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rear setup needs alot of work before im doing that again ^ needs a bit more rear up travel and some hydro bumps. then dial out some anti squat, so doesn't send the ass up in the air so much. didnt really build it for jumps, but its pretty fun

Yea but i'm from Auckland.

3 weeks or so ago my workmate purchased this Skyline from a bloke we both know. It had been sitting on the lawn unloved for over a year, parked due to power steering not working and the mindset of it will take too much to get legal. Its a 1990 R31 GXE rocking a slush box and a RB30E. Done 208000kms (although the odo has just stopped) is relatively tidy with a couple bumps here and there as you expect. Interior is super clean, nearly everything works too. So my workmate rocks up with fresh fuel and battery, gets her running, unseized the brakes and drives it home. He already has a gnarly RB30DET Cefiro and only bought the R31 for the bottom end as a back up. He drove it for a few days and decided it was too good to wreck. Chucked it through a VTNZ WOF and got a short list. The P/S pump not working Corrosion on P/S pipe on the rack (had a hole) Rear brake pipe corrosion Horn to work All easy shit but with no room for the car in his driveway, a mental Cefiro that takes all his money and 2 other cars he decided to sell it on.... A deal was done and I bought her for $600 and I picked her up Tues evening. Got the horn working as soon as I got home and drove her to work the next morning. Weds after work we made up a new pipe for the rack (cheers @Seedy Al and the boys at city center for the pipe), bled the p/s system and cleaned up the rear brake lines. Thursday morning it had fresh wof and rego Fuck yeah legal! She had a horrible fart cannon shoved on the rear of the exhaust, it sounded terrible, droned like fuck and was generally shit. Dealt with that today at work, cut off shitty fart cannon and welded in a nice round barrel muffler and now cruising is so much nicer on the ears. Airfilter was absolutely buggered and because I hoard crap I had a sik poddy kicking around. With all the bits of pipe, adapters etc I managed to throw the pod filter on for max doooorts. The plan is to lower her on standard suspension from other Nissans so I get low but still have the lounge suite feel. Different wheels and just go with the flow from there.

experiments with scrub radius. so the front end is less than perfect with the 245s on the front and a really positive scrub radius its pretty twitchy. i couldn't get the wheel any closer to the strut, its basically touching now. i started thinking about the clevis type mounting of the strut that lots of modern stuff has. that design would allow me to move the wheel inboard and decrease the scrub radius right? so, choose one that has lots of parts available and is really well supported by aftermarket shit. S15. parts for days. so i bought some S15 front hub carriers and LCAs and had a bit of a measure. straight away its clear that the Nissan design moves the ball joint 30mm closer to the centre line of the tire. whilst all other things remain basically the same. win. on first inspection it looked like it could work. there were a couple of things that might throw a spanner in the works but i rang the guys at Techno Toy Tuning and they could supply me with a fabricated lower control arm that would bolt into the AE86 crossmember and have the right balljoint taper for the S15 hub. good. so with a bit of fucking around i amassed the following parts that in theory would all come together seamlessly to make it work, S15 hubs S15 Tein coilovers MX70 cresseda inner tie rods TTT LCA's made to adapt S15 to celica/AE86 (ring them, they make heaps of them apparently) complete with castor arms stock S15 tie rod ends bolt it all together then attach it to a celica and it all fits. bump steer measured at +2mm from ride height to full bump and + 2mm from ride height to full droop. a total travel of 140mm and a total toe change of 2mm positive. that will do me just fine. have i fixed the scrub radius? well its all theory at this point because i only trialed it today. i need to get the struts rebuilt and find the bracket that came with my front brakes that will bolt my calipers to the S15 hubs. but, the ball joint is 30mm closer to the centreline of the tire. at 2 degrees camber the strut top is much closer to the center of the car that it was before. when you draw it all that change in line angle makes a big difference. also there is now a 20mm gap between the strut and the wheel so i could move the wheel in by 20mm and decrease the scrub radius even further if i need to. im calling it a win. im going to get the struts rebuilt and find the brackets then bolt it all in and see what happens. here are some random pictures of things. 2017-09-30_04-59-07 by sheepers, on Flickr 2017-09-30_04-58-57 by sheepers, on Flickr 2017-09-30_04-58-39 by sheepers, on Flickr 2017-09-30_04-58-30 by sheepers, on Flickr 2017-09-30_04-58-21 by sheepers, on Flickr 2017-09-30_04-58-05 by sheepers, on Flickr

Yeah parachute hammock and small fly over it is my plan.

