Jump to content

Flauski

Members
  • Posts

    955
  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling

Converted

  • Local Area
    Manawatu

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

Flauski's Achievements

Post Fiend

Post Fiend (4/5)

1.6k

Reputation

  1. The old MVR (Motor Vehicle Register) is absolutely riddled with errors from clueless people doing data entry with no knowledge of cars in the 60s-90s. I looked into a snapshot of Datsun 1600 (510) records for a particular year and found no fewer than about 20% errors in chassis numbers, name of the vehicle and engine numbers. Like Bart, I have had 3 vehicles with wrong details. The records are incredibly poor and I have even seen a bunch of 70-90s cars registered with 'sports car' in the name.....which is never the name of any model of car. I have been down this path before with an incorrectly registered Suzuki GT250. It was re-registered and when that was done, it was registered as a 1991 instead of a 1981. I tried to change it due to it being close to eligible for the 40 year rego cost difference (close to 1k rego vs 60 per year.) Basically I had to prove and apply (using the alternative documents path that Goat talks about.) I got a letter from Suzuki saying they never made that bike in 1991 and the frame number was from 1981. So through the 'alternative documents' process I paid $200+ to only 'apply' to Land Transport. This does not mean it is a given and there was no guarantee that they would agree. In the end they did but remember it was their data entry fuck up in the first place...... There are a ton of people working for Land Transport that have no knowledge of classic cars and no care either. You really do have to hope you get someone decent sometimes. If I was you, I would get an aficionado Pantera foamer (from a club in the USA most likely) explaining the chassis number as you have above, the car's chassis number is correct, original and unmodified which demonstrates the registration record is wrong. A photo of it back in the day would work wonders too, or trying to find a previous owner as mentioned. Good luck, totally worth it, looks awesome!
  2. Just the L26 engine. If I didn't already have 3 project cars I would consider the whole shebang....
  3. If @sheepers doesn't want the engine @HumberSS , I'd be into it.
  4. Yeah buyee is easier, usually a chassis number works well in searches because they crossover in English and Japanese.
  5. SO much want! It is perfect, perfect colour perfect period correct.
  6. Isn't the white/blue ignition? Are you saying tap off that for the relay power as well? Yellow wire gives the 12V only while engine is running right? white/blue is ignition and will power relay but also provide the source to auto choke when ignition is on? I will check the voltage at the yellow wire.
  7. So the 'electric choke relay' per the above image doesn't appear to function. Am I correct in that on a standard relay white/blue is 30 and blue is 87? Why would the relay itself buzz like crazy?
  8. I can only imagine how hard finding the coupe specific bits will be so its great to be mostly complete. Yahoo search tailored for such a look; Nissan 230 - https://auctions.yahoo.co.jp/search/search?p=230&auccat=26322&va=230&istatus=2&exflg=1&b=1&n=50&mode=1&brand_id=115840 230 Cedric - https://auctions.yahoo.co.jp/search/search?p=230+セドリック&auccat=26322&va=230+セドリック&is_postage_mode=1&dest_pref_code=13&exflg=1&b=301&n=50&mode=1 230 Gloria - https://auctions.yahoo.co.jp/search/search?va=230+グロリア&is_postage_mode=1&dest_pref_code=13&exflg=1&b=1&n=50&mode=1&auccat=26322&tab_ex=commerce&ei=utf-8&aq=-1&oq=&sc_i=&exflg=1&p=230+グロリア&x=0&y=0 Great start, look forward to following this. Also kicked the tyres on Marketplace.
  9. Oooof, always wanted one of them. You've got all the cool toys.
  10. Yes, the screenshot above of a factory manual is indeed the factory manual I drew colours on to highlight. Yes, the auto choke relay is not even shown but can confirm it directly feeds off the yellow wire going into regulator. The voltage raises to an acceptable level (about 14.5v) when car is started so alt must be working. Still can't work out why dash light it on, every thing I have read suggests if light is on, alt is not working and won't be charging.
  11. Did that today ^ Light stays on but no solid click of relays engaging when connecting battery with key off. Some things are not getting powered, I know the auto choke relay is one for sure. Had to google the factory part number to work out what it was and as you can see, it does not exist on the wiring diagram?!
  12. Not sure? I suppose I could try another alternator but it came off a running car. Won't solve the problem with draw when car off anyway.
  13. Have now tried swapping to same as you @kicker, connecting 5 - WB to 3 - WR and diode facing the same way - it has made no difference. Still charging, charge lamp stays on, loud click from relays heard when car is off and battery connected. The alternator is a Mitsubishi AQ2250? 50 or 60A IC. Can see from the pic I just took that it is wired correctly to S and L.
  14. Yep that's what I've done, per the first pic of two plugs inc a diode. The issue is around the extra relays etc in the same circuit. For late model Z it is a seat belt warning / fuel pump, for me it appears to be ignition accessories and auto choke. I know changing the wires linked by diode may solve the lamp issue but potentially not the rest (triggering relays when car off causing draw on battery.)
  15. Have a 1977 Nissan Laurel KHC230 and the wiring has me a bit stumped. I know there are some OS experts in this field. I don't want my car to catch on fire / melt wires but I don't want to have to disconnect the battery every time it is off too! Must be some of the last cars to have external regulators. I have replaced my alternator with an IR one. I have tried following Nissan / Datsun instructions online which are a little conflicting but the wiring colours seem to match. It all seems to depend on whether other relays are in the same circuit. 1. Alternator S (signal) (Y) 2. 12v from fusable link (W) 3. 12v acc? (WR) 4. Ground (not needed) (B) 5. Alternator L (lamp) (WB) 6. +12v but shares same colour wire to a lot of other relays etc? (WL) This is what I used; After following those above instructions I can confirm - Alternator appears to be working / charging, however there are some issues - 1. warning lamp for charging stays on 2. There is draw on the battery when the car is off, relay(s) can be heard click on when positive connected. It appears that the ignition accessory relay / intermittent wiper box are powered up. Will I fix it by following these instructions instead? This shows 5 white with black stripe + 3 white with red stripe connected instead of 5 + 6 connected. Out of shot of the wiring diagram for my car it would appear that the white/red (WR) ends at the actual charge lamp on the dash? Wiring diagram for my car; Any ideas? Is changing the wiring as indicated going to stop power being fed to other devices when car is off? Or am I going to have to do something more drastic with regard to sourcing power from somewhere else?
×
×
  • Create New...