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About Shakotom

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  • Birthday 10/01/1994

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  1. Boat looks in scale for jimny. Great combo. ‘The TrashTorquer’
  2. Adjustment process Ive followed is here Put slack in the cable.... I recommend you "set" the threaded adjuster at the handlebar perch at about 1/2 way in....That way you have some adjustment left in either direction.Cable bottom adjuster (at case cover): thread it ALL the way in so you have maximum slack inside......With case cover off engine, VERIFY the #10 ball bearing is in place (grease it in)....Loosen adjuster locknut on case and screw the slotted bolt FULLY CLOCKWISE until it stops (This is the maximum clearance point, "Arm" should be fully " down" as pulled by the spring).....Rep
  3. Attached handlebars, spent an hour making a mount for the headlight and I’m pretty sure it’s still crooked. Attached small trademe special speedo assembly which has integrated dash lights -much better that the HUGE factory assembly which looked odd with the headlight. Welded the end of the broken tacho cable shut to plug the tacho drive hole in the motor. Removed carbs, gave them a clean out. - replaced the broken throttle cables with the new ones that came with my parts from USA, quick check to make sure points were doing there thing and making spark (I need to find a source for the rubb
  4. I sent the original brake hose/pressure switch down to Apex automotive in Hamilton as per Callum’s recommendation to get a new hose made that goes directly from the master to the brake calliper. -new master I ordered has a switch integrated in it. A couple of days later, my box returned with a fresh braided brake hose made to my specs. Rushed home from work, assembled the brakes and found that it turns out that at some point, the front brake calliper has been barryed and a imperial grease nipple fitted instead of a proper bleed nipple. And of course, now the brakes work the nipple doesn’t seal
  5. Prior to Te Urewera ride, Adv50 got stripped down for a tidy up after the frame started to get REALLY bad surface rust and and some other bits needed attention. Got the frame and that back from my friendly painter and started reassembly. Got another set of second had forks to replace the ones on it that were bent and a few other new bits. @Kass came through and upholstered / refoamed my seat base for me. Diamond stitching and it fits the tank very well! Completed Te Urewera ride again no worries. didnt even have to refuel each day. Trouble free motoring.
  6. I had been browsing Instagram and found a picture of a Dax built by Cheetah Custom cycles in Japan that got me fizzing. Being invited to dirtmasters was the kick in the pants I needed, initially assembled with Suzuki A50 forks and the CT90 rear end. then Andrew ( @GuyWithAviators ) swapped me most of a Lifan wave for a box of Purple Goannas, and with some engineering magic by @Geophy and @sentra I was able to fit the swing arm, and combine the A50 and wave forks together and get them all mounted to the bike. @MopedNZ got the rear brake bled and custom painted the wheels. This combi
  7. Then Andrew ( @GuyWithAviators ) built a sweet chaly, and we had a conversion about building a cute matching couples pair of bikes and ended up with this potatoshop Sorted a pit bike rear end, and the rest of the bits to match, all the way down to the same tyres. and as per, for some reason or another that stagnated not long after.
  8. Ages ago, I acquired a Dax frame. I started assembling it as a adventure bike prior to building the Suzuki Adv50. It ended up being put together with CT90 bits that I had kicking around, but got shelved due to issues with the fork steerer length and fuel tank capacity being minimal.
  9. Update I’ve sold my OG purple Fa50, the ST90, and China z50a.
  10. The brakes were well seized on to the point it was difficult to push around. Pulled the calliper off and couldn’t even get the pads out due to the amount of corrosion on/around them. I ended up having to hydraulic the lot out with a grease gun resulting in this mess. I spent some time with the parts cleaner/scotchbrite and a hone at work and it came up very good. -Bore is mint, Seal groove came up well, and exterior has some slight corrosion, but no pitting and surfaces are all smooth. Jammed it together with a new seal, piston and pads. Have taken some measurements, and
  11. Currently plan is get it running, take it in to see what it needs for a WOF. However, the fork top triple clamp has previously been welded up but has cracked again. If anyone has any leads on one to suit a CB360 it would be greatly appreciated. Tdlr : Shakotom buys another project bike, leaves it sitting and does nothing to it then rushes to get it ready in a short time frame
  12. After I got back from America, I listed the FZR250 and sold it, got side tracked with the rest of the year / moving out / life /other shitty bikes and left the CB360 sitting sad in the corner. That brings us to the present, I ordered a few basic bits from 4into1 to try get this thing going / back on the road for summer 2021. And made a start on getting it going.
  13. I called it having rego on hold, and needing saving a good enough reason to justify purchasing when compared to most of the other early Honda CBs that I had been looking at. As a bonus, it was incomplete enough that I could change a few things on it as I wished and not feel bad about wrecking a tidy bike, plus the poor modifications moved the bike down into my budget. With that a deal was struck, I strapped it to my trailer and rushed back across town to hide it away in the garage before going to the airport a couple of hours later to jump on a plane.
  14. Fast forward two days to the morning of the Sunday that you’re flying to America, and you find yourself driving across to the other side of town with a trailer attached to your car to look at a ‘unfinished cafe racer’ It had been sitting since 2013, Didn’t run, had had the usual remove all the lights and slap some clip ons on, then loose interest cafe racer attempt done to It, and was missing a bunch of parts but, it had rego on hold.
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