Here is the finished article by @Steelies Forgot to take a picture of the new engine panel at the front which was sweet as well. Kudos to manu to getting the fan to fit and have clearance for all the pipes etc!

I booked a night at Te Araroa for @Shakotom and @GuyWithAviators. If we end up changing the location I can just cancel it.

This may be relevant to your interests, Tamiya are releasing an RC Gyro-ish vehicle soon. https://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?/topic/83703-tamiya-honda-gyro/

got 13psi dialed in, one day might get the wheels off the ground. not enough run up /too slippery here. looks like it wants to nose wheelie, due to the front weight bias and rear setup. but soaks up the bumps good made a new heat shield for intake. half finished here measured it up, pretty much bang on standard ride height. even with the extra 3inchs up travel in the front.

Went for another wee spin last night, found a dark wall and adjusted the headlights, so now they point at the road, not the sky. Also adjusted the steering box, feels much better, just needs alignement me thinks, still a bit vague and twitchy. Rear end feels good, amazing how much of the road surface transfers though the car, from the rear end it would seem, might be the ride height I guess

I don't think I have any pictures of how the cab was before but the carpet was really gross. Took it all out and found a bit of surface rust so pentretroled it and painted over. Then today I carpeted it with some bunnings stuff. Pretty pleased how it came out. Next point of order is to take it for a drive with @Steelies and decide what's next to do. (Hopefully he has time!) Hopefully can take it away at labour weekend for a test run.

not a lot has happened with this thing. been procrastinating on getting new seat. replaced oil, filter and brake shoes. braking power has improved from nothing, to pretty much still nothing but hey. its a hoot to ride for some reason i have lost all action on the right indicators. wiring is all correct as per wiring diagrams. lefts still operate fine and both flash. im a little stuck on where to keep searching. if anyone could help with some fault finding tips thatd be much appreciated.

I made a little PCB!! This one is the result of my second attempt at ironing the transfer to the copper. it was not perfect but good enough for me- unfortunately my sharpie has a thick tip so was hard to touch up any missed bits. This will hold my 6 little relays.

How big is the flywheel, I have a CMB .21 that feels like that just because the flywheel is hard to get a grip on

I'll prob just wing it tbh, take a tent and if they have bunks available then 10/10 but if not then 8/10 tent will be sweet.

after selling GP125 it was time to move on to the next project. so i picked this thing up yesterday! 1983 Yamaha SR250, fully road legal and ready to go. at an extremely sharp price it was hard to say no. the dude i bought it off had gone overseas and was chillin in storage, hasnt been used for 4 months so took a wee bit to start it and warm up. gave it a good run today and blew off the cobwebs, such a great ride being able to keep up with open road traffic. sits at 100km/h no troubles if the wind has nothing to say about it. Experiencing finer luxuries like electric start, 12v charging system and a neutral light are a delightful bonus. ' will be a slow build but i plan to tidy it up and turn it into a street tracker/brat style bike. theres a few minor things to get sorted, few gaffa tape side cover repairs and some questionable braking ability at the top of the list. already ordered tracker bars, small speedo and a megaphone muffler. will probs buy tiny battery and gut out the midsection for max lushness. also bought a flat seat with great optimism, but after looking at the frame it is gonna be a real mission to get it to fit nicely without taking to it with a grinder. ideally id like to put a rear hoop in and get it super tidy so we'll see how we go. pix for inspiration

Could be the switch bro. Swap switch wires, if right indicators go (when you indicate left) then its the switch. Something to try anyway.

Almost on the cusp of being in the oldschool section.

I only saw this thread 2 nights ago, but I'm pretty keen. My calendar looks clear, so that's a good start. Now to suss a bike of some sort.

Touched up all the spots I missed when painting the frame today - turns out the paint shop mixed me matte black instead of gloss. Ended up spraying the whole thing so it matched. Not ideal, but I'm not too bothered. Also started tidying up the wheels and spokes which is definitely the most tedious thing I've ever had to do on this bike. If Auckland gives me some sun tomorrow I plan to paint the engine hangers and throw the engine into the frame. Fingers crossed.

I'm quite interested in this. In my mind, with a fixed throttle position and injection quantity, any rpm increase from injection timing change would imply more power is being produced as a result of better A/F mixing. The O2 sensor should also read richer as well. I'd be keen to see how the injection timing should change under load, but that could be pretty difficult to tune with out a steady state dyno

What's the bore size? I have some bore gauges but prob not small enough?

