope the 22mm tube, its from Machinery House and is branded as their own, it took some dicking around to get it centred as it was cutting on the wank. Its the same as a harbor freight unit just a different colour and stickers A few nights back I notched the brace in the swingarm to get more movement, and I mounted one of the shocks to see what it would look like.
  10. A while back I cut and machined some 25x50 RHS to make a swing arm, just to see how it would work out. So I jigged it up and glued it together. I still need to notch the brace to allow for more movement as it currently hits the frame under full load. Ive got a pair of Aliexpress Ohlins knock off shocks to go on too
  11. Lately Ive been having a clearout of stuff that I really dont need, that includes unfinished projects. So to help things along I bought an old CT90 frame and front end. Plans for the bike are to strip it to bare minimum, Lifan it and ride the fuck out of it at the waimak tracks. There will be some small bits of fabricating but nothing too extreme and keep it quite simple and tasteful. The theme of the bike is The Pork Chop Express from the 80s movie Big Trouble in Little China. I have a thing for 80s movies, I named my poo brown C50 after Sexual Chocolate from Coming to America
  12. Once i got the 45 degree bends positioned to where i wanted i set about making the tailpipes. Originally I wanted rippled pipes and tried having a bash myself with no real results to show for it as the tube was too heavy a gauge, so ive settled for just straight pipes with a flared end which i made myself by making a tapered die on the lathe at work and used my hydraulic press to put the flare in. Id used a tow ball for my 1st goes which looked not too bad but it was hard to get the tow ball to sit perfect and it would give an uneven flare. Overall im quite happy with how the exhaust has turned out, I'll sort the mounts out and fully weld it up once I redo the hardtail, its pointless doing the same job twice.
  13. Once I got the bends I ordered from Uniweld I slowly started piecing them together. I pretty much redid the whole top pipe with a 90° which looks so much nicer. Then I added 2 straights with a 45° at each end. To get the tubes to line up nice for welding then metal finishing I made a clamp made from some bits of 25mm angle, some round bar and 2 hose clamps
  14. I found some old bends in my box and had a go at the other exhaust. I was gonna tig it together but I ran out of argon. I'm thinking of buying a 90 bend to replace the tube that runs across the timing cover so there's less welds and overall better finish
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