Flauski

Yeah, goneburgers sorry.

Yep I was trying to find some but couldn't remember where I put them. I will let you know when I find em.

The main difference is S chassis are rear bowl sump, skyline C chassis to R30 front bowl sump. With the C110 and a front bowl sump its literally slot some holes for motor mounts.

@radBMX have seen those Sunny badges floating around, presume they are aftermarket ones? How is the quality in real life? I also have some originals that need replacing as they are disintergrating.

Good to see you are steaming ahead with that car. Certainly rare in NZ and most have rusted into oblivion. Murray Fullerton in Auckland used to have quite a few parts and his son had a real tidy sedan. He often sells BMW and old Nissan parts on Trademe. Your car appears to have changed quite a few hands over the years with minimal done in between. I thought c210 crossmembers were essentially the same as C110, in which case to fit an RB all you need is the front bowl sump and dipsstick from a Z31 Fairlady 200ZR (factory red top RB20DET). I used to have one of those sumps. Love it.

I don't know why but I saw this Green Phosphor CRT (Dick Smith Electronics brand) on Trademe and I just had to have it. Thew up some real nostalgia for me. Then I had an idea. I have seen people generate their own TV stations / retro CRT playlists. There is something about the Fallout PC games asthetic - the dystopian future with retro tech (terminals and green phosphor screens) that just made want to do it. I also love the nuclear fallout theme and whimsical nature of the VAULTEC cartoon learning adverts they use featuring the pipboy character. Anway, lots of research, some Youtube downloads, a few tools + a Rasberry Pi, which I hooked up to the video input. No sound (single AV input and no speaker) but that could be the next step: It is a lot chrisper IRL.

Can't wait to see this in the Manawatu when done. How good.

Hey @yoeddynz question, when you swapped from a Mitsi distributor to a Hitachi, did you have to change any of the wiring? I have tried the same swap and it won't start on a Hitachi. Any idea what part numbers the distributors you used are? Looks like the one you used epoxy on might be a 22100-72B00? I have only established my original one is a Mitsi clone (no part numbers) and the Hitachi is 22100-AN200 and it has a massively different trigger wheel. Cheers

The old MVR (Motor Vehicle Register) is absolutely riddled with errors from clueless people doing data entry with no knowledge of cars in the 60s-90s. I looked into a snapshot of Datsun 1600 (510) records for a particular year and found no fewer than about 20% errors in chassis numbers, name of the vehicle and engine numbers. Like Bart, I have had 3 vehicles with wrong details. The records are incredibly poor and I have even seen a bunch of 70-90s cars registered with 'sports car' in the name.....which is never the name of any model of car. I have been down this path before with an incorrectly registered Suzuki GT250. It was re-registered and when that was done, it was registered as a 1991 instead of a 1981. I tried to change it due to it being close to eligible for the 40 year rego cost difference (close to 1k rego vs 60 per year.) Basically I had to prove and apply (using the alternative documents path that Goat talks about.) I got a letter from Suzuki saying they never made that bike in 1991 and the frame number was from 1981. So through the 'alternative documents' process I paid $200+ to only 'apply' to Land Transport. This does not mean it is a given and there was no guarantee that they would agree. In the end they did but remember it was their data entry fuck up in the first place...... There are a ton of people working for Land Transport that have no knowledge of classic cars and no care either. You really do have to hope you get someone decent sometimes. If I was you, I would get an aficionado Pantera foamer (from a club in the USA most likely) explaining the chassis number as you have above, the car's chassis number is correct, original and unmodified which demonstrates the registration record is wrong. A photo of it back in the day would work wonders too, or trying to find a previous owner as mentioned. Good luck, totally worth it, looks awesome!

Just the L26 engine. If I didn't already have 3 project cars I would consider the whole shebang....

If @sheepers doesn't want the engine @HumberSS , I'd be into it.

Yeah buyee is easier, usually a chassis number works well in searches because they crossover in English and Japanese.

SO much want! It is perfect, perfect colour perfect period correct.

Isn't the white/blue ignition? Are you saying tap off that for the relay power as well? Yellow wire gives the 12V only while engine is running right? white/blue is ignition and will power relay but also provide the source to auto choke when ignition is on? I will check the voltage at the yellow wire.

So the 'electric choke relay' per the above image doesn't appear to function. Am I correct in that on a standard relay white/blue is 30 and blue is 87? Why would the relay itself buzz like crazy?