Build the 850 into a screamer Single carb and oversize the exhaust to 1 1/4" People say don't do it because the bigger engines are common enough, but before they came out the 850 did have some speed tuning development (because it desperately needs it)

What software did you use? I used to use eagle before it was sold to autodesk. Haven't tried it lately, dunno what the free license is like now

Might be worth posting your question on rcgroups.com or rcuniverse.com, there must be tens of thousands of those engines out there and someone will have struck this issue.

Just Man camp it. No tent just a bedroll on the ground. Get a little fire going

Haha...I kind of skipped all the safety features, so to ease my conscience I'm running 6mm lines and heavily choked exhaust side flow controllers to slow it right down. The cylinders do have air cushions so I can speed them up a bit more...I'll play around and find the sweet spot. Locking cylinders are a good idea, I have some that would work...I'll have to think about that one and test if I really need them? I have a spring open/air to close cylinder here...hmmmm that could be a nice fail safe solution????? I've got a 1/2" dump valve (solenoid 230v ac) that I'm going to hookup to the compressor tank on a timer. The compressor itself will also go on a timer too. This way I can automate the entire system i.e. - Compressor purges water from tank once a day, with timer set at say 10:00am for a 5 second burst. - Then the compressor timer allows recharging between say 10:01am to 7:00pm. Then it will turn itself off overnight so it won't wake me up during the night. As long as my system holds air, it will be sweet as to run like this. The tank has plenty of reserve to open/close the gates many times even when the compressor is turned off.

I forgot the part number right this minute, but FTDI makes an LCD controller chip that takes lots of the processing away... Just google FTDI LCD and should get it

Yep, I do have a set of extractors and a complete cooper exhaust system but I was worried about it being too big for the tiny little ports that the 850 has. Tempted to just use it and see what happens, I doubt it would be too much of a problem. Whilst I want to cam the 850, I've seen mixed reactions to this on the net, some say to get the engine line bored for 3 cam bearings, others are okay with running performance cams on the standard cast iron journals that the 850 has. I wasn't planning on dumping a ton of money into the 850 as it would be more financially economical to start with something a little bigger (1100, 1275...), but for the time being, I'll be sticking to the 850 as my college budget holds me back from the big bore engines

more progress on the old girl! She now makes funny noises.. don't mind the shakey camera!

So this lil bronze bottler won "Best Bike" at Distinguished Gentleman's Ride in Tauranga out of 140 or so bikes that attended - whoop whoop! Not too shabby considering it was one of the smallest and cheapest there haha. Check out the link below to more pics from the day:

So no welding and grinding? just paint and stick it together, like a 1:1 airfix model. British racing green with a white roof?

Hey, if it devalues the street enough i might be able to get into the housing market

Me! unsure on accom @MopedNZ had booked something but location changed? I think?

14th or 15th of October? That date could work well

so, were was I? ah yes friday. I phoned around a few places and found Autostop are the only people that carry Bosch car parts these days, asked about a GT40T (for transformer) coil, no worried the helpful young man said, I 'll ring ya back once the van drops it off, sorted. at about noon the guy rings me back, the coils here in the local shop, but for some reason I double checked, it is the small square one right? no its the round cylinder one, doh! no worries he assures me, I'll get it on the next van, I get another call at about 3, square coil is here, sweet! so I bunk off work early as I have the wifes car for the day to go and pick it up, get home on the double time just as Darrell does and we install the new one and she fires straight up!Once I got the old coil out it was obvious it had see better days, but in my defence most of that great crack was hidden from view under the mounts, and I was more worried about the clutch and piston rings still working etc..all this pissing about with the coil had at least given me time to sort a few other small but important things.these are my jets.as I said in the earlier winge post everything has been checked and double checked, which does at least give me more confidence in the old girl.gave the last few parts of the sunroof mech a lick of paint and duct taped the old cover on for now.water tight bugwhich bring us back to friday night and a for the first time a running car. First job, wash all the dust and cat paw prints off it.jeah.stood back enjoyed a beverage until it was nearly dark.once the kids were in bed and I'd realized the only things stopping a wof was a front number plate, wipers and them brakes, or lack there of. I then remembered I hadn't yet had another go at adjusting the rear drums and noticed when I pulled the handbrake on, I had a good pedel, hmmmm.Sure enough they were miles out, whats next? wipers and a plate? might as well keep going!I have some how amassed quite a collection of wiper arms and blades over the years and so had a nice working matching pair, something else new of this car, polished up the old black plate, so many battle scars, but I love it.By now its 11.30, fuck it, I'm going for a drive!now it get this thing legal. I have however driven it on private roads and those twin carbys are transformed this car into a bit of a beast.that little 1600 revs feels like it wants to rev to the moon! still needs a bit of work on the timing and jetting, but dear god it pulled 50mph in second gear today! a little bit scary with drum brakes! so friggin loud though, no headlining at all, my brother said after I took him for a wee blast, it like sitting in the engine bay! it kind of hard to drive normal as it so much fun to wind out.

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I've done absolutely nothing more on this bike, BUT the XL is now road legal so that's progress I guess.

applied maths and string theory zing they see me chooching

Rough as guts mate

everyday turn more steel into dust unsure exactly where I want the exhaust to end so cut it a little long and will see how it looks when its on its wheels. put the turbo kit back in temporarily to check fitment and of course needed to slit most of the joins to take the pipe strain out so everything will play nicely. will put the guard back on and make the hole in that while its all there

Bit of a dredge.. Fuck photobucket too, gonna have to rehost all of these pics soon. Been doing stuff that wasn't really worth taking pictures of, like swapping the LSD back in after having it rebuilt with a solid pinion spacer at Steelie Gears. Bloke reckoned it was the best 86 lsd and diff he'd seen in years, so that was nice. I've also been working to clear out the garage it's in, and my shitty car port at home in preparation of moving it.

Found some atf and o rings were a size in my kit so it lives again

Liking the sound of this Bach. Sorted my ride for the ride too. Now to get it up to scratch!

So dishwasher packed a sad. Dreading expense I googled the fault code, which indicated a faulty heating plate, which would probably be uneconomic to fix unless I faffed around finding second hand parts. I went through the diagnostics, and sure enough plate not heating (you can trigger it on/off via sequence of operating buttons). Testing for resistance the element tested out ok, so possibly worth fixing. It's an F&P dish drawer (early one, been in the house since we moved in) and I was really surprised how user-friendly it was to pull apart. A couple of pins and everything dropped out/unplugged for inspection. Pulling the main board and removing cover plate revealed obvious burn marks indicating a fault at a 24V/230V relay... And cleaning it with Contact Cleaner revealed the disconnect... As the pin had burnt off I looked at sourcing a replacement relay. Of course it was an obsolete item, but Mr Ebay provided one for $10 US delivered. Bit of a time delay to get it but not a major as other drawer operates ok while the guts are pulled out of the faulty one... I got to use my Aliexpress octopus thing, bit of solder action and wahayy, I am an appliance god. Houswives everewhere will offer me sexual favours in awe of my skills... [Disclaimer] apparently somebody wanted a shiny new one instead of faffing about for a couple of months. Sexual reward withheld despite silly bloke feeling rampant/chuffed with himself...

This wee project started with my son having a hoon on a mates PS4 racing game and loving it, but he was pretty shit at using the controller. Got the seat for $1 on trademe. $1 reserve win. The Drink Drive 2000. patent pending.

Forgot to take pics of the rhs sill going in Lot of work in the finishing bits,getting all lights going setting headlamps on beam setter Getting interior trim in Getting the ride height rite and longchamps on for good Had the boys @JBlades and @OldNathan pushing me along to get her woffed and reged In time to cruise up together to toyota festival Still haven't finished the lower front piece of lhs rear quarter Was a pleasant surprise to get re go $28 for 6 months Did finally finish 1 week before toyota fest so had time to do some ks to iron out any teething problems

So just after getting home from the day above, 2 of the VR sensors in the CAS decided to spit their guts out. Was going to chuck some spares in and attempt some more heat shielding. but all the spares looked pretty pre cooked as well. location of the cas kinda sucks and most of them leak oil. Time to try something else and get rid of the cas altogether. Rangi'd on a stock vr sensor to read the teeth on one of the cam wheels. which is 36 tooth. then welded a single tooth to the cam wheel and used a rx7 abs wheel sensor (they are vr sensors ) to read it. Twisted some wires together and told the ecu to look for 36-1, rather than stock 24-1. boom started first go, timing was way more stable than the stock setup. pinned to the mark rather than the stock setup, which would jump around a little bit. Turns out a nice compact VR sensor isn't really a thing. so grabbed a couple of barrel style Hall sensors. was just enough room to mount a tooth on the back of the cam wheel and make a sensor happen through the backing plate, on the intake side 36 tooth trigger directly reads the cam wheel. mounting this one was pretty easy have temporary wired it up, works good so far. / do a skid

wastegate pipe = success

Went out to buy some resonators, realised how overpriced for how simple they are, so decided to make my own. Rolled up some perforated sheet, wrapped in stainless steel wool and fibreglass strand. Will probably make another couple to put in behind the diff, which hopefully will make it reasonably quiet. It's a real shame no-one is going to see underneath here once it's